something I noticed about the D2 coilovers
10-02-2004, 09:36 PM
#1
something I noticed about the D2 coilovers
i've been running on the D2's for little over a week. At first there was a lot of clunking/popping noises so I had my installer take another look.... everything checked out fine and the noises went away. Then they started coming back a few days later, so I went and got an alignment hoping it would go away. Then, today I take a look underneath the car cause the noise is unbearable now....
what I found is that the upper rubber seals/boots that seperate the spring from the aluminum components of the suspension have ripped on both sides. First of all, these weren't designed very well. The tops ones are flimsy and the bottom ones are too small for the spring. Whats been happening is that when your turning the car, the friction between the spring turning against the top aluminum hat with the rubber sandwiched in between rips the boot apart. I'll try to get pictures of how they look now, but here is where i'm referencing to (underneath d2 logo, right at the top of the spring):
for stock, the spring is usually wrapped in some type of rubber tubing around the coils to prevent this from happening
what I found is that the upper rubber seals/boots that seperate the spring from the aluminum components of the suspension have ripped on both sides. First of all, these weren't designed very well. The tops ones are flimsy and the bottom ones are too small for the spring. Whats been happening is that when your turning the car, the friction between the spring turning against the top aluminum hat with the rubber sandwiched in between rips the boot apart. I'll try to get pictures of how they look now, but here is where i'm referencing to (underneath d2 logo, right at the top of the spring):
for stock, the spring is usually wrapped in some type of rubber tubing around the coils to prevent this from happening
10-03-2004, 10:10 AM
#6
ride quality is still fine, it just clunks alot hitting bumps on turns or when your locking out the steering wheel cause that rubber seal is mashed in between the aluminum and the spring. The coilovers takes speed bumps and dips alot better than springs/struts ever will, especially with the rear beam setup. Highway bumps are slightly harder, always feels like the car lands on all fours
I have the car lowered to where the sprint springs were at. About 1.25 inch gap all around
I have the car lowered to where the sprint springs were at. About 1.25 inch gap all around
10-03-2004, 11:55 AM
#7
Thanks for the infos Larrio, mine will be install this week but before they goes in I'm going to check this out and see if I can find a better substitute for the rubber.
Thanks again.
Cheers
AA
Thanks again.
Cheers
AA
10-03-2004, 03:53 PM
#12
ride height is post #6, 1.25 gap all around
its not really the coilover setup, its the coilover design. The top seal is too flimsy and the bottom seal is too small/tight. The friction cause between the spring and the top aluminum hat is too much for the flimsy seal and it broke on both sides.
so far its just me, however with the way these things are... it will definitely happen to more further down the road. I'm planning to wrap both the top and bottom with some nylon tubing later on in this week.
i'm trying to get pics, but can't find my digicam right now.
its not really the coilover setup, its the coilover design. The top seal is too flimsy and the bottom seal is too small/tight. The friction cause between the spring and the top aluminum hat is too much for the flimsy seal and it broke on both sides.
so far its just me, however with the way these things are... it will definitely happen to more further down the road. I'm planning to wrap both the top and bottom with some nylon tubing later on in this week.
i'm trying to get pics, but can't find my digicam right now.
10-03-2004, 05:22 PM
#14
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my left front jic made a weird clunking sound after i adjusted them once...i had a pretty good idea what it was..and it was the top hat making all the racket. all i had to do was tighten the nut on the top where you adjust the dampening and it went away. not sure how the d2's are designed, but i thought i'd throw that out. when I called up jic and explained it to them and that's what they told me to do also...was just double checking on it. all is well now.
10-03-2004, 05:30 PM
#15
Originally Posted by Triple8Sol
Well besides the noise you get, do you think this issue will cause any problems in the future?
stevay: i haven't really looked closely to see if the tops can be tightened. The **** for the dampening screws down at the top so I never really noticed, i'll have to take a look this weekend
10-03-2004, 09:30 PM
#16
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I've been running the D2's for a little over a week now. My ride height is 25.5 " from the ground to the center of the fender well. As far as the dampeners go I adjusted them all the way towards "L" and then turned towards "H" 1 and 1/4 turns. For the ride, its gets better everyday. Yesterday I had to switch the front L & R because i had them on the wrong side (they weren't labeled) and I dropped the back another 3/4 inch to make it more level. 1max2nv told me to make sure the 2 lower collar bolts were very tight. I used a 2.5 foot breakover bar to tighten with. Right now the way I have these set, they are pretty close to stock ride quality. With dips you get a little bouncy, but nothing unbearable. All of my organs are still in their correct locations. I have no suspension noise, i.e clunks , pops or any noises with the steering. The only noise I get would be the transfer of vibration from the front strut tower. I'm working on a rubber bushing of sort to help with that, but the noise is still minimal. Larrio you might want to try tightening up your lower strut perches. I'm not talking about the collar itself, but actually tighten up the tension on the spring. So far I'm really satisfied with the coilovers, the ride and the handling...... yeah and the look. Larrio keep me posted on the noise issue. Who knows I may have the problem to. Heres a pic before lowered the back another 3/4"
10-03-2004, 09:51 PM
#17
Originally Posted by skalberti
I've been running the D2's for a little over a week now. My ride height is 25.5 " from the ground to the center of the fender well.
Best yet is for everone to post their distance from the center of the wheel hub to the same center of the wheel/fender well going forward.
This eliminates variances in both tire sizes and people with weird sized fingers.
My front wheel to fender height is 13 1/4". (Which is also 24 7/8" from ground and 1 finger)
10-03-2004, 09:57 PM
#18
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Originally Posted by BEJAY1
Thanks for using a better height figure for everyone.
Best yet is for everone to post their distance from the center of the wheel hub to the same center of the wheel/fender well going forward.
This eliminates variances in both tire sizes and people with weird sized fingers.
My front wheel to fender height is 13 1/4". (Which is also 24 7/8" from ground and 1 finger)
Best yet is for everone to post their distance from the center of the wheel hub to the same center of the wheel/fender well going forward.
This eliminates variances in both tire sizes and people with weird sized fingers.
My front wheel to fender height is 13 1/4". (Which is also 24 7/8" from ground and 1 finger)
10-03-2004, 10:06 PM
#19
i never used any finger measurements for my ride height 
I simply said it was a 1.25 inch gap all around.
what do you mean by lower strut perches? I've tightened everything on the suspension. Actually we took apart the fronts and re-did everything just to make sure
I simply said it was a 1.25 inch gap all around.what do you mean by lower strut perches? I've tightened everything on the suspension. Actually we took apart the fronts and re-did everything just to make sure
10-03-2004, 10:21 PM
#20
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The double collars that the spring sits on, the upper of the two collars, tighten up so that the spring will start to compress a little. This will keep more tension on the spring and the first round of the coil will always stay compressed and may less likely cause the clacking noise. Sometimes you get noise from the coil rounds slapping each other, especially the first round or two. If you noticed, on the stock springs, there are rubber tubing on the first round. I'm not sure if thats the cause of your, just a suggestion. Here's a pic
10-05-2004, 05:42 PM
#21
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Originally Posted by slammed95
Actually you don't want to have it set that way. That's why I didn't do it to Larry's car. They way you have it, the shock is fully extended when the car is stationary. This eliminates and suspension droop, or downtravel. When you go over a crest or high-speed bump, the car will go up and so will the tires since the suspension can't extend to keep contact with the road. His suspension is set up pretty much as good as it can get. The problem is simply the actual design of the coilover parts.
10-05-2004, 06:03 PM
#22
my jic's clunk with a maddness now too... jic recomends that users put pretension on the springs.. my springs have settled alot over time so i'll be needing new springs. i never really found out what was clunking tho. maybe it's the same thing as urs larry.
10-05-2004, 06:31 PM
#23
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Ugh, my D2's also make alot of noise expecially while going around a parking-lot. Im dropped pretty low (front is tuckin tire, and back has a 1 finger gap), and although the car rides very solid and handles great, they do click and clack when I turn the wheel. I was hoping its because they're reletively new and still need to settle, but am starting to think that maybe it wont go away.
10-05-2004, 11:19 PM
#24
yep yep.. clicking and clacking. The noise is awful now. I also sounds like something is loose now, some type of aluminum clicking.. everything seems to be tight. I'll have my shop take a look this weekend and get some pics up
10-06-2004, 04:12 AM
#26
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Originally Posted by Wisky97SE
Please let us know if there are any possible fixes . . . . $900 and my car sounds like a piece of **** 
(it sure does handle great though 
).
(it sure does handle great though ).I’ve wrestled with that problem many times and have finally found a solution that gets rid of the clunking. On my last Koni & GC coil set up I experienced the same thing and discovered that if you grease the top and bottom coils up it will silence the clunks and clanks up. I would only have to reapply about every 3 months. Try this and let me know how it works out for you guys, after all a tub of grease costs less the $7.00….
Good luck
10-06-2004, 05:28 AM
#27
Originally Posted by RELENTLESS
I’ve wrestled with that problem many times and have finally found a solution that gets rid of the clunking. On my last Koni & GC coil set up I experienced the same thing and discovered that if you grease the top and bottom coils up it will silence the clunks and clanks up. I would only have to reapply about every 3 months. Try this and let me know how it works out for you guys, after all a tub of grease costs less the $7.00….
Good luck
Good luck
10-06-2004, 06:28 AM
#28
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Originally Posted by BEJAY1
That sounds like the solution to coil bind when it turns. I had the same problem with mine when I had no insulators to speak of. Greased poly isolator between the spring top and strut plate/mount made most noise go away.
10-09-2004, 02:27 PM
#29
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I applied some White Lithium Grease today to the top and bottom coils of my D2's, and the popping has decreased, yet is still there. It turns out the robber piece on the top of my D2's have also ripped and now the coil spring is directly in contact with the top part of the D2. . .
10-09-2004, 04:22 PM
#30
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Originally Posted by Wisky97SE
I applied some White Lithium Grease today to the top and bottom coils of my D2's, and the popping has decreased, yet is still there. It turns out the robber piece on the top of my D2's have also ripped and now the coil spring is directly in contact with the top part of the D2. . .
10-09-2004, 10:44 PM
#31
ok, this is the problem that has been assessed:
the front coilovers come assembled too tightly from d2, which causes the pillow ***** to not move freely. This results in the spring and into strut assembly to twist back and forth while your turning, eventually ripping the seals. The seals are designed well, but the spring and collar sit too closely together, so with the seals it makes a really tight fit. I almost stripped the entire top assembly trying to break loose the top bolt at the top of the pillow ball mount.
the front coilovers come assembled too tightly from d2, which causes the pillow ***** to not move freely. This results in the spring and into strut assembly to twist back and forth while your turning, eventually ripping the seals. The seals are designed well, but the spring and collar sit too closely together, so with the seals it makes a really tight fit. I almost stripped the entire top assembly trying to break loose the top bolt at the top of the pillow ball mount.
10-09-2004, 10:49 PM
#32
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What if you don't have any noise when turning? All of my noise is during driving. The funny thing is on big dips or bumps, when the suspension gets really compressed, It doesn't make any noise? Usually little elevations between the concrete and ridges in the asphalt cause the noise in mine. So did your work on the upper pillow ball mounts work?
10-10-2004, 01:26 AM
#33
only for one side, the other is on so tight that we almost stripped the top trying to take off the bolt.
you should check the preload on your springs if your having noises during driving. Or try to feel is the top collar is loose when the car is lifted up, you should tighten the nut on top of the strut
you should check the preload on your springs if your having noises during driving. Or try to feel is the top collar is loose when the car is lifted up, you should tighten the nut on top of the strut
10-10-2004, 06:54 AM
#34
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After putting miles on the car, what do you think of the ride quality now? How often do you hear other noises not related to the seals? Urban Imports is right down the road from me (Raleigh NC), but I am not about to drop $$$$ on noisey bumpy coilovers that last 15K miles.
10-10-2004, 10:17 AM
#35
first off, i've been ridden in JIC's, Teins, and Kei office coilovers and all of them make noise. The noise now from the D2's is not from the seals, its from the springs. I'd say you have urban import fix the pre-assembly problem so that the pillow ball mounts work properly.
as for the ride quality, the ride great. The spring rates are virtually the same as the JIC's and for what you get with the price, its unbeatable.
as for the ride quality, the ride great. The spring rates are virtually the same as the JIC's and for what you get with the price, its unbeatable.
10-10-2004, 01:55 PM
#36
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Originally Posted by Larrio
first off, i've been ridden in JIC's, Teins, and Kei office coilovers and all of them make noise. The noise now from the D2's is not from the seals, its from the springs. I'd say you have urban import fix the pre-assembly problem so that the pillow ball mounts work properly.
as for the ride quality, the ride great. The spring rates are virtually the same as the JIC's and for what you get with the price, its unbeatable.
as for the ride quality, the ride great. The spring rates are virtually the same as the JIC's and for what you get with the price, its unbeatable.
10-11-2004, 11:11 AM
#38
I just got mine installed yesterday... I have the same problem with the front left coilover. Mine make noise most of the time when I turn left. I put a vinyl hose that I got from Home Depot on the top and bottom first coils of all 4 coilovers with some grease and the sounds have deminished a bit but I still get terrible sounds from the front left coilover.
10-11-2004, 05:27 PM
#40
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I spoke to Michael at urbanimports this afternoon. He said that D2 is taking a look at this issue. He also confirmed that no othet complaints have come back on any other car brand yet. D2 told him to ensure that the mounting bolt on the bottom of the coilover is properly tightened. I guess this is a common issue with installations not done in a shop or with the right TQ. Just some info on the case.