Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

and it's getting worse. I priced the new lock and it's about $140. The problem is that there will be 2 different keys for the car.

My question is if a locksmith can rekey the new ignition cylinder, could they just fix the one in the car? In other words, will rekeying the borken cylinder fix the probelm?

I searched but didn't really stumble across anything.

TIA

MAXIMA_STYLE

iTrader: (21)

why dont you spray some silicone lube in there and see if that helps....orrrr take it to nissan and have them diagnose the problem,maybe your key is more worn out than the ignition

mandyfig

Yes, it could be the key. Have you tried a $2 key from Wallyworld? Just to check if it is the worn key. If it is then you need to get a new one from ebay and have it cut at wallyworld. I bought mine for $25, it has the transponder on it. Works!

Nelsito65

If you have another key, (one that is less worn than the one you use all the time), try it out to see if you get the same results. If that works much better, then you know for sure it's the worn key that's causing the trouble. If that is the case, making a copy of a worn key will produce the same results, so you need to have one cut based on your key code.

geenowalker

been living with this nightmare for about a year. Nissan could not find any issue and could not reproduce. when I swiched to the backup set of keys..it was much easier. I would try the other key. Feeling your pain,,,,spent upwards of 20 min at times trying to get this to work. Jiggle the wheel while you are jiggleing the key, and make sure you leave the wheel straight when you turn the car off...has helped a little.

e-subliminal-2

iTrader: (7)

Lube the key, my buddy had the same problem with his 4th gen. Something about the ignition key hole not lining up with the insert or something. I'm not too familir but I kinda get what he means, just can't explain. Try lube for starters. If that doesn't worth look under te dash near the ignition. You should see what I mean (If it's the same problem).

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Nice! I have tried the 2 other keys that I have for the car, both of which are new. They do the same thing as my everyday key. I think that the tumblers are getting worn out.

I'm gonna go outside and put some graphite lube in the key hole and see what happens. I'll post back in a few minutes.

Edward Lee

iTrader: (3)

Just pushed a ton of dry graphite lube into the keyhole, put the key in and still wouldn't turn. Then I tried the new key and still wouldn't turn. Then I went back to the everyday key and started to work the graphite into the lock by moving the key in and out of the hole and whalaaaaa, it now works like a charm.

Thanks for all the support in getting me back on the road. You guys are great. I haven't been on this forum in quite a while as my other ride has become my new project, but I am back and will try to contribute more to this site from here on out.

mandyfig

Oh yeah, I had to go to the dealer to get my new key (ebay bought) programmed. Cost me $20 on the side.

KBCobra

Don't mean to thread hi-jack but I am having trouble removing my ignition cylinder. There's a headless rivet screw and I can't seem to get it off. Has anyone ever replaced their ignition cylinder? If so, What tools did you use to get it off? Thanks

Professor

iTrader: (4)

Sounds like the issue i am currently having, I have a automatic, There is a switch of some sort in the center console that unlocks the key so you can remove it when you put it in park, I have to bang on the side of the console, passenger side and then the key unlocks and i can turn it and remove my key, I dont know if you have the same issue but for me its the switch in the center console that seems to be going buggy, hope this helps. Also if its a stick, I dont know if it has the same keylock setup.

Professor

iTrader: (4)

Drill it out, replace.

KBCobra

I drilled it out. Half assed job but I got it to take off. Now I'm just waiting on a locksmith to come program my new key. Thanks

isrb710

I saw a video where a guy took a hammer and an awl and tapped the smooth head bolts out fairly quickly! Unfortunately I saw that AFTER I had removed them with a dremel tool with a bit where I cut a VERY rough slot in the heads and then pounded them loose with a hammer and screwdriver.

Those bolts are two-headed bolts from the factory. They're called shear bolts. When they were put in, they were tightened enough to snap off the top bolthead, leaving a smooth "bolthead".