Anyone wanna share tips on removing Manual transmission?
03-20-2005, 07:38 PM
#1
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Anyone wanna share tips on removing Manual transmission?
I am going to start ripping into my parts car pretty soon and was wondering if anyone could share any tips that mad it easy when they removed their tranny to do a clutch install. I will be doing this on jack stands and i will have acess to 2 3 toon floor jacks, and basic air tools. Anything that could be helpful would be appreciated.
The car is a 1996 I30 5speed. i wanna remove the tranny and anything else useful
The car is a 1996 I30 5speed. i wanna remove the tranny and anything else useful
03-20-2005, 08:56 PM
#2
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Remove drivers side tranny mount
Remove drivers side axel
Remove starter
Remove cross member with motor mouts
Support tranny with jack
Unbolt tranny, lower, and slide out drivers side wheel well.
Remove drivers side axel
Remove starter
Remove cross member with motor mouts
Support tranny with jack
Unbolt tranny, lower, and slide out drivers side wheel well.
03-20-2005, 09:16 PM
#3
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Get under the car, tie a chain around the tranny, attach it to your running maxima's frame. Get a very long chain and try to get your maxima to about 60mph, when the chain tightens, the tranny will be removed. Use a VERY heavy chain.
03-20-2005, 09:31 PM
#4
03-21-2005, 06:06 AM
#5
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Originally Posted by 04BlackMaxx
Get under the car, tie a chain around the tranny, attach it to your running maxima's frame. Get a very long chain and try to get your maxima to about 60mph, when the chain tightens, the tranny will be removed. Use a VERY heavy chain.
03-21-2005, 01:24 PM
#7
Label the bolts on the bell housing, or better yet use card bord and draw the outline so you know where the bolts go. take your time and dont rush. Get a friend to lend a hand if need be. Take a break if you get flustered or something. I did my own clutch 1st time alone. Its not a very difficult process, just time consuming. Oh, use a Haynes and FSM as guides.
03-21-2005, 02:42 PM
#8
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Originally Posted by JSutter
Label the bolts on the bell housing, or better yet use card bord and draw the outline so you know where the bolts go. take your time and dont rush. Get a friend to lend a hand if need be. Take a break if you get flustered or something. I did my own clutch 1st time alone. Its not a very difficult process, just time consuming. Oh, use a Haynes and FSM as guides.
Well Do you think its something anyone can do. time is not important. My main goal is removing the transmission. This is from a I30 5speed so i am planning on removing the tranny to keep and it will not be re installed on the car. I will be doing this on jack stands in my Yard. Any special tools i should know about before i get started? How difficult is it to remove the axle? i really want this tranny so i want to be careful and not damage it. Any other tips from anyone would be helpful
03-21-2005, 06:22 PM
#9
1/2" drive deep sockets 10-24mm, 36mm for the axle nut 1/2" breaker bar, ratchet and extensions, 3/8" drive ractches, sockets and extensions, screw drivers, pry bar, mallet, blocks of wood (2x4), jack stands, 2 or more jacks, umm........gosh other stuff. no really special tools unless you are removing the flywheel.
I dont think anyone can do it, but if you have the time and patients then by all means go for it. You have the time, so do you have the patients? You do all the work to your car correct? If you get stuck you have the whole ORG to fall back on. I'll come down and pull it and take it home.
Are you selling this tranny or installing it in the Max?
I dont think anyone can do it, but if you have the time and patients then by all means go for it. You have the time, so do you have the patients? You do all the work to your car correct? If you get stuck you have the whole ORG to fall back on. I'll come down and pull it and take it home.
Are you selling this tranny or installing it in the Max?
03-21-2005, 07:21 PM
#10
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Originally Posted by JSutter
1/2" drive deep sockets 10-24mm, 36mm for the axle nut 1/2" breaker bar, ratchet and extensions, 3/8" drive ractches, sockets and extensions, screw drivers, pry bar, mallet, blocks of wood (2x4), jack stands, 2 or more jacks, umm........gosh other stuff. no really special tools unless you are removing the flywheel.
I dont think anyone can do it, but if you have the time and patients then by all means go for it. You have the time, so do you have the patients? You do all the work to your car correct? If you get stuck you have the whole ORG to fall back on. I'll come down and pull it and take it home. Are you selling this tranny or installing it in the Max?
I dont think anyone can do it, but if you have the time and patients then by all means go for it. You have the time, so do you have the patients? You do all the work to your car correct? If you get stuck you have the whole ORG to fall back on. I'll come down and pull it and take it home.
Are you selling this tranny or installing it in the Max?
. This tranny is for my Max, not worth selling it no one would pay what its worth. I figure i have this car that i can use to practice on. so i can remove the tranny, once i know i can install it on my max and do the clutch myself.
03-21-2005, 08:14 PM
#11
You may need a 3' pipe for the axle nuts depending on if they have ever been removed and if they were put back on with an impact set too high. Also lots of extensions for the rear motor mount bolt.
03-21-2005, 08:58 PM
#13
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Originally Posted by Nealoc187
You may need a 3' pipe for the axle nuts depending on if they have ever been removed and if they were put back on with an impact set too high. Also lots of extensions for the rear motor mount bolt.
03-22-2005, 05:22 AM
#14
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Originally Posted by MrGone
unbolt
wiggle
pull
lower
Mike, you dont have to lower the cross member to remove the tranny.
wiggle
pull
lower
Mike, you dont have to lower the cross member to remove the tranny.
03-22-2005, 06:55 AM
#15
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can the engine be left dangling by the 2 side mounts? I will remove the crossmember with the 2 I30 mounts but i wanna keep them, deezo mentioned they are better than the maxima mounts. also i will use them as cores if i get ES inserts.
Also any tips that make it easy to reinstall aren't needed. The tranny isn't going back into this car. just need to get it out without any harm.
I am hoping to convince Jsutter give me a hand since he has experience.
Also any tips that make it easy to reinstall aren't needed. The tranny isn't going back into this car. just need to get it out without any harm.
I am hoping to convince Jsutter give me a hand since he has experience.
03-22-2005, 08:43 AM
#17
The whole job can be done in one full day. I have pulled my tranny 2-3 times on jack stands along side the street in front of my house. It took longer then 2 days because I ran into things. Usually it was just waiting to get the flywheel resurfaced, breaking tools, wrong axle seals and the then waiting because the parts store is closed. Getting the tranny out is easy and took a few hours without any big problems. I had a hard time getting the axle nut loose and the only way I was able to get it off was jacking up the end of the breaker bar with my floor jack. Once all the bellhousing bolts are out, you will need to do some prying to seperate the trans from the bellhousing. I used a tranny jack (scissor kind) to lower the tranny and pull it out through the driver's side wheel well. I removed both axles and left the crossmember up. Doing it this way was easiest for me. Ill put some pictures up on my cardomain so you can get an idea.
03-22-2005, 08:49 AM
#18
03-22-2005, 01:14 PM
#19
The crossmember doesn't have to be removed. I've done it twice with the crossmember still bolted up. (I removed it my first time however and it was a b!tch to put back on, unless you have help or a jack. With a small enough socket you can loosen those two lower bolts and just pull them out and leave them resting on the edge of the crossmember. They wont fall. You can also leave the passenger side axle on but you may have to remove the mount to help pry the tranny out, just be careful not to rip the cv boot.
03-22-2005, 04:47 PM
#21
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thanks for the tips guys.JeEvE where did you get the tranny jack?
what do you guys recommend FSM or hanyes manual. i have an FSM but doesn't really say how to remove the tranny
what do you guys recommend FSM or hanyes manual. i have an FSM but doesn't really say how to remove the tranny
03-22-2005, 06:14 PM
#22
I think I used the Haynes manual, it was more helpful. The jack I used is made by Central Hydraulics. I got mine on ebay, there always on there and they go for around $50.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46104
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=39178
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...category=46104
03-23-2005, 04:04 PM
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Originally Posted by MAXIN
I have the same jack. Might have to use a block of wood on the jack to center or angle the tranny properly.
03-23-2005, 07:34 PM
#26
You do not have to remove the axle but every time I pulled my tranny I took it out, it just makes it easier. The axle dont just come out too easy, there is a small locking ring so you just have to yank on the end of the axle until it pops out. Dont forget to drain the tranny fluid. When I was pulling the transmission for the 2nd time I didnt use the manual and I ended up forgetting to drain the tranny fluid. When I yanked the axle out it was flowing out like a river 
03-23-2005, 10:31 PM
#27
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Originally Posted by JeEvE
You do not have to remove the axle but every time I pulled my tranny I took it out, it just makes it easier. The axle dont just come out too easy, there is a small locking ring so you just have to yank on the end of the axle until it pops out. Dont forget to drain the tranny fluid. When I was pulling the transmission for the 2nd time I didnt use the manual and I ended up forgetting to drain the tranny fluid. When I yanked the axle out it was flowing out like a river
03-29-2005, 06:37 AM
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Originally Posted by MAXIN
if thats the case leave the passenger axle in... just remove that mounting bracket on the engine block and pull it out the from the diff
03-29-2005, 01:48 PM
#33
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Originally Posted by JeEvE
Are you removing the y-pipe to remove the tranny? I left mine in and it was not in the way at all. For the bolt you are talking about, you may need one of those swivel joints to get to it.
03-29-2005, 02:01 PM
#34
I would remove the engine and tranny as one. It will be much easier in the long run. The only problem is weight. Together they will be more than what 2 people can (or should) handle. I stripped a 2g Eclipse this way, but the only thing left to drop was the block and tranny. We really muscled it, and it was heavy. Best bet is to undo the center cross member, then the tranny mount, then the engine mount, and use a jack of some sort (or a cherry picker) to lower them. Why leave the engine in the car if its blown? If you want the engine in, you will need to reinstall the center cross member if you do take it out. Lining up the motor mounts can be time consuming.
I never got the tranny jack, but Autozone had one in stock if I really needed it. Insted I let the tranny fall (10") onto a couch coushin. Very simple.
there is no circlip for the passangers side axle. You should know this by the 4th install 
(im playing)
I never got the tranny jack, but Autozone had one in stock if I really needed it. Insted I let the tranny fall (10") onto a couch coushin. Very simple.
Originally Posted by JeEvE
You do not have to remove the axle but every time I pulled my tranny I took it out, it just makes it easier. The axle dont just come out too easy, there is a small locking ring so you just have to yank on the end of the axle until it pops out. Dont forget to drain the tranny fluid. When I was pulling the transmission for the 2nd time I didnt use the manual and I ended up forgetting to drain the tranny fluid. When I yanked the axle out it was flowing out like a river
(im playing)
03-29-2005, 02:39 PM
#37
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Originally Posted by JSutter
I would remove the engine and tranny as one. It will be much easier in the long run. The only problem is weight. Together they will be more than what 2 people can (or should) handle. I stripped a 2g Eclipse this way, but the only thing left to drop was the block and tranny. We really muscled it, and it was heavy. Best bet is to undo the center cross member, then the tranny mount, then the engine mount, and use a jack of some sort (or a cherry picker) to lower them. Why leave the engine in the car if its blown? If you want the engine in, you will need to reinstall the center cross member if you do take it out. Lining up the motor mounts can be time consuming.
I never got the tranny jack, but Autozone had one in stock if I really needed it. Insted I let the tranny fall (10") onto a couch coushin. Very simple.
there is no circlip for the passangers side axle. You should know this by the 4th install (im playing)
I never got the tranny jack, but Autozone had one in stock if I really needed it. Insted I let the tranny fall (10") onto a couch coushin. Very simple.
there is no circlip for the passangers side axle. You should know this by the 4th install
(im playing)If you think dropping the engine would be the easiest i think we can do that and if we need additional manpower to over it around i can round up a couple people.
03-30-2005, 09:24 AM
#38
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I would think that unless you are planning on replacing the engine, there is really no point in dropping it too. I mean are you going to move this car in the future or what?
I can't really see where dropping the engine will speed things up. You've still got to take off the intake stuff, disconnect the y pipe, and take out the axles. Beyond that, all you have to do is disconnect the grounds and reverse sensor and unbolt the tranny.
I think it is probably easier to LEAVE the engine attached to the mounts - that way you can just pull the tranny off the engine. If they are both laying on the ground, under a car that is not on a lift, I would think it is harder to get the tranny off.
Just my 2 cents.
I can't really see where dropping the engine will speed things up. You've still got to take off the intake stuff, disconnect the y pipe, and take out the axles. Beyond that, all you have to do is disconnect the grounds and reverse sensor and unbolt the tranny.
I think it is probably easier to LEAVE the engine attached to the mounts - that way you can just pull the tranny off the engine. If they are both laying on the ground, under a car that is not on a lift, I would think it is harder to get the tranny off.
Just my 2 cents.
03-30-2005, 01:14 PM
#40
Max_Gator, he wants to pull the intake manifold and front exhaust manifold. Have you ever tried to do these things when the engine is in? Its a royal pain in the ****. Also the engine is blown, and its not doing any good in the car, so Zack said I could have it. Then in the long run he can pull other parts out easier for others who need parts. I just think it makes way more since.