5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

01 Overheating. both hoses Hot n Hard

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Old 05-21-2013, 12:21 AM
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01 Overheating. both hoses Hot n Hard

Flushed system twice keeps on actin up this 5th gen has been notthin but problems since day 1 btw definitely not built like a 4th Gen! Junk!!!


anyways 5months ago she got brand new radiator from rockauto new Radiator Fan assembly Ebay OEM. Thermostat n upper lower hoses from autozone thought my overheating issues were delt with well here they come back past week. i keep mysteriously loosing coolant but no leaks. no water in oil. its always low!!!!!


well usually overheats idling heater won't even work till i rev above 1200rpm then heater gets hot. well last night on freeway it kept overheating left n right radiator Full hoses ROCK Hard and hot upper n lower both fans on full blast.



where's my issues?? I'm lost n ready to sell this junk.
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Old 05-21-2013, 02:03 AM
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Heat control valve? Check other hose doobicky on block looks loke thermostat also
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:17 AM
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If your losing coolant and no signs of a visible leak but the heater hoses are rock hard then i'm will to bet your have a blown head gasket and coolant is leaking into the cylinder.

Also depending on where the head gasket is cracked you'll never see coolant in the oil and also depending on how much is leaking you might not ever see any smoke coming out of the exhaust.

It's really easy to check if you have a blown head gasket though.

You can use a radiator coolant tester that you can buy or rent from autozone and it test for hydrocarbons in the coolant (exhaust gases) and is a sure fire way to test. or a simple method is to start the car with the radiator cap off and see if your getting a constant stream of bubbles coming to the top.

If your losing coolant and its not leaking then thats really the only place it can go and would also explain all your symptoms.


Last edited by a33nismo; 05-21-2013 at 06:20 AM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 08:51 AM
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yeah, head gasket was my first thought as well. Leaking bore to coolant but not blown enough or in the right place to leak coolant to oil could for sure cause this.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:11 AM
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If it's not conclusively the head gasket, I would replace the thermostat with OEM and replace the water pump if it hasn't been replaced already.
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Old 05-21-2013, 09:39 AM
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on what DW said

Go OEM for the thermostat, make sure it's bled properly (on an incline) too
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:32 AM
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Autozone thermostat? No No
No Heat at idle? Heat at high RPMs? You have air in the system...
Hose hot and hard? Air in the sustem.

You do know that the car has two thermostats correct? Which one did you replace?
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:40 AM
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Originally Posted by L_U_D_I_AMaxima
Autozone thermostat? No No
No Heat at idle? Heat at high RPMs? You have air in the system...
Hose hot and hard? Air in the sustem.

You do know that the car has two thermostats correct? Which one did you replace?
second one is the Heat Control valve doohicky
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:44 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
second one is the Heat Control valve doohicky
are you talking about the water control valve?
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:47 AM
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heat control valve doohicky, that's the technical term.
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Old 05-21-2013, 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
heat control valve doohicky, that's the technical term.
nope... according to the Nissan FSM its called a water control valve
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by L_U_D_I_AMaxima

are you talking about the water control valve?
Yup dats dat der da doohicky!
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:45 PM
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Well I know for a fact it may be a good idea to change your rock hard hoses too.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:51 PM
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Originally Posted by L_U_D_I_AMaxima
nope... according to the Nissan FSM its called a water control valve

I was given the impression....somewhere here on the org that the heater core is always on.....so there wouldn't be any water control valve. Instead there's a flap in the dash to control whether the heat comes into the cabin or not.
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Old 05-21-2013, 12:52 PM
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The aftermarket thermostat could be an issue but there's still the big problem of him losing coolant all the time with no external leak.

It does sounds like he has air in the system but that probably from the exhaust gases in the coolant.

Hopefully will know more when the OP chimes back in with some more info.

Last edited by a33nismo; 05-21-2013 at 12:55 PM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:00 PM
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if youre checking under the hood and finding rock hard hoses, you should get out of the mens locker room and go look under the hood of your car.














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Old 05-21-2013, 01:05 PM
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by Amerikaner83
someone had to say it Sally. It never should have taken 16 posts
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:30 PM
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Originally Posted by Gemner
someone had to say it Sally. It never should have taken 16 posts
Oh I know...and I'm not disagreeing with you there bud just search some of OPs other threads
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by dwapenyi
I was given the impression....somewhere here on the org that the heater core is always on.....so there wouldn't be any water control valve. Instead there's a flap in the dash to control whether the heat comes into the cabin or not.
the water control valve is actually located between the 2 cylinder heads... the heater control valve is actually an actuator that opens and closes every time you change the temperature on the dashboard... that valve has nothing to do with you overheating... it simply allows the flow of hot coolant in the heater core when you max out the heat on the dash...
but the key here is that you mentioned the heat comes on when you rev the engine... you have an air pocket in there... bleed the system the correct way

Last edited by L_U_D_I_AMaxima; 05-21-2013 at 01:36 PM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 01:35 PM
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Hoses are new just hard as in full of pressure! today i drove her 18miles overheating cause i don't beleave its Hot. bottom hose is cool upper hose is hot n normal radiator full not loosing any.

ac gets warm compressor kicks off when overheats but never actually over heats? i got tires of junk car jus kept driving it on fwy while overheating. i turn heater on full n temp goes down fastly to normal. makes no since.

Its never goes to H it goes to 2nd line right undet it n stays like its still normal but still too hot.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-22-2013 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:36 PM
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LC.pdf in the FSM, system check starts on LC-12. Report back.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:42 PM
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I know whats wrong now bro.!!!!!!
Heres your final fix!

1. Sell your car because your maintance skills and listening skills are laking
2. Buy tricycle
3. Watch new owner bleed air out of system for 30-45 minutes with rad cap off and heater in full and enjoy his new ride as he rides past you.
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Old 05-21-2013, 04:48 PM
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There is no water valve on the heater core. Nissan eliminated it when they introduced the 4th gen. Cabin temperature is accomplished by how much air flows or doesn't flow throught the heater core. This is accomplished by the air mix door.

The 2000 and 2001 have an experiment on them called the water control valve. Don't know what it is supposed to accomplish but Nissan stopped wasting their money on it after 2 years.

I'm concerned by the fact that you don't get any heat unless you rev the engine to 1200 rpm. That sure sounds like air in the system as L U D I AMaxima said. Mysterious loss of coolant could be a head gasket. Get a pressure check done.



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Old 05-21-2013, 04:55 PM
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Could also be filling up overflow as overheating happens and running out the tube.
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Old 05-21-2013, 06:43 PM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
Could also be filling up overflow as overheating happens and running out the tube.

That's where it went them few times because it was completely full and burnt hole in top or corodded overflow! The heater works at idle! only somtimes when looses coolant it don't i guess!

I bled it for 20mins earlier no more bubles came out took for ever.

Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-22-2013 at 01:08 PM.
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Old 05-21-2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
Its never goes to H it goes to 2nd line right undet it n stays like its still normal but still too hot.
Guess what buddy ITS YOUR AFTERMARKET THERMOSTAT!! happened to me. Read up on aftermarket thermostats someone put me on to this and they were right. The dead give away you said was your bottom hose is cool and ur top hose is hot. I bet u paid alot for that thermostat from autozone, for some reason autozone sells the thermostat for $65 and i got mine from the dealer for $17. as soon as the fans kicked on the temp would rise and My fans were on full blast all the time and temp never went down enough. Read up on those topics.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:11 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
I bled it for 20mins earlier no more bubles came out took for ever.
normal engine temperature is reached when the cooling fans cycle on and off at least twice... thats what the service manual says.. it takes time to bleed a coolant system... if you think the maxima is hard then never buy an Audi... it took me close to 2 hours to bleed the coolant system on my a4 1.8t... the maxima engine is very simply build and its a pleasure to work on with a few small exceptions

Originally Posted by DjHackStyle
Guess what buddy ITS YOUR AFTERMARKET THERMOSTAT!! happened to me. Read up on aftermarket thermostats someone put me on to this and they were right. The dead give away you said was your bottom hose is cool and ur top hose is hot. I bet u paid alot for that thermostat from autozone, for some reason autozone sells the thermostat for $65 and i got mine from the dealer for $17. as soon as the fans kicked on the temp would rise and My fans were on full blast all the time and temp never went down enough. Read up on those topics.
Agree with him 1,000,000% aftermarket thermostats are just junk... which is the reason why I had to help a friend of mine change the head gaskets on his 2000 Xterra... and guess what.... he did use an autozone thermostat...

Last edited by NmexMAX; 05-22-2013 at 01:07 PM.
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Old 05-22-2013, 12:22 PM
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Originally Posted by TravisCadello
Thermostat from autozone

Problem here. Get OEM. Try again.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:07 PM
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I had a Feeling and i spent 22.99 for Thermostat not 65 lol. Ill buy One From dealer n Try again. n one time both hoses were burnin Hot.
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Old 05-22-2013, 07:14 PM
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Get the low temp thermostat from a 350z
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Old 05-22-2013, 11:38 PM
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Originally Posted by L_U_D_I_AMaxima
Autozone thermostat? No No
No Heat at idle? Heat at high RPMs? You have air in the system...
Hose hot and hard? Air in the sustem.

You do know that the car has two thermostats correct? Which one did you replace?
^^ What I was about to say, what he was saying.^^
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Old 05-23-2013, 02:24 AM
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Originally Posted by cjandura
Get the low temp thermostat from a 350z
What year Z?
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:27 AM
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get the t-stat for YOUR CAR.

Mixing tstats is not a good idea, the only time you ever want to do that is because race car. Leave it stock.
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Old 05-23-2013, 07:57 AM
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Originally Posted by TunerMaxima3000
get the t-stat for YOUR CAR.

Mixing tstats is not a good idea, the only time you ever want to do that is because race car. Leave it stock.
Lolz he wants to create more problems b4 fixing the current problem.
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Old 05-24-2013, 11:58 PM
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Ok. Swapped Thermostats bled for 25mins first 5mins was weird filled up while idleing and was makin funny birp noise and upper hose was pulsating and throbing guess cause so much air but took for ever to fill was thinking exhaust gasses was gettin in cooling system!...


Finnally filled n small bubbles came out for 15 mins after finally cleared put cap on it let it build presure entire time idleing bout 30mins i had heater on full!! never felt heat in car till i revved the engine up!!! wtf???



and still overheating! I'm confused.
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:30 AM
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There is air in the heater core, and you might have a bad ect sensor. Time to check with an infrared gun And make sure it's reading right
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Old 05-25-2013, 07:35 AM
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Jack up front or use ramps and bleed the system.rev engine every 10 minutes until there are NO bubbles at all heater on full blast.
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Old 05-25-2013, 10:40 AM
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If the system is bleed and the ect us reading right then you need to have it inspected for a headgasket failure
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Old 05-25-2013, 02:41 PM
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Yea ill ramp front up in bleed again.


question is thought prestone was good but after reading i need oem or Honda blue or toyota red! Which do u guys perfer! and ect may be bad cause i don't think it really is overheating. but is running hotter then it should! Never smokes or overboils when it says its runnin hot!
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