5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003) Learn more about the 5th Generation Maxima, including the VQ30DE-K and VQ35DE engines.

confused about 2000 model...

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Old 12-21-2012, 01:22 AM
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confused about 2000 model...

first... I navigated through several stickies trying to not repeat questions. I looked thru "looking to buy", and the "common problems/data". Went through several pages.

lots of talk about 3.5 motors, oil consumption.

I am looking at a 2000 model with 3.0 and fairly low mileage (about 70K miles), and I know that engine has been very bullet proof. I'm not looking for the extra horses.

really wondering what has been done different in the 2000 model year vs. Gen4, and what's different in '01. Looks like '02 & up was the 3.5.

I didn't see a lot of "stay away" , or "beware of" posts for the 2000 year. I saw stuff about wheel bearings. So did i miss anything major?

I am still a smidge paranoid based on 2 auto trannies I replaced in my 1994 Maxima within 120K miles (otherwise loved that car). About a month ago i had a deal on a '96 with 40K miles, but seller changed his mind after we shook hands and he took my deposit (he refunded it, just changed his mind after his wife gave him heck).

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Old 12-21-2012, 07:46 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
first... I navigated through several stickies trying to not repeat questions. I looked thru "looking to buy", and the "common problems/data". Went through several pages.

lots of talk about 3.5 motors, oil consumption.

I am looking at a 2000 model with 3.0 and fairly low mileage (about 70K miles), and I know that engine has been very bullet proof. I'm not looking for the extra horses.

really wondering what has been done different in the 2000 model year vs. Gen4, and what's different in '01. Looks like '02 & up was the 3.5.

I didn't see a lot of "stay away" , or "beware of" posts for the 2000 year. I saw stuff about wheel bearings. So did i miss anything major?

I am still a smidge paranoid based on 2 auto trannies I replaced in my 1994 Maxima within 120K miles (otherwise loved that car). About a month ago i had a deal on a '96 with 40K miles, but seller changed his mind after we shook hands and he took my deposit (he refunded it, just changed his mind after his wife gave him heck).
allright, I'll break it down for you:

2000 and 2001 had the 3.0 with variable intake, the 4th gen did not. 99 model year was the first to have the NATS system...we guinea-pigged it for you 5th genners. You're welcome. NATS acts up sometimes in 2000 and 2001 models, but mainly 99 and 2000.

The trannies in your 94 were weak, couldn't hold the torque of the motor. The autos in the 4th gen and 5th gen are fine (commonly upwardsd of 200K on original trannies)...even better than the manuals for those years (except for the 6 speed in the 5.5gen )

Ignition coils (coil packs) are a relatively common issue for 2000 as well. If you get a misfire code and coils, save yourself the hassle and get OEM coils. NO aftermarket ones.

That's about it!
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:06 AM
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And 2000 model year 3.0's have an EGR, where a 2001 does not. I personally hate EGR valves...
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:07 AM
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^^ good point. I forgot about the EGR

All 2001's AE's are Cali-spec emissions, but you can get 2000 and other 2001 cars with FED emissions packages. FED emissions is better if you want to mod the exhaust or w/e.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:12 AM
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Originally Posted by Galactica
And 2000 model year 3.0's have an EGR, where a 2001 does not. I personally hate EGR valves...
EGR valve? I have a 2005 Ford 6.0L diesel....ask me how much I hate their EGR system and the catastrophic, expensive head gasket failures that follow.

I think on gas vehicle it's a lot different. Interesting a later model year would eliminate egr, cuz i thought it was all about emissions.

how pricey are coil packs? is there a noticeable performance issue when they go, or just a CEL? Can they be replaced one at a time, or only as a set?

what is NATS?

thanks for the replies guys!!
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:15 AM
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Yup. It's really a conundrum for me right now, because I'm trying to figure out how long I actually want to keep the Maxima to determine how much moola I want to put into making more power out of it. Do I drop the 900 bucks for some Cattman Cali-spec headers/Y-pipe or not? If I do, then I should necessarily keep the car for a while and eventually start looking for a 6-speed HLSD to swap out my 5-spd when my ISB finally gives out....If I do that, then I'll be wanting to supercharge the bugger because right now slow.....and I need fast....
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:16 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
EGR valve? I have a 2005 Ford 6.0L diesel....ask me how much I hate their EGR system and the catastrophic, expensive head gasket failures that follow.

I think on gas vehicle it's a lot different. Interesting a later model year would eliminate egr, cuz i thought it was all about emissions.

how pricey are coil packs? is there a noticeable performance issue when they go, or just a CEL? Can they be replaced one at a time, or only as a set?

what is NATS?

thanks for the replies guys!!
Coils vary in price depending where you get them. $80-$120 is about normal. Go OEM as already mentioned. You'll know you have a coil problem because you will feel the stuttering of the misfire. They do often come with a code but not all the time. I had a misfire for months before the code finally showed up to tell me which one it was.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:18 AM
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hmmm, torque...good call... I hammered gas pedal to pass a semi and that is when tranny pooched on my 94.

funny, i read other topics on these forums where guys seemed to say the 3rd gens were the tightest, best Maximas.... but not if auto trannies had issues (IMHO).

so overall is the 2000 model decent?

amerikaner... GO HAWKS!! (I have seasons tix! )
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:19 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
EGR valve? I have a 2005 Ford 6.0L diesel....ask me how much I hate their EGR system and the catastrophic, expensive head gasket failures that follow.

I think on gas vehicle it's a lot different. Interesting a later model year would eliminate egr, cuz i thought it was all about emissions.

how pricey are coil packs? is there a noticeable performance issue when they go, or just a CEL? Can they be replaced one at a time, or only as a set?

what is NATS?

thanks for the replies guys!!
Oh Gawd man you need to get RID of that 6.0L!! Go back 2 years and buy an early 03 7.3L! I have a 91 7.3L IDI crew cab 4X4 with a Banks Sidewinder turbo, 4" exhaust, and the lariat package. Love that truck. It has 250K and runs like a top! It's also the last year of the kingpin Dana 60 front.
OAN, I think the 2002-up 3.5's went back to an EGR system. As far as coils go, ONLY b uy Nissan OEM coils or you WILL have problems. You can replace them 1 at a time, and I think they're close to 80 or 90 bucks each. The rear 3 coils I heard are a bish because the intake manifold is in the way...
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:22 AM
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so at least when it throws code, it will tell you which one is the problem?
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
so at least when it throws code, it will tell you which one is the problem?
Not always. You might get a code telling you one cylinder is misfiring but usually you'll get a random misfire and have to figure out which one it is on your own.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:30 AM
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Youll know when you need a new coil because your car idles very rough. when I bought my car back in june of this year, it had 88000 miles on it. It idled rough and that is how I found this site, trying to solve the problem. I have a 2000 and so far i've had to change the starter, 2 ignition coils, and last night I changed out the radiator fans. So far thats about $300 in repairs in 6 months, so not bad I guess. I love my 2000, its powerful, durable, and doesnt leak a drop of oil. But dont let my biased opinion affect your final decision.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:30 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
so at least when it throws code, it will tell you which one is the problem?
Not all the time...it may tell you the cylinder, but can also give you a general misfire code. I had the general misfire code recently and bought one front and one rear ignition coil. Swapped them in until the code went away.

I got lucky...it went away on the first cylinder I swapped.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Rcrootbeer
Youll know when you need a new coil because your car idles very rough. when I bought my car back in june of this year, it has 88000 miles on it. It idled rough and that is how I found this site, trying to solve the problem. I have a 2000 and so far i've had to change the starter, 2 ignition coils, and last night I changed out the radiator fans. So far thats about $300 in repairs in 6 months, so not bad I guess. I love my 2000, its powerful, durable, and doesnt leak a drop of oil. But dont let my biased opinion affect your final decision.
I don't know about always idling rough...my last ignition coil problem I have a barely misifring which wouldn't affect the idle too much. I only saw it badly misfire when I was at WOT.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:33 AM
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Another item that is relatively common are valve cover leaks. The VC gaskets are pretty easy to change out though.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:33 AM
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Im certainly not an expert, so listen to these gentlemen before me. I only know from my experience, which was a rough idle. I then ran the codes and replaced coil #2 and #6.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
amerikaner... GO HAWKS!! (I have seasons tix! )
Amen brother! Coming down for the game on Sunday, I take it?

You asked about NATS earlier...that's the Nissan factory security system. There's a transponder in the keys and a receiver in the ignition module of the steering wheel. The car won't start if both aren't present. The issue is that sometimes, mainly due to age of the components, the portion in the key decides to forget its code. When it does this, your car thinks it's being stolen so it will not start. IMMOBILIZED. The only quick remedy is a pricy one...take car to dealer (or a very competent locksmith who knows Nissans and has a consult scan tool) and pay out the a$$ for a reprogramming.

I had a 97 Pontiac Grand Am that would freak out on me, thinking it was stolen (also a key-ignition system miscommunication with teh ones and the zeroes), but that fix was much easier. Keep key in ON position for 10 mins and you're good again. That Grand Am needed it pretty often though...mainly when i twas cold she acted up on me.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:42 AM
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good info foodmanry...that'd be a good way to eliminate. I guess you have a 1 in 3 chance on each bank. Coils are easy to get to & swap?

galactica: I had a '99 7.3 and regret selling it. It needed tranny & other stuff. should have done it. you can get a bullet proof, updated tranny rebuild for $2500-3500 on the 4R100.

my son has '93 IDI. Was an F250...he just swapped out front & rear axles...got a dana 60 kingpin from an '89, plus converting his auto tranny to a 5 speed...only cuz rear axle wouldn't mate up to his auto-tranny sensor (have a nice, rebuilt, shift-kitted E40D for sale..sitting in my garage...).

on my 6.0 I have 4" exh., EGR delete, ARP studs, coolant filtration, and i just replaced 2nd head gasket last week...only 100K miles. I was running Edge Platinum on levels 1, 2 & 3 (= 40, 60, 80 HP). Pretty minor in the world of tuning.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
good info foodmanry...that'd be a good way to eliminate. I guess you have a 1 in 3 chance on each bank. Coils are easy to get to & swap?
Yes...quite easy. You can do a full ignition coil and spark plug change in less than an hour.

One key difference between the 5th gen (2k, 2k1) and 5.5 gen (2k2, 2k3) are accessibility of the rear plugs and coils. On the 5.5 gen you have to remove the intake manifold to get to the rear plugs and coils. Lame...

In regards to the EGR valve....you really won't have an issue with the valve itself, just the EGR tube may plug up on you. It is accessible and can be changed...just a PITA.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:46 AM
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if you have a spare, coded key, will this avoid NATS issue, or is it a problem with receiver?

my brother has SF game.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:50 AM
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I presently have a 93 lexus that will be replaced if I can get the 2000 Max. I also have a 2001 Camry (only 24,500 miles!!). But Toyota/Lexus V6 is a royal PITA to change rear plugs, and especially the VC gaskets, and they are very prone to leaking and oil drips on exhaust and stinks out cabin worse than a raunchy fart in an elevator.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
good info foodmanry...that'd be a good way to eliminate. I guess you have a 1 in 3 chance on each bank. Coils are easy to get to & swap?

galactica: I had a '99 7.3 and regret selling it. It needed tranny & other stuff. should have done it. you can get a bullet proof, updated tranny rebuild for $2500-3500 on the 4R100.

my son has '93 IDI. Was an F250...he just swapped out front & rear axles...got a dana 60 kingpin from an '89, plus converting his auto tranny to a 5 speed...only cuz rear axle wouldn't mate up to his auto-tranny sensor (have a nice, rebuilt, shift-kitted E40D for sale..sitting in my garage...).

on my 6.0 I have 4" exh., EGR delete, ARP studs, coolant filtration, and i just replaced 2nd head gasket last week...only 100K miles. I was running Edge Platinum on levels 1, 2 & 3 (= 40, 60, 80 HP). Pretty minor in the world of tuning.
My E4OD is rebuilt with 97 PSD gears, steel planetaries, a billet TC, and shift kit. I have 5 gauges running now, 4 on the pillar and one down by the OD off switch, EGT, boost, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, and Trans Temp. I also added 2 10K trans coolers because we both know that heat is the death of auto transmissions...
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
if you have a spare, coded key, will this avoid NATS issue, or is it a problem with receiver?

my brother has SF game.
it's the receiver module that needs the reset, and the keys get reprogrammed as a result, matched to the code of the new receiver. Usually if you have more than one key, if it's immobile it's immobile, don't matter which key you've got.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:55 AM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
I presently have a 93 lexus that will be replaced if I can get the 2000 Max. I also have a 2001 Camry (only 24,500 miles!!). But Toyota/Lexus V6 is a royal PITA to change rear plugs, and especially the VC gaskets, and they are very prone to leaking and oil drips on exhaust and stinks out cabin worse than a raunchy fart in an elevator.
Yeah but that 1MZ engine is one buttery smooth operator! My in-laws had an 01 ES300 with over 150K that ran like new and they only ever changed the oil! Got rid of it because a box truck slammed them. I convinced them to buy an 05 G35 with Premium package 2. It's so choice.
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:57 AM
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Originally Posted by Galactica
My E4OD is rebuilt with 97 PSD gears, steel planetaries, a billet TC, and shift kit. I have 5 gauges running now, 4 on the pillar and one down by the OD off switch, EGT, boost, Oil Pressure, Water Temp, and Trans Temp. I also added 2 10K trans coolers because we both know that heat is the death of auto transmissions...
if you ever want to get rid of all your gauges...my son is looking for all that stuff....
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Old 12-21-2012, 08:59 AM
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My pillar:

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Old 12-21-2012, 02:30 PM
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Another couple of things that I am surprised no one mentioned yet: IACV/ECM issues and MAFS. MAF is easy to fix but IACV if not detected in time will burn out the ECM.
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Old 12-21-2012, 02:33 PM
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what is IACV ? Is IACV issue hard to detect (would I get early CEL?).
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Old 12-21-2012, 04:27 PM
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Originally Posted by canucklehead
what is IACV ? Is IACV issue hard to detect (would I get early CEL?).
simply explained thats the idle control valve on the bottom of the TB (throttle body) mine lasted about 180K the problem with those is that coolant runs inside the valve and once the seal breaks it will damage the valve... you will see idle jumping between 800-1900 rpms really quick if you shut the car off quickly you might get lucky and safe the ecu, if not it will burn a chip on the ecu and then you have to either replace the ecu or get it fixed...
other than the IVAC and the coils the 3.0 is pretty much solid engine... mine has almost 200K no oil burning, no rattles no shakes... and I am still running the oem clutch after 200K... if the one that you found had less than 100K I would say jump on it before someone else does... other than that its just regular maintenance brakes, struts, suspension parts are parts that fail on any car... and the lower radiator support problem is something that the 4th ad 5th gen share... but its fixable, I just fixed mine and its not really a big deal if you have proper tools... keep in mind that some of the auto trannies tend to have problems with the valves but its an easy fix as well...
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Old 12-23-2012, 04:21 PM
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Originally Posted by L_U_D_I_AMaxima
...the problem with those is that coolant runs inside the valve and once the seal breaks it will damage the valve... you will see idle jumping between 800-1900 rpms really quick if you shut the car off quickly you might get lucky and safe the ecu, if not it will burn a chip on the ecu and then you have to either replace the ecu or get it fixed...
Can we do a bypass so that coolant doesn't run through the TB? That would eliminate possible IACV failure do to a broken seal.
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Old 12-23-2012, 05:12 PM
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i haven't had good luck on my maxima purchase attempts. i had a deal on a 96 with a deposit & handshake, guy changed his mind. This 2000 model I asked for VIN so I could do my checks, and also asked to come see it same day. seller said ok, never responded to me after that. he sounded like a slimey flake so maybe that was an omen.
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Old 12-23-2012, 07:02 PM
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2001 AE No EGR, No oil consumption and loving it
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Old 12-24-2012, 07:40 AM
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Originally Posted by Grand_hustle17
2001 AE No EGR, No oil consumption and loving it
Yup. Car's not fast enough, but it always starts and is a pleasure to drive. Yo Hustle! When you gonna sell me that black front AE lip???
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