maxima297

I've got a 97 maxima SE. took it to a reputable transmission shop. They replaced the clutch, flywheel, slave and master cylinders and the clutch hose. 2 weeks later, they're still trying to figure out why the clutch won't come off the floor. The car isn't losing fluid, but it takes 4 fast pumps to get a quarter way up to put into gear and if driving, you can't stop it unless you pop it into neutral. He thinks it's something to do with the brake booster or proportioning valve but he's not sure because his specialty is transmissions. He did mention that some years back, he had an Eclipse come in with the same problem, and one of the guys found a way to bypass the brake booster and proportioning valve and the clutch worked great after that.

Any ideas? All are welcome. I'm desperate for my car back.

cardana24

iTrader: (81)

Bleed the clutch line again. IMO 4th gen clutch lines are hard to bleed. There is the bleeder at slave cylinder then there is another bleeder on the left side strut tower. If you are sure that all of the air is out of the line then it sounds like you master cylinder is no good.

The forth gen clutch stuff is separate from the brakes, so I really doubt that has anything to do with your problem.

maxima297

That's what I was thinking. He ordered the master and replaced it a week ago and they're still unable to figure out wtf is wrong with my car....I just want my car back.

maxima297

How hard is that SS line to replace? They put a new set of lines on it as well, obviously not the one piece which is what I want. It's been bled for hours and no luck.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

That hydraulic clutch line was designed by some idiot.


It took me 4 hours just to remove it from the donor car (I converted my 96 from auto to manual trans). Then it took me 4 hours to install it in my car, and I kinked one of the lines. I was never able to bleed it.


I bought the one-piece stainless steel braided line and was able to bleed it using the one-man brake bleeder bottle.


For whatever reason, I was unable to get my Mityvac Vacuum pump and hand-pump to properly bleed it. I don't know why.

Diesel_hunter

Yo bro i aint no expert but ive dealt with this SOOO many times on hydro clutches.. 1st bench bleed the master cyl thats crucial, you should barely be able to push the rod by hand with it in a vice.. 2nd go to napa or whatever and get a cheap little brake line bleeder pump tool and use it to "prime" the line between master and release cylinder DO NOT TOUCH THE PEDAL DURING THIS just keep the resevoir of the master filled if it runs dry you have to restart. 3rd you'll need a buddy for this, open the bleeder valve on the release cylinder depress the rod far as possible and hold it there, while you hold it have your buddy press the clutch to the floor and hold it DONT LET GO OF THE ROD YOU PRESSED IN and close the bleeder valve, make sure the resevoir is full and pump the clutch a few times and voila done dadda, never actually done this on the maxi yet but its never failed me. Sometimes you wont get it first try just keep at er if you dont

Diesel_hunter

Also it never hurts to clamp a hose to the bleeder valve, stick it a jug of brake fluid and pump the pedal, keep the res full and eventually you'll push all the air out but never suck any in cause your line is dipped..

Diesel_hunter

If the pedal is limp and gears grind or get stuck its a hydro issue no doubt, for being a trans guy he should know all of this lol... my guess he didnt bench bleed the master correctly, also the rod and clevis on the master is adjustable this may be a contributing factor if not adjusted correctly e.g. its not going far enough to bleed right or its going to far which could ruin your brand new clutch master

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Have someone check the clutch fork for travel. If the fork is moving the full distance at the slave cylinder, then it could be cracked and not moving at the throw out bearing end.

maxima297

I drove it to work this morning. There's a host of new problems that weren't there when I dropped it off. But that's a different story. So, shifting is an experience. Most of the time it grabs right away. Other times I have to double pedal in order to shift into gear. The guy told me there's maybe a quarter of a pedal, which didn't make sense to me because it comes all the way up each time and there's resistance....he thinks there's still air in the line. He replaced both pieces between slave and master. Said he bled for hours. I recall trying to bleed for hours the night before taking it to him, and no go. At least now it's drivable, but never knowing when it's gonna require 2 pushes on the pedal in order to shift is already annoying me, especially since I have to drive through a city and a village to get to work.

maxima297

What also irritated me was his refusal to use the clutch kit and flywheel I ordered from Napa, because he doesn't trust our oem products. And I'm confident the slave and master he replaced aren't oem....I expected my car to drive as well or better than it did when I bought it, not endure the 2 week waiting game just to tear it apart myself in the cold....

ef9

iTrader: (8)

I wouldn't bench bleed the master in a vice. I would bench bleed it after the master is installed in the car.

There is very little clearance to install the master cylinder, you will end up making a mess.

maxima297

Agreed.

Plugged in my obd2 reader and 2 codes pop up: 100 and 110. I pop open the hood and hey, look at this **** the tranny shop did.



Both IAT and MAF sensors were messed with. I wrapped the exposed wires on the IAT with electrical tape, swapped air filters and sprayed the maf with cleaner and erases the codes. Driving it home now....let's see how long it takes to come back on. I know a malfunctioning maf can cause some smoke and there was quite a bit on the drive home, and I've never seen smoke come outta my exhaust before.

JvG

The shop spliced the wires with the red things. They don't hold up over time, and might not connotations now.
I advise removing the red things and solder the wires instead. Then apply brush-on insulation.

maxima297

I'll see if Carl knows how to do that. I don't mess with electrical stuff lol

Its been about 30 miles since I cleared the codes. The light is back on. 136, 400 and 446. One is the rear most o2, not worried about that right now. But the 100 and 110 haven't cone back yet.

JvG

Connection, not connotations. Darn phone!

Gee thought the mechanic, I can't figure out how to remove the
Clip from the air cleaner thing... heck with it. I'll just cut the wires instead. Then splice later.

cashoit

dont forget to adjust the clutch pedal travel too. Im sure the mechanic didnt do it.

Never heard of cutting MAF wires to replace the MAF. Thats a new one. Must be similar to removing the front bumper to do front brakes o

maxima297

The MAF was never replaced....and it's 200 bucks my price at Napa....I'm trying to avoid buying one. Even Carl was appalled when I showed him.

ef9

iTrader: (8)

The red things you speak of are waterproof butt splices. Those are really good because they are hermetically sealed after you heat them up with a heat gun.


If done properly, they last the life of the car.