carcollector

I bought a car with the engine all apart and got it back together and it runs (kinda hard to start without pressing the gas pedal wot) but when I first drove it the car was definitely stuck in third gear without any check engine light... now after starting the light comes on with codes 0304 1005 1108 1201 1203 1204, and I have reset ecu several times and got a 0503 and 0303 code too on an isolated start... I replaced the knock sensor during gasket repair and have rechecked the connector. I need help bad because my whole life is riding on this car right now - I had a maxima before and it was good but this one is killing me and costing me friendships etc so I am starting to hate it. If you have any idea what the problem could be please chime in. The OD light flashes 16 times when you start it too. WTF?

asand1

iTrader: (1)

If I were at home I might research all those codes for you. But I'm not so I can't spend an hour of my life spoonfeeding you an answer. Look the codes up and find out what you didn't assemble/plug in correctly.

ryandaiber

did you use a generic scanner to look at the codes? i hate to say take it to the dealer but the CONSULT II, which is nissan/infiniti specific scan tool can access a lot more information then the generic. i have access to one since im an infiniti tech and can view a TON more information. Trans, BCM, ABS, Engine, SRS, Etc. maybe there is some trans codes they can find to point you in the right direction.

carcollector

I checked the codes by turning the switch on the computer and counted the blinks... I have checked every plug and ground and they are all connected. I cannot find info on the 12-- codes whatsoever on this site, and I am not sure if I need to convert the ecu flashes to an obd scanner code to diagnose. I am actually a master tech since 1985 and was a service manager for 11 different manufacturers except Nissan so I know the problem is electrical, and I put it back together right. I can't even get it to start out in first and then go into limp mode, it just takes off in third no matter what I do including resetting ecu. I also couldn't find a solid answer about the flashing of OD light and cannot get it to perform the trans diagnostic sequence. I have been reading prior posts and banging my head for three days now. Also I have no multimeter or good tools with me in Florida where me and the car is

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

Why are you sure it is electrical? A lot of times it is not a bad coil just a broken wire on the coil clip. Check those out. Moving an old harness around can crack some things. Go buy a cheap multimeter and check continuity and power

carcollector

I am a little concerned about the harness itself because because it was moved out of the way to get to the head gaskets, but what I mean by electrical is that I am pretty sure there is no internal damage to the trans, and it is an electrical connection or wiring or sensor. It pulls good and the engine is powerful enough to take off in third and I got it to 65mph without a check engine light on my first test drive... I drove it 9 miles like that and I could put it 1st at any speed and it would stay in 3 rd ( no cel until quite a few starts and test drives then it started tripping codes and now it always sets the above codes )

asand1

iTrader: (1)

You've read though this? https://maxima.org/showthread.php?p=8020045#post8020045

carcollector

Yes I did... the first multiple post really confused me so I never made it to the bottom. And the 1005 code was for a 99, and the 1108 link was n/a and 1201 1203 1204 links were bad . I did `just`` find this link http://boredmder.com/ecucodes/index....Y1995&DTC=0000 at the bottom of that page past all of the multiple post that basically says voltage to all solenoids and converter is not good for the 12 codes which is what I suspected but couldn't confirm, and I see that the other codes (egr solenoid,knock sensor) mean that there might be a problem with the harness since those all are at the back of the engine..

I read that neither the knock sensor or the egr solenoid could cause a 3rd gear limp mode, but that info may be incorrect like some of the info I read through

I clean the crap out of the egr, solenoid is connected, I replaced the knock sensor and rechecked the short harness, I have unplugged and replugged all trans connectors and checked the TCM and even swapped the ECU with one I got with the car in the trunk full of parts bought from a junkyard last may.... I added ground wires per a TSB I found.

My question is I guess is it the harness or a ground ? And if it is a harness issue is it voltage or ground ? open or a short?

What I haven't done is strip the harness to inspect but I was saving that for a last hope...

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The codes you posted are the blinking check engine light codes - right? Assuming I am right, here is what they are:
0304 = P0325 knock sensor
1005 = P1400 EGRC solenoid/v
1108 = P0750 Shift solenoid A
1201 = P0755 Shift solenoid B
1203 = P1760 O/R clutch solenoid
1204 = P0740 TCC (Torque Converter Clutch) solenoid

Of the codes you posted (0304 1005 1108 1201 1203 1204) the last 4 (1108 1201 1203 1204) are for the auto trans. And interestingly enough, all 4 of those solenoids are on the same one electrical connector. I'm thinking that the connector is not plugged into the transmission. I'm also thinking that if you plug in the connector for the shift solenoids, the blinking OD light will also go away and probably the limp mode.

The Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTC) can be found in the index of the EC section of the Nissan FSM (Factory Service Manual). Both the OBD II P codes and the blinking light codes. In the case of the auto trans codes, you are given the page number in the AT (Automatic Transaxle) section, they are not explained in the EC section.

If you don't have a FSM and would like to download one, go here:

http://boredmder.com/FSMs/Nissan/Maxima/

And one last request - please tell us what the year model of the car is when you post a problem situation. Nissan introduced revisions all through the 5 years of 4th gen Maxima production.

ryandaiber

too bad the car isn't in my shop right now. i could call tech line and find out what the o/d light flashing means. never ran across that problem before. tech line works miracles sometimes. just cant call without the proper paperwork. let us know if you figure out whats going on. although it sounds like you may have a couple problems. you can probably find a cheap solenoid pack on ebay. i would recommend replacing hat and going from there. atleast hopefully that will solve your limp mode problem.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Proof that your work needs to be double-checked. I must agree with Dennis in that the harness for the tranny has not been reconnected or is not seated properly. Once it is connected only two codes should remain which may be P1400 and P0325. From there, you can diagnose those easily.

carcollector

one last bit of possibly very important info is that after reassembly I realized the Main batt fuse was blown... the prior owner said before the gasket blew water came from the weep hole and fried the alternator, he had a used one from the junk yard with the parts. with that fuse blown the fans wouldnt kick on and it blew a gasket in his driveway after rrunning it ten minutes trying to figure out where the coolant was coming from... would this have shorted out that solenoid pack?`

and btw I really want to thank everybody who is trying to help.

I am going to check the harness and the solenoid pack now

ryandaiber

you can't always trust what the previous owner is telling you when they're the ones trying to get some money out of your pocket for a car that's a burden to them. they will tell you whatever they can to get rid of the car. they may be trying to disguise a big problem as a little one so you think your getting a good "mechanics special"

carcollector

well I did find a crushed wire leading to the center plug at the right/rear side of the trans, it was red. I also repaired a black wire at the connector...

NO MORE LIMP MODE !!

Also, NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHT !

the only thing I noticed wrong was a bog between gears at first, and after a harsh kickdown it almost stalled on the upshift, and after a hard right turn, but the gas guage is pegged on Empty so I assume its just very low on gas... I HOPE

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

Good to hear! How long did the car sit? The gas may be loosing its oomph.

carcollector

actually it has been sitting almost six months now, which included some very hot summer months. I will get fresh gas in it tommorrow

this car has been rough on me. The initial gasket replace and reassembly went ok after I removed 4 broken bolts that the prior owner broke, and cleaned up the cylinder walls from the water that had sat in them for god knows how long... and then i had water pouring from the weep hole so I replaced the waterpump and it still poured, and after taking of the timing chain and both covers 4 times I realized it was coming from the bottom of the pump hole between the block and rear cover right where the little groove was at the bottom although it had been resealed so I ended up JBwelding that and then the main fuse was blown, and then a valve cover leak... basically the engine got very very hot and warped the rear cover and the front valve cover too(ireplaced the front cover)... its a 95 with 133000 miles and looks great inside and out and only paid 300 for it. I think im going to sell it and buy a white 98 from a neighbor to actually drive and depend on though.. my corvettes have given me less trouble over years than this did in afew weeks, watch out for mechanics specials. anybody else would have scrapped my maxima and I do hope the JBweld holds for a long long time or I will problably smash it to bits

Dsquared97maxse

the jb quickweld should hold for a while, ive seen people repair engine blocks with that s**t lol