P0455 just what I need
10-09-2013, 05:40 PM
#1
P0455 just what I need
My car starts then stalls after a few sec I wonder how much this gonna cost. Im going to get a gas cap doubt thats the problem but gotta start somewhere.
10-09-2013, 09:23 PM
#2
Another cause of the P0455 is the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve. This is attached to the EVAP canister and has a plunger that will get stuck and won't move. Many people have been able to free the plunger with WD40 type stuff and a screwdriver. The have been a bunch of threads on this and also youtube videos.
10-10-2013, 04:47 AM
#3
Another cause of the P0455 is the EVAP Canister Vent Control Valve. This is attached to the EVAP canister and has a plunger that will get stuck and won't move. Many people have been able to free the plunger with WD40 type stuff and a screwdriver. The have been a bunch of threads on this and also youtube videos.
10-10-2013, 05:06 AM
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
Posts: 1,441
Definitely start with gas cap like you said. EVAP shouldn't make your car stall and be inoperable. Check engine light is the only thing that should happen, but the car should still run.
My dad's old Camry has been running with a broken EVAP canister and check engine light ever since 200k miles, it's now at 300k with no issues. My little bro drives the heck out of that car with no problems.
That said, you must have another problem if your car is stalling. Is there any other codes perhaps? Maybe something fuel related.
My dad's old Camry has been running with a broken EVAP canister and check engine light ever since 200k miles, it's now at 300k with no issues. My little bro drives the heck out of that car with no problems.
That said, you must have another problem if your car is stalling. Is there any other codes perhaps? Maybe something fuel related.
10-10-2013, 05:43 AM
#5
Definitely start with gas cap like you said. EVAP shouldn't make your car stall and be inoperable. Check engine light is the only thing that should happen, but the car should still run.
My dad's old Camry has been running with a broken EVAP canister and check engine light ever since 200k miles, it's now at 300k with no issues. My little bro drives the heck out of that car with no problems.
That said, you must have another problem if your car is stalling. Is there any other codes perhaps? Maybe something fuel related.
My dad's old Camry has been running with a broken EVAP canister and check engine light ever since 200k miles, it's now at 300k with no issues. My little bro drives the heck out of that car with no problems.
That said, you must have another problem if your car is stalling. Is there any other codes perhaps? Maybe something fuel related.
10-12-2013, 04:35 PM
#6
After checking my gas cap and clearing code I started my car this morning it ran fine but then I drove around my complex it stalled, cut off, the steering wheel locked up no codes are showing up.
10-14-2013, 07:19 PM
#9
Make sure your keeping the proper amount of oil in your engine. When the engine gets low on oil the camshaft isnt lubricated and will throw this code.
11-07-2013, 05:36 PM
#11
Fuel pump is fine they changed the fuel delivery unit that didnt work either. My fuel guage isnt working right I keep running out of gas it gets to half full then stops. The shop said it could be the pcm or the cluster. I put $25 on friday around 930 at night I was out of gas by sunday afternnon I didnt even drive it that much. My car seems to be losing gas some how. I know when its about to cut off i get a heavy smell of gas while Im driving. Confused byu this no codes so nothimg to go on ant help would be appreciated.
11-07-2013, 11:39 PM
#12
A camshaft sensor should throw either a P0340 or P0345 code, depending a which bank.
The stalling could be a bad MAF, they don't always throw a code. There was a post by another org member that was having car dying issues and he discovered that Midas Muffler had some sort of test equipment for the MAF that most places don't have. He did have a bad MAF. As another point, a bad MAF can kill your gas mileage.
There is a combined unit in the gas tank that has a sending unit for the gas gauge, a fuel filter and the fuel pump in it. You take the unit out of the tank (fairly easy to do) and then replace the section that is bad. If you replace the whole thing, it's kind of expensive.
The stalling could be a bad MAF, they don't always throw a code. There was a post by another org member that was having car dying issues and he discovered that Midas Muffler had some sort of test equipment for the MAF that most places don't have. He did have a bad MAF. As another point, a bad MAF can kill your gas mileage.
There is a combined unit in the gas tank that has a sending unit for the gas gauge, a fuel filter and the fuel pump in it. You take the unit out of the tank (fairly easy to do) and then replace the section that is bad. If you replace the whole thing, it's kind of expensive.
Last edited by DennisMik; 11-07-2013 at 11:52 PM. Reason: grammar
11-08-2013, 04:52 AM
#13
A camshaft sensor should throw either a P0340 or P0345 code, depending a which bank.
The stalling could be a bad MAF, they don't always throw a code. There was a post by another org member that was having car dying issues and he discovered that Midas Muffler had some sort of test equipment for the MAF that most places don't have. He did have a bad MAF. As another point, a bad MAF can kill your gas mileage.
There is a combined unit in the gas tank that has a sending unit for the gas gauge, a fuel filter and the fuel pump in it. You take the unit out of the tank (fairly easy to do) and then replace the section that is bad. If you replace the whole thing, it's kind of expensive.
The stalling could be a bad MAF, they don't always throw a code. There was a post by another org member that was having car dying issues and he discovered that Midas Muffler had some sort of test equipment for the MAF that most places don't have. He did have a bad MAF. As another point, a bad MAF can kill your gas mileage.
There is a combined unit in the gas tank that has a sending unit for the gas gauge, a fuel filter and the fuel pump in it. You take the unit out of the tank (fairly easy to do) and then replace the section that is bad. If you replace the whole thing, it's kind of expensive.
11-08-2013, 05:19 AM
#14
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: Snakeden Branch, VA
Posts: 1,441
Dude, wish I could get back to this sooner.
I'm pretty sure this is not fuel related and it's not camshaft sensor or any of those things...
You mentioned a key code in an earlier post...
P0420 = Catalyst Efficiency below Threshold (Bank 1 IIRC/please correct me if I'm wrong, it's the rear cat closest to the firewall)
You either have a bad cat or it could just be the o2 sensor/circuit malfunctioning. This explains the fuel smell and stalling, all that other stuff. Likely why you had the EVAP code as well, all related to this I assume.
You either need to reset the ECU/you might have a bad cat/it might just be an o2 circuit malfunction. This has been covered before on the forums, do a search. But you need to have the cats and o2's inspected as it can be a serious problem if the cat is bad.
I'm pretty sure this is not fuel related and it's not camshaft sensor or any of those things...
You mentioned a key code in an earlier post...
P0420 = Catalyst Efficiency below Threshold (Bank 1 IIRC/please correct me if I'm wrong, it's the rear cat closest to the firewall)
You either have a bad cat or it could just be the o2 sensor/circuit malfunctioning. This explains the fuel smell and stalling, all that other stuff. Likely why you had the EVAP code as well, all related to this I assume.
You either need to reset the ECU/you might have a bad cat/it might just be an o2 circuit malfunction. This has been covered before on the forums, do a search. But you need to have the cats and o2's inspected as it can be a serious problem if the cat is bad.
11-11-2013, 05:35 PM
#15
Im going to try changing out the fuel pump already have a new sending unit cant hurt unless I mess something up. This question is for those who have changed there fule pumps,which brand should I get?
05-16-2014, 11:35 AM
#17
Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Chicago,IL
Posts: 235
05-17-2014, 10:32 PM
#18
Bought a new fuel pump from rock auto $25 fuel filter also yes I cleared the p0455 code the day it started having problems it never came back so I knew that it was something else.
Last edited by cmd26; 05-17-2014 at 10:35 PM.
05-28-2014, 05:31 AM
#19
New fuel pump but the problem has resurfaced. I still can't tell how much gas is in my car because the gas gauge is all over the place. Whatever this problem is the fuel pump wasn't my problem. Does anyone know what controls the gas gauge? I have a new sending unit also. Would a faulty cluster create my gas gauge issue?
Last edited by cmd26; 05-28-2014 at 05:34 AM.
05-28-2014, 02:30 PM
#21
Fuel pump is fine they changed the fuel delivery unit that didnt work either. My fuel guage isnt working right I keep running out of gas it gets to half full then stops. The shop said it could be the pcm or the cluster. I put $25 on friday around 930 at night I was out of gas by sunday afternnon I didnt even drive it that much. My car seems to be losing gas some how. I know when its about to cut off i get a heavy smell of gas while Im driving. Confused byu this no codes so nothimg to go on ant help would be appreciated.
^^^^^^^^^ If you recall your thread started about stallin, was your gas gauge working before this post ? Because its easy to f up the sending unit if not careful , idk how yours was changed if its solder to the rest of the unit, maybe they changed your fuel pump and filter and screwed up the lil arm floater and put every thing back wrong with the same o ring creating gas smells ..... Just my theory
05-28-2014, 04:26 PM
#22
^^^^^^^^^ If you recall your thread started about stallin, was your gas gauge working before this post ? Because its easy to f up the sending unit if not careful , idk how yours was changed if its solder to the rest of the unit, maybe they changed your fuel pump and filter and screwed up the lil arm floater and put every thing back wrong with the same o ring creating gas smells ..... Just my theory
Last edited by cmd26; 05-28-2014 at 04:31 PM.
05-28-2014, 04:41 PM
#23
All my problems started at the same time. The sending unit was changed by the shop the problem didn't go away so I changed the fuel pump car drove fine for a few month's even on low fuel now the problem is back. After both were changed the gauge still wasn't working right showing me different fuel levels every time I started my car. But it never stalled again until Saturday.
05-28-2014, 05:05 PM
#24
I know it was changed I was there when the new unit was installed it had no effect until I changed the fuel pump. I took everything apart per the fuel filter write up, the sending unit was working like it should but the gauge wasn't.
05-28-2014, 05:10 PM
#25
If the floater arm was bent or damaged during removal or installation your gas gauge won't work properly or the parts they installed are defective and took a crap
06-11-2014, 07:39 PM
#27
This is some frustrating bs, 2 new sending units same result im going to go insane until I fix this issue. My next step is to check the harness but after that Im clueless on what to do next. Ive never changed the fuel filter Im now wondering if its so dirty it might be the culprit but i doubtful about that. I trying to buy a house so a new car right isnt even an option plus I cant afford an audi anyway lol.
06-22-2014, 08:07 PM
#28
Cluster maybe? Does anybody know what the numbers under mileage on the cluster mean, mines is pretty high like 1700 and keeps rising, is this normal?http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/kk6/cmd265/Mobile%20Uploads/?action=view¤t=20140622_211421_zpsfde5feba.j pg
Last edited by cmd26; 06-22-2014 at 08:23 PM.
06-22-2014, 08:30 PM
#29
Cluster maybe? Does anybody know what the numbers under mileage on the cluster mean, mines is pretty high like 1700 and keeps rising, is this normal?http://s276.photobucket.com/albums/k...psfde5feba.jpg
that your trip odometer, if you hold down the button/plunger on the tach is will reset, if you press it, it will cycle from a to b, one could be for full to empty and one could be for a distance traveled from city to city, or maybe to monitor between oil changesbut i think your problem has to be something else, your focused on your fuel gauge when i dont think at this point you should be. go rent a fuel pressure gauge from the zone or oreilly or something and get fuel pressure readings
unplug your Mass air flow sensor and see if it says running, it wont rev past 2500 rpm, but if it doesnt die, there is your problem
Last edited by NSMO240; 06-22-2014 at 08:50 PM.
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