Spark plug help?
#2
Since this is your first post...
Go ONLY with NGK V-Power, either Platinums (PFR5G-11) or Coppers (BKR5E-11). I kept getting misfires on one cylinder, annoying hesitation, hard starting and power loss until I figured out it was the plugs all along, Bosch Platinums. Replaced them with Coppers and all is well. Gap them to .044.
RockAuto, eBay?
Go ONLY with NGK V-Power, either Platinums (PFR5G-11) or Coppers (BKR5E-11). I kept getting misfires on one cylinder, annoying hesitation, hard starting and power loss until I figured out it was the plugs all along, Bosch Platinums. Replaced them with Coppers and all is well. Gap them to .044.
RockAuto, eBay?
#4
want to change mine tomorrow so i caled autozone to see if they have the v power in stock, they say there's no v power plugs for a 97 maxima?
they say they have laser iridium and regular plugs
checked online at advance auto and they have them....dont know autozone said their no such plud for maxima
they say they have laser iridium and regular plugs
checked online at advance auto and they have them....dont know autozone said their no such plud for maxima
Last edited by blacka69; 03-31-2013 at 07:25 AM.
#5
want to change mine tomorrow so i caled autozone to see if they have the v power in stock, they say there's no v power plugs for a 97 maxima?
they say they have laser iridium and regular plugs
checked online at advance auto and they have them....dont know autozone said their no such plud for maxima
they say they have laser iridium and regular plugs
checked online at advance auto and they have them....dont know autozone said their no such plud for maxima
#6
Since this is your first post...
Go ONLY with NGK V-Power, either Platinums (PFR5G-11) or Coppers (BKR5E-11). I kept getting misfires on one cylinder, annoying hesitation, hard starting and power loss until I figured out it was the plugs all along, Bosch Platinums. Replaced them with Coppers and all is well. Gap them to .044.
RockAuto, eBay?
Go ONLY with NGK V-Power, either Platinums (PFR5G-11) or Coppers (BKR5E-11). I kept getting misfires on one cylinder, annoying hesitation, hard starting and power loss until I figured out it was the plugs all along, Bosch Platinums. Replaced them with Coppers and all is well. Gap them to .044.
RockAuto, eBay?
#10
okay so i have 2 more questions. One, how important is gapping the correct distance ".044" on the spark plugs? I think i gapped them correctly using autozones coin gapping tool but it just doesnt really seem like it honestly made that much of a difference. And two, does it matter if i change the front three spark plugs but not the back? i have already put everything back together but just in case i may have to run small errands soon so is it imperative that i change the back three too or what?
#11
I work at Autozone and can say without a doubt that they have them (perhaps not in stock however). Have them cross-reference BKR5E-11 (or just tell them you want 6 NGK 6953's -- stock #) and they will come up without a doubt. If they just don't have them in stock you could have them order them from the hub store early one day and they should have them same day.
#12
I work at Autozone and can say without a doubt that they have them (perhaps not in stock however). Have them cross-reference BKR5E-11 (or just tell them you want 6 NGK 6953's -- stock #) and they will come up without a doubt. If they just don't have them in stock you could have them order them from the hub store early one day and they should have them same day.
#13
okay so i have 2 more questions. One, how important is gapping the correct distance ".044" on the spark plugs? I think i gapped them correctly using autozones coin gapping tool but it just doesnt really seem like it honestly made that much of a difference. And two, does it matter if i change the front three spark plugs but not the back? i have already put everything back together but just in case i may have to run small errands soon so is it imperative that i change the back three too or what?
You don't have to replace all 6 plugs at the same time. If you need to drive the car before you can get them all changed, that's ok. Just don't forget about finishing the job.
#14
You want to have the spark plugs gapped as close to specification as you can. The gap size has been calculated to give the biggest spark under the most severe operating conditions. Going larger or smaller could reduce performance. Having all the spark plugs the same will allow all the cylinders to perform equally.
You don't have to replace all 6 plugs at the same time. If you need to drive the car before you can get them all changed, that's ok. Just don't forget about finishing the job.
You don't have to replace all 6 plugs at the same time. If you need to drive the car before you can get them all changed, that's ok. Just don't forget about finishing the job.
#17
well i just got the second coil off the middle back row of spark plugs and its the same as the left one, it doesnt seem to budge. i havent forced them in anyway for them to be like that. It seems like the same socket i used for the fronts wont grab on to the back or something like it turns both ways but doesnt seem to grip. Its not that it wont loosen up because theyre too tight, but more as them not getting any grip at all. ive seen countless videos saying they use the same method as front.
#18
another good thing to do is to crack the plugs loose and then start up thee engine and give it a good rev. If you dont you can pull carbon deposits up through the threads and eff them up. NGK Coppers FTW if you dont mind keeping up with maintenance as they perform better and are cheaper
#19
What's up with all these AZ lovers? Orielly carries NGK copper, Platnium, Iridium.....Bosch doesn't work in Japanese vehicles nor in force inducted vehicles.....I'm running E3's in my 98 Maxima and They're doing really good!
#22
well i just got the second coil off the middle back row of spark plugs and its the same as the left one, it doesnt seem to budge. i havent forced them in anyway for them to be like that. It seems like the same socket i used for the fronts wont grab on to the back or something like it turns both ways but doesnt seem to grip. Its not that it wont loosen up because theyre too tight, but more as them not getting any grip at all. ive seen countless videos saying they use the same method as front.
#23
The same socket works because it is the same spark plug if all cylinders. What may have happened to you is that the boot that fits over the end of the spark plug may have come off the coil. This does happen and when it does, it keeps the socket from sliding all the way down onto the plug.
#25
Two things - it looks like the spark plug tube is not seated in the valve cover but I don't think that is preventing you from getting the socket on the plug.
It looks like something got dropped over the plug's porcelain tower that is wider than the metal hex base of the plug. I can't tell what it might be.
Can you touch it with a long, thin screwdriver and see if it moves freely? Maybe by using 2 long, narrow hooks you could lift it off?
It looks like something got dropped over the plug's porcelain tower that is wider than the metal hex base of the plug. I can't tell what it might be.
Can you touch it with a long, thin screwdriver and see if it moves freely? Maybe by using 2 long, narrow hooks you could lift it off?
#26
Two things - it looks like the spark plug tube is not seated in the valve cover but I don't think that is preventing you from getting the socket on the plug.
It looks like something got dropped over the plug's porcelain tower that is wider than the metal hex base of the plug. I can't tell what it might be.
Can you touch it with a long, thin screwdriver and see if it moves freely? Maybe by using 2 long, narrow hooks you could lift it off?
It looks like something got dropped over the plug's porcelain tower that is wider than the metal hex base of the plug. I can't tell what it might be.
Can you touch it with a long, thin screwdriver and see if it moves freely? Maybe by using 2 long, narrow hooks you could lift it off?
#28
You probably should replace those coil stems - yes, they are replaceable.
They are called coil boots or spark plug boots. Cylinders 1, 3, 5 use a longer one than cylinders 2, 4, 6.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...0090%2b2090038
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...762&cc=1211443
They are called coil boots or spark plug boots. Cylinders 1, 3, 5 use a longer one than cylinders 2, 4, 6.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Re...0090%2b2090038
http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...762&cc=1211443
#29
German Shi+ plus Shi+ seems to work...I've tried them in a supercharged Bonneville and they ran worst than the plugs we were replacing....I also ran them in my 74 Toyota Celica and my car didn't ran worth a shi+.....try them you might like "em"
#32
#35
I just ordered my spark plugs last night, gonna get it done once they arrive. I would recommend the NGK Iridium plugs, best bang for the money they work really great and definitely a big improvement over OEM plugs.
My boy just bought a new 02 Maxima 6MT that needs lots of luv (still had original OEM plugs, just like mine), so we went with the NGK Iridium and the car runs awesome.
BUT, DON'T EVER go to AutoZone or Advanced or NAPA or any of these places to buy them (that's for any plug, not just the expensive ones), it's gonna cost you like $13 a piece. Go online and look, you can find the NGK Iridiums for like $10/pc some places.
And if you know anyone that owns a repair shop and has a parts account at the local supplier, give that person a call. I ordered my plugs @ $8 a piece from my dads friend (owns auto repair shop) and regular price is $13, saving myself a whole damn $30 on 6 plugs! BTW, I got the plugs from the same supplier that AutoZone and Advanced use @ their price. And they were gonna rip me off!
Also, it's not a good idea to use any Bosch plugs on the Maxima, or any platinum tipped plugs for that matter. You want either Nissan OEM or NGK plugs. Also, MAKE SURE that you gap them properly (it's very important) to .044 as well as torque them properly (NEVER over-tighten) to I believe it should be 19-21 lb-ft (FSM).
And lastly, before installing new plugs -- make sure you look in the holes and clean off any carbon deposits (especially anywhere around the threads and the very bottom where the plug sits) because if you leave it there it can cause your plugs to sit improperly and will misfire.
My boy just bought a new 02 Maxima 6MT that needs lots of luv (still had original OEM plugs, just like mine), so we went with the NGK Iridium and the car runs awesome.
BUT, DON'T EVER go to AutoZone or Advanced or NAPA or any of these places to buy them (that's for any plug, not just the expensive ones), it's gonna cost you like $13 a piece. Go online and look, you can find the NGK Iridiums for like $10/pc some places.
And if you know anyone that owns a repair shop and has a parts account at the local supplier, give that person a call. I ordered my plugs @ $8 a piece from my dads friend (owns auto repair shop) and regular price is $13, saving myself a whole damn $30 on 6 plugs! BTW, I got the plugs from the same supplier that AutoZone and Advanced use @ their price. And they were gonna rip me off!
Also, it's not a good idea to use any Bosch plugs on the Maxima, or any platinum tipped plugs for that matter. You want either Nissan OEM or NGK plugs. Also, MAKE SURE that you gap them properly (it's very important) to .044 as well as torque them properly (NEVER over-tighten) to I believe it should be 19-21 lb-ft (FSM).
And lastly, before installing new plugs -- make sure you look in the holes and clean off any carbon deposits (especially anywhere around the threads and the very bottom where the plug sits) because if you leave it there it can cause your plugs to sit improperly and will misfire.
#37
There are many types of "platinum" plugs. The NGK platinums that you refer to are the LASER PLATINUMS, while the "platinum tipped" are just a regular plug with a platinum tip (g power NGK for example)
I when someone recommends iridiums in a car that is almost a decade old and mostly stock...no real need for them, iridiums are for boosted / FI / extremely high compression engines.
NGK Laser Platinums are OEM for our cars.
And if you "gap" anything but copper plugs yourself using that cheap gapper tool you're likely to damge the electrode. Plats (and yes, iridiums too) can't be gapped that way easily.
I when someone recommends iridiums in a car that is almost a decade old and mostly stock...no real need for them, iridiums are for boosted / FI / extremely high compression engines.
NGK Laser Platinums are OEM for our cars.
And if you "gap" anything but copper plugs yourself using that cheap gapper tool you're likely to damge the electrode. Plats (and yes, iridiums too) can't be gapped that way easily.
Last edited by Amerikaner83; 06-24-2013 at 07:42 AM.
#38
Yes this thread is laughable. You do all that work and reinsert used plugs.. Don't buy plugs at autoparts stores? Lol. Bosch plugs are garbage, the tops of them can unscrew easily and they are non-magnetic. If for some strange reason it unscrews and falls in the chamber when you remove the spark plug..well good luck with that. I ran bosch plugs in my turbo, they spark, but it is a poorly engineered plug, at least the ones I had anyway. If you are not under the hood much then get iridiums, if you tinker quite a bit get ngk coppers. They are cheap, about $12 for the set, good, and I change mine every couple years.
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