geofferito

I did not know the history of when my plugs were changed. Today, I set out to install a set of IFR5E11 plugs to replace the existing BKR5EGP plugs (didn't know that until I pulled the first one).

As expected, the front three plugs were easy; the back plugs were harder. The back ones did have some oil on them.

The middle back plug was impossible as the rubber end that covers the plug itself did not come out with the coil pack. I tried a number of things that did not work to pull it out.

I did one trip around the block and it's running rough:

Here are my two questions:

1) is there a trick to get the rubber cover out of the whole?

2) did a get a the right set of plugs IFR5-E11 ?

Thanks,
-Geoff

Reallyslowrio

I used a bent up coat hanger to get the boot remains out of the spark plug hole. I don't exactly have a nice set of tools.

Not sure about the spark plug p/n, but go back and make sure you have all of the coils plugged in properly. Simply changing plugs should not make the car run rough...

**edit**
From the NGK website:
Also should note that the website says that the "laser platinum" is OEM

Standard BKR5ES-11
V-Power BKR5E-11
G-Power BKR5EGP
Laser Platinum PFR5G-11
OE Laser Iridium IFR5E11
Iridium IX BKR5EIX-11

memphisballer

iTrader: (7)

You're gonna need to repair your vehicle the right way if you want it to run correctly.You're gonna need to replace that coil,spark plug tube seals and valve cover gasket since you said oil was on the plugs.

geofferito

Thanks for the advice. I will try the coat hanger to try to get it out.

Aside, had to laugh, the paid ad was from Amazon where I bought the exact plugs.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

On the money here. Except for the coil. You need a new boot because the one in the rear middle has come apart and is leaking spark. The oil leaking into the tubes has degrade the rubber, and you really should replace every one that was wet with oil.

2brosgixxer

+1 this is exactly correct. When mine wouldn't come out, I just put some electrical tape on the remaining end of the coil to fatten it up, then stuck it down in the hole and into the stuck boot then pulled it out. You don't need a new coil, just get a new boot and see if that solves the problem. I personally did not change either...I just stuck my boot back on and went on my way. 8 month's later and still no problems, but you have oil eating at it, so change it.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Put a few drops of crazy glue on the stalk end, then put it back on the boot.
Wait 5 minutes...
Pull the coil off with the boot now attached.

19GLE97

thats exactly what i did!

jholley

iTrader: (13)

I got that rubber boot tip off spark plug 5 using my extended needle nose pliers. As stated since the oil caused this problem you'll have to replace the boots on that coil.

If you don't want this problem to continue then replace those spark plug tube seals. This recently posted thread contains all the info you'll need.

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...cylinders.html

geofferito

I did notice some of the coils had different boots.

Are the back coils different from the front ones?

Can I get just a set of boots? Or should I replace the middle back coil and boot?

DennisMik

iTrader: (2)

The front coils and rear coils are made a little different because of the length needed to reach the spark plug. Other than length, the boots would look the same if all six were originals.

You can get replacements. The stores may not stock them and would need to order them for you, preferring to sell you the entire coil.

But here is a link to a set made by Belkin, sold by Napa Auto Parts who also had other brands. Other stores probably sell these as well.

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Ca...39K_0366482503

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Yes, the rears are longer.

You can get boots minus the coils, individually and probably in pairs. I'm a firm believer in "if it aint broke, don't fix it". Just replace the ones that are wet with oil, AFTER replacing the tube seals.

DO NOT replace the coil, just the boot(s).

geofferito

I ordered a new gasket set as recommended.

I will try to find a boot(s) or a used coil from craigslist with a boot attached.

maxinout93

I didn't think the coil would work right without the boot??? Didn't kno they could b seperated

geofferito

Sorry for the confusion. I just meant that it might be easier to find a complete used coil w/ boot instead of finding a set of boots to fix my coil w/o boot.

asand1

iTrader: (1)

They dont, thats why its running worse than before the new mplugs.


yup.

My guess is that the stalk is still attached to the coil, with the bottom most rubber portion detached

asand1

iTrader: (1)

Not hard at all. Just google to find the part number for multible brands, and then order from your local parts store. Or just go to rockauto.com

Fel-pro has a kit with gaskets, tube seals, and valve cover bolt grommets.
Fel-pro Part # VS50494R



and #MS91253



and http://napaautoparts.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BEL702439_0259735654

NAPA# BEL 702439


When I did mine, I bought from NAPA, because after shipping, you wont save much and NAPA is next day delivery.

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

You dont need spark plugs lol

J_MAxxX

oh god, reading this reminds me that i have a coil boot stuck to a spark plug, got to get on this soon.

Fatboy98maxima

nice tread guy s

geofferito

I found some used coils locally for $10 each. I think I will try that 1st

Ordered from Amazon.com

What is this one for?

If the cheap coil does not fix my one bad one, I will order the kit.

jholley

iTrader: (13)

That's the gasket for the UIM that you'll be removing to get to the rear valve cover.

Here's a write up on replacing all those gaskets you purchased

Valve Cover Gasket Replacement

geofferito

So, that boot stuck was a real pain to get out. Basically, I dig it out with a coat hanger for about an hour, I vacuumed out the rubber bits as they broke off. Finally,