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Cranking all Day no Start, after dead Battery, Solid Security light
Monday morning going to work, car battery dead as a dog for literally no reason. Tried using a jumper box to get it going, had one half close attempt, after that it wouldnt even finish a complete start attempt it was so dead. Got a new battery (best cold crank they had), and it cranks all day but nothing...
following the advice of a nice friend who happened to be over that night we tried replacing fuel pump(randomly on the shelf at the local store) and nothing, (checked voltage to it and it was good), we couldn't properly check the voltage from the Fuel sending unit to the fuel pump, but I don't think that's my issue...then.the next day I was able to check the classic
ENG CONT1 fuse in the engine bay and that was blown to shreds, I replaced that fuse, but now I still have the problem.....crank all day no start
I have a blinking AT CHECK light ( it blinks 16 times) and a solid Security light.... if i lock the car the security light stays solid as well, if I unlock the car the security light blinks every couple seconds ,radio and heat/fans can not turn on what soever at all as well,
what do I do next??? i cant pull any codes, the code reader says link error
I have a new starter with in one year, all CPS cranks are Hitachi replaced with in 7 years ago. it all began with the dead battery, and then the blown fuse ENG CONT 1..... any thoughts!?? is it NATS
I wouldn't have my car if it wasn't for this place. so thanks in advance
i found 2 more 15 amp fuses under the hood that were blown, audio and speaker, as soon as I try to insert a new fuses it blows and destroys the new fuse ! i can literally see it spark..... it didnt do that on the 15 AMP ENG CONT 1 fuse tho.... ???
wasted 3 fuses
the instant blown fuses now make me think its a short some where and also the reason of the beginning of these problems a super dead battery for no reason.... idk! this may be it yawl.. tracking down a short... not fun
since i have the solid red security light, should I buy the NDSII and get the usb cable ???
or is this the non software way? i am pretty sure I tried this last evening a few times, theres no way to know if you did it right in my case cuz the AT CHECK light contintued to flash and solid security light
LOCK MODE FUNCTION
When the starting operation is carried out five or more
times consecutively under the following conditions, IVIS
(NATS) will shift the mode to one which prevents the
engine from being started.
- Unregistered ignition key is used.
- IMMU or ECM’s malfunctioning.
Quote:
ESCAPE FROM LOCK MODE
1. Turn ignition switch OFF.
2. Turn ignition switch ON with registered key. (Do not start engine.) Wait 5 seconds.
3. Return the key to OFF position.
4. Repeat steps 2 and 3 twice (total of three cycles).
5. Start the engine.
Other useful info:
again i cant even read any codes, the code reader says link error, does that resonate with being in LOCK mode and NATS ?? does that block codes being read ?
Go to the FSM and look at the wiring schematic and see what is on the 3 fuses that blew. Double check all fuses. You are going to have to find the short. No way around it.
thanks for the replay man, in a layman's term isn't finding a short on a car a nightmare?? the car the week before had the last two pieces of exhaust replaced (resonator and muffler) and it drove fine for 3 days, sat for the weekend and then super blown battery monday morning. Here's the main quesiton
Would a short killl a battery and make it super dead??
by any chance is there every a scenario that it isn't a short ?, like from the NATS and being locked up ?
the first fuse ENG CONT 1 doesn't blow instantly, just AUDIO & SPEAKER . Replacing ENG CONT1 was a normal process and is still not blown.
I just picked 03 I35 that was draining the battery overnight and it was the factory Bose head unit that was draining the battery. Pulled it out yesterday and it was very warm to the touch.
At first, I was going to blame NATS, but as you described, you can't replace blown fuses without sparks and blowing the fuses instantly again. So I agree with JSutter, you have a short which has to be tracked down, which can be a nightmare as you described.
Find out what those fuses are for, then logically trace the wires. Somewhere, a wire is grounding out and touching bare metal.
I would check your radio wiring. I know it’s been fine since install but maybe something worked it’s way loose and is grounding out. Do you have aftermarket speakers wired in also? Could take a look there.
If the eng cont fuse isn’t blowing anymore and you now just have a solid red light when cranking, it might be a NATS issue at this point.
thanks yawl, appreciate the responses. I will do my best to check the stereo wires, seems so random. nothing else aftermarket other than the head unit and any convertor to use the bose amp/speakers. i installed it May 2019 haven't had issues since then.
I have an appointment at a shop but feel tracking down a short my be too much for an average shop.
can someone confirm this, NATS requires a NDS-II scan tool or software to be able to "unlock" the car from being in "lock mode" correct? Is that all that NATS is ? alternatively you can unlock the car as mentioned above with the sequence using a key on and off etc. ? Is that all NATS is?
also the last thing done on the car was exhaust at midas the last two pieces of the exhaust. the resonator and muffler (even though the muffler was fine)
they installed it really bad, it was knocking against the bottom of the car at idle, i had to take it back and they did actually fix the knocking and I then drove it for 3 days to work.
parked it for the weekend and then monday morning battery super dead. i tried to jump it with a battery jumper box and feel like I had one half good attempt but the jumper box/battery shorted out while cranking. hasn't turned over since
here's my next steps..... just ordered the "KKL 409.1 VAG-COM" OBD2 USB Cable, i will purchase the software NDS II, and reset the NATS that way ( gotta find a windows laptop though lol). i hope its not too crazy I don't wanna ruin anything lol. i did see you can monitor the fuel system function so that will be a plus too to check during this no start drama
i have a flashing AT CHECK light (for 8 seconds when ignition is on) and have no idea whats up with that. obviously manual says check transmission... but i think its electrical IDK ! then of course the shorts with "audio" and "speaker" slots in the fuse box under the hood, i hope to rip out the stereo to see anything obvious. I may leave it out after if I don't see anything. I have an service scheduled a trust worthy shop 8 days from now and can have it towed via insurance for not too much money. i mind as well have a pro take a look at it before... I ..... give up.... definitely been bummed since all this.
something made the battery super dead for no reason, and furthermore i have a theory that when I was jumping it with the jumper box it wrecked havoc when the jumper box didnt give it enough juice to turn over when i had 1 half close attempt turning it over. i remember seeing a couple puffs out of the exhaust too, meaning it was really close, and then got the new battery thinking that was it, but when that didn't do a thing and got the solid red security, and then flashing AT light, then ENG CONT 1 replaced w no success (no shorting though), and shorting audio and speaker fuses.... it's been rough.
replaced more fuses ( air bag, abs) on the interior fuse box, and got have the stereo out, and for giggles i plugged in the code reader (hoping I code read codes) and still got a link error, and heard a weird noise sizzle, then smelled rotten burning and saw some smoke seeping from behind the stereo and i could clearly see it since i had the ash tray and center vents out for the stereo removal. and now the airbag and abs fuse are blown again from turning the car to the on position that one time, the AT check light didn't blink on that one try as well but solid red security.
thanks for asking dude, today marks a whole week at the dealer, , i had scheduled an appointment last Friday 930. when I left the main goal was to unlock the immobilization, and get the car turned over. called end of the first day. they never called me once about anything. I gave it time, and I called Wednesday (day 5) and actually got a hold of someone, they said they are having issues getting the keys reprogrammed (the car is immobilized) , he said it could be with the Nissan software and the software has had issues recently in general..??. I said so this isn't racking up a bill right, he said no.
I am calling today 48 hours since then.... I find it very odd how they are doing things. The car hasn't been moved since i towed it in that spot. I understand they are trying to turn it over before manually moving it... idk man... it's kinda pathetic. but I am also glad I didn't buy NDS-II data scan just yet... cuz if they are having issues, I would have had fun trying it myself and never using that software before etc. fingers crossed man... its gotta be something stupid... in my mind worst thing it may be is a blown ECU of some sort.... but again its blowing fuses (inside [Airbag , ABS] & engine bay [Audio, Speaker]) so i wish I could understand things more but yea... that's the update....
its been 3 weeks with out the car, so I had to line up a 2nd car in the meantime... at the end of the day I hope this thing can be fixed and then I can have 2 cars... well see.
Fingers crossed. Hope that you get all sorted out. Electrical issues aren't fun to deal with, I'd rather do mechanical work all day!
Last month, I picked up a 2003 I35 for my college bound son to replace the 2000 SE that he had, and right after bringing the car home we've noticed that it was draining the battery overnight, but it would start right up after the battery was recharged. I've started to browse threads and post in an attempt to learn more about the car's electrical stuff and how to check and troubleshot parasitic battery drain. Well, it turned out that it was the stock Bose radio that was draining the battery. It was warm to the touch when I got to it and, as soon as a I pulled it out, bam! no more dead battery in the morning.
Hope that the dealer has some decent techs working there and they can get it to start without draining your bank account.
yeahp! thats ineresting, yea for my case I had an aftermakert stereo for 4 years with no issues and then it was just dead. honestly the battery was a few years old so idk. i just have this feeling the jumper box attempt at the start wrecked havoc idk what else. but
i just got of the phone, they got the reprogramming of the keys finsihed! but it is still not turning over. he said sometimes the immobilization units do fail. hes still looking/ working on it, but right now my service is only at the electrical diagnosis fee right now which isn't all that bad. fingers crossed for sure! i hope its something simple like a module or something.... he also said they did not get into any wiring yet.
no luck man ! no luck, and the security light is still on when cranking, so I am not sure exactly if the dealer did anything but try to use OBD-2 with the nissan software....i am surprised they said they reprogrammed the keys.. cuz I cannot even confirm if that was done.
been tough
The dealer just basically washed their hands on it and gave it back without even trying too hard?
exactly, yes, barely looked at anything but a code reader, i said it was immobilized and specifically went to them to reset the immobilizer to get it cranked over, said they reprogrammed the keys, even tho immobilizer light is still solid, and then blamed my helpful description of symptoms and ripped open center dash and vents as the reasons not to look at at it and wash their hands. they said it would be minimum $2000 with a week of work to actually look into it with no guarantee of a solution, and " i have one tech out this week and transmission lined up and we can't schedule it in"
when i called to schedule the service, they were literally available for days on end any day I wanted to schedule, i dropped the car off the day it was scheduled (keep in mind towing), and literally didn't get one call or returned call about the car for over 5-6 business days after the scheduled time and appointment....i literally had to call for them to "start"
nope !, it could be helpful if you can bypass i presume, but considering the curveball of electrical shorts mixed in... idk, im not the most mechanically inclined either so it's tough. sighh...
Have you checked the NATS box antenna ring? A 2002 I35 owner had a no start issue where the car would crank with the security light on while cranking. He fixed it by replacing the NATS box antenna ring.
damn dude sounds like a serious possibility of a culprit.... right now i have the car cleaned and covered as a lawn ornament... it kills me...but yea... haven't given it much effort since getting my new ride... also besides NATS there are electrical shorts to the point of OBD2 can not be utilized at this time..... i'm on the fence of selling it / parting out...while taking my time figuring out what to do... i get ambitions to rip it apart and fine the shorts, but at what cost and what guarantee it will be the end of the issues....
06-28-2023, 05:01 PM
