kroze

Within 1 year of ownership (117k miles to now @ 127k miles), the following has been done to my 99 Maxima. Talk about sweat equity huh? This is why I don't want to get another car, I've already fix or replaced almost everything that could go wrong with the car.

- 4 New tires, balance & aligned
- Steering rack replaced
- All 4 Struts replaced
- All brakes & rotors replaced
- Every single bushings related to suspension replaced, if it's underneath the car, it was

replaced.
- Radiator replaced
- Alternator Replaced
- Intake manifold gasket & Valve cover gasket & spark plug tube seals replaced
- 6 Coil packs replaced
- 6 Spark plugs replaced
- IACV replaced
- A/C & Alternator belts replaced
- Driver side wheel bearing replaced

- Air, PCV, Fuel filter replaced
- Transmission, Coolant, and Brake fluids flushed.

- Antenna replaced
- CD Player replaced
- Headlights replaced

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

gezzz, I"m at 193,000 and have only had 1/3 of that replaced.

nsnrider

iTrader: (59)

thats a nice list, hopefully it looks as good as it should drive with all those new parts.

why were you thinking of getting rid of it in the first place?

hvyft

iTrader: (2)

my 97 just rolled over 162k, and I have done about 1/3 of that list too, but you replaced the front driver wheel bearing @ 127k...my original fronts are good, but i had to replace both of my rears around 155k.

When something goes out, i like to replace with OEM (which i hope you did for the coil packs and gaskets/seals at least!) or if theres a performance upgrade for the part that goes out, i go for it.

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

sounds like the previous owner really neglected it. Thats a lot of stuff.

kroze

I've been having problems with it lately and unable to diagnose what's the cause of it. I'm unable to diagnose because the problem is sporadic and random. But I got good news tonight...

The problem is now apparent and predictable, hopefully you guys can figure this one out.

When my car is at operating temperature (needle is in the middle on the temperature gauge) and I put it in Park or Neutral, the car will idle at 1500-1700RPM. However, if i turn my car off and start it again, the car will run perfectly @ 650rpm....

No codes.

Is this a TPS failure or Coolant temperature sensor failure?

kroze

Unfortunately, no I didn't use OEM.
- Autozone for the gaskets and so far so good. Absolutely 0 leaks.
- NGK Platinum plugs
- Coil packs bought on eBay but somehow I got lucky. They're all brand new in the box and the coil packs themselves have Hanshin MCP1500 or something like that on them.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I was going to suggest IACV, but you've already done that. What made you replace the IACV in the 1st place? Same symptoms as you are experiencing now?

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

I would first start with the TPS. Check the FSM if you want to test it

Rods03Max619

iTrader: (5)

Nice list, and any pics of the ride....

kroze

99maxwell

iTrader: (1)

I have the same problem and someone told me my IACV needed to be cleaned. I haven't had the chance to clean it yet though, so i dont know. but if you find out what the cause to this is I'd love to know because it's bugging me aswell..

JAmerican

I bet it's your FIC! Check my signature for High Idle. Check the position of your Fast Idle Cam when your car is warming up per the FSM.

You may need to disable it like I and others have done if your FIC is seizing up. I wasted money on replacing the TPS! Don't do that, at least not yet. Post in the High Idle thread if you need assistance understanding what I posted.

kroze

What caused me to replace the IACV, Spark plugs, and Coil is because symptoms was that the car sputter/or feel like misfiring ONLY at idle (when the car is idling @ around 600rpm), the RPM gauge would fluctuate +/- 50RPM.

However, the problem disappear and a new one arise. My car now doesn't doesn't sputter (probably because it idle @ such a high RPM to sputter/misfire). I'm pretty sure the sputter/misfire is still there if the car ever idle @ 600rpm. But since the car idle @ 1700rpm in park/neutral and 1000rpm while in gear...The sputtering doesn't appear.

kroze

Where is the fast idle cam and how do I test it? Tomorrow I'm planning to:
1. Test the TPS with the multimeter (with the car at normal operating temperature).
2. Unplug the IACV while the car is experiencing 1700rpm idling speed to see if it changes anything (Should the car idle any different if I were to unplug the IACV?)

3. Figure out where the fast idle cam and how to test it . Not even sure if it's the fast idle cam since my car doesn't ALWAYS idle @ 1700rpm in park, 1000rpm in gear. It does it sporadically. One minute the car runs perfect @ 650rpm and the next it idle @ 1000 & 1700rpm. That is...until I turn the car off and turn it right back on again, then the car runs perfect.

JAmerican

This is the FIC (Fast Idle Cam). Check my post out...

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...placement.html



Usually the Plunger that connects to it seizes up and doesn't move the FIC away from warmup mode. This causes a high idle situation because your throttle's position is not set back to 0%. It's like 0.2% or more depending.

AlexxSCM

iTrader: (2)

Daaaaang thats a lot of crap to fix. I have neeeever fixed any of that crap and im at 230,000

kroze

Am I retarded for not knowing what the FIC is without it being circled?

Anyway, if the FIC is bad, wouldn't my car have this problem 100% of the time instead of doing it only once the car warmed up?

JAmerican

The FIC only functions during the warmup stage (if I understand it correctly). The coolant runs through the throttle body. When it warms up, the plunger...



actuates and closes the throttle. If it seizes up and looks like this...



The plunger will stay in the warm up position. I am not sure why shutting the car down and restarting it fixes the issue temporarily TBH. All I know is that disabling this part has solved my issue. Even when I drive my car revving higher than usual or driving up or down hills, I don't get high idle (even though I would before).

Check this as well...



to confirm that your throttle is not resetting to 0%. It should look like this....



JAmerican

kroze

I would like to thank JAmerican. Found out there's a little gap on my throttle body that prevent it from closing completely. Adjusted it and now my car is idling perfectly. No more fast idle

And for future reference, I made a much simpler guide for anyone who have this same problem

Snypa

iTrader: (35)

radiator support coming ur way soon.

kroze

Huh?

OC95Max

Sounds like my laundry list...I just picked my Maxima up a couple months ago, started with a strut, which turned into 4 and new springs, then a valve leak...clutch...rear seal and a lot of other things that I keep saying, "since I'm already doing this, might as well..."

Edit: It has 198K on her.

Here is my progress so far! Hahahaha

JAmerican

How do you know when the strut has gone bad? I've done the push test against the spacing between the trunk and car (rear suspension) and hood and car (front suspension). The car doesn't wobble to steady. It instantly steadies out. The suspension boots are torn on my vehicle and I'm replacing them all. It's been torn for several months though and I haven't had a suspension problems.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

When a strut fails they lock up, so every bump you go over feels like a hard crash, like the suspension isnt doing anything at all. Happened to me with one strut on a previous altima.

Bouncy, floaty movements mean that the strut is worn out; old. It hasn't failed but is no longer performing anywhere near optimally.

gladiator

iTrader: (1)

wow thats awesome info! I'm experiencing a similar problem, will take a look this weekend.

So by closing the gap, it disables the FIC?

97_GXE

Nice...that looks just like my car when I first bought it (in white). Which is why I bought it. Had the original maxima hubcaps also. I had to swap mine for something different because the hubcaps were stripping and pitted.

However, you're probably going to hate me for this, but I don't think new tires should have been on the list just yet. The alloy maxima wheels can be found at numerous salvage yards and even discount tire stores, ebay, craigslist etc. I felt the Maxima was too big of a car to ride on 15" wheels. It looks alot more 'full' with 16"+ wheels even steelies from the 2003+ altima (since maxima no longer carries steelies).

Steel wheels are good for the winter, but this coming summer I'm switching to alloys. Riding thru the mountains, I feel like I'm going to slide off the road with these heavy steelies, not to mention lost fuel economy.

Also...are you replacing these things because they are broken or just preventative maintenance? Although it gives a peace of mind to change these things, I personally would just focus on things that need to be changed. Since I've owned my car at 131,000 miles, the only repairs to the engine were alternator and most recently last week, the radiator developed a crack. Some maintenance included changing thermostat (nothing wrong with it though), fuel filter, struts, fluids. People in my neighborhood always see me working on my car thinking it's something wrong with it. It's really just maintenance stuff I'm doing.

eddie982

iTrader: (10)

Hanshins are OEM, could you post the name of the seller you bought them from?