BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

I had an idea for this Gizmo (now dubbed a "Cool Air Diverter") while replacing my radiator and after reading about the GAB mod and controversy of SRI vs. CAI. Bottom line VQ's like cool air and suffer from breathing the hot underhood air. While at AutoZone to get a door panel tool, I saw this cheap plastic "Mini-Scoop" (complete with aluminum mesh) that sticks on the hood with 3M tape. It looked like it'd be a good basis for my mod idea so with some AV snips, files, a drill, and approx 2hrs time. Came up with a way to divert some cool air coming through the grill up to the (OEM) intake snorkel. I'm not going to make any claims on it's effectiveness, aside from the car seems more responsive around town and seems to need less throttle cruising on the highway (all subjective butt dyno claims). The only semi-accurate data I can give is that now the car consistently will hit the rev limiter/governor at an indicated 135-MPH and 68K-RPM with OD off. I don't know how this compares performance wise, but seems pretty good for a stone stock 130K mile 4AT VQ30DE-K (w/VIAS fix) and the only other "performance" mod a (oh boy I can hear the Cattman guys dissing me now) SRS 2.5" Catback. Hey, it was cost effective, a lot of Z guys have good things to say about SRS, it's nice and quiet (looks/sounds like an HKS), and I couldn't wait for Brian to build/ship a system since the old muffler literally fell off the car dragging on the ground. FYI; No fitment/install issues or rattles (did the CMax bushing mod at install).

Here's pictures (below); As you can see the scoop doesn't block the radiator much. In the last 2 pictures you can see that it barely shows when the hood is closed (see arrows for edge detail).

Stepien

iTrader: (2)

I like it. Does it flex easily or is it quite sturdy?

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

It's quite sturdy and won't "flap in the breeze". In fact, the front of the radiator support flexes when I wiggle the scoop.

mista0406

iTrader: (22)

Not a bad idea +1 for ingenuity... When I read the thread topic I just lol

026spd

haha ya i agree with mista but its pretty nice good cheap mod if u have a quicker response

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

The only explanation I can give is that it might block heat from in front of the radiator at low speeds. The biggest improvement was on the highway where the car seems to pull a little stronger from 55k to the rev limiter/governor (not sure which) at about 68K. Before, it seemed to start running out of breath and strained up to the red line. That's with a 4AT and OD off (3rd.) OD on seems to slow it down since it doesn't let the engine rev as high.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Thanks!

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

While I realize the OEM air intake looks like a scoop, there are no forced air qualities at play. It just sucks air... it doesn't "scoop it up".

If you want to increase your air flow potential, you need a pop-charger.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Agreed, I just called my device a scoop since that's what I used for the Gizmo. Would you prefer the term "CAI Diverter" since it diverts the incoming cool air from the grill to the OEM intake snorkel?

BTW; Sorry for the abysmal condition of my engine compartment Rochester!

Rochester

iTrader: (3)

The Pezz Cold-air Diverter. Clever.

You know, I strongly suspect it doesn't do a darned thing, but I give you a nod for being creative and experimenting.

As for concerns about blocking air-flow to the radiator and A/C... I'm reminded that one of the most effective CAI setups for the Infiniti G is a long-tube design that places the access point in *front* of the radiator, with a small deflector shield so it doesn't get wet.

JAMAICANLOVRBOY

iTrader: (3)

when i saw the topic, i thought it was a non-functional scoop on the hood, but this is a good idea, it might even add a pony or two, who knows

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

You may be 100% right. As I said in my initial post to start the thread this Gizmo SEEMS to "by subjective Butt Dyno". I'm not saying anything like the GAB mod that supposedly makes more HP. Which IMHO may help but probably only sounds like it does due to increased intake noise. However, I'll share my hypothesis on why I noted improvements.

Engines like cool air; denser intake charge etc. The Gizmo diverts cooler air from in front of the radiator/condensor area upwards directly where Nissan chamfered part of the radiator support to allow airflow to the OEM snorkel. Take into account the bottom of the hood will guide that cooler air into the snorkel when the car is moving. The under hood temperature is hot, and is the biggest drawback to SRI users unless they cut holes in the fender etc. Long tube CAI users still suck air from somewhere behind the radiator. I recall "Sparks" used to remove the headlight to get by this. Have you ever felt the heat coming out the front of the grill when the fans are off? It's fairly substantial and will rise into the area the Gizmo blocks when standing still or at low speeds creating a certain amount of the dreaded heat soak. Minimizing heat soak is why the 00VI IM is plastic (as is the "Diverter") and phenolic spacers are recommended for an aluminum IM. Since plastic/phenolic are relatively poor conductors of heat. So in theory the "Cool Air Diverter" could/should make some difference.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

To ultimately prove if it makes more power you'd need a dyno and fan blowing into the grill simulating highway/FTL (Faster Than Legal) speeds.

McSteve

iTrader: (3)

There are dyno files of the GAB abundantly available. The reason the GAB was so effective is that the gain by cooler air is negated due to the decreased intake velocities of long tube set ups in the maxima. The GAB allows for much better breathing. Just because of this SRAM intakes have been proven to be the biggest power houses for the Maxima. Also phenolic spacers have the added effect of lengthening the intake runners and still make power on the 5th gen.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

I just had another thought! Unless it's too restrictive, SRI users might benefit from a similar setup using the OEM snorkel connected to the SRI filter by a length of flex hose.

BTW; I'm glad this thread has generated some interesting discussion. Thanx guys!

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Maybe the "Cool Air Diverter" setup and GAB would be "Really Cool!" Excuse the pun, sorry I couldn't resist.

tcb_02_max

iTrader: (5)

Where are you consistently hitting 135 mph (and 65,000 rpm for that matter )?

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Certain infrequently traveled stretches of highway I know the police seldom patrol. I always take a drive by to check for traffic and etc. Before a "FTL" (Faster Than Legal) run. If I told you more, I'd have to kill you!

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

i thought i was gonna see a scoop on ya roof lol

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

I just read a bunch of "stuff" on the GAB mod. Coat hanger style and Drilled holes style. From everything I saw a VQ30DE-K will only get a 1-2 HP gain, with a loss of low end torque. Not good with an AT car! The VQ35 guys claim to get more. Which comes back to what others have said about the OEM air-box not being too bad. I'll keep my OEM air-box the way it is and let my "Cool Air Diverter direct more cool air to the OEM snorkel, thank you very much.

Nexus67

iTrader: (23)

Not a bad idea. Wouldn't it be better to shorten the 'diverter' a bit? As in, make it shorter so the scoop doesn't go that far down behind the grille (that way, you would still be diverting some air and at the same time not blocking radiator as much)

EDIT: abysmal condition of your engine compartment? lol I thought it was clean

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Forgive my "sick" sense of humor! No lie, I did put a cheap plastic AutoZone scoop on my 2001 Maxima, just not how people expected! It definitely got some people's attention so I could pass on this neat little mod for others to try. Too bad I'm only claiming it seems to improve low speed driveability and give a little more go on the highway.
Imagine if I said you'll get 50 more WHP!!!!!

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

I haven't noticed any increase in water temp so far. If you look closely at the pictures, the "Cool Air Diverter" is angled behind the grill. So there's still a lot of room for air to flow around it to the radiator. There's the big opening under the bumper as well. Plus it's more work to do that and it might not be as effective.

Nexus67

iTrader: (23)

It wouldn't take much more than what you've already put into it (just a trim down), but yeah probably wouldn't make much difference overall anyway.

T_Behr904

Interesting concept. I had thought about having a naca duct made or buying one and having it blended into the hood and painted so it looks "factory", but the scoop idea would be alot cheaper to do.

QT1 5MT AE

iTrader: (6)

my physics tells me that this does not direct cold air towards your scoop

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

It's raining today. I'm going to test my "Cool Air Diverter" to see if it channels water into the OEM snorkel. Overwhelming the water trap (the big round thing with the hole at the bottom) to reach the filter. Got a cheap dry-paper element in the air-box as a good indicator of wetness. "Stay tuned to this channel, for more news following the break!"

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Rain test went BETTER than expected! The location of water droplets tend to prove the "Cool Air Diverter" works as advertised. And the filter stayed dry which means it won't send water into the engine. FYI; The test went as follows. City drive (avoiding puddles like the plague) onto the highway. Highway speed approx. 55-75MPH, in clean air and behind vehicles to test the effects of spray. City drive back (avoiding puddles), into the garage, opened hood and took pictures immediately following the test. The pictures speak for themselves, where the water goes the air goes with it. Draw your own conclusions.

Picture 1 shows a high concentration of droplets around the OEM snorkel.


Picture 2 clearly shows more droplets on the "Cool Air Diverter", radiator support, top and mouth of the snorkel.


Picture 3 gives a good view of the air/water flow pattern.


Picture 4 shows that air/water is actually traveling up the "Cool Air Diverter" and under the hood area.


Picture 5 shows the underside of the hood is wet above the "Cool Air Diverter" and snorkel.


Picture 6 the air-box is wet outside and dry inside.


Picture 7 air filter is completely dry.

spock

iTrader: (5)

It appears to work as planned. I wouldn't want water channeled up under my hood though.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

It looks that way. As far as water under the hood, IMHO the water's going to get there somehow anyway. By a big puddle, road spray, and even through the grill/radiator or gaps in the hood. Just think of what gets whipped around under the hood in the rain when the fans are running or due to turbulence on the highway at speed. I'd bet the tires/axles whip a fair share of water up under the hood. We just don't realize it! I always get a chuckle when people say "Don't get anything under the hood wet". That's why sealed connectors/gaskets are under there.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

If you're criticizing NACA ducts you're totally wrong they work well. If you're referring to the "Cool Air Diverter", apparently real world testing beats your physics!"

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Apparently, after a test in the rain yesterday. It does just what it's supposed to do! Diverts cool air from behind the grill to the OEM intake snorkel area. And per your suggestion I've dubbed the Gizmo a "Cool Air Diverter". I'm not vain enough to keep the Pezz in the name.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

I applaud this ingenuity. Well done sir.

The added gains would be due to the aforementioned cooler air, not because it's actually diverting it per say, but because it's blocking the hot air off the front of the rad when the engine gets hot.

But,... keep in mind.... this is ONLY relevant when the car is at idle or moving quite slowly, this means you may notice more responsive throttle off the line.

I like the rain test you did, seems like a pretty intelligent way to test the function without getting into crazy testing or wind tunnels, seems like there may be more to this than I initially theorized from your OP...

PulsarGTS

iTrader: (6)

Some air will be diverted into the air box but gains aren't likely. The angle of the scoop is enough to cause the air to stall and actually build up at higher speeds, rev limiter speeds that is. Hence the wet hood. Its just going up and not in. If it was really helping air into the oem box there would be SOME water droplets in there as well.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

Please note in the rain test pictures. How the concentration of droplets closely follows the contour of the radiator support exactly where Nissan angled it to allow airflow to the inlet snorkel. How the droplets are also on the bottom of the inlet snorkel. The air box is dry because the water trap (the big round thing with the hole in it at the bottom of the snorkel before the air-box junction) is working properly and not being overwhelmed by the air/water flow. I tried my best to "connect the dots"(water droplets). And show what appears to be the airflow(red lines) based on the droplet distribution pattern.

spock

iTrader: (5)

The connect the dots theory is just that - a theory. I think that you need to take the intake air temp. @ or close to the filter with and without the scoop to write the conclusion to this experiment.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Devils advocate would say he needs to do as stated as well as the MAP reading.

All of this would have to be comparitive in nearly the same testing and with closely matching variables, such as outside temperature and roads, as well as speed of course.

This is not something I expect to see, although the OP seems to have the drive to do it, so possibly

Christobal65

I cannot comment on this little device, but I can tell you that the snorkel does in fact work. Sitting idling at a stop light IAT was reading 150+. Just moving 30mph the IAT's dropped to 113, ambient air temp was 94 at the time i was driving. IAT's logged using an OBD2 scanner.

BobPezz

iTrader: (5)

That's a good idea! I'll have to find a suitable "cheap" digital thermometer.

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

No no Daniel-son, you need to plug in a code reader that will monitor your IAT sensor, this reader will also read the MAP sensor, which will tell you both of the important bits of info, the amount of air as well as the temperature of it.