Pics of my new 17x9 wheels!
#41
i'm still not catching on, but kind of getting what your trying to say.
so my stock tire size is 225/55-17, which holds relatively the same tire size as the 265/40-17's now despite 40mm of extra tire because the vehicle weight hasn't changed. However, the extra rubber gives me more initial bite, but less overall handling?? Remember, the rim is 9 inches wide... I thought that would help in handling along with a 265 tire
so my stock tire size is 225/55-17, which holds relatively the same tire size as the 265/40-17's now despite 40mm of extra tire because the vehicle weight hasn't changed. However, the extra rubber gives me more initial bite, but less overall handling?? Remember, the rim is 9 inches wide... I thought that would help in handling along with a 265 tire
#42
Originally Posted by Larrio
i'm still not catching on, but kind of getting what your trying to say.
so my stock tire size is 225/55-17, which holds relatively the same tire size as the 265/40-17's now despite 40mm of extra tire because the vehicle weight hasn't changed. However, the extra rubber gives me more initial bite, but less overall handling?? Remember, the rim is 9 inches wide... I thought that would help in handling along with a 265 tire
so my stock tire size is 225/55-17, which holds relatively the same tire size as the 265/40-17's now despite 40mm of extra tire because the vehicle weight hasn't changed. However, the extra rubber gives me more initial bite, but less overall handling?? Remember, the rim is 9 inches wide... I thought that would help in handling along with a 265 tire
Your lateral traction has improved by going with a wider wheel/tire combo (which means you can take turns better), and initial bite is better, but continued straight line traction is decreased (it'll be worse in bad weather...rain/sleet/snow). If you were/are boosted, and peak boost didn't hit until say 4000 RPM, then you would break loose with that particular tire combo when the peak TQ is reached (or peak boost...depends on setup and about a million other things).
#44
To verify this, you just jack up the front wheels, wet them, and lower them down on to a piece of cardboard or something for each set of tires? Then measure the lengthxwidth, right?
If I get new rims, I'll definitely do this.
If I get new rims, I'll definitely do this.
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
I tried measuring my own contact patches from both tires, but it was difficult to get a good "print". The shapes were stretched (with the wider tire), though, just like my poorly drawn picture shows...
#47
Originally Posted by HondaKilLR
Larry, any pics of the Difusser? And avalibility to the public? Is there a rear diffuser in the works? Interested..... Peace_
pics are here:
http://larrio.maximaclubca.com/CF
#48
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
To verify this, you just jack up the front wheels, wet them, and lower them down on to a piece of cardboard or something for each set of tires? Then measure the lengthxwidth, right?
If I get new rims, I'll definitely do this.
If I get new rims, I'll definitely do this.
Doh! I'm an idiot...I should have used shoe polish! I didn't have any at the time, but I could do my current setup and find a stock one and compare that way. But to answer your question Icy, yes, a method such as you described would work as long as you are on level ground...
#49
Originally Posted by slammed95
Even if traction were to stay the same, it simply looks bad azz. How many cars do you see properly fitted with 265's? In the front?
The car handles better, that's all that matters.
The car handles better, that's all that matters.
Hey man, I totally agree. I think it looks badazz to the bone. I wanted to run 245/45/17's on 17x8" 's, but that setup looks even better!
#50
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Yes, that's exactly what I am saying. It's a simple matter of physics.
So the contact patch depends on the weight of the vechicle and the PSI in your tires. (pounds per square inch to hold up the car)
3000lbs/35psi = 85.7sq in of contact or 21.4sqin per tire.
BUT.. if you lower the tire pressure you are putting more rubber on the road.
3000lfs/30psi = 100sqin = 25sqin per tire!
#52
Wouldn't that work the same for your STOCK tires also?
Originally Posted by theMax
Actually here is the deal. The weight of your car will not change (good assumption).
So the contact patch depends on the weight of the vechicle and the PSI in your tires. (pounds per square inch to hold up the car)
3000lbs/35psi = 85.7sq in of contact or 21.4sqin per tire.
BUT.. if you lower the tire pressure you are putting more rubber on the road.
3000lfs/30psi = 100sqin = 25sqin per tire!
So the contact patch depends on the weight of the vechicle and the PSI in your tires. (pounds per square inch to hold up the car)
3000lbs/35psi = 85.7sq in of contact or 21.4sqin per tire.
BUT.. if you lower the tire pressure you are putting more rubber on the road.
3000lfs/30psi = 100sqin = 25sqin per tire!
#55
Car looks good and must handle really nice. Wider tires do equal better traction, IF properly setup. I really don't want to get into a debate here, but thats a fact. Do some research on LS1's or Stangs and see what kind of tires they are running.
#57
The wider the better, like Larrio said the rubber is your only contact with the road, I'm dying to put 265 on the car, I was thinking of a staggered set-up 18x 8 in front and 18 x 9 in the rear. The other day I posted my idea of a staggered set-up on a local forum, man oh man, I never been blasted like this before, people where talking thrash of me, saying it doesn't make sense to have a staggered set-up on a front wheel drive, they keep arguing that the car would understeer like crazy, does anyone has a though to share about this idea.
Cheers
AA
Cheers
AA
#58
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Wouldn't that work the same for your STOCK tires also?
#59
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
Car looks good and must handle really nice. Wider tires do equal better traction, IF properly setup. I really don't want to get into a debate here, but thats a fact. Do some research on LS1's or Stangs and see what kind of tires they are running.
Dave
#60
Originally Posted by theMax
Actually here is the deal. The weight of your car will not change (good assumption).
So the contact patch depends on the weight of the vechicle and the PSI in your tires. (pounds per square inch to hold up the car)
3000lbs/35psi = 85.7sq in of contact or 21.4sqin per tire.
BUT.. if you lower the tire pressure you are putting more rubber on the road.
3000lfs/30psi = 100sqin = 25sqin per tire!
So the contact patch depends on the weight of the vechicle and the PSI in your tires. (pounds per square inch to hold up the car)
3000lbs/35psi = 85.7sq in of contact or 21.4sqin per tire.
BUT.. if you lower the tire pressure you are putting more rubber on the road.
3000lfs/30psi = 100sqin = 25sqin per tire!
Actually that doesn't work either. It works for slicks and other DOT style drag radials, but not regular street tires. You're forgetting that street tires are meant for endurance, and are therefore reinforced as such conditions would dictate. Lowering tires pressures too much in a street tire will actually cause you to lose contact patch area due to the severely reinforced tires/sidewalls. The outside section of the patch will take the weight, whilst the center section of the patch will bow/pull inwards. Overinflation causes the opposite effect (bowing the center section out, thus loosing outside patch area-the reinforced part). It's actually easier to blow a tire when over-inslated (duh!) as opposed to under inflated...
#61
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
Car looks good and must handle really nice. Wider tires do equal better traction, IF properly setup. I really don't want to get into a debate here, but thats a fact. Do some research on LS1's or Stangs and see what kind of tires they are running.
Yeah, if by proper setup you're talking drag radials or slicks, proper suspension setup (drag shocks/springs/geometrey), a roll cage that actually helps to change weight bias, corner weights...sure, with all that, it'll work great. It does not mean jack on street cars with street tires with a street suspension...that's the issue here.
#62
That's my POINT~!
Your point wasn't valid, since EITHER tire can increase it's footprint(ignoring Quicksilvers' sidewall post) with lower pressure, ie equal change no matter what tire you have.
So, Quicky is right.
Also, on a launch weight transfer to the REAR of the car and thus RWDs can benefit from wider rims/tires. Our FWD is going to make the front of the car have less weight and therefore FWD tires have less footprint.
Your point wasn't valid, since EITHER tire can increase it's footprint(ignoring Quicksilvers' sidewall post) with lower pressure, ie equal change no matter what tire you have.
So, Quicky is right.
Also, on a launch weight transfer to the REAR of the car and thus RWDs can benefit from wider rims/tires. Our FWD is going to make the front of the car have less weight and therefore FWD tires have less footprint.
Originally Posted by theMax
This will work for any tire. Just be careful, lower tire pressures will generate more heat and can make the tire unsafe. Remember the explorer/firestone issue.
#63
Originally Posted by Quicksilver
Yeah, if by proper setup you're talking drag radials or slicks, proper suspension setup (drag shocks/springs/geometrey), a roll cage that actually helps to change weight bias, corner weights...sure, with all that, it'll work great. It does not mean jack on street cars with street tires with a street suspension...that's the issue here.
#64
Did you see my post above?
RWD vs. FWD and weight transfer on a launch makes a HUGE difference.
RWD vs. FWD and weight transfer on a launch makes a HUGE difference.
Originally Posted by MAX2000JP
I really dont have the time right now, to correct you, but wider tires do help street cars. Again, look at LS1 owners who put much wider, but properly setup, tires on and cut great 60' times.
#65
Originally Posted by IceY2K1
Did you see my post above?
RWD vs. FWD and weight transfer on a launch makes a HUGE difference.
RWD vs. FWD and weight transfer on a launch makes a HUGE difference.
#68
Larry, I got some questions for you:
Do you feel any loss in steering response.. turn in?
Are you able to launch at a higher RPM?
What about steering effort, is it harder to turn the wheel at low speeds?
Is there a tendency for the tires to 'track' along with bumps/grooves in the road?
Did you sell your momma to buy those expensive *** 265's?
looks badazz man but u need centercaps
Do you feel any loss in steering response.. turn in?
Are you able to launch at a higher RPM?
What about steering effort, is it harder to turn the wheel at low speeds?
Is there a tendency for the tires to 'track' along with bumps/grooves in the road?
Did you sell your momma to buy those expensive *** 265's?
looks badazz man but u need centercaps
#69
Originally Posted by Chinkzilla
Larry, I got some questions for you:
Do you feel any loss in steering response.. turn in?
Are you able to launch at a higher RPM?
What about steering effort, is it harder to turn the wheel at low speeds?
Is there a tendency for the tires to 'track' along with bumps/grooves in the road?
Did you sell your momma to buy those expensive *** 265's?
looks badazz man but u need centercaps
Do you feel any loss in steering response.. turn in?
Are you able to launch at a higher RPM?
What about steering effort, is it harder to turn the wheel at low speeds?
Is there a tendency for the tires to 'track' along with bumps/grooves in the road?
Did you sell your momma to buy those expensive *** 265's?
looks badazz man but u need centercaps
-i cheat with vlsd, but i tried to burn out at 3k rpm but it didn't work. The car still took off with moderate/heavy wheel spin
-nope, power steering is your friend
-nope, felt like I was riding on my stock tire size until I started cornering
-265's don't get expensive till you buy s-03's or pilot sports
-centercaps are only for their 15 inch rims
#71
This is why staggered setup is also good for FWD. The front tires maintain a lot of pressure as the contact patch has not changed as much as the rears. With the Maxima, weight distribution is about 60/40. The front wheels get more downward force and this is actually good for launch, bad for cornering/drifting.
With the rear tires being wider, however, bad cornering is compensated because wider tires at the rear reduce understeering.
~limsandy
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09-25-2015 09:11 AM