kroze

The car will sputter (like it's misfiring or something) at random interval when I'm at a stop and the car is in Drive or Reverse, however if I put the car into Park or Neutral, it won't sputter. Other than that, the car drives perfectly fine which mean that the engine and transmission is in perfect shape and it's more of an electrical/sensor problem.

The spark plugs (autolite) were replaced around 9000 miles ago. And I just replaced all of the coil packs (generic brand) because I thought that's what is causing the problem but the problem still exist.

The sputter is random too, some times it will sputter a lot and other time it's very little. It seems like once the car has warmed up, it sputter less...

Any idea what's going on?

Background info:
Bought the car @ 117k miles and replaced all of the stuff listed below. It now have 126k and runs beautifully other than the sputtering that just started not too long ago.
- Struts
- radiator
- spark plugs
- brake pads/rotors
- air & fuel filter
- pcv valve
- oil & transmission fluid changed
––––––––––––––––––––––––––

UPDATE:
- Coil packs were bad
- Replaced coil packs with ones bought from Amazon, which is also bad.
- Bought new coil packs from a seller on eBay and returned the coils bought from amazon.
- Car ran beautifully with new coil packs. Replacing the IACV & spark plugs wasn't necessary but it couldn't hurt.

cashoit

vaccuum leak or IACV.

OH! you a 99, def check coils as those are KNOWN to fail on 99s.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

go back to OEM coils. NOW.

Then clean your IACV and TB out


Do you have a check engine light? Have you scanned for codes regardless?

kroze

I am in the process of putting my old coil packs back into the car. One by one. As in I take one coil pack out, remove and inspect spark plug, and then install the old genuine Nissan coil pack. Start the car and see if it still sputter. I'm doing it to all 6 coil packs. So in the end, my car will have 6 original oem coil packs installed and every single one is tested.

Will keep you guys updated.

kroze

Okay I just put all the oem coil packs back into the car and tested each of them and they all works perfectly. My method is with the engine running, unplug a coil pack and look for changes in engine rpm and they all works. Each plug I pulled the engine lower its rpm and stutter until I plug it back in. So I know this isn't a coil pack/spark plug issue.

However I just discover something new. The engine continued to sputter in drive/reverse gear like before but I notice that if I turn the steering wheel left and right the engine go crazy with its rpm. The rpm fluctuate tremendously if I steer left and right.

maxfever1987

iTrader: (93)

you might have a bad upper intake manifold gasket, wat you do to test is spray air intake cleaner onto the the gasket area and if you notice a diff. in the way the car reacts to the spray than you have a leaky uim gasket, just had a customers car and this is wat the sputtering in his car was related to

kroze

Nope. I figured it out!!! It's much simpler and easier than what you suggested.

I unplugged the IACV and the car runs like a dream! Idle perfectly at ~750rpm without any fluctuation whether it go from park to drive, or when i steer the steering wheel left and right.

So I guess I need to clean the IACV eh? gotta go order the tb gasket and iacv gasket at nissan. be back later!!

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

...

kroze

God damn it. After driving it for a while, the problems came back and it's worse than before.

Code p1320 - ignition signal primary
Code p0300 - random misfire
Code p0505 - iacv system

kroze

Damn it got worse

arrazola_a

I am having the same exact problem on my 96. This happened after i changed my spark plugs to autolite double platinum. Could be the plugs? I havent had time to change them. Let me know if you figure it out i am interested

cashoit

Yes its the plugs.

Dont cheap out get the NGK platinums

Its well documented that the 4th gen dont like bosch plugs

Sportrunner

iTrader: (1)

I had what sounds like the same problem just a little worse.

I removed my intake to find that the egr valve port was 100% clogged. Cleaned that and half *** cleaned the guide tube. Btw that didn't clear my egr code. Back to work. while I had everything off cleaned the iacv and I went ahead and soaked the intake manifold in gas to break up any unseen carbon. I then sprayed Carb cleaner through it to remove all the loose crap.

Next I cleaned the iacv with card cleaner. Not OK to saok electrical parts. This was pretty bad also. Cleaned the TB.

I also tried replacing the TPS 2 junk yard and one brand new from advanced.

None of these things "fixed" my problem. Did however make it less often.

Here's my fix. After all the frustration, time, and money. Dirty MAF. Was happy this fixed my problem but annoyed that it took that long to figure it out. I checked my air filter and that was pretty bad so I went ahead and got a spectra filter. Had to make some minor adjustments (with a grinder) but now I'm satisfied. Filter whistles on normal take off and literally growls at 3500+ rpm. Loving this cheap mod.

Hope this helps

kroze

How does a dirty MAF throw these codes? P1320, P0300, P0505? Do you have these codes when your car have the problem?

RushNatU

I just fixed this exact same problem. Codes 1320 and 0300. I cleaned the IACV and even replaced with another working unit. No change. I replaced the spark plugs with NGK g power and got a little improvement in throttle response across the entire band but still misfired. Replaced all coils with working units. Still misfired ugh. Then I replaced the front three fuel injectors and blam! she runs like brand new. I was lucky that it was one of the front ones because I would have to take off the UIM for the back three. I should have changed those when I did the valve covers....darn. But it did fix the problem and I noticed an improvement in mpg as well. 225k I guess it was time lol.

kroze

I really hate going on a witch hunt and replacing everything and ending up paying hundreds if not thousands replacing parts.

RushNatU

Sounds expensive doesn't it. However, I sourced all the parts from a local salvage yard for like $20 plus a little carb cleaner from Walmart.

arrazola_a

I changed my spark plugs back to ngk copper. I originally replaced them with autolite and that changed my way car ran alot. It would misire crazy at stop lights. I was getting ready to buy new insectors and coils. Go back to ngk hopefully it fixes your problem trust me i know how irritating it was for me

kroze

I sent the "new" coil packs back and asking for a refund from Amazon. I then ordered from a different dealer (generic again) However, this guy sold 64 of these coil packs and all got great reviews so that's good and comforting news.

The coils will be here thursday, i'll give you guys an update once installed.

P.S. I also replaced all of the spark plugs with NGK platinum tipped and replaced the IACV.

So far:
NGK plugs - $22
Used IACV - $72
Generic Coil Packs - $107
------------------------
Hopefully it works because I'm not looking to spend $550+ for OEM coils & $400+ for OEM IACV

kroze

Good news everyone. The new coil packs arrived in the mail today and I went ahead and installed it.

The car runs beautifully, not a single problem and idles like a brand new car. I couldn't even tell if the engine is running or not. That's how smooth it is.

Before I installed the coils pack, I tested all of them and they're all 1.5-1.6 OHMS, just in case you're curious.

ZARCO93

I have the same problem... where do you suggest I start?

kroze

I suggest you read the entire thread

72240z

Thanks for all the follow-up !


My 1995 w/ 165k miles started w/ a misfire at idle.
I ran a can of BG44K, which has worked mirracles on my Porsches and BMWs and things improved for a few days.
Then misfire got worse.
I replaced my existing NGK BKR5EGP plugs w/ new NGK PFR5G-11 ($10 each !) While in there, I noticed a broken coil and two coils were not secured tightly.
Replaced 1 broken coil, w/ NAPA IC212 coil ( $100 ugh), snugged all coils.
no change.
Check Engine light came on... P1320 ignition signal primary

Will revisit this week.

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

BG makes some nice stuff....

1320 is a coil issue or a harness issue. You spent $100 on Napa coils? For a few more you could have had Nissan.....it could be those new coils causing the code. Only coils that are guaranteed to work and last are OEM

72240z

Great point on OEM coils... I only installed one NAPA coil so I will look at a new set, either Nissan or maybe ?

Amazon.com search `#IC47 95-99 NISSAN IGNITION COIL 2244831U01 2244831U06 MAXIMA INFINITI I30 6PCS 1995 1995 1997 1998 1999 ` or try this link:


or
Genuine Nissan:
http://parts.nissanusa.com/nissanparts/

boyomarga

Then clean your IACV and TB out

72240z

ok, all new Nissan coils, she runs much better.