richb500

170k.... almost the same mileage/age when my son's cat went bad.

Does the SES light come on briefly and then go off when you start the car (as it should)? This will insure that the SES light bulb didn't burn out.

If it flashes on, then perhaps the cat is borderline bad. I would consider yourself lucky and forget about it until it comes back on. In the meantime, I would stick with quality 91 octane (mfg recommended, I believe) gas. From what I've read, p0430 almost always means that the post-cat oxygen sensor on the bank 2 cat isn't happy with what it's reading. This would indicate that the cat isn't doing it's job. Make the conditions the best you can for it to work.

How do you know you "changed" the gas? Do you know what octane gas the previous owner was using?

-Rich

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

update

i wish i knew about the new cap design because there IS definitely a leak at the flange. The car sputters at cold start and sounds weird but otherwise drives fine.

Rich or Will- Can you please provide the part# for the new OEM cap?

richb500

My guess is that everyone who installed it without a gasket has a leak - they just don't know it yet.

I don't have the OEM part number for the new cap. Perhaps Will can post it here. Unfortunately prior to Eastern coming up with the solution I had already purchased a Bosal cat. I haven't put it on yet, but it does fit the old style gasket, so it should go right on without leaks. Warning about the Bosal - it does require a gasket at both ends and does not come with either one. You will have to order them separtely with the cat, or directly from Nissan. The eastern does come with the gasket for the output side of the cat which is helpful.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

ok wtf

can it get any better than this?

ok so last week the CEL came on. This time it was the P0420 code (the y-pipe cat)
i dont know wtf to do anymore. The Eastern Fart guyz suck! they haven't replied to any of my e-mails so i would think twice before buying from them again!

but coming back to my betchin, could the leak have caused the P0420 code to pop up?

Oolatec

iTrader: (5)

You cannot sim the primary a/f sensors, just an FYI.

IMO, you'd be fine with a 3rd party cat.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

You got both p0420 and p0430 codes without seeing one oxygen sensor MAXIMUM VOLTAGE or SLOW RESPONSE? This would be for the rear oxygen sensors.

I personally had codes for a long time (since 2006 if memory serves) for those rear oxygen sensors. Finally two weeks ago I got the 2nd sensor replaced and thought my problem was solved. Nope, I got a p0420 code now. That's the front catalyst firewall, or bank 1 pre-cat. This is the some-b!tch behind the VQ at the firewall.

I know this thread is discussing the P0430 or bank 2 pre-cat at manifold, front of engine just behind the radiator. I just wanted to pool the knowledge into this thread.

How difficult is it to get to that rear bank 1 pre-cat?

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

well i had a p0430 which i fixed by replacing the old front precat with the POS eastern cat. I have a terrible leak at the top flange cuz the oem gasket wont fit.
A couple of weeks ago my car popped a p0420 code. I was wondering if this was related to the leak or a bad rear cat?

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Unless the 2001 is different from the 2002, the p0430 is the front pre-cat at the radiator or bank 2. And p0420 is the front pre-cat at the firewall or bank 1.

asianstyle

iTrader: (1)

I got the same precat installed and i have this leak also. make's your car sound like sh$%tt!!! what did you do to fix this leak. Because mine didn't come with any kind of gaskets. I'm not sure about your po420 code though.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I'm assuming you have a cali-spec because I believe the fed-spec doesn't have the rear pre-cat. At any rate, it is relatively easy to get to as it is attached to your y-pipe.

You can eliminate the rear pre-cat without issue if you wish. This is done through an after market y-pipe. An after market y-pipe will actually be cheaper than replacing with stock y-pipe, unless you pick up a used stock y-pipe from someone or at a junk yard. I've been running an after market y-pipe for more than 8 years with no P0420 issues.

If you have to get smogged then you will need to ensure you car is warmed up prior to smogging. This means you have to drive it around just before smogging to ensure it is not cold.

Scottwax

iTrader: (8)

Access to a lift and 12" long socket extensions are mandatory.

I ended up just paying someone to do both precats on mine. Took two of them working nearly 3 hours to replace them-and they had a lift, impact tools and all the extensions required. Glad they only quoted me two hours labor and stuck to it.

foodmanry

iTrader: (15)

I don't know if a 2k2/2k3 is different, but I believe it is. I installed a y-pipe on my 2k in less than 1 hour with a jack, jack stands, standard metric sockets with extensions and flex joints. I did use some PB blaster on the nuts before trying to take them off.

I did my front pre-cat a couple years ago and did it with a jack, jack stands, and standard metric sock set with some extensions. It took about 1.5 hours, but that is because one of my bolts broke off and I spent some time trying to figure out how/where to get it tapped and redone, but eventually gave up on the idea. Still running fine with 2 bolts, instead of 3.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

haven't done anything yet but i'm getting fed up of it. It frikin sounds like a fart can!
I did manage to find out nissan's part numbers for the mesh gasket and the cap converter...the oem cap converter (depending if its an old design) would require some grinding....(as per Eastern Cat guy)
http://www.courtesyparts.com/maxima-...1981_1983.html

i'm debating whether i should just get the leak fixed or while i'm at it install a y-pipe to delete the rear precat which would also take care of the p0420 code....

asianstyle

iTrader: (1)

I found out where my leak was coming from. It started when I took off my oem precat. And when I installed my new eastern precat, I still had the leak. So I assumed it had something to do with that. But I took it to menike and he said my leak was coming from where the rear ypipe connects to the rear manifold. Said it would probably cost about 60 bucks to fix with labor. So I told them to hold off. So I went home and Jack up the car to see if I could fix it myself. Easy fix. I checked the bolts to the rear manifold and ypipe. They were loose and that's where my leak came from. So check your bolts to see if there loose.

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Headers are so much easier than that. I replaced my rear manifold (Cattman headers) in about 1.5 hours. The most difficult part was keeping patient and not stripping any bolts.

No lift nor crazy extensions.

salesgod

To continue on with this thread...

I bought a '00 Max 5sp SE in November. At the time, it was throwing 2 codes, a P0135 and P0430. The P0135 was an easy fix by simply replacing the front 02 on bank 2. No issues since.

This past weekend I replaced the front precat with an Eastern. The old cat was in sorry shape, so the cat replacement was required. Then I took the Max to the stealership for an ECU reprogram. The tech was actually really cool and spent a good 15 minutes with me in a Q&A session. Turns out my ECU had the most current reprogram (previous owner had replaced the MAF), so nothing was required. The tech told me the car was throwing a P0325 - Knock Sensor code, but that the KS would not trigger the SES/CEL.

After putting about 400 miles on the car, the SES came back on. I pulled into Auto Zone and found the car had now thrown a P0140, which is the rear 02 behind the newly installed cat. I suspect a couple of things:

1. Because the old precat was pretty fried, it's possible that the rear 02 sensor is fouled because the P0430 wasn't addressed for quite some time by the previous owner. It's possible that the sensor needs to be replaced.

2. Correct me if I'm wrong, but a P0140 code from the rear 02 is a high voltage code. This should indicate that I'm running rich, not lean, which would help explain the cat being toasted.

When it comes to performance, when I try to accelerate, then engine seems to lag with the pedal fully depressed until I hit about 2700 RPMs, at which time I experience the familiar punch that pushes me into the seatback. I'm assuming that the P0325 KS code has the engine running rich, but that the KS signaled in the first place because I have a bad plug or two, and am not burning all of the fuel. This would also lead to toasting my front precat if it's dealing with unburnt fuel.

I'm inclined to try replacing the plugs first (with NGK iridiums) as well as checking to make sure the coils are grey dot (previous owner said he had them replaced). I'm hoping this will improve performance right away, but I'm wondering if I should go ahead and replace the KS at the same time. If performance improves but I still get the P0140 code, I guess I'll have to replace the rear 02 sensor.

Since I'm a newb, I'd appreciate your thoughts. Thanks!

Starvin_Marvin

I own a 2001 20th Anniversary Max and I am also getting the P0430. The pre-cat on bank 2 was my original failure a few years ago. That was replaced and the problem went about 8 months. Since that time, I have had the front and rear O2 sensors replaced an bank 2. The problem keeps coming back about about 100 miles. I plant to visit a muffler shop soon to have them check form a vacuum leak. Very few people seem to know how to diagnose this problem. They just want to part swap.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Make sure there isn't a broken ground on the exhaust tubing to the chassis, not sure if this would cause problems or not but at least it's something to look at.

WhoDatBuuL

iTrader: (13)

so i can buy aftermarket headers and ypipe and get rid of the pre cat ???

and if so will my cel still be on ???

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

No CEL/SES and yeah it'll rid you of your pre cats.

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

so my car is in the shop today getting the leak fixed + getting the cattman y-pipe put in . JUST A HEADS UP. The eastern guy claiming the "new" gasket design is different than the old gasket design is pure
i checked 3 different dealers and they all sell only one type of cap-converter for 00/01 maximas and they're all the "old" design aka with 4 feet. From what i understand the new design does not even exist. And why would it? Why would a company go back on an old car and spend time redesigning something that already works in the first place??
The pics he posted in the 2nd page of the "new" cap-converter are most likely of a pathfinder or altima. THOSE CAP-CONVERTERS ARE BIGGER IN DIAMETER AND WILL NOT FIT OUR CARS. I know cuz i checked



ps: part#s for the 00/01 cap-converter + mesh are 20822-3y110 and 20804-3y110 respectively

I bought them and told my mechanic to grind off the feet. Even after grinding i dont think the cap would fit...the overall wall height still seems too high for the eastern cat....lets hope it works....will find out in a bit..

hope this helps

denny_1986

iTrader: (1)

UPDATE: so the leak appears to be fixed Will drive around a bit more to confirm.
On another note, the y-pipe install was well worth it The only downside is that my car is now hella loud at low rpms and vibrates the underside quite noticeably. The tech told me my catback is rusted through badly so most likely its the shot catback thats terrorizing my neighborhood and not the y-pipe

cjandura

iTrader: (3)

Where did you get a eastren cat to fit?im waiting on my 4th replacement because of both alignment issues with the Y pipe and sealing issues on the 3rd unit these were supposed to be the newer units

Baller4Doe

what kind of y pipe? i got 2001 maxima se. po430. would like some more performance

msucurt

Well, im bringing this back to life. Here is my situation and would love for some help, as I am really ready to order something or make a move at my mechanic.

I am in Florida (no emission tests)...i have an infiniti i30 with 82k miles. I am getting the p0430 code. I took it to my mechanic and he checked the O2 sensors and everything is reading ok with them. I would assume it is my precat going bad.

My question are the following: (and what would you do if u lived in non-emission state)

1) get an Eastern cat and install it, thus getting rid of the p0430 code.

2) perform the anti-fouler method for the O2 sensors.

3) perform the O2 sims

4) get a cattman or warpspeed y-pipe, thus eliminating the cats and solving the issue?

Im just really confused on the best solution. Obviously, money is an issue, but i dont mind paying for a precat and getting it installed correctly and getting rid of these codes once and for all.

thanks

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

if money is a issue then cattman would probably be out of your price range I would think, the eastern precat are pretty good I have one on my 2000 SE got it installed for $125 and the cat cost me $187(rockauto.com). Im not too familiar with #2 and #3 but its seems like more of a O2 sensor fix and not a precat fix which is your problem. I do know the O2 sims eliminates the code but if you're going to leave the bad precat up there then its not really helping your issue. So its appears #3 and #4 would go together. I could be incorrect about some of these speculations.

dustey

iTrader: (1)

I live in a no emission testing state. Without a doubt, just do #1 and be done with it. I did that exact thing.

It's a pretty easy installation and it's the most straightforward, simplest solution.

And regarding brand, I would recommend Bosal. I bought an Eastern which has this "gasket-less" design. My buddy (mechanic) couldn't install it no matter what he tried. The Bosal is the true OEM-replacement design that works with the gaskets which you should also pick up.

Do it right, the first time.

msucurt

thanks dustey. I definitely am going to get a precat installed. I have read on both the Bosal and Eastern. I have read exactly what you are referring to in terms of the gasket and people having issues with that. So, yes, its the Bosal.

Could you give me the link to where u purchased yours from? Also, where can i pick up the gasket from? online? If you cant, what is the part # for the gaskets for the 2000 infiniti i30.

I really appreciate you helping.

thanks

msucurt

thanks. Im going with a bosal precat as of right now.

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

the updated eastern precat(part # 40387) doesnt have a "gasket-less" design, I picked up the wire mesh and gasket from nissan, they only had the old gasket in stock so I bought it at a discounted price and grinded down the 4 small feet on and it worked perfectly....there's nothing wrong with the updated version of eastern precats plus its about 45 bucks cheaper than Bosal on rockauto.com(use those savings for new wire mesh and gasket)

dustey

iTrader: (1)

The pre-cat you need is BOSAL Part # 0991421. www.rockauto.com is generally the best/cheapest place to pick up parts, from my experience.

For the gaskets, I just went to my local Nissan dealership and bought the 2 I needed. Or buy them from Courtesy Nissan (www.courtesyparts.com)
1. [20822] CAP-CONVERTER Product SKU: 20822-A33B001 http://www.courtesyparts.com/20822-c...3-p-45004.html
2. [20840] WASHER-WIRE MESH Product SKU: 20840-A33B002 http://www.courtesyparts.com/20840-w...-p-193680.html

#2 is a wire mesh gasket that fits into #1. You will see what I mean when you buy it.

dustey

iTrader: (1)

Maybe I got one of the old versions when I bought the Eastern (although I am pretty sure I didnt) or maybe they have since updated it since I went through this. Not sure. I just know the Eastern didn't work for me and the Bosal did with the OEM gaskets. The Bosal didnt require any kind of grinding of the "feet" on the one gasket. It's been about a year since I had mine done.

As with all aftermarket parts, YMMV.

BigLou55

iTrader: (6)

Im pretty sure you got the an older version, I purchased mine in June and I did a LOT of research about which to buy before I actually purchased...lol I even called Easter Precat to verify they fixed the issue. The old gasket from nissan has the feet on it the new one doesnt. I was pressed to get that precat off my car(read too many horror stories on here) so i just bought the old one and knew it needed to be grinded(no biggie I have lots of fun tools).

Yeah your right about aftermarket parts though man, I had to do so much research on which route I should take but I refused to buy a nissan precat($800+ IIRC)

msucurt

thanks dustey. I got all the sites bookmarked. I see that the bosal precat is a little more expensive than the eastern, but it seems there is/could be some issues with the eastern with the gasket, old version of the gasket, etc. Looks like if u buy the eastern precat, then you have to do a little extra legwork to make sure the gasket it correct. I think i would rather pay a little extra knowing everything ordered (precat, wire mesh, gasket) will work correctly.

btw, how much are those 2 separate parts from the nissan stealership? Im thinking i should probably order online.

RR5

iTrader: (6)

I picked up my pre-cat from DaveB for $730 or so, including all the needed gaskets. DaveB has a thread on here pointing to a replacement dealership that offers the Maxima.org discount, check here http://forums.maxima.org/general-max...day-daveb.html

JonBlz

iTrader: (11)

thats alot of money 60-80 bucks get the gutted out and your good to go

msucurt

jon, could you explain what you mean by "gutted" out. I know it means opening the precat and taking the insides out, but when doing this, how does it affect....

1) sound
2) performance
3) what are the negatives of doing this
4) does this potentially cause issues down the road.

thanks

RR5

iTrader: (6)

Gutting the pre-cat means you'll have to run an o2 simulator because you'll throw a check engine light. Search for gutting pre-cat and you'll see.

District

Having the same problem, except I am getting both PO420 AND PO430.

Advice guys?

msucurt

dustey, thanks for the links. I would assume all of these "nissan" parts will fit my 2000 infiniti i30 saying its the same car for the most part. Just want to make sure before ordering stuff