Max_Gator

yes but they aren't reading it!!!
and "not me"

Ephraim

iTrader: (15)

wow, im really getting lost on this shorthand jargon
VIAS?
IACV?
ERG?

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

VIAS - Variable Intake Air System
IACV - Idle Air Control Valve
EGR - Exhuast Gas Recirculation

You'll get used to it.

sloppymax

iTrader: (8)

i took mine out today during lunch. its hard to any difference in accleration mainly due to the heat. my adapter had the paint chipping off as well. noise is up a tad mainly at initially hitting the pedal. it sounds like i have a midpipe for a second then the sound is gone. i agree its a restriction however i will be interested if we can form a hypothesis on its long term affect if any.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Anybody look at the TB-->Manifold closely.

There's a few small areas I'd smooth with a dremel, if you go all out.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I'm probably gonna reset my ECU when I do mine... BTW, with the dremel, what specific tool would you use?

Kiosk

I took my restrictor off today. Took about 15min (burnt myself with the f'ing shop light) and everything was pretty clean.
Not any noticeable difference in power, wasnt expecting any but the throtle does seem slightly more responsive and the whistle noise a little louder.
When i look at this restrictor it looks more and more like its made to flow the air around that EGR pipe and smooth things out......not sure but maybe when nissan was benchflowing they deciced it made sense, who knows....
Well my car now at least weights 0.000001 pounds less!!!!

Ephraim

iTrader: (15)

took mine off today also, and almost removed my thumbnail. wow that bolt was on tight! anyway..

i drive a 5sp 2000 SE, just went for a 30 minute ride and i noticed right away that if i took my foot off the gas in any gear it took longer for the car to slow down, as opposed to when the plate was on i noticed it would start slowing down immeadiately. in the same way, high rpms stayed higher when switching gears as opposed to having the plate on. it just revved smoother in general

oh and does a louder whine from the intake mean that you have more hp..
jk

MaximaVQ97

iTrader: (4)

Heres a Couple of pics I took of the hacked EGR Tube.... it took about 45 minutes to cut through the tube with a small saw, and it was nearly impossible to remove the whole EGR Tube w/o remove a bunch of other stuff. I Did notice way better acceleration with the TB Reducer/Restrictor Gone, it also got better when i shortened the EGR tube... The only draw back that i have about this "MOD" is that the car whistles louder now.. from 2k-2500 RPM when just cruising... when under WOT there is no whistle. ( i have a short ram intake WAI) The whistle could be from the EGR Tube not being cut at a slant anymore (since thats the way it was stock) also another kinda draw back was when i was sawing the EGR Tube i cut up some of my Intake Manifold, i simply just smoothed it out with the dremrel and it was ok.. My final thought on the mod is this if you want better acceleration defenantly remove the Throttle body restrictor, i noticed better throttle response right away, you could go the extra distance and chop the EGR tube like i did for a LITTLE more power.


Cardomain: Page 5 incase the link isnt correct

http://www.cardomain.com/memberpage/569075/5


Id like to thank IceY2K1 for the actual idea of the Mod...if anyone has anymore question let me know!

-Anthony

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Nice~!

Next, somebody needs to find a way to remove the complete EGR dump tube withOUT causing a CEL.

Also, did the whistling get worse or better once you hacked the EGR tube?

BTW, you need to be THANKING krismax, not me. He's the pioneer here. It's just funny to me that a 4th gener had to figure out this simple mod for us 5th gens..

pinakbet

For those who have removed the restrictor, did you also bypass the coolant lines to the TB? Just wondering... I dunno what i'm talking about... haha

MaximaVQ97

iTrader: (4)

IceY2K1,

It Would be nice not to have the EGR tube there.. Smog Junk really sucks, i especally hate how they have to make cali-spec cars and fed-spec cars .. i would imagin this is costing manufactures more?

Also in regards to your question
The Whistling got louder after i hacked the EGR Tube, i think it got louder since the EGR Tube is no longer cut at a slant... b/c if you blow air over a drinking straw it will kind of whistle, so i think im going to cut it at an angle within the next day or 2


And Finally Yes i would like to thank Krismax for the Idea!!!!! haha a 4th gener figured it out (thanks again) ... and to think the 5th gen has been out for 4 years now, and we are barley figuring out that theres a TB restrictor!!! i wonder what pointless nissan restrictive junk we will find next.

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Okay, good. Still hope for LESS whistle.

I'd bet $5 that this "intake adapter" is really Nissans' cheap bandaid fix to minimize the whistling noise the EGR tube makes. NISSAN

Regime

iTrader: (2)

Ok I have a couple things to add.
I have gotten my ECU to "learn" this mod, reset the ECU after the mod was done, and have driven just under 100 miles so far.
The quicker revs and small power increase are still there.
My Autotragic is actually shifting better, a bit faster and more intelligently...like on a 2-1 shift during a slowdown, then speed up manuever. (i.e. slowing down to >10mph for a stop light then hitting the gas.) Not quite sure WHY this is happening, but it is there.

Also on starts when the car is not 100% warmed up, it runs very rich for about 5 minutes (you can smell the gas in the exhuast fumes). Then seems normal after that.

Lastly I am definatly getting better gas mileage. I will have numbers shortly, but I have been FLOGGING the car for the last 100 miles and have noticed that the gauge isn't dropping like it usually does when I am on the gas this much.

Kiosk

Ok, i know this has been asked a lot of times, but I have also seen several ways of doing it but how did you reset your ECU?
I did this mod and want to try reset EUC also.

ChromeSE5

iTrader: (3)

unplug negative on battery for 2k 2k1. The 2k2 2k3 use the pedal medal.

sloppymax

iTrader: (8)

mine was already bypassed. sr20den showed me how after my header install. it keeps coolant from getting warmed up through the TB so it should run cooler. probably works better for those with metal manifolds but it cant hurt as long as you keep an eye out for leaks.

MyownNismo

iTrader: (13)

Has anybody thought of making a throttle body spacer. Would that produce some HP.

5thgen2nr

question....how do you seperate the throttle body from the intake manifold? Sorry if this has already been addressed, I've had a few too many beers.

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

explain to me one thing, is this restrictor plate after the butterfly vlave?

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Yes, it is.

SoonerFan

iTrader: (5)

this is how you remove the throttle body

Regime

iTrader: (2)

You can actually remove the plate without disconnecting any of the wiring harnesses or hoses. Just tilt it downward after removing the 4 bolts from the TB. There is enough room and slack to remove the restrictor plate.

MyownNismo

iTrader: (13)

any SES lights yet. What about my previous question about throttle spacers. Would theat have a effect on our cars.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

This morning I removed this restrictor plate and reset the ECU, along with fiddling with my VIAS a little. Still don't think my VIAS is working, but I believe I noticed the effects of the restrictor plate already.

All butt-dyno based, so take it with a salt mine full of salt.

I'm thinking there was a possible loss of low-end torque, but I'm not sure... I noticed this in 4th gear at lower RPMs. However, scooting around traffic in 1st and especially 2nd gear I notice the car feels more "agile", you feel more punch when you hit the gas. RPMs don't drop as quickly while shifting gears, as I noticed (kinda surprised me).

Then again, the ECU was reset, so this all may change once the ECU's established consistent fuel trim values. In addition, my next tank of gas is going to have 6oz of Amsoil P.I. gas additive so I may notice differences alongside that...

Regime

iTrader: (2)

No SES lights here.
As for the TB spacer question I am not sure. I know spacers gain some HP on certain carb. setups, but I thought that was for the fuel and air to have more time to mix. Since our injectors are further downstream, so again, I am not sure what a spacer would help.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Unless you messed it up somehow and introduced a major vacuum leak, I doubt it. (referring to the SES lights)

I can't imagine a spacer would improve performance on our cars, unless it was some kind of thermally insulative material. But I doubt even that would make a difference, especially at the throttle body.

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

ok well i removed mine just to say i gave it a chance and this is what discovered, according to my butt dyno.

feels like i lost some torque out the whole, guessing its due to the removoal of the extra spacing, fromt he restrictor.

on the other hand when im rolling and i give it she goes alot quicker than before, guessing its due to the inlet size.

at the moment i am resetting the ecu, going to see if that makes any difference. will keep you guys posted.

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

i agree with him completely.

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

ok i reaset the ecu ,and no difference

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Alright, second impressions.

This mod has hurt performance, I believe. I just took a drive out to Altoona, PA (which is one town I won't be visiting for a while, 'cause it sucks ***) and back. I think the ECU figured out its fuel trim values within the first 50 miles or so, 'cause fuel economy got better after that.

All throughout the twisty/steep mountainous curves approaching McConnellsburg, the car felt rather torque-deficient compared to the drive I did the other weekend out there. Just felt like it took longer to pass people going uphill than before. I'll probably put the adapter back in soon.

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

tomorrow i am going to go to the junk yard and retrieve an extra adapter. i am going to try and dremel out the diameter of the whole to match the tb. will let you know how it goes.

vsamoylov

so what u use to make it bigger?

panda_1

iTrader: (4)

dremel. i am going to home depot to buy a couple cutting discs to cut the piece of that goes into the manifold, then i am going to use a grinding bit to widen the whole out.

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

I don't see how that will be much different at all from removing it. The question is, what caused the loss of torque--the lack of the piece that goes into the manifold, or the widened conduit?

IceY2K1

iTrader: (3)

Air velocity at lower RPM could be the torque loss cause.

A wider orfice lowers the air velocity, but also allows less restriction at higher RPM.

I think cutting off the "water slide" part would be a mistake. It's good for directing airflow where you want it to go.

I'd try opening up the hole FIRST.

msdins

I removed the adapter and cleaned the throttle body on Friday night. When I went out Saturday to test drive everything seemed smooth on the way to my friends house. When I got back in the car to leave it was running terrible. If you floor it the RPMs will jump up to about 4500 and the car does nothing, if you ease into it however it will run fine. Will not resetting the ECU possibly have something to do with this? My first thought was that I had blown the MAF but I thought if the MAF was gone the car would run bad all the time. Any suggestions on what I should do?

spirilis

iTrader: (2)

Maybe a vacuum leak, caused by improper reassembly?

msdins

Is there anything that could have worked loose because like I said the first 10 miles everything was great. I took the 4 bolts holding the TB out and that is it.

Galo

I am 'mechaniked' out for a while. This weekend I
- took off the 'thing' (whatever it is) that's the subject of this thread
- cleaned the TB -since it was out anyway
- replaced my gearbox oil with Valvoline Synthetic
- washed & waxed with Pinnacle Souveran...yummy

Then I went to my wife's Taurus SES wagon and
- cleaned and de-greased the engine
- changed oil (synthetic, of course) & filter
- took out that TB and cleaned it as well
- washed and waxed it with Souveran as well

I dont want to touch a car -any car- for 10 days at least. But, I digress..to the IM 'thing'

I'm not so sure I like the removal of the IM thingie. The good 'ol butt dyno does'nt tell me anything definitive good or bad. I did notice the idle speed went up by about 25-50 RPMs -cant figure that one out at all. Logic tells me that indeed, the engine should breathe easier with the thingie out hence give better performance but...maybe it's there, maybe it is'nt. I can tell u this, it's not as noticeable as when I did the timing advance...that was immediately noticeable.

I'm going to keep the thingie off for a few weeks and see how the gas mileage behaves & then I'll decide what to do. Maybe between now and then some enterprising Org member will do a same day 'thingie on, thingie off' dyno. BTW, my '01 does not have the EGR tube....do Cali versions have EGR?

On the synthetic gear oil.....all I can say it that I wish I would have done it sooner as iy does indeed completely transform the shifting....much, much smoother now.

Read this is you wanna feel humbled and depressed: the damn Taurus' TB is MUCH larger than the Max's. Now granted, it's the 200hp twin-cam that drives the wagon to 8 secs flat 0-60, but still, it's humbling to see that my damn family hauling station wagon's TB is larger than the one in the Max....