Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

A couple of you know I'm consternating over parts to pretty much redo my struts, mounts and all that implies.

Ive got the struts and springs but have been in search of all the other OE parts and have been shopping and price comparing for a few weeks now.

But I had a thought last night ... neither the struts (Tokico Illumina) nor the springs (B&G) I'll be using are OE.

My my thought was ... for all the other little parts and pieces, should I really be shopping for OE?

I mean, (for example) if I spend $90 on two rear bellows and bumpers and the bumper diameter doesn't fit the Tokico shaft diameter, I'm gonna be pissed, AND I'm gonna be starting from scratch as far as shopping parts.

Am I making any damn sense?

Those who've done this, please advise.

CS_AR

As you have seen, it's all of the other stuff that drives up to the total cost.

I've used OEM parts with Tokico Blues and Koni Orange without issue. The only problems I've had on a recurring basis is with the following non-OEM parts.

MOOG upper spring insulator mounts. They are the wrong shape and cause rubbing.
non-OEM bellows (do not fit properly and allow water on the shaft)
non-OEM bearings (become noisy after a couple of years)
non-SE OEM top hats. (do not contain the same amount of rubber)

The best suspension job so far has been on the 98 model GLES with SE OEM parts and Koni struts. Also, ask KP how he likes is OEM SE and Koni setup.

I used OEM bellows with KYB AGX and didn't experience an issue with shaft size. It was the non-OEM parts that I used in that KYB AGX job that later came back to bite me.

One of the main things that I learned and applied to the 98 model that makes that suspension exceptional is to properly insulate dead springs so they don't rub and to use the thicker SE type upper (top hat) mounts with OEM bearings.

And before I forget, the Q45 has an all OEM parts with Tokico Blue combination that has been running for seven years without issue. Due to the number operation years and lack of issues, that may be the best yet.

Next Project

I will be replacing struts and related hardware on the 99 model hopefully by week's end with a new Koni OEM setup like KP. The only difference is I will be using existing H & R lowering springs.

Unusable Parts Collected Along The Way

I have the following bellow sets collecting dust.

KYB SB108 and SB104

Febest NSHB-T30F and NRKB-P11

The KYB bellows do not fit like OEM. The Febest bellows fit properly but use a thinner grade of rubber compared to OEM.

KP11520

I have had the original OEM system. KYB GR2s with whatever supplemental consumable non OEM parts. Monroe Quick Strut assembly replacements, Moog Problem Solver Strut assemblies and now back to all OEM everything, except the Koni STR-T (orange) struts. And had the strut mounts and bearings replaced on the Moogs 1 year after installing them.

All I can tell you is everything SUCKED, except where I started and where I am now. The Konis are a more road responding feel and I like them a bit more than OEM struts, which are STUPID priced anyway.

There was a member here years ago that owns Maximum Tuning. He put a blower on his 4th Gen and a 6 speed manual in his car from a newer model. He, as a result, got a LOT of Maximas to work on. I approached him about this whole discussion and he adamantly agrees with CS_AR and me that except for Springs and Struts, everything else needs to be OEM, unless you want some sort of problems and noise way prematurely. He learned the hard way.

So..... Take three deep breaths Slooooooowly. Now imaging in your mind's eye you standing there with a big baseball bat with nails nailed all the way through the hitting area so anything hit will be spiked. Keep breathing sloooooowly, and whenever a stupid thought to go cheap on your strut rebuild floats into your mind, you NEED to beat that idea right out of floating view. In fact, make sure it never comes back. Every Time!

Got it?

GOOD! LOL

Seriously! Reality Check? And your car is beautiful. Mine is a clunker and I just spent $900 doing these myself over the right way finally. What a difference after over 100K of crappy ride and clunking and all kinds of freaking annoying noise.

AND.....OEM strut bearings also let the caster straighten the front wheel so much faster and easier.

maximaxi

The OE hardware should fit your Illuminas with no problem since Tokico made the OEM struts for the 4th gen

Bonka

iTrader: (13)

I've run so many different setups over the years I couldn't have summed it up better than what has been said. Other than springs and shocks, try to go OE for everything else unless you're ok with going over it a second time. I've had issues with aftermarket strut mounts, bearings, dust boots, bellows, what have you. Thank goodness the Macpherson/sold beam setup is so easy to work on.

Any amount of lowering on this chassis really wears out everything quickly.

That being said, those Monroe dust boots/bellows have actually held up nicely compared to the KYBs which were complete trash. Make sure those driveshaft boots are looked at too.

CS_AR

This evening I started replacing/reworking the 99 model's suspension. On inspection, I can see how the bearings would be producing some noise.

One noise source that I found after removing the springs is in the pictures below. You can see where the springs have been grinding.

So I will be insulating these springs on the 99 using KP's method.

Turbobink

iTrader: (2)

My concern isn't the cost. Its the fit of the OE parts along with after markets.

So, I'm still not clear. Are you guys saying that you'd recommend that OE parts be used?

... that was supposed be funny ...

CS_AR

ROLF - Enough procrastinating already. Now here's the goal.

We want you to get that suspension job finished by 12/31/17 so you can celebrate NYE.