defiance

iTrader: (1)

I have a serious issue here guys, my driver side front window got stuck all the way in the down position and I think its the switch. Is it possible for me to jump wires to bypass the switch and attempt to roll the window up ? It rains almost everyday here in NJ so I need to get this window up ASAP while I try and find a switch.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

you should be able to, yes. Look in the FSM for your year maxima and you will be able to find which wires to apply 12v to and which ones to ground...it's directly to the regulator iirc

www.nicoclub.com/FSM/Maxima/

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Yes, you can do it. Unplug the wire harness plug from the switch before doing this.

The power window motor is a DC motor. By reversing the polarity of the power to the motor, raising & lowering of the window is accomplished.

Measuring voltage at the connector for window switch is easiest as you do not have to pull the door panel off. Pop out the window switch (pry up on the front end) and the connector is easily accessed.

The left front window switch has 2 connectors on it and the wires that go to the motor are in the big connector. Those pin numbers and wire colors are:

pin 1 - solid green
pin 2 - solid blue

pin 1 is in a corner of the connector and pin 2 is (of course) right next to it.

In operation:

window up - pin 1 (green wire) is 12 volts and pin 2 is ground

window down - pin 2 (blue wire) is 12 volts and pin 1 is ground

**************

For future readers of this post, the above only applies to the 2000 and 2001 model years. 2002 models are different and 2003 models are different from the 2002. The pin numbers and wire colors are different.

Chris Gregg

iTrader: (59)

Yeah, I just always took a 12v or less power drill battery and ran a couple wires to the connector to get the window up or down (depending on what I was doing). As suggested, test the switch side of the connector for voltage when the button is pressed. But, if you're not hearing the motor even trying to roll it up, it is likely the switch. Assuming the master is working for the other windows. If its not, could be a fuse.

defiance

iTrader: (1)

Always guys we got the window up ! Thank you all for your assistance ! Got it right on the first try by using a long wire, connecting it safely to the battery then inserting the raw wires into the pins Dennis suggested. Motor rolled up the window no problem !

Looks like I am in the market now for a good Master switch, as my front driver side is kaput.
However the rest work with no issues... to the classifieds and junkyards I go

Kjizzle

I'm having the same problem on my 03 maxima but must have shorted something out when trying it, wasn't sure of which wires in the connector were up and down and what went to what. But now the interior dome lights don't work and the shift lock is locked. Having to use small flat head for now..passenger window went down but dosent work going up I can hear the switch and motor clicking when I press down on passenger side. Driver side switch won't make it go up or down as well as the door lock button on either side.... passenger side switch illuminates when pressed down only. Won't light up unless it's pressed. That confused me because I thought it was suppose to be on when lights were on.

The_Fixer

iTrader: (1)

You blew out your bcm

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Do the step lamps (in the door panels) work? They get power from the same place as the dome lamp, which is the SECU.

Check several fuses:
10 amp fuse # 60. It is under the hood by the battery, the cover label is "TAIL LAMP".
15 amp fuse # 2. In the dashboard fuses, top row, 2nd from left end.
10 amp fuse # 12. In the dashboard fuses, middle row, 2nd from left end.
10 amp fuse # 13. In the dashboard fuses, middle row, 1st on the left end.
10 amp fuse # 19. In the dashboard fuses, middle row, 2nd from right end

maxipriest777

I have a 2003 Nissan Maxima. Love this vehicle.
Anyways.

My problem is, the front Window switches, suddenly, stopped working.
Also. The drivers side, master control switch, can put the rear windows down just fine. But. Can't put them back up. The rear windows have to be put up,
by the individual window switch, respectively. Sunroof works fine, everything else works fine.

This just started.

So.. I just want to know how to bypass the window switches, and, place my drivers front window in the full up position.


I tried perusing the Power Window section of the EL service manual.
But. The wiring diagrams, didn't make any sense to me.

In the wiring harness diagram, it looked like, the Black/White wire
was responsible for the window up/down control.

I ran a wire from the battery terminal to the B/W wire in the harness, but,
nothing happened.

Can someone please tell me, if, I'm on the right track, or,
better yet. Tell me how to get my drivers side window up.

Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance.

Kjizzle

I tried the bypass as well, tried to read the diagram but couldn't understand it. I bought 2 switches for it but my master switch for the 03 always shows up 3 different looking switches. So I bought one style and hooked it up and it was tested OEM. And it didn't work period, put the one that's in the car back in and back to the same problem. Everything works except the passenger window and the door lock, same for passenger side button for new switch as well still didn't do anything. Guess I'll keep tryin to buy the different style switches until it fixes the problem

maxipriest777

Has anyone on this forum, had, any luck purchasing switches from Switch Doctor.


They have a listing on eBay, and, Amazon.
New Nissan Maxima, 2000 - 2003 Drivers master switches, $37.50, with shipping included.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390947915533?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I don't see how they can advertise all those years, inclusively, for the switches that they sell.

Because. The wiring diagram, is different, between 2000-2001, and, 2002 is different, from 2003.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

maxipriest777 -

The black/white wire is not it as you found out. Remove the switch from the door panel - you don't have to remove the door panel itself. Unplug the big connector from the switch.

You will need 2 jumper wires, one with 12 volts and the other with ground. See the photo below. In the one corner (pin 8) is a solid blue wire. Count over 3 more wires wire to a solid green wire (pin 11). These 2 wires go directly to the motor.

The window motor is a dc motor. This means that if you connect the jumper wires one way, the window will go up. Connect the jumper wire the other way and the window goes down. Connect the jumper wires to the blue and green wires. If the window doesn't go up, then connect the jumper wires the other way.


Kjizzle -

One thing you need to know is that each year of the 5th gen Maxima uses a different master window switch. They can be identified by the color of the bottom of the switch, each year is different. Look at your original switch and match that color. See the photo I posted for maxipriest777, it is a 2003 switch.

If you are buying an aftermarket replacement switch from the local parts store, I don't know if they follow the color code.

If you are buying used switches off of ebay and the seller says it fits more than one year, the guy doesn't know what he is talking about.

maxipriest777

Hey DennisMik,
Thanks for removing the clouds. I can actually see light, at the end of the tunnel.
Again. How is it. That OEM's state that one Master Switch, will work, for all Maxima 5th gen. years.


But. Thanks again. Big time.

Kjizzle

I wish I could find out which switch mine originally comes with when I bought the car it had this switch in it that dosent work. So not sure if it's the right one. Got another switch at junk yard to see if t worked. Didn't make a difference since I found out it could be the master switch on driver side so I got one style of switch and it didn't work st all so just ordered the style that was already in the car and going to see if that works. I traced the wiring to see if there's any shorts and all the wires are in tact and factory nothing tampered with. All fuses are good. Just hope it's not the BCM, also having problems with a motor mount popping when I floor it to pass someone then once over drive kicks in the car exhaust gets loud and smells like fumes in the car all the time. And is throwing a cat /O2 code. Would I need to replace both cats or just one? They're expensive!

maxipriest777

Quick update.
I tried bypassing the drivers side window switch, by supplying 12v to to the
solid blue wire, and, ground to the green wire.

Nothing happened. No sound from the motor, nothing.
I even attempted to reverse the wiring, 12v to green wire, ground to blue wire. Same result. No sound from the motors. Nothing.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If the motor didn't move and you are certain that you were making good connections with the jumper wires, it sounds like the motor has died. I suppose it is possible that the wire between the switch and the motor could somehow be bad, but that is pretty unlikely.

One thing I was surprised to learn is that the motor itself is whisper quiet. It is the regulator mechanism that makes the noise. So if there was any other sounds/noise going on, you might not hear the motor.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The thing that makes the switch different for each year of the 5th gen is that Nissan played musical chairs with the wires in the connectors. Other than messing with our heads, there is no valid reason to do that. As an example, the 2003 switch has the motor wires on pins 8 & 11. On a 2002, the pins are 2 and 3. On a 2001, the pins are 1 & 2. So there is no way that one switch fits all.

Many of the people on ebay will sell anything they can get their hands on. They have no knowledge of the product they are selling and know nothing about what that product goes into. A boatload of garbage from China comes in and they sell it. Because the cars look alike, they assume that there are no differences in the parts used in the different years.

I'm assuming you are getting code P0420 or P0430. P0420 is for bank one pre-cat and P0430 is for bank 2 pre-cat. Since they are separate units, you don't have to replace them both at the same time if you don't want to. What many people have done is get rid of the pre-cats. The bank 1 pre-cat is built into the exhaust y-pipe and is the more difficult one to deal with and the most expensive. The bank 2 pre cat is a big canister between the exhaust manifold and the y-pipe.

To eliminate them, the term used is to "gut them". That means take the pre-cat off the car, stick rods into the pre-cat and break up the filtering material so it all comes out. Or you can buy a y-pipe that doesn't have a pre-cat built into it. The bank 2 pre-cat is not part of the y-pipe and is easy to gut.

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Just buy a new master console and call it the day.....

CMax03

iTrader: (3)

Or take a chance in the junkyard....

maxipriest777

Thanks. But. I've established that the two front windows motors are dead.
So. Before purchasing new switches, I have to install two new motors.

Thanks.

maxipriest777

Update on the window switch problem.
I started probing around with a test light.

Based on the information, that DennisMik game me.
When I press the drivers' side window down switch, I get power, to both the
blue wire at position 8, and, the green wire, at position 11.

I'm pretty sure, that isn't supposed to happen.
Also, when pulling up, on the drivers' side switch, there is no power, to either,
the blue wire, at the 8 position on the harness, or, the green wire at position 11.


Can anyone tell me, what these symptoms, may be problematic of ??


Thanks.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

This is probably because you are connecting the test light to chassis ground. That is not the correct way to do it. This is because the motor does not use chassis ground. Similar to the jumper wire process, you have to measure the voltage by connecting your probe leads between pins 8 & 11. This is also a case where you cannot use a test light as they cannot tell you polarity, unless you have a polarized led type.

I don't have an explanation for this. It could be the same as the above or it could be that you don't have the correct switch.

Have you considered going to a junkyard and getting a switch from a 2003 Maxima or Infiniti i35?

maxipriest777

Happy New Year.

Thanks DennisMik.
Damn.
I feel like a stooge.


Ok. Then. If you could. Tell me what tools, I need to buy, in order to effectively trouble shoot, diagnose, and, solve my problem.

I was looking at a Innova 3320 Multimeter.
Would that work ??

Thanks in advance.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

That meter should be fine. A digital display meter is great because you don't have to worry about connecting it to reverse polarity. If you put the positive meter lead on the negative terminal of the battery and the negative meter lead on the positive terminal of the battery, it displays a minus symbol.

Another nice feature of that meter is that it is auto ranging. This means that you don't have to know what the voltage is and pre-set an appropriate range.

So connect the meter leads to the window switch wires. You don't have to worry about reversing the connections, just look for a 12 volt reading or a minus 12 volt reading when you are pressing the window switch up and down.

Wheresmywagon?

Hi, I hate to necro a thread guys, but this one really provided some good info. Gawd I love this site. So, I have a 2003 maxima, and I've been trying to find a driver door window switch. It's strange, the driver's window will sometimes engage the auto-down on it's own and then get stuck like that. I can always get it back up...eventually...but one day it might not.

I took a chance on the part from a junkyard 2000 or '01...before doing proper research, lol. The harnesses fit, but now I know that the wiring is different. And I'd really rather not get into rewiring the harness if I don't have to.

So my question is: does anyone know if a switch from a 6th gen will have the same pin configuration for the wire harness? Or did they change too? I've found some sites selling it saying it will work on '03 to '12. It LOOKS the same, with the larger window lock button.

Powerslayer

I'm not sure about 6th gen switches fitting in the 03. I have an 03 and an 02 max. Both are solid cars so when I had these issues with my 03, I had:

-No power door locks from any switch, but the fob worked as normal
-No passenger window control from either the driver or passenger switch, but all other windows worked as normal off driver and rear switches.
-Sunroof opened itself and would close only 5% of the time.

I ordered 4 passenger switches off ebay over a year trying to fix the problem and 1 master switch. None of these fixed the problem and I didn't want to keep assuming the switches I had gotten were faulty because they're expensive.

I noticed recently that a seller on Amazon began production and started to sell MASTER switches (nobody made aftermarket master switches that I could find) so when I discovered this, I had absolutely no problem being the first person to try it out at the cheap $40 price. It solved the passenger window issue and the power door locks. My sunroof was fixed by removing the panel and cleaning the 15 year old dielectric grease out, cleaning/bending the contacts, and adding new grease.

Below is the link to the switch that I ordered for my 03 max. No complaints with it at all and I've had it for 3 months. I'm sure it will fix your problem! And yeah, this forum has saved my *** many times, I'm so glad it exists!!



Edit: The only thing that isn't great about the switch above is the illumination is orange in mine instead of the green that is OEM. Doesn't bother me as much as having no window and door locks though so I got over it quick. That's a very small trade off I am fine with.

Chase

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

That can be changed easily enough, you know I did white/blue in mine to match. I HATE the stock green.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Wow! a voice from the past. What are you driving these days?

maxiiiboy

I have the same problem, but I don't know how to remove the panel.
How did you do it ?
Thanks !