synthetic oil + high miles
#5
The only way to really know is to switch...should you start to leak you can:
A)put in a new seal
B)switch back to the old oil
My 91 Explorer developed leaks when I switched to semi-synthetic. Due to its age, I opted to switch back rather than fix the gasket.
The high mileage oil has extra additives to clean the engine and swell seals. Most on the board would tell you that it is snake oil. In my experience (remember the 91 Explorer) it slowed a leak I had on the car for over a year. I had two spots under the truck every night about the size of a half-dollar on regular oil. After switching to Valvoline high mileage, one drop disappeared the other went to the size of a dime.
A)put in a new seal
B)switch back to the old oil
My 91 Explorer developed leaks when I switched to semi-synthetic. Due to its age, I opted to switch back rather than fix the gasket.
The high mileage oil has extra additives to clean the engine and swell seals. Most on the board would tell you that it is snake oil. In my experience (remember the 91 Explorer) it slowed a leak I had on the car for over a year. I had two spots under the truck every night about the size of a half-dollar on regular oil. After switching to Valvoline high mileage, one drop disappeared the other went to the size of a dime.
#8
Originally Posted by Oxidizer2k
i heard once you go synthetic, you can never go back.... is that a fact?
#10
Originally Posted by rcy
Kind of like 'once you try...' oh never mind. Anyway, that's crap. If you want loads of oil information check out www.bobistheoilguy.com and browse the forums.
once you try?...... whats the next line?
#12
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Originally Posted by Oxidizer2k
i heard once you go synthetic, you can never go back.... is that a fact?
Concerning the seal issue; a good quality synthetic will actually preserve seals better than your standard-fare petroleum oil as the synthetic will allow your engine to run cooler. Furthermore, the brand I am most familiar with has a robust additive package that keeps seals plump and pliable so they don't leak. Installing a good synthetic in your engine won't cause a leak; but if it is leaking now due to faulty seals, then it will continue to leak. Forget the "synthetics will leak because they're thinner" line I've heard tossed about...that's BS too. A 30-weight synthetic falls within the same viscosity parameters as a 30-weight petroleum oil. In fact, one of the advantages of a synthetic is that they will maintain their viscosity (and not shear back to a lighter viscosity) under extreme conditions. You will know if your seals are bad if your car is leaking oil.
If you try a synthetic and decide to switch back to petroleum, there is no reason why you can't. The brand synthetic I use is fully compatible with petroleum and can even be mixed with petroleum, if necessary.
I have converted many high mileage engines to synthetic with very good results. The key is that if the car had been previously well maintained and is not leaking, then there shouldn't be an issue.
#13
Originally Posted by talkinghorse
As Spirilis says, it is (complete) BS.
Concerning the seal issue; a good quality synthetic will actually preserve seals better than your standard-fare petroleum oil as the synthetic will allow your engine to run cooler. Furthermore, the brand I am most familiar with has a robust additive package that keeps seals plump and pliable so they don't leak. Installing a good synthetic in your engine won't cause a leak; but if it is leaking now due to faulty seals, then it will continue to leak. Forget the "synthetics will leak because they're thinner" line I've heard tossed about...that's BS too. A 30-weight synthetic falls within the same viscosity parameters as a 30-weight petroleum oil. In fact, one of the advantages of a synthetic is that they will maintain their viscosity (and not shear back to a lighter viscosity) under extreme conditions. You will know if your seals are bad if your car is leaking oil.
If you try a synthetic and decide to switch back to petroleum, there is no reason why you can't. The brand synthetic I use is fully compatible with petroleum and can even be mixed with petroleum, if necessary.
I have converted many high mileage engines to synthetic with very good results. The key is that if the car had been previously well maintained and is not leaking, then there shouldn't be an issue.
Concerning the seal issue; a good quality synthetic will actually preserve seals better than your standard-fare petroleum oil as the synthetic will allow your engine to run cooler. Furthermore, the brand I am most familiar with has a robust additive package that keeps seals plump and pliable so they don't leak. Installing a good synthetic in your engine won't cause a leak; but if it is leaking now due to faulty seals, then it will continue to leak. Forget the "synthetics will leak because they're thinner" line I've heard tossed about...that's BS too. A 30-weight synthetic falls within the same viscosity parameters as a 30-weight petroleum oil. In fact, one of the advantages of a synthetic is that they will maintain their viscosity (and not shear back to a lighter viscosity) under extreme conditions. You will know if your seals are bad if your car is leaking oil.
If you try a synthetic and decide to switch back to petroleum, there is no reason why you can't. The brand synthetic I use is fully compatible with petroleum and can even be mixed with petroleum, if necessary.
I have converted many high mileage engines to synthetic with very good results. The key is that if the car had been previously well maintained and is not leaking, then there shouldn't be an issue.
#15
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Originally Posted by Oxidizer2k
I usually prefer Mobile1. What do you use?
#16
I was just considering the same question on my 110 k miles maxima. I think that over the course of the last 3k miles it has shown a small leak. Now I am not sure if maybe I neglected make sure that the level was all the way at high when I changed my oil last, but now it seems to be 1/5 th of the way down from H to C, or is it L... anyways I also smell a faint trace of engine oil smell in the morning on startup.
The waether has been very cold in the recent weeks so I havent been checking my fluid as frequently as I used to.
What should I look for if I am considering conversion to synthetic?
The waether has been very cold in the recent weeks so I havent been checking my fluid as frequently as I used to.
What should I look for if I am considering conversion to synthetic?
#17
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Originally Posted by adroga
I was just considering the same question on my 110 k miles maxima. I think that over the course of the last 3k miles it has shown a small leak. Now I am not sure if maybe I neglected make sure that the level was all the way at high when I changed my oil last, but now it seems to be 1/5 th of the way down from H to C, or is it L... anyways I also smell a faint trace of engine oil smell in the morning on startup.
The waether has been very cold in the recent weeks so I havent been checking my fluid as frequently as I used to.
What should I look for if I am considering conversion to synthetic?
The waether has been very cold in the recent weeks so I havent been checking my fluid as frequently as I used to.
What should I look for if I am considering conversion to synthetic?
#18
I want to switch as well. I have Walmart's high mileage full synthetic. It's crap oil, I want to go to Mobil 1 or something.
I have 145K and my car burns slight oil on startup and sometimes when I floor it. Should I switch? It is very very slight. I have checked the oil every so often and it is always full. I think it only burn oil when I get on it if I don't let the car sit and warm up first.
I have 145K and my car burns slight oil on startup and sometimes when I floor it. Should I switch? It is very very slight. I have checked the oil every so often and it is always full. I think it only burn oil when I get on it if I don't let the car sit and warm up first.
#19
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Originally Posted by 4DRSpeed
I want to switch as well. I have Walmart's high mileage full synthetic. It's crap oil, I want to go to Mobil 1 or something.
I have 145K and my car burns slight oil on startup and sometimes when I floor it. Should I switch? It is very very slight. I have checked the oil every so often and it is always full. I think it only burn oil when I get on it if I don't let the car sit and warm up first.
I have 145K and my car burns slight oil on startup and sometimes when I floor it. Should I switch? It is very very slight. I have checked the oil every so often and it is always full. I think it only burn oil when I get on it if I don't let the car sit and warm up first.
#20
I've had wonderful results with Mobil 1
93 Max, 230k (started mobil 1 at 130k)
97 Max, 130k (started at 90k)
2k Max, 130k (started from the begining)
93 Altima, 155k (started 135k)
95 Altima, 125k (started 109k)
None of them ever leaked. Idles better (more willing to rev too), possibly improved mpg. Always used genuine Nissan filters. oil changes every 3-5k.
Jae
93 Max, 230k (started mobil 1 at 130k)
97 Max, 130k (started at 90k)
2k Max, 130k (started from the begining)
93 Altima, 155k (started 135k)
95 Altima, 125k (started 109k)
None of them ever leaked. Idles better (more willing to rev too), possibly improved mpg. Always used genuine Nissan filters. oil changes every 3-5k.
Jae
#21
The myth concerning synth oils causing leaks is a little bit of truth twisted with BS. Synth oils usually contain high quality detergents that clean the engine internals, including the seals. High mileage engines, especially those not regularly maintained, usually have a buil up of varnish, sludge, etc. built up around and in any space in the engine (including around seals).
What is theorized is that although a seal may have eroded over time, the build up of sludge around it, prevents any oil form passing (leaking). Once synthetic is introduced and the sludge is "washed away", the seal may start weeping, thus a leak occurs... which was not caused by the synthetic oil.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert... just repeating what I've read in my many years of browsing oil boards and the like.
What is theorized is that although a seal may have eroded over time, the build up of sludge around it, prevents any oil form passing (leaking). Once synthetic is introduced and the sludge is "washed away", the seal may start weeping, thus a leak occurs... which was not caused by the synthetic oil.
Disclaimer: I'm not an expert... just repeating what I've read in my many years of browsing oil boards and the like.
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