ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Most know I have been prepping for my V2 install.....for entirely too long but I want to cover all of my bases. Next one being oil pressure. What gauges do you guys have? Mechanical or electric? What sending unit do you have? Also, what size is the fitting for the OEM sending unit? 1/8th Im almost positive but I want to double check. Found this little gem if I decide to go mechanical http://www.conceptzperformance.com/C...FQ4EnQodwFEAbg

kasso28

iTrader: (12)

the factory oil pressure switch is 1/8 BSPT whereas most american gauges will use 1/8 NPT. Use something like this: http://www.stealthmodeperformance.co...blockfit.shtml. If you pick a Japanese gauge like Greddy or Defi, you'll need a 1/8 BSPT tee fitting.

Also as accurate as a mechanical gauge may be, remember the fluid has to come all the way into the cabin to the back of the gauge, which can get messy if it starts to leak.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

It seems most go with the filter sanwich but you can get a fitting for $10. Dont understand that http://compare.ebay.com/like/3308091...Types&var=sbar

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

According to this http://www.ralstoninst.com/news/the-...and-bspt-seals the NPT and BSPT will thread together but just not seal. You would need to use thread sealer. It would be nice if they sold a tee fitting and you could run both the OEM sender and the sender for the gauge but I could not find a fitting like that just a 1/8 bspt to Bspp.

Also for future readers, it is a very bad idea to mount the sender directing onto the fitting as it can vibrate and crack off, especially with a tee fitting. Best to get a line like this and secure the sender elsewhere http://www.ebay.com/itm/24-Stainless...c8e8a1&vxp=mtr

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

So after researching at length it appears the easiest way is to just use a filter sandwich and not have to worry about removing the OEM sender and having the light on 24/7. Also it is easier to route line from here up into the engine bay for a cleaner install.

Can anybody off the top of their heads think of a close grounding location that is near the 4th gen oil filter? Obviously needs to be less than 24" away

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Decided to first get the oil temperature gauge. Got the glowshift brand as it seems to have the technology of autometer but a bit cheaper.

Suppose I will do a write-up on it for future readers

vipervadim

iTrader: (10)

^^^been there done that.. waste of time + $$ + space.

conclusion: Oil Temp gauge on a SC'd maxima is totally useless. with MEVI, 2.87 pulley, EU fuel + timing tune, the oil temp never got higher than 220deg after 7 back to back hard presses from 40 - 120+mph. Oil temp would normally just stay at 170-180deg.
[on a N/A maxima, oil pres gauge is even more useless than a chained anchor]

Oil Pressure + Boost + WB AFR is the only gauges you need in a boosted max, Everything else is money wasted/attention diverted from what actually needs monitoring.


Best oil pressure gauge??

Autometer Ultra Lite 4327 oil pressure gauge
with Autometer 2246 sender unit.



YES, there is a reason to use the 2246 and NOT the cheap ****ty 2242 sender. (10+ yrs of building maximas)


the info is here, what you decide to do with it is up to you.

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Kinda like realizing the stock radiator is enough after wanting the aftermarket aluminum ones. Only thing left that I still "want" is the pathfinder cooling "mod."

vipervadim

iTrader: (10)

You DO want an aluminum Rad for boost tho, the stock rad blows up/away/off plastic endtanks way too often..

the faster the engine spins up(boost) same for the waterpump = much more pressure through the system ..


I have done the DEK coolant log swap on a 02-03 3.5L block, and it was a NO GO. I don't think the FWD VQs can use it, but the 07+ altima/09+ maxima FWD block has it.

Drilled two 1/2in holes (overlapping each other) into the blocked coolant passage in the block (the 4 screw holes were already pre-tapped M6x1.0, but are not tapped on 04+).
But, when I poured in coolant where the second T-stat goes into the block, the coolant goes straight thru the passages and right into the oil pan. Coolant mixing with oil = Not Cool. So I made a plate to block it off, and sealed it off with RTV and the 4 bolts, used a 95-99 coolant log.

:shrug: So much time + $ spent on vq projects that didn't work

that's the 'PF coolant mod' you're talking about right
http://www.injectedperformance.com/i...for350zg35.htm

Quickywd01

iTrader: (16)

Yup, that's the one. And I did some research just now and realized the DE-K came with this stock. http://forums.maxima.org/all-motor/6...oling-kit.html So this is a no-go on my FWD VQ30DE?

streetzlegend

iTrader: (8)

Just to give my .02 with cooling. If an engine is being built or head gasket is being replaced, the HR Headgasket and coolant passage machining will be the best for cooling(I dont think the pathfinder mod is really worth it IMO). I have a stock radiator, override switch to turn the fans on (usually have them on all the time when in traffic or driving slow, I keep temp at about 185ish.), then some water wetter and about 90% water 10% coolant. I havent had an issue with cooling. (20psi of boost).

I also have the heater core bypassed (inlet and outlet blocked off)

maxgtr2000

iTrader: (29)

The setup with 90% water is excellent for warmer climate/summertime. I got caught off guard one year and lost a radiator after the first freeze. Thank God nothing else got damaged, but something to consider switching back for those in cooler weather.