Originally Posted by T_Behr904

Yeah I heard about that as well. I was brainstorming when I thought of the Gorilla glue 2 part epoxy. That stuff is no joke!

Originally Posted by BobPezz

Neither is JB Weld! I've heard stories about it being used on cracked engine blocks. I personally know someone that successfully used it to "glue" a broken housing on a Paxton Blower back together.

Originally Posted by T_Behr904

I did buy JB Weld to seal up the top plastic tank on my radiator. I ran a bead of it all the way across the top, and it's rock hard stuff. I still have enough left over to fix my Vias cup. However, I was thinking about that Gorilla epoxy since they dry time on it is so much shorter.

Originally Posted by BobPezz

I understand that. When you open up the VIAS actuator, you'll see there isn't much room in there for an alternate mounting method. It could be done with major modifications but it's probably not a simple/economical fix.

OK, I'll answer your questions and put your mind at ease re: JB Weld "fix"

1. JB Weld is just a Steel reinforced epoxy. If you've ever used epoxy you can use JB Weld.
2. Hopefully it is permanent, that's the point of the repair. But if something does go wrong it CAN be removed just like any other epoxy. Prior to cure; It can be wiped off for a 2nd try. After cure; Heat (JB Weld is good to 600F which is well below the melting point of Brass), Abrasives (grind it off with a Dremel), or enough Force to break the bond (chip it off). Granted, since JB Weld is a VERY strong epoxy it's a PITA.
3. Not true per the above. You'll have plenty of time to be sure the alignment is right, since JB Weld takes 24hrs. to fully cure (Recommended). The power rod stays in the IM during the "fix", and you don't have to JB Weld the spring in the cup. (I think the spring epoxied in the cup may decrease the bond surface area) All I did was compress the heck out of the spring (coil bound) in a vise 1st. And left it that way for the entire time it took to thoroughly clean the actuator/cup, do the repair, clean up the end of the power rod/actuator mounting surfaces, and wait 24hrs. for the JB Weld to cure. Shortened it up nicely, and you only need enough JB Weld on the bottom of the cup to just cover the actuator rod end (<1/16" approx. depth). After that point more epoxy isn't going to be much stronger (the surface area of the actuator rod is the limiting factor), be more prone to crack and could increase full cure time.
4. Believe it or not most epoxies are Organic Resins that catalyze to form polymerized bonds only when mixed/cured. Similar to blood clotting.

Originally Posted by Hoffm2ma

I just did the JB Weld fix to my '00, and let me say.....Wow! Mine was completely broken and since the fix my car runs great.

All you do is put JB weld on the bottom of the cup and in the cup, set the cup to the right orientation and then press the spring in the JB weld. Let it cure and enjoy!

Originally Posted by Hoffm2ma

I heard different things too, but I used JB Quick so I put the spring in right away and let the whole thing cure for about 6 hrs. There is a big difference, now can can actually feel the VIAS when it opens, it is awesome.

Originally Posted by BobPezz

I just stuck a board on the gas pedal and used the seat to keep it WFO.

Originally Posted by Hoffm2ma

No worries man. I know what you mean, I have stuff I want to do just haven't found the time.

Also man I recommend changing the screws, had to use a vice grip to get them off, to bolts (M6 x 1.00 20mm long)

Originally Posted by T_Behr904

That's a good idea. I'll use that method of holding down the gas pedal to break that last screw loose. All I have to do after that to get a straight shot at the screw is to remove my Berk intake from the throttle body.