delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

After my valve job my automatic transmission, around the inhibitor switch is buzzing once I turn the key. I don't even need to turn on the car:



To be fair I did spray a good amount of engine degreaser to clean up the oil build up.

Also my radiator fans are not turning on either. Maybe the two issues are related?

Thanks

maxed_out_99

trans fluid level and condition?
does the trans shift fine?
if you wiggle the shifter does the noise go away?

to me it sounds like a solenoid is sticking. or possibly a relay but usually when a relay takes a crap it just doesnt work i hardly ever see them make noise.

it is a strong possibility that a bad relay is causing you cooling fan issue.

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

thanks for the input. I will be checking the three cooling fan relays tomorrow using what I found in the FSM.

Also when i step on the accelerator the buzzing noise goes away like about 85%.

How do I check the big transmission solenoid? It looks scary.

I am able to change gears though I have only changed the gear while the car is completely off, never changed gears while the car is running. I will try tomorrow.

I will checked the transmission fluid tomorrow. Though I must note that before the valve job the transmission ran fine without any issues.

Could the A33 throttle body and or A33 IACV be causing any issues, recall that the buzzing noise kind of goes away when i step on the gas.

Thanks

EDIT 01:
Tomorrow my mechanic's stethoscope comes in. I ordered it from Amazon:


Hopefully I will be able to diagnose as to where the noise is coming from with some greater confidence.

maxed_out_99

theres more than 1 solenoid theres 5. if it is a solenoid more thank likely it will be the line pressure solenoid, and you will have shifting issues. is the sound coming from the transmission oil pan?


make sure you actually drive it

check the trans fluid on level ground with the car running and at operating temp or your readings will be off

the IACV can cause a buzzing noise. with the wheels on the ground turn the steering wheel and see if it goes away. if it does replace the IACV

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

Yes the noise im almost sure its from inside the transmission pan. When I touch the transmission pan I can feel it vibrate.

I am going to remove the 00vi for the time being while I trouble shoot this buzzing issue.

I will update with more info tomorrow. maxed_out_99 for the help

maxed_out_99

drive it dude. let me know how it shifts. im starting to think you need a line pressure solenoid

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

where the heck is the pressure solenoid? Also I have what appears to be a ambient hose coming out of the transmission that I dont know what it is or where to connect it to. Any ideas?

EDIT 01:
I found where the line pressure solenoid is at:

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

If that buzzing noise is still there when the car is running, then that's not normal. I sometimes get that noise if I turn the key to ON and leave it for a few minutes. After it starts, it should go away. All my gears shift fine also.

maxed_out_99

the hose is a breather. it has no place it just chills and when the pressures get to high it vents to the atmosphere

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

Thank you. I thought it was a breather hose too because the end of the hose looked as if it had never been connected to anything.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Regarding the radiator fans, it is more likely that you have bad fans then bad relays.

First, start the car and turn on the air conditioner. BOTH radiator fans should be running, even with a cold engine. NOTE: the a/c will not turn on if the outside temp is below 35 degrees.

If the fans are not running, check some fuses. There are 2 fuses under the hood, next to the battery, labeled RAD FAN 1 and RAD FAN 2. These fuses are the power to the fans, one is for low speed and the other is for high speed. Then in the car, check fuse # 17, middle column 6th from the bottom. This fuse supplies power to the energizing coils of the relay.

If fuses are good, get a voltmeter and check voltage at the fan motor connector. The white/black stripe wire should be 12 volts when the fan should be running such as when the a/c is on. NOTE: the white/black stripe wire is the Nissan wire harness color, the pigtail wire attached to the motor is not the same. If you have 12 volts, then the motor is bad.

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

Okay so the fans are working now. I did change Relay-01. However it may be that I was not testing the fans correct when the car was on. With the new relay-01 I turned on the A/C full blast and both fans turned on.

Okay so I test drove the car. First off I removed all the 00vi stuff. The car idles very very rough.
This is me trying to idle the car:


I did remove the EGR. I did not have anything to block off the EGR plate on the UIM so I connected the EGR tube with the sensor and I put some rags on the other end of the EGR tube. I then put several (i think four) tie straps across the rags. Please also note that I did clean the IACV couple weeks ago. I heard that cleaning the IACV sometimes causes issues. This may be causing the rough idle.

My exhaust also is making a lot of ugly noise. It is not quiet.

I did not connect the two radiator hoses to the throttle body. Is this okay? Should I go ahead and connect the throttle body to the two radiator hoses? Will it make a difference?


Okay so my automatic transmission concerns.
The car shakes pretty bad when I put the car in drive. It shift hard/bad and even causes the car to turn off:


Here is the actual quick test drive:
The power steering is very hard and the brakes do not respond correct.



I did use my mechanics stethoscope and I do hear that the buzzing noise is from the transmission pan or something inside. I do have the stuff to do a transmission fluid change:

Should I first change the transmission fluid with my red line ATF or should I use some other less expensive ATF for the mean time? Reviewing the FSM it appears that the five solenoid's are inside the transmission pan. Maybe I will benefit alot by removing the transmission pan.

Thanks

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

You have a lot of work to do here....first off, lets get some investigating done here. Was there a reason for removing the 00VI?? I see your check engine light on. Scanned for codes? Your car is cutting off because the idle adjustment was not done properly. Power steering hard to move due to low fluid, air in the line, or belt tension? If those check out, then paybe the pump is defective. Brakes not working properly? You need to elaborate more on that. First check your rotors and see if you have a shiny surface on all wheels. If there is rust after driving, that is an indication of your guide pins needing to regrease or your caliper is seizing...

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

I removed the 00vi because the transmission area was making a buzzing noise. The buzzing noise would kind of completely go away when I stepped on the accelerator.

I will check on the engine codes in a little bit.

The brakes were very hard and did not want to stop the car. It is as if the brake system did not have enough pressure. My rotors (drilled and slotted) and pads are ceramic. They are around 8 months old and work before me working on the car. I only removed one wheel while working on my car. Before putting on the wheel I cleaned the rotors from and back and then put on the wheel (front right).

I will check the power steering tensioner and cables tomorrow. But both belts are brand new.


I had my rack and pinion rebuilt around 6 months ago. There "shouldn't" be any problems with the steering rack and pinon. Perhaps its the pump. I will take a quicker look tomorrow.


Thanks

EDIT 01: Another reason I removed the 00vi was because I did the valve job and the 00vi at the same time.


EDIT 02: Maybe since I removed the EGR components I should not have the EGR sensor in the actual EGR tube while the other end of the EGR tube is "plugged"? Maybe this is causing issues with my idle?

EDIT 03: The hole in the exhaust manifold for the EGR I plugged up good:





EDIT 04: I just checked the error codes. No codes reported so I cleared the computer:

maxed_out_99

ok.. heres the deal,

the enigine is running rough and dies because you have a MASSIVE vacuum leak. this is why your brake pedal is hard. there is not enough vacuum to fill the brake booster.

heres what i would do;
replace the egr tube and everything else you left disconnected. the vacuum leak is being caused by the gaping hole in the back of the manifold. rag and zip ties aint gonna do ****. think of vacuum like water, if you think the manifold would leak water if you filled it then it will for sure leak vacuum.
same goes for the exhaust. reconnect the egr tube

replace the line pressure solenoid then refill the trans with nissan matic D. valvoline is an acceptable substitute.

your max should be runnig top notch then

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

How could there be no codes stored and the light is on in your video???

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

Okay I will change my transmission fluid and line pressure solenoid.

In regards to the EGR components. I kind of broke the A32 EGR tube that connects to the exhaust manifold. Now that I know the buzzing is not being caused by my 00vi I will put back my 00vi. I will be going to a machine shop today to have a proper A33 EGR block plate made for the A33 UIM. I will also have a IACV adapter made as well as a A33 throttle body IACV block plate.

I don't know why the engine light is on but there are no codes. I will check the codes again however this time manually by turning that dial that reports errors with the blinking CEL.

Thanks everyone!

maxed_out_99

im willing to bet you have an assload of codes due to the vacuum leak. like 7 or 8

map sensor, map solenoid, system lean bank 1, system lean bank 2, o2 sensor 1 bank 1, 02 sensor 1 bank 2, maf, and random multiple cylinder missfire.

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

I found today that the A32 LIM was cracked slightly. There goes my stock setup. Tomorrow I will setup the 00vi. I found that my A33 throttle body was utterly filthy. I cleaned it all today.

I bought Nissan Matic D today and will be changing the transmission fluid tomorrow.

In regards to the automatic transmission buzzing noise. I did replace the two oil cooler lines and I would like to verify which hose goes where. I lost the two original lines so I do not have a frame of reference. I would like to verify that the top/higher hose connector on the transmission goes to the left radiator hose connector and the lower hose connector on the transmission goes to the far right of the radiator hose connector.

Thanks

jholley

iTrader: (13)

The lower hose that is bolted is feeding the radiator and the upper hose with the clip-on is the ATF return line hose. From the drivers seat view the return line hose connects to the left of the radiator and the feeding hose connects to the right.

If you need to replace those solenoids you can a new set for the RE4F04A in an upgrade package for only $80 31940-80x25

I can also ship you a used set that worked fine for around $30.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

oh my fukcing lord... why are you touching your car dude? take it to a shop or something for gods sake. its like a kid playing with legos....

user name001

I roughly read this whole thread, i watched only the first video and i had the exact same buzzing noise, have you played around with your TPS at all? Originally mine made no buzzing noise, i was having transmission issues so i adjusted my TPS, it was set at .48 and i moved it up to .70 and when i had key on engine off it would give me that buzzing noise, and like you said would go away when throttle was applied. I would check you voltage readings on your TPS, i bet its waay too high. I dont know if that buzzing noise is a normal sound, but i do know that other maximas WILL give off a buzzing noise with key on engine off if you pull the throttle cable slowly even if they arent making the noise at closed position.

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

Thank you for your input. I did a valve job and the 00vi mod. The buzzing started when I turned the key to the ON position with the following 00vi setup:

A33 Throttle Body
A33 IACV
A33 UIM
A33 LIM
A33 Fuel Fail
A33 Fuel Injectors
Greddy E-Manage Blue

I took off all the 00vi stuff and went back to stock. With the stock setup the buzzing noise was 100% gone then I just left the key on the ON position and after about a minute the buzzing returned but about 50% the noise level as with the 00vi setup.

I found that my A33 throttle body and A33 sensors were filthy and I have since cleaned it. I am installing the 00vi back now to test.


I will retest and check the TPS using the following numbers for 2000 Infiniti I-30:


Thanks a million user name001!

jholley

iTrader: (13)

When you receive the shift solenoids tomorrow here are some tips for installing them.

NTB98-049d

NTB98-043

valve-body-install

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...solenoids.html

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

Okay,

I installed the solenoids and i still get the buzzing noise. Should I just get used to the noise?

Maybe after some more test driving the car the noise will go away.

maxed_out_99

the only other issue i can think of that would cause that is a misadjusted shifter cable or trans range switch. put the car in neutral does the buzzing go away?
put it in part and wiggle the shifter.
does the noise go away?

delacruz_17

iTrader: (1)

The problem is now intermittent:



The buzzing noise sometimes doesn't happen while other times its there. In the above video I did not wiggle the shifter but I did try to wiggle and the buzzing noise did not go away.