Coilover question
#1
Coilover question
i want to change the suspention on my 00 maxima se and want some suggestions. I want something that is gonna improve the handeling but ride as smooth and soft as possible. This is what i was thinking, eathier D2 Racing D2-NO5 coilovers or the JIC A1 coilovers. which ones are better or does anyone have a better idea?
I Keep in mind, i am lookin to spend less then $1200
check this out: www.hondas.justgotowned.com
I Keep in mind, i am lookin to spend less then $1200
check this out: www.hondas.justgotowned.com
#3
Originally Posted by 00Maxima16
i want to change the suspention on my 00 maxima se and want some suggestions. I want something that is gonna improve the handeling but ride as smooth and soft as possible. This is what i was thinking, eathier D2 Racing D2-NO5 coilovers or the JIC A1 coilovers. which ones are better or does anyone have a better idea?
I Keep in mind, i am lookin to spend less then $1200
check this out: www.hondas.justgotowned.com
I Keep in mind, i am lookin to spend less then $1200
check this out: www.hondas.justgotowned.com
If you want performance, get CO's. If you want smoothness, get springs.
My K-Sports are what I like, and that's what I have.
...young'n
#5
Supporting Maxima.org Member
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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Clifton Park, NY
Posts: 4,035
Originally Posted by steven88
If I were you, I'd check out Boss Chen Coilovers....supposedly they are just as soft as regular springs...but have the full adjustability of a coilover....
PM Larrio Motors for details...
PM Larrio Motors for details...
When my D2's need rebuilding I will be calling him to price up the Boss Chen Coilovers.
#8
Coilovers that make noise are not properly designed coilovers.
If you want a smooth ride with a upgrade in handling, a simple spring/strut combo will suffice. It also won't break the bank either. This gives you time to get familiar with the vehicle and you can decide on coilovers later
If you want a smooth ride with a upgrade in handling, a simple spring/strut combo will suffice. It also won't break the bank either. This gives you time to get familiar with the vehicle and you can decide on coilovers later
#9
Originally Posted by Larrio
Coilovers that make noise are not properly designed coilovers.
If you want a smooth ride with a upgrade in handling, a simple spring/strut combo will suffice. It also won't break the bank either. This gives you time to get familiar with the vehicle and you can decide on coilovers later
If you want a smooth ride with a upgrade in handling, a simple spring/strut combo will suffice. It also won't break the bank either. This gives you time to get familiar with the vehicle and you can decide on coilovers later
#11
They are not so much poorly designed but use poor component quality.
In a nutshell, small companies keep using low-quality pillowball mounts which fail over time because its a single bearing supporting the load of the suspension and side loads during cornering. This leads to eventual failure in terms of long term reliability
Taken from ground control's website:
"(CCP) are quite unique. Probably the most striking innovation is the separate bearing surface for the spring loads. This assures that when the strut changes its angle with the chassis, the spring can also change its angle, without overloading a centered bearing.
Early in the development of our CCP, we did try to allow the spring to actually pivot ON the single bearing, but carrying the entire weight of the car as an axial load, even on a very large bearing did not last. It also made the engineers at the bearing company roll their eyeballs."
Larger companies such as Tein and JIC have compensated for this through testing and better components. Other smaller generic companies do not have such extensive methods. The optimal solution would be to use the stock upper mounting system utilizing the OEM strut bearing as designed by Nissan. However people usually "oogle" over the pillowball mounts, which has made it a market driven option (just like extreme lowering springs).
In a nutshell, small companies keep using low-quality pillowball mounts which fail over time because its a single bearing supporting the load of the suspension and side loads during cornering. This leads to eventual failure in terms of long term reliability
Taken from ground control's website:
"(CCP) are quite unique. Probably the most striking innovation is the separate bearing surface for the spring loads. This assures that when the strut changes its angle with the chassis, the spring can also change its angle, without overloading a centered bearing.
Early in the development of our CCP, we did try to allow the spring to actually pivot ON the single bearing, but carrying the entire weight of the car as an axial load, even on a very large bearing did not last. It also made the engineers at the bearing company roll their eyeballs."
Larger companies such as Tein and JIC have compensated for this through testing and better components. Other smaller generic companies do not have such extensive methods. The optimal solution would be to use the stock upper mounting system utilizing the OEM strut bearing as designed by Nissan. However people usually "oogle" over the pillowball mounts, which has made it a market driven option (just like extreme lowering springs).
#12
maybe its because i havent driven a stock max in a long time but my JIC's imo are very soft. many people have upgraded the springs to ones with higher rate due to this.
i dirve on some really crappy roads, and besides a lil squish noise over big bumps my coilovers are just as quiet as any spring/strut combo ive used on different cars(which is quite a bit) but then again i did spend over $1000 so theres always a give and take.
i dirve on some really crappy roads, and besides a lil squish noise over big bumps my coilovers are just as quiet as any spring/strut combo ive used on different cars(which is quite a bit) but then again i did spend over $1000 so theres always a give and take.
#13
Originally Posted by ColdSHO
maybe its because i havent driven a stock max in a long time but my JIC's imo are very soft. many people have upgraded the springs to ones with higher rate due to this.
i dirve on some really crappy roads, and besides a lil squish noise over big bumps my coilovers are just as quiet as any spring/strut combo ive used on different cars(which is quite a bit) but then again i did spend over $1000 so theres always a give and take.
i dirve on some really crappy roads, and besides a lil squish noise over big bumps my coilovers are just as quiet as any spring/strut combo ive used on different cars(which is quite a bit) but then again i did spend over $1000 so theres always a give and take.
Its ruff, but if the coilovers are close to the ride quailty as the coilovers I would get them
#14
well...JIC's are the best hands down. Pay the extra money for the best. I live in atlanta and drive around daily tucking 20's on JIC's and the ride is just FINE. No one ever complains....theyre the best mod i have ever done.
PS...i've gone from eibach springs to ground cotnrols to JIC's...springs SUCK. why half *** it...lol. sorry to be so blunt but ****...it's the truth. go all out!
PS...i've gone from eibach springs to ground cotnrols to JIC's...springs SUCK. why half *** it...lol. sorry to be so blunt but ****...it's the truth. go all out!
#18
00Maxima16, you might try Cattman and see if he has any Progress coilovers left in stock. They re-use the stock strut mount like Larrio's post mentioned, to remain less harsh than most other designs. When I got mine they were like $1050.
I haven't installed my new CCP's but I am very close...
I haven't installed my new CCP's but I am very close...
#19
my jic's as with most of the coilovers that i know of. u can go so low u can almost put the frame on the ground, honestly i havent played with how low i can go. i think 24inches all the way around is low enough, any lower im gonna ride poorly. i get no bump steer and i can still go thru car washes and such.
im running a1s btu if i had to do it all over again i think id spend the extra $$$ and get the a2s, not for the more adjsutment but for the montube design.
and im only running on 17s. dont really plan on going any larger. rims and tires make just as big difference as the suspension. and the spring strut is just part of the equation. uve got sway bars strut bars bushings ltbs. sfc's alignmanet angles and such. u wanna handle better, better take all those into account.
im running a1s btu if i had to do it all over again i think id spend the extra $$$ and get the a2s, not for the more adjsutment but for the montube design.
and im only running on 17s. dont really plan on going any larger. rims and tires make just as big difference as the suspension. and the spring strut is just part of the equation. uve got sway bars strut bars bushings ltbs. sfc's alignmanet angles and such. u wanna handle better, better take all those into account.
#20
FYI for all those with aspirations to buy JIC FLTA2s- do not drive with these in the winter. If you have sub 30F temps in your part of the country they will blow out fast, they are not designed for that kinda driving.
I take off my shocks for winter as they ride SUPER stiff when its cold outside, and I always fear of them blowing out . I've repleaced/rebuild all 4 corners on my few year old JIC FLTA2 setup.
It does ride like its on rails when its setup properly, but it could use a bit of chassis stiffening as the car does not feel soild.
I run diff than normal A2 springs in mine, with 620lbs rear springs- which are 2 times the normal A2 springs for the rear. I can't tell you how good it rides with that setup as I am awaiting the new springs and rebuild rear shocks to show up in the mail from JIC. I know its going to be much harsher but frankly I think I will like it. Just to give you an idea on how great JICs do, when I autoX my big boat I am runing in the same class as M3, Miatas and EVOs. I have yet to loose to a EVO or STI on our local autoX course. I am moving away from autoX and will do full out road racing.
I'm conteplating on putting a full roll cage in the car, removing all the interior but the gauges and repleacing the windows with Lexan I would love to see it loose 350lbs from its current curb weight. It would give me the power to weight ratio that would rival M3s and other big HP machinery I see showing up at the track.
I've had Ground Controls on Konis, they where almost like stock riding and never made any noises. My JICs make noises at low speeds when turning thou..... I guess they are cheap coilovers :P
I take off my shocks for winter as they ride SUPER stiff when its cold outside, and I always fear of them blowing out . I've repleaced/rebuild all 4 corners on my few year old JIC FLTA2 setup.
It does ride like its on rails when its setup properly, but it could use a bit of chassis stiffening as the car does not feel soild.
I run diff than normal A2 springs in mine, with 620lbs rear springs- which are 2 times the normal A2 springs for the rear. I can't tell you how good it rides with that setup as I am awaiting the new springs and rebuild rear shocks to show up in the mail from JIC. I know its going to be much harsher but frankly I think I will like it. Just to give you an idea on how great JICs do, when I autoX my big boat I am runing in the same class as M3, Miatas and EVOs. I have yet to loose to a EVO or STI on our local autoX course. I am moving away from autoX and will do full out road racing.
I'm conteplating on putting a full roll cage in the car, removing all the interior but the gauges and repleacing the windows with Lexan I would love to see it loose 350lbs from its current curb weight. It would give me the power to weight ratio that would rival M3s and other big HP machinery I see showing up at the track.
I've had Ground Controls on Konis, they where almost like stock riding and never made any noises. My JICs make noises at low speeds when turning thou..... I guess they are cheap coilovers :P
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