List of things you will need for HR pistons in a VQ35DE
02-05-2009, 03:15 PM
#1
i SeE what you did therE
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List of things you will need for HR pistons in a VQ35DE
ok... i been doing some research and this is a possible project for me..
please correct me if i am wrong in any of these numbers...
CYLINDER HEAD BOLT Product SKU: 11056-L31003 $6.06 (16)
(HR)PISTON RINGS Product SKU: 12033-Z33003 $100.67
(HR)PISTON & PIN SET Product SKU: A2010-Z33011 $57.89 (6)
BEARING SET-CRANKSHAFT Product SKU: 12208-L31003 $38.26
BOLT-CONNECTING ROD Product SKU: 12109-L31001 $3.78 (12)
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS Product SKU: 12111-L31003 $9.14 (6)
yes, i own an altima, so i used the altima 3.5L SKU's
all this came from coutresy nissan website...
please correct me if i am wrong in any of these numbers...
CYLINDER HEAD BOLT Product SKU: 11056-L31003 $6.06 (16)
(HR)PISTON RINGS Product SKU: 12033-Z33003 $100.67
(HR)PISTON & PIN SET Product SKU: A2010-Z33011 $57.89 (6)
BEARING SET-CRANKSHAFT Product SKU: 12208-L31003 $38.26
BOLT-CONNECTING ROD Product SKU: 12109-L31001 $3.78 (12)
CONNECTING ROD BEARINGS Product SKU: 12111-L31003 $9.14 (6)
yes, i own an altima, so i used the altima 3.5L SKU's
all this came from coutresy nissan website...
Last edited by redmaxpa007; 02-11-2009 at 06:19 PM. Reason: infomation was moved from another thread
02-05-2009, 11:03 PM
#7
02-11-2009, 06:17 PM
#14
I would go with the service size on the pistons. That's the ideal way to go when installing new slugs. It will ensure that the cylinders are true and the clearances are within spec in all 6.
02-11-2009, 06:24 PM
#16
02-11-2009, 06:38 PM
#17
So I believe the main goal of this thread is to determine which parts to be used when doing a build like this.
So correct me if I'm wrong. To do HR piston on De motor is the pistons, main and head bolts the only HR parts needed? the rest is DE bearings, rods, rod bolts etc?
So correct me if I'm wrong. To do HR piston on De motor is the pistons, main and head bolts the only HR parts needed? the rest is DE bearings, rods, rod bolts etc?
02-11-2009, 06:56 PM
#19
So I believe the main goal of this thread is to determine which parts to be used when doing a build like this.
So correct me if I'm wrong. To do HR piston on De motor is the pistons, main and head bolts the only HR parts needed? the rest is DE bearings, rods, rod bolts etc?
So correct me if I'm wrong. To do HR piston on De motor is the pistons, main and head bolts the only HR parts needed? the rest is DE bearings, rods, rod bolts etc?
but really at the cost of OEM bearings vs Toga's and rod bolts being cheap enough to score...why not (when in rome)
and HR oil pump would be nice to have...its all piece of mind IMO
02-11-2009, 07:01 PM
#20
service size meaning what...like .020 over? and any idea how much boring and honing would cost?
02-11-2009, 07:21 PM
#21
02-11-2009, 07:24 PM
#22
I'll try to look for the quotes I got from a local machine shop for cleaning/honing. Whichever shop you choose, make sure they use a torque plate.
Last edited by nismology; 02-11-2009 at 07:35 PM.
02-12-2009, 11:25 AM
#23
And if you're going to go with an aftermarket bearing you might as well go with ACL race series bearings (they make cosworth's as well) vs. a relatively no-name company. HR head gasket would be a nice touch as well. Superior coolant routing. Not plug and play though.
02-12-2009, 11:46 AM
#24
Toga has made a name for itself, I've used them in the many engines that I have built, my friends celica got a set and he revs beyond stock (not that its about the bearings), but I've seen them used in alot of motor builds they do just fine. Unless the price on the ACL is the same as the toga, then I'll STFU
02-12-2009, 12:38 PM
#26
02-12-2009, 01:20 PM
#27
If the HR main/head bolts will fit and are stronger than DE plus might not cost much more than the DE then why not.
02-12-2009, 01:22 PM
#28
Might be more advantageous to tear the block down yourself and inspect the wall, rather than have a shop do it and charge you.
02-12-2009, 01:31 PM
#30
it does due to them stretching once they are torqued down. ARP are re-usable and dont stretch but if you only plan to be in their once then no need to upgrade.
a VQ35 I built I put ARP head bolts in there, but now that I think about it, it wasnt needed as there was no need to ever go back in. I guess it sounds good if it were to be a show car
a VQ35 I built I put ARP head bolts in there, but now that I think about it, it wasnt needed as there was no need to ever go back in. I guess it sounds good if it were to be a show car
02-12-2009, 02:04 PM
#31
it does due to them stretching once they are torqued down. ARP are re-usable and dont stretch but if you only plan to be in their once then no need to upgrade.
a VQ35 I built I put ARP head bolts in there, but now that I think about it, it wasnt needed as there was no need to ever go back in. I guess it sounds good if it were to be a show car
a VQ35 I built I put ARP head bolts in there, but now that I think about it, it wasnt needed as there was no need to ever go back in. I guess it sounds good if it were to be a show car
02-12-2009, 02:08 PM
#32
true but there would be certain advantages to using some HR parts like main/head bolts, maybe rod bolts, HG...etc, plus like you said "If i'm only going to do it once..."
If the HR main/head bolts will fit and are stronger than DE plus might not cost much more than the DE then why not.
If the HR main/head bolts will fit and are stronger than DE plus might not cost much more than the DE then why not.
02-12-2009, 02:10 PM
#33
point taken. but if its anything more than a year later I'd have more peace of mind putting new ones in... but thats just me.
You've installed pistons bearing etc before in a vq35? or 30? (dave)
You've installed pistons bearing etc before in a vq35? or 30? (dave)
Last edited by MDeezy; 02-12-2009 at 02:14 PM.
02-12-2009, 02:11 PM
#34
depending on the age of the motor honing may not be needed. you'd need to inspect the wall and see the shape they are in, scratched, cross hatching still visible..etc..
Might be more advantageous to tear the block down yourself and inspect the wall, rather than have a shop do it and charge you.
Might be more advantageous to tear the block down yourself and inspect the wall, rather than have a shop do it and charge you.
02-12-2009, 02:12 PM
#35
Going with an oversize piston should be standard operating procedure for any high performance engine build and has nothing to do with the shape the motor is in to begin with. We're not talking about deglazing worn cylinder walls but about ensuring a perfect fit for the new slugs.
02-12-2009, 02:15 PM
#36
Except for the HR rod bolts. 
They won't fit into DE rods. Arp is still the only upgrade option other than revup bolts. Actually I think tomei, nismo, and cosworth might make some as well now that I think about it.
They won't fit into DE rods. Arp is still the only upgrade option other than revup bolts. Actually I think tomei, nismo, and cosworth might make some as well now that I think about it.
02-12-2009, 02:15 PM
#37
Going with an oversize piston should be standard operating procedure for any high performance engine build and has nothing to do with the shape the motor is in to begin with. We're not talking about deglazing worn cylinder walls but about ensuring a perfect fit for the new slugs.
02-12-2009, 02:21 PM
#38
something I was curious about in the other thread. since machining the HR pistons was needed for clearance, the alternative mentioned was the Cometic HG. If that provides the proper clearance and the motor would be as safe as if the pistons were machined... why not go with the Cometic HG, they arent that expensive and would save the worry of a machine shop doing the machining and someone makes a mistake or a piston is a little un-even or human factor lets call it that...
02-12-2009, 02:24 PM
#39
Well I'd personally go with the HR head gasket no matter what due to the superior design and coolant routing. 
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It's what I'm using in my build.
I wonder if he had confirmed what the installed thickness of the cometic would be vs. OEM head gaskets. If he had, I guess it's a quick and easy alternative to the machining process.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It's what I'm using in my build.
I wonder if he had confirmed what the installed thickness of the cometic would be vs. OEM head gaskets. If he had, I guess it's a quick and easy alternative to the machining process.
Last edited by nismology; 02-12-2009 at 02:28 PM.
02-12-2009, 02:31 PM
#40
Well I'd personally go with the HR head gasket no matter what due to the superior design and coolant routing.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It's what I'm using in my build.
I wonder if he had confirmed what the installed thickness of the cometic would be vs. OEM head gaskets. If he had, I guess it's a quick and easy alternative to the machining process.
http://www.jimwolftechnology.com/wol...HEAD_BOLTS.pdf
It's what I'm using in my build.
I wonder if he had confirmed what the installed thickness of the cometic would be vs. OEM head gaskets. If he had, I guess it's a quick and easy alternative to the machining process.
for the HR HG to work, what modifications are needed? Does whole need to be made on the left side similar to the DE HG's?