d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Well, the GD thread has been getting cluttered, and the typical "OMFG i just got my Ksports" and "help me choose my suspension, wtf are coilovers" threads are just not the place for tech talk. So, here it is... a place to share experiences, ask questions, and trade information about these coilovers.

The only request that I and the other endorsers of this thread make is that we keep it on-topic! Reviews, specifications, comparisons with other products, tips and tricks, and things like that are all cool, but let's save the flames for PM and not get derailed talking about other cars or something.

First thing to address is to get some pics in here. I'll then follow up by re-posting some good info from existing threads.



If you are having noise problems, see THIS POST first.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Courtesy of Mr.Duck

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Again, courtesy of Mr.Duck

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

How was Mr. Duck able to fix the bouncy ride while being set to full stiff?

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

Also can you guys provide picture of the damping screws?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

"Set to full stiff" refers to the firmness of the shock absorbers. A shock absorber's job is to control the movement of the spring and keep the car and the wheel from bouncing uncontrollably after hitting a bump. With really stiff springs, you want as much firmness in the shocks as possible because it's going to take a lot of effort to keep the springs' movements under control.

People were getting a bouncy ride either by having too little shock stiffness dialed in, or by having preload on the springs, which makes them act stiffer than they are. In either case, it's too much spring stiffness and too little shock stiffness.

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

What would you say is a good firmness setting? 25?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Depends on your taste. You really just have to try a setting and ride on it for a while to see if you like it.

I won't be able to weigh in with my personal preference for about another week and a half, but from what I've heard, the best results have always been from 27 up.

Nathan

iTrader: (28)

The only "problems" I've run into the Ksport coilover install was a hard time removing the lower stud on the rear shocks. I tried with a torque wrench at 150 foot pounds and it wouldn't budge. Luckily I had an impact gun and was able to break it loose. Penetrating oil would be required for this, or a large breaker bar.

Here are excellent and simple instructions that everyone can use to install their ksports/D2/jic's/tein's:
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....04#post2971704

A33 VQ30DEK

iTrader: (23)

soo how would you compare these to Tein or JIC. Made just as good or the same quality as the D2s?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Apparently they ride smoother than the Tein SS (even though the SS has much softer springs!) and much smoother than the JICs. Quality is at least as good as D2, probably slightly better; these were designed specifically not to have some of the problems of the D2s.

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

Hey d00d, thanks for starting this thread. I know I will have alot of questions since I dont know much about coilovers... for starters:

I was wondering, what is the difference between dropping and getting pre-load? Is there another adjustment for that? How?

Im hoping to be able to drive (daily driver mode) with like 1" of drop but when I take it to the track, I would like to drop it to 2". When I do this, I will also be increasing the negative camber, right? Added bonus if I am... As it will allow me to extend the treadlife of my street tires... I would ideally be able to set the alignment to -.5 camber at "street" level and get it down to about -1.2 at the dropped level.

Does this sound possible?

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

yes thanks d00d for this tech thread im ure it'll come in much use!

Luigi38

iTrader: (2)

I'm in the same boat, I just got the CO and I have no idea how much I have to adjust this things.
I'm painting my calipers and the rusty a$$ wheel hub.
So I'll probably install these on Monday.

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

25? How do people come up with these numbers? There are only 3 or 4 full turns from softest to stiffest.

Spaniard, in order to change these at the track you'll need 2 jacks most likely or a jack and a stand. In order to lower raise them you need to remove the 2 control arm mounting bolts, support the axle with a jack, loosen the perch, and turn them, then put back together. I'm also guessing that you could change the camber with the camber plates, even though there are no marked numbers on them. Not sure if it would be negative camber or positive though. KSport said that we could use the assembly for either side in front but the way we have it now the camber plate is diagonal not horizontal. The pillowballs are already pushed all the way back so I'm not sure if it would work for the track the way we have it. We'll be swapping them next week whenever duck and I have some free time. I hope that it also fixes the popping sound he's experiencing.

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

Guys, Dave is the one who has been helping me with my coilovers this entire time, he was the one that installed them for me, and i have learned a great deal. Only problem is that i lost my key to my wheel lucks.. i know i know.. im an idiot, and i will be getting that problem fixed on monday. And hopefully on tuesday, Dave and I will be able to tackle the coilovers again.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Take a look at the bottom pic. You see how there's a threaded body (silver), a collar where it meets the bottom part of the shock, and then another (black) collar at the bottom? You loosen those collars and turn the bottom part to set the height. Now, look at the other collar on the bottom of the spring. Turning that one will change the position of the bottom of the spring on that threaded body, which will change preload.

Your ideas about changing camber with ride height will work in general, although I can't say what actual numbers might be like (i.e. how much extra camber for how much drop). Also keep in mind that changing camber via the camber plates will change caster and toe at the same time.

willis

iTrader: (2)

I know it's a pretty subjective question, but i'm still interested in opinions.

Is anybody running these after being on agx/sprints, and if so what are your impressions comparing the two?

Or anyone coming from a non-stock suspension have any comment?

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

They're advertised as 36-way adjustable shocks, so 25 would be the 11th setting from the top.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

here... I answered that settings question kinda late and I want to make sure I didn't steamroll this one.

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

What Dave is saying is that where are you getting these numbers? there are no clicks or anything... adjusting the dampening is just 4 to 5 full turns....and thats it

i can compare my ksports to GR-2's, and Tein H-techs, a friend has that, and i think its pretty comparable.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Are there markings on the dials?

Either way, the important thing is not the exact setting, but the fact that the optimum will be near the top of the range.

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

Thanks,d00d... In that bottom pic, would it be correct to say that the pic was taken before much drop was dialed in? Looks like lots of thread left to drop it..

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

Thanks, Dave... Sounds like a bit more work than I had thought so Im probably going to just leave it dropped all the time, since it will look better- and I dont have to worry about the drop necessarily causing pre-load.. Cool!

DAVE Sz

iTrader: (2)

Dropping them over and over won't cause any preload on the springs. To lower the height you use the lower perch, to put pre-load on the springs you use the upper perch.
Again, I'm not sure how they got the 36way adjustable crap, must be some kind of advertizing BS. There are no clicks or anything. There are markings on top of the allen wrenches that are supplied but that's really pointless. What we did, if I recall, was count how many turns of the allens it took, turn it all the way to the stiffest, and back it out a turn or so. Now that we put preload on the springs, I believe he backed it out even more as it became stiffer.

It seems you don't know much about these coilovers at all. 11th setting from the top? What top? Unless you're wording it wrong I'm not really understanding anything you're trying to say.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Hard to say what height it's set to just looking at that pic, but yeah, looks like you have plenty of room.

Dave Sz and Mr.Duck, why did you guys preload the springs?

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

that is exactly how i adjusted my dampening, and the reason why i put a little preload on was because i was talking to ksport about my clicking noise, and they said if the spring is moving than that may be the cause of it, and since i put absolutely no preload on, the springs were moving a lot. when the car was lifted there was a gap b/w the spring and the perch... so i just tightened it a bit. which made my ride a bit harsher. at the momeny i think i have found the perfect dampening. its basically right in the middle, with a tad of preload. its nice. now to tackle that damn noise problem, when and IF i figure out the fix to it, i will post it up.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Ease up man, it's cool... we're all friends here.

Top = stiffest setting.

I was just speaking the same language as the guy who initially asked the question. He threw out a number, which I presume he got by seeing "36-way adjustable" and picking a number between 1 and 36. When I said 27 later, I was saying that because I read that one user got the best setting with 3/4 stiffness, and 3/4 of 36 is 27.

Like I said, anyway, the important thing is not the number but how close it is to the top of the range.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

hey mr duck how much noise is it?

Mr.Duck

iTrader: (8)

like, 2 clicks from the right side, i just need to get the wheel locks replaced so i can get the damn wheels off, which i will be doing on monday.

VIP Maxima

who else has k sport besides mr duck?

djfrestyl

iTrader: (89)

subscribing.

can we talk about 5th genners rear mount? ive ordered new strut mounts, and have the coils in hand. theres a bunch of washers and poly bushings - which order do they go in?
right now ive got - orange perch, washer, 1 bushing, strut mount, other bushing, washer, nut (from bottom to top) looks right but just wanna make sure. (theres a metal spindle that goes inbetween the 2 bushings, thats in there too). i can host pics, let me know if u need em to clarify.

thanks,
nilesh

MAXIN

iTrader: (5)

control arm bolts?.. You dont need to loosen anything but the bottom orange locking perch above the spindle mount. With the spring perches locked, use the C-wrench (at the spring perch) to turn the entire assemble as one... This will raise and lower the height. I guess you can do remove the spindle mount bolts too but and just turn the shock mount itself but thats a little more work to me.

But the lower you go the more the spring will move from top hat, and vice versa. If you go to low you will have to raise the spring itself back up to the top hat. Lock that bottom perch that was loosened earlier, and loosen the locking spring perch use the C-wrench turn the spring perch up until that rubber insert is somewhat seated within the spring. You dont need to give it pre-load either, you just want the insert to be somewhat seated within that center of the spring, or it may eventually rip like 1MAX2NV had with his D2s from normal jacking. I suspect that with a gap there is no telling how the spring will seat within that rubber insert whenver you jack up and lower the car.


I didnt have to raise or lower the fronts - I got it at the height I wanted in one shot. But the rears I had to raise and I did the above method. Had to do it from behind the wheel however.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

You know... if this insert ripping business becomes an issue, maybe we can look into getting helper springs?

http://e30m3performance.com/tech_art...-tech/springs/

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Re-post from another thread -- some might find this useful:


To the guys asking about comparisons with shocks/struts:

NOTHING will be as smooth as stock/H-Tech/H&R springs with Tokico Illumina or Koni Yellow shocks. Period. Konis and Illuminas are freakin' great shocks that will keep everything under control, and those springs are soft enough that they'll soak up the bumps with ease. If you're coming from one of these setups and going to coilovers, you'll find the coilovers harder over bumps.

That said, the coilovers will virtually ELIMINATE wallowing and rolling, and they give you astronomical levels of grip that you just cannot get with any other setup. This makes the car give you a feeling of control that, combined with the car settling really quickly after a bump, makes many people think that the ride with good coilovers is better than with any spring-and-strut combo -- even stock.

And if you're coming from any lesser spring-and-shock combo -- for example, any lowering springs with Tokico Blue, KYB GR-2, or KYB AGX -- you'll almost definitely prefer the ride with K-Sports. Tokico Blues or GR-2s combined with lowering springs make the ride bouncy -- when you go over a bump, the initial shock will be soft but the car will continue to bounce for a bit afterward. AGXs are just harsh in general. K-Sports make the initial shock a little harder, but they won't bounce as badly (if you set the damping right ), and the car will handle much, much better.

If you have Ground Controls, throw them out right now. If you have $740, or can scrape it together by any means, do it.


To anyone trying to choose between these and JICs:

Choose these. Half the price (until 48 hours from now!), same performance, and less harshness.


To anyone trying to choose between these and Illuminas/Tein S-Tech springs:

Choose these. They'll give you about the same ride with much better handling, they're much more adjustable, and they won't destroy your suspension travel when you drop the car 2" or more.


Track setup:

Add some preload and crank the damping up to match.

Spaniard

iTrader: (1)

Wow good link for me- learning alot since I bought these COs.

Hey, not to change the subject but I have a question:

Ive heard from a thread that dropping the car >2 inches can cause some issues (drivetrain??). Now since I plan on absolutely taxing the car as much as possible at the track, should I be mindful of this do you think, and only drop the car, say, 1.99 inches????? Joking aside, I would rather sacrifice a bit of center of gravity for not breaking something.

Cheers

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

^^^hey im tryin to sell my illuminas and stechs to get money for the coilovers, what are doing signaling out that specific combination lol

VIP Maxima

im ordering these tomorrow morning. you guys think 9/6 is too harsh or what? thats the default spring rate

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

What I've heard is that the axles are what don't take well to that much lowering. New axles will solve that.


Haha, sorry... I didn't mean to say it's a bad combo. I just picked it out because it's a common setup for people who want a big drop and super handling, which is also often what people want coilovers for. My post was directed at people who don't have that combo and are trying to decide what to buy. The point was that S-Techs/Illuminas will run about $650, so if you can stretch the extra $90, K-Sport coilovers would be better.


Jinsu and K-Sport don't want you to get different spring rates because it's more work for them. But seriously, if you're getting coilovers, you're obviously putting handling before comfort, so going with softer springs kinda defeats the purpose. Besides, the shocks are valved for 9/6 springs, so you'd most likely lose more in handling than you'd gain in ride comfort.

d00df00d

iTrader: (4)

Hey.... I hope we don't lose any questions or lines of thought if I add another, but Spaniard and I talked a bit about heading off possible problems with noise from the pillow ball mounts by stuffing rubber or polyurethane washers in there. If anyone has any thoughts, please feel free to share.

Which reminds me... Anyone care to answer the installation question for the 5th gen that was posted earlier? (post #32)