List of things you will need for HR pistons in a VQ35DE
02-12-2009, 02:50 PM
#41
http://my350z.com/forum/na-builds/40...ard-build.html
02-12-2009, 03:25 PM
#42
02-12-2009, 08:40 PM
#43
I meant to put commas there, meaning those various parts.
I mainly ask because i'm curious of the difficulty. I am no stranger to taking a motor apart, fsm, and torque sequences. I also know when assembling there are certain clearances to watch out for. I wouldn't mind doing it myself but definately not at the risk of the motor or of it being out of spec. Something are better left to the experienced to do... like welding...
I mainly ask because i'm curious of the difficulty. I am no stranger to taking a motor apart, fsm, and torque sequences. I also know when assembling there are certain clearances to watch out for. I wouldn't mind doing it myself but definately not at the risk of the motor or of it being out of spec. Something are better left to the experienced to do... like welding...
02-12-2009, 09:30 PM
#45
which tools/devices are needed when installing new pistons,rings and bearing. I know clearences need to be in a certain spec so what device is needed for that? I know a tool to compress the piston rings while installing is needed.
I guess what tools are needed for making sure clearences are in spec when assembling the bottom end?
I guess what tools are needed for making sure clearences are in spec when assembling the bottom end?
02-12-2009, 09:40 PM
#46
I have one of these somewhere...its good for checking the piston rings and piston to cylinder wall, Feeler gauge
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge
and forget the name of the tool to spread the rings to slide them on...but neither of these tools are expensive.
The part I was hated was piston pin snap on, and doing the valve springs...i hated doing it, cause I don't have great feeling in my hands and I shake alot
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Feeler_gauge
and forget the name of the tool to spread the rings to slide them on...but neither of these tools are expensive.
The part I was hated was piston pin snap on, and doing the valve springs...i hated doing it, cause I don't have great feeling in my hands and I shake alot
02-12-2009, 09:49 PM
#48
02-13-2009, 09:01 AM
#49
probably better to have a shop do it anyway, if .20 over is the best option then they'd need to do some machining to make sure they fit. might as well let them finish the whole rotating assembly
going to do some price hunting and calculating... I have strong reason to believe my motor is telling me there might not be a long life left in her...
going to do some price hunting and calculating... I have strong reason to believe my motor is telling me there might not be a long life left in her...
02-13-2009, 03:53 PM
#50
probably better to have a shop do it anyway, if .20 over is the best option then they'd need to do some machining to make sure they fit. might as well let them finish the whole rotating assembly
going to do some price hunting and calculating... I have strong reason to believe my motor is telling me there might not be a long life left in her...
going to do some price hunting and calculating... I have strong reason to believe my motor is telling me there might not be a long life left in her...
and why do you say that.
02-13-2009, 04:02 PM
#52
i SeE what you did therE
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: the DAMN south
Posts: 41,704
probably better to have a shop do it anyway, if .20 over is the best option then they'd need to do some machining to make sure they fit. might as well let them finish the whole rotating assembly
going to do some price hunting and calculating... I have strong reason to believe my motor is telling me there might not be a long life left in her...
going to do some price hunting and calculating... I have strong reason to believe my motor is telling me there might not be a long life left in her...
02-13-2009, 04:11 PM
#55
unless you cut corners and say re-used your current rods, but if your going to do the build might as well do it right so it will last. You'd definately want to have that utec with a setup like this... I believe 11.4~11.6 CR is what you'd be left with after this is complete and assembled (based on what turbos13hatch said/calculated)
02-13-2009, 04:17 PM
#56
i SeE what you did therE
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: the DAMN south
Posts: 41,704
ok.. this is turning into "since your are in there and it is stripped down, might as well".....
NOOOOOOOOOOOO... i have no budget for that.. I am talking bare minimum...
NOOOOOOOOOOOO... i have no budget for that.. I am talking bare minimum...
02-13-2009, 04:23 PM
#57
we'll you have your budget and do your shopping. Certain things you'll have to get if your going to do this right.
There are a lot of extra things you could do "since your in there" that I didnt mention as it would cost a lot more. It would be very beneficial but not completely necessary (knife edging comes to mind and blue printing).
know your budget, do your shopping and see what total you come to. If you come under budget good, if you go over see if you can find a way to make it happen or maybe go another route.
Plan B for you could be cams/HR valve springs/retainers, + utec and 7000-7500limit (factor depending). After a semi aggressive tune you should definitely feel a nice gain
There are a lot of extra things you could do "since your in there" that I didnt mention as it would cost a lot more. It would be very beneficial but not completely necessary (knife edging comes to mind and blue printing).
know your budget, do your shopping and see what total you come to. If you come under budget good, if you go over see if you can find a way to make it happen or maybe go another route.
Plan B for you could be cams/HR valve springs/retainers, + utec and 7000-7500limit (factor depending). After a semi aggressive tune you should definitely feel a nice gain
02-13-2009, 04:31 PM
#58
i SeE what you did therE
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: the DAMN south
Posts: 41,704
we'll you have your budget and do your shopping. Certain things you'll have to get if your going to do this right.
There are a lot of extra things you could do "since your in there" that I didnt mention as it would cost a lot more. It would be very beneficial but not completely necessary (knife edging comes to mind and blue printing).
know your budget, do your shopping and see what total you come to. If you come under budget good, if you go over see if you can find a way to make it happen or maybe go another route.
Plan B for you could be cams/HR valve springs/retainers, + utec and 7000-7500limit (factor depending). After a semi aggressive tune you should definitely feel a nice gain
There are a lot of extra things you could do "since your in there" that I didnt mention as it would cost a lot more. It would be very beneficial but not completely necessary (knife edging comes to mind and blue printing).
know your budget, do your shopping and see what total you come to. If you come under budget good, if you go over see if you can find a way to make it happen or maybe go another route.
Plan B for you could be cams/HR valve springs/retainers, + utec and 7000-7500limit (factor depending). After a semi aggressive tune you should definitely feel a nice gain
a modified plan "b" is in the works now...
as for the ther things that you could have suggested... yes i know..
gotta pay to play..... 
02-13-2009, 04:34 PM
#59
with you having such a youthful and (hopefully) in good shape motor, it makes it a little more difficult to justify doing a build like this outside of just wanting to have it.
but as for me... I know my motor has its days number so I could either just buy another motor and be done meh... or go with this build. I already have 2 spare blocks, cranks,heads, etc...
but as for me... I know my motor has its days number so I could either just buy another motor and be done meh... or go with this build. I already have 2 spare blocks, cranks,heads, etc...
02-13-2009, 04:38 PM
#60
i SeE what you did therE
Thread Starter
iTrader: (21)
Join Date: Nov 2000
Location: the DAMN south
Posts: 41,704
with you having such a youthful and (hopefully) in good shape motor, it makes it a little more difficult to justify doing a build like this outside of just wanting to have it.
but as for me... I know my motor has its days number so I could either just buy another motor and be done meh... or go with this build. I already have 2 spare blocks, cranks,heads, etc...
but as for me... I know my motor has its days number so I could either just buy another motor and be done meh... or go with this build. I already have 2 spare blocks, cranks,heads, etc...
and yes, you are the
parts masterbatorwhere did you think i was getting some of this stuff from?? 
02-13-2009, 04:43 PM
#61
83k wow... on an 05? wow...
True... that can help with the cost and down time. get a block/crank heads from me and get it fully built so we just take a day to pull the old and drop in the new.
I wonder if a machine show would include polishing the crank and such with the cost of labor..
True... that can help with the cost and down time. get a block/crank heads from me and get it fully built so we just take a day to pull the old and drop in the new.
I wonder if a machine show would include polishing the crank and such with the cost of labor..
02-14-2009, 12:03 PM
#62
He doesn't have to do the rods...the vq35 rods are pretty strong especially for a High compression NA build.
Hr pistons
HR head bolts
HR rod bolts
gaskets
cams
HR valve springs/shims
bearings
thats all he needs to buy, besides paying the balancing part
and a High stall TC if he so felt so
otherwise everything else is good to go for NA...he's not going to go out drag racing everyday...
Hr pistons
HR head bolts
HR rod bolts
gaskets
cams
HR valve springs/shims
bearings
thats all he needs to buy, besides paying the balancing part
and a High stall TC if he so felt so
otherwise everything else is good to go for NA...he's not going to go out drag racing everyday...
02-14-2009, 12:37 PM
#63
Nismology stated the HR head bolts wont work, would like to know why they wouldnt work or if someone can explain why then will work.
HR rods... turbos13hatche stated they wouldnt work. its in the thread stickied at the top of the all motor section
HR headgasket can work with some modification, and would be advantageous to use but its not needed, same with Cams, valve springs, etc.
it would be beneficial to the build but not needed.
HR pistons, and Valve springs and sims, then DE the rest.Cost to benefit wise might be better to DE everything, unless the HR is basically the same price but offer better protection then the choice is easy. for Jeff doing this built he wants a high comp build, but cost is a worry. which isnt the best combo as we all know when doing a build of any kind you cheap out too much and it can end up costing more.
HR rods... turbos13hatche stated they wouldnt work. its in the thread stickied at the top of the all motor section
HR headgasket can work with some modification, and would be advantageous to use but its not needed, same with Cams, valve springs, etc.
it would be beneficial to the build but not needed.
HR pistons, and Valve springs and sims, then DE the rest.Cost to benefit wise might be better to DE everything, unless the HR is basically the same price but offer better protection then the choice is easy. for Jeff doing this built he wants a high comp build, but cost is a worry. which isnt the best combo as we all know when doing a build of any kind you cheap out too much and it can end up costing more.
02-14-2009, 01:37 PM
#64
A cheap alternative to aftermarket cams are revup cams. That's what I'm going with until I can afford to buy real ones.
you say that after selling your max 
03-15-2009, 02:17 AM
#71
Just a few observations..
You do know that you have to fly cut the tops/edges of the HR pistons, so they clear the cylinder head quench pads, right? Check out my sticky at the top of this section for more details..
Also, I'd stay away from those knock-off cams.. I've had customers complain about bad grinds (lobes not ground properly) giving them crappy performance, poor idle, and such..
Travis
You do know that you have to fly cut the tops/edges of the HR pistons, so they clear the cylinder head quench pads, right? Check out my sticky at the top of this section for more details..
Also, I'd stay away from those knock-off cams.. I've had customers complain about bad grinds (lobes not ground properly) giving them crappy performance, poor idle, and such..
Travis
03-18-2009, 06:43 AM
#72
Is there anybody here that has experienced any of these symptoms with these cams installed? I know a couple people have them, or have had them.
03-20-2009, 01:06 AM
#78
A car that Tilley installed a set in (Which is now at my shop), didn't run properly with the "JDM" cams.. I installed a set in a customer's VQ35, running on a 5th gen ECU with CVTC, and the car had idling issues, along with odd compression numbers. We double checked the cam timing.. even pulled it apart and reset it, just to be safe. Same thing..
I've built TONS of engines, and I know that we were spot on.. So, I sent the cams to Comp, to be checked out on thier cam doctor. The lobes were not ground properly.. The ramp angles were all dissimilar to one another.. and some were a few degrees off from the others..
Travis
I've built TONS of engines, and I know that we were spot on.. So, I sent the cams to Comp, to be checked out on thier cam doctor. The lobes were not ground properly.. The ramp angles were all dissimilar to one another.. and some were a few degrees off from the others..
Travis
03-20-2009, 07:10 AM
#80
Thanks Travis. This is the first I've ever heard of these deluboz cams getting a bad review.
I am going to install the same set of cams in my engine after reading the countless amount of great reviews I've read in the Maxima and Altima community. I ended up getting my cams for only $400 shipped due to a sale deluboz was doing and a cashback program MSN was doing with ebay. I hope they work.
I am going to install the same set of cams in my engine after reading the countless amount of great reviews I've read in the Maxima and Altima community. I ended up getting my cams for only $400 shipped due to a sale deluboz was doing and a cashback program MSN was doing with ebay. I hope they work.