americanclassicg

My passenger side CV boot is ripped. Not just cracked, but torn in two. Its not clicking yet, but in december Im taking the old girl to North Carolina, and would hate for something to break somewhat far from home, so I want to replace it now.

I have heard that one sides axle requires you to remove the other axle, and pushing it out. My question is, is this true, and if so, is it the passenger side that requires this?

Thanks

asand1

iTrader: (1)

The passenger side requires that you remove three bolts, whether it be seperating the carrier bearing from bracket or bracket from engine block. After that the axle slips right out of the trans. I prefer seperating the bearing from bracket (three 13 or 14mm bolts using a gear wrench).
Some say that you need to remove the passenger side to tap out the driver side. I had no problem just prying the driver side out with a long enough prybar.
If you have more time than money and are mechanically inclined, replace just the boot as long as its still tight and quiet. I would much rather have an OEM shaft with replacement boot, than an aftermarket or reman.

iDuty

Just to add my two cents to the excellent response from asand1, on the passenger side I could not separate the carrier from the bracket while it was mounted, I had to unbolt the bracket from the engine block and remove it all. With the whole thing out on the floor I was able to tap the bracket off of the bearing.

americanclassicg

Thanks guys. I think Im going to do the whole thing, as its only about $50 for a new axle from autozone.

Now, I just need to figure out if I have a locking differential, and find the time/motivation to do it. Haha.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

Im in the process of changing my passenger side axle too, and I also cant get the carrier from the old axle to come apart.. that biaachh is fused together. I was under the car with 5lb hammer and chisel waking at it for an hour and I got it budge about 1/8 inch To remove that bracket is it only two bolts? Those look fused in as well and I was told by Marty from Raxles not to remove the bracket.

M in KC

Yo can remove the pass side without touching the driver's side CV. I guess I got lucky when I had to replace my pass. side CV axles as I just used the whole axle assembly as a slide hammer and eventually it all came out. When you do finally get yours out you might consider replacing the transmission seal while you have access to it. You should be able to pry the old one out and tap the new one in.

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

If it is the bracket that is about in the middle of the axle, there are 3 bolts, spaced evenly around it. I used a socket on a 12" extension, then a u-joint then a 6" extension on the ratchet. You go in from the transmission side, over the engine cross member.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

I had no problem removing the three bolts on the carrier bracket on the old axle
My problem is separating the old axle from carrier housing. Its frozen together.. Im gonna keep soaking it PB blaster all this week and give it another round this weekend.

slfalco

I had the same problem when I changed my passenger axle... I used a small flat blade screwdriver and hammer and finally got the axle to move a tiny bit (1/8 inch).. then I used progressively larger screwdrivers, then finally a chisel to continue to spread the gap until it popped out. Patience is the key, as well as PB blaster... I could not really get at the bolts that held the bracket to the engine block, car was not on a lift...

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

Thanks for the tip.. I been hitting with blaster until I continue my attack on it this weekend. Im also gonna try gently a hammer drill with a chisel bit and see it that
breaks it loose a bit more.. that is if I can fit the hammer drill under there. Mine is also on jack stands.. no lift. If that doesnt work I'll keep with the 5lb hammer and chisel. Eventually it will pop out just a matter of time.

maxprivate

iTrader: (12)

Update... PB blaster.. thats all I can say. Made a world of a difference. Kept soaking the bracket assembly everyday till It was time to go work. Old axle popped right out in a matter of minutes.

Anyone doing the passenger side CV axle in the future, soak it a few days with PB blaster before attempting to hammer it out with a chisel. It will come out fairly easy. Saves a lot of time and frustration. I bought the large container of PB blaster and it even came with a metal spray bottle. I just sprayed it on the carrier bracket/flange ( however you wanna call it) and let it sit. Once its time to do the job wont have the problem I had.

Aleffewmo

I would recommend you get a new shaft seal as well. I ignored the seals when I did both my CVs and when they were put back together I was leaking gear oil.

Danimal94

Fair warning, im a 5th gen noob. replaced driver side axle about a year ago due to a ripped boot, axle was only $60. No argument there. I also had to go through all the BS of the bearing bracket because my output shaft seals were leaking. New seals and a new driver side axle.
About a month later, the outer boot ripped on passenger side. I got lucky and was able to just replace the torn boot by pulling the CV off the shaft.
Its a relief that i didn't run to any troubles with the bearing bracket.