The rest of the Cattman Header Install **56k dare**
11-07-2005, 04:15 PM
#1
The rest of the Cattman Header Install **56k dare**
Here are some pics from the actuall install. Thanks to BlackBirdVQ for the install and to THT for letting us mess his floor up. BTW, THT's paint is mad nice, so soft!
We actually had to get a local shop to use an acetylene torch to remove the insane rust on the two nuts that connect the cat to y-pipe.
First pic here is of a failing front pre-cat. You can see the residue all over the stock header as well. Terrible design.
THT's garage/misc.
We actually had to get a local shop to use an acetylene torch to remove the insane rust on the two nuts that connect the cat to y-pipe.
First pic here is of a failing front pre-cat. You can see the residue all over the stock header as well. Terrible design.
THT's garage/misc.
11-07-2005, 06:40 PM
#7
Originally Posted by whazzzzuup
How does the car feel? I hope you can get whatever problems you have resolved.
11-07-2005, 06:56 PM
#11
Originally Posted by steven88
oh hehe i didn't see....are u going to post up exhaust sound clips?
11-07-2005, 07:05 PM
#12
Originally Posted by Epacy
I thought about that tonight. Need to get someone to tape it. I think my friends camera does clips. Will have to see. It sounds good, I have spent time flooring it
11-07-2005, 07:08 PM
#13
Originally Posted by steven88
oh hehe i didn't see....are u going to post up exhaust sound clips?
I gotta tell you man, I just listened to your vid and I think mine sounds better
What exhaust you have? Doesn't look like a big enough can to be Greddy.
11-07-2005, 07:15 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Epacy
I gotta tell you man, I just listened to your vid and I think mine sounds better
What exhaust you have? Doesn't look like a big enough can to be Greddy.
What exhaust you have? Doesn't look like a big enough can to be Greddy.
It's a cattmang catback...just like yers
11-07-2005, 07:53 PM
#16
Originally Posted by Puppetmaster
He has a Cattman cat-back , just like yours... 
edit: that vid you have has a black car.............
11-08-2005, 07:23 PM
#26
Originally Posted by kcowden
With all these header installs going on lately I was wondering who was going to step up and put together the definitive "how to" for the header install ??????????
11-08-2005, 07:36 PM
#28
Originally Posted by kcowden
With all these header installs going on lately I was wondering who was going to step up and put together the definitive "how to" for the header install ??????????
http://forums.maxima.org/showthread....hlight=headers
11-08-2005, 07:55 PM
#29
HOW TO INSTALL HEADERS on a 5.5 GEN- HotShot or Cattmans.
1st, remove the splash shields from under the vehicle and put the car on jack stands high enough that you can crawl under the front end of the vehicle and the middle so you can access the cat-to Ypipe bolts. Get yourself a can of PB Blaster for penetrating oil (works better than WD40), and soak the cat bolts, Ypipe bolts and all the small 10mm bolts that hold the manifold heat shields on. Remove the wire harness that runs to your cooling fans, drain the radiator, and remove coolant hoses, (and for AUTO trannies, cooler lines off the radiator) and then remove radiator out of the car- will give you alot of room to work with. Remove the Oxygen sensors out of the Ypipe and front manifold, and then remove the big heat shield off the front manifold- which is held in place by 3 10mm bolts. Remove the PRECAT bolts from the bottom- should be 6 12mm bolts that hold the precat from the bottom, and 2 12mm nuts that hold it from the top. Then remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the Ypipe to the oil pan. If you haven't done so yet, remove the Ypipe bolts that hold it to the cat, and then remove the 3 14mm nuts that hold the Ypipe tho the rear pre-cat- WATCH OUT as the Ypipe will most likely fall down and could hit you. Drag the Ypipe from under the car and put it away, remove the 6 14mm nuts that hold the front manifold to the head- you are now halfway done with removing the OEM manifold stuff. Proceed to use a 10mm SWIVEL socket on a long extenssion to remove the rear manifold heat shield- if one or all bolts break off, dont worry as you will not be reusing those bolts. Move the shield around so you have enough room to get at the rear O2 sensor which is bolted down into the rear manifold. You will need a 22mm 02 sensor socket and yet another long extension to break the sensor loose, the heat shield will be getting in your way so try to move it around some to give you room to get at that 02 sensor. Once you got that off, move the shield again so you can gain access at the 2 14mm nuts that hold the REAR pre-cat to the rear exhaust manifold. Position a floor jack under the transmission or oil pan- I like to use both of them as its a nice HARD spot, so you don't crush the oil pan, jack the engine up just a little bit- like 1/8" up. Then remove the front engine mount 17mm bolt (if you have an auto, it will have a wire harness runing to the electronic front engine mount, remove that harness and let it dangle) and then remove the rear engine mount 17mm bolt. You might need to eighter jack the engine up more or lower it to get those engine mount bolts out. Remove the front crossmember 17mm bolts from under the radiator support and then remove the rear 17mm bolts from the subframe- carefull not to hit your self with the loose crossmember. Once that is out of the way, you can remove the remaining 2 bolts from the rear precat and remove the precat completly off the vehicle. Pry on the engine a little bit towards the front of the car to remove that heat shield that is loose sitting ontop of the rear manifold. Hit those manifold bolts with a bit of PB blaster, and then proceed to remove the rear motor mount bracket off the engine. I found that if I use a large prybar I can bend the motor mount bracket down giving me access to those 2 upper 14mm bolts and then removing the lower 14mm bolts, and completly removing that motor mount bracket off the engine. Its hard to explain how I bend it out of the way but you will see what I mean once you look at it- bracket has this shield on the inside that blocks access to the upper 2 14mm bolts and needs to be bent down in order for you to put a wrench on those bolts. After you remove that bracket you can remove the rear manifold off the rear cylinder head. This is basically IT for removal of the old stuff, installing the new headers- like HS or Cattmans is pretty much reverse order of removing the OEM stuff. Once you install your new front and rear headers, do not tighten the manifold bolts just yet, you want the headers to be on, but not tight- as you need to install the Ypipe on and if you have the headers too tight, the Ypipe might not mate up with the headers. Do not forget to tighten and check ALL the bolts after installing the headers and Ypipe.
1st, remove the splash shields from under the vehicle and put the car on jack stands high enough that you can crawl under the front end of the vehicle and the middle so you can access the cat-to Ypipe bolts. Get yourself a can of PB Blaster for penetrating oil (works better than WD40), and soak the cat bolts, Ypipe bolts and all the small 10mm bolts that hold the manifold heat shields on. Remove the wire harness that runs to your cooling fans, drain the radiator, and remove coolant hoses, (and for AUTO trannies, cooler lines off the radiator) and then remove radiator out of the car- will give you alot of room to work with. Remove the Oxygen sensors out of the Ypipe and front manifold, and then remove the big heat shield off the front manifold- which is held in place by 3 10mm bolts. Remove the PRECAT bolts from the bottom- should be 6 12mm bolts that hold the precat from the bottom, and 2 12mm nuts that hold it from the top. Then remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the Ypipe to the oil pan. If you haven't done so yet, remove the Ypipe bolts that hold it to the cat, and then remove the 3 14mm nuts that hold the Ypipe tho the rear pre-cat- WATCH OUT as the Ypipe will most likely fall down and could hit you. Drag the Ypipe from under the car and put it away, remove the 6 14mm nuts that hold the front manifold to the head- you are now halfway done with removing the OEM manifold stuff. Proceed to use a 10mm SWIVEL socket on a long extenssion to remove the rear manifold heat shield- if one or all bolts break off, dont worry as you will not be reusing those bolts. Move the shield around so you have enough room to get at the rear O2 sensor which is bolted down into the rear manifold. You will need a 22mm 02 sensor socket and yet another long extension to break the sensor loose, the heat shield will be getting in your way so try to move it around some to give you room to get at that 02 sensor. Once you got that off, move the shield again so you can gain access at the 2 14mm nuts that hold the REAR pre-cat to the rear exhaust manifold. Position a floor jack under the transmission or oil pan- I like to use both of them as its a nice HARD spot, so you don't crush the oil pan, jack the engine up just a little bit- like 1/8" up. Then remove the front engine mount 17mm bolt (if you have an auto, it will have a wire harness runing to the electronic front engine mount, remove that harness and let it dangle) and then remove the rear engine mount 17mm bolt. You might need to eighter jack the engine up more or lower it to get those engine mount bolts out. Remove the front crossmember 17mm bolts from under the radiator support and then remove the rear 17mm bolts from the subframe- carefull not to hit your self with the loose crossmember. Once that is out of the way, you can remove the remaining 2 bolts from the rear precat and remove the precat completly off the vehicle. Pry on the engine a little bit towards the front of the car to remove that heat shield that is loose sitting ontop of the rear manifold. Hit those manifold bolts with a bit of PB blaster, and then proceed to remove the rear motor mount bracket off the engine. I found that if I use a large prybar I can bend the motor mount bracket down giving me access to those 2 upper 14mm bolts and then removing the lower 14mm bolts, and completly removing that motor mount bracket off the engine. Its hard to explain how I bend it out of the way but you will see what I mean once you look at it- bracket has this shield on the inside that blocks access to the upper 2 14mm bolts and needs to be bent down in order for you to put a wrench on those bolts. After you remove that bracket you can remove the rear manifold off the rear cylinder head. This is basically IT for removal of the old stuff, installing the new headers- like HS or Cattmans is pretty much reverse order of removing the OEM stuff. Once you install your new front and rear headers, do not tighten the manifold bolts just yet, you want the headers to be on, but not tight- as you need to install the Ypipe on and if you have the headers too tight, the Ypipe might not mate up with the headers. Do not forget to tighten and check ALL the bolts after installing the headers and Ypipe.
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