styliztik

so a while back I replaced my factory non bose speakers cuz they were blown. I replaced them with some cheap *** walmart pioneer 6.5"s all the way around. the front sound alright for $40 speakers. and theres only 2 out of 4 screws holding them in cuz they're a little larger than the box thingy they mount on. and now the back, sound like ****. NO BASS at all. and I believe I have 3 screws holding those in. why don't the rear ones have bass? is it cuz they are $40 speakers? lol or did I do something wrong? please explain this to me. I know nothing about car speakers and I searched and came up with nothing about this.

infinimax96

You get what you pay for. Also I'd recommend getting speakers that fit properly.

SNIFFERPIVOTS

1998 Nissan Maxima Car Stereo Radio Wiring Diagram
Radio Constant 12V+ Wire: Pink/Blue
Radio Ignition Switched 12V+ Wire: Blue/Black
Radio Ground Wire: Vehicle Chassis
Radio Illumination Wire: Red/Blue
Radio Dimmer Wire: Red/Orange
Radio Antenna Trigger Wire: Black/Red
Radio Amplifier Trigger Wire: N/A
Front Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Front Speakers Location: Doors
Left Front Speaker Wire (+): Blue/White
Left Front Speaker Wire (-): Blue/Yellow
Right Front Speaker Wire (+): Brown
Right Front Speaker Wire (-): Brown/White
Rear Speakers Size: 6 1/2″ Speakers
Rear Speakers Location: Rear Deck
Left Rear Speaker Wire (+): Red
Left Rear Speaker Wire (-): Green
Right Rear Speaker Wire (+): Blue
Right Rear Speaker Wire (-): Pink

switch your + and -. if still no bass. spend more $ on the right size speaker so you can mount them up correctly.

bksmax11203

iTrader: (1)

I've done plenty of systems, and the speakers not sitting completely flush with the car has nothing to do with the fact he has no bass. More than likely your speaker wires at the speakers are switched around.what head unit are you using?

infinimax96

Actually speakers not sitting flush and sealed properly make a huge difference difference in sound. The rear speakers use the trunk as an acoustic box. If they are not seated properly the sound, especially bass can be greatly effected. A properly sized, seated and acoustically sealed high quality speaker will always sound better than a make shift installed 6x9. Just my 2 cents though. If you are looking for a cheap sound upgrade goto the junkyard and find a Max with a Bose system. Rip out the speakers and preamp and replace with your current set up.

bksmax11203

iTrader: (1)

Well yea of course it will. What I was stating was that even it the speakers are say out in the open unmounted, you should still here some type of bass coming from the speakers.

infinimax96

It would be little to zero if they weren't enclosed. Unless they were 8inch heavy hitters equalized to nothing but 120hz and below. Even then, it would be little.

styliztik

okay. why are you guys telling me to get the correct size speakers when they're the same size as oe?

they have bass from them, the cone moves and vibrates like normal, I just don't hear/feel it.

infinimax96

You mentioned that they were slightly bigger than OEM and didn't fit all the way in the speaker housing. If the speaker is not seated flush or sealed it will not sound as it should.

Did you try reversing the +/- speaker terminals? How about the equalizer on the head unit, is it adjusted for bass? If you've checked these things already and you are still getting the same sound quality then the only way to resolve your problem is a better speaker.

styliztik

that's the mounting bracket. and why would I reverse them? + is hooked up to + and - is hooked up to -. I can identify polarity. my eq is set up for +4 bass, +2 treble. out of 6.

I guess I just need a better speaker.

cDgRazoray

iTrader: (-1)

You shouldn't really be looking for bass out of your door speakers. I mean maybe some "kick" but not thump, low bass or quake. Iinstalled my Kicker DS65's correctly and they have awesome mid and high notes but not really lows. They really show off with rock music or anything with solid and fast kick notes, but not lows. Lower frequencies should be left for subwoofers. Keep in mind that aftermarket speakers require much more power to sound good.

infinimax96

Bose factory speakers supply good low. That's why I suggested going to your local junkyard and using that. You can probably get the full setup for less than $40

SNIFFERPIVOTS

I replaced all speakers with MB Quart formula 6.5 componant system and just off of deck power, JVC KW-R500, bass hits low highs hit high, with the pro-q setup these door and rear deck speaker make my mirrors move. that being said. maybe you need to invest a little more money to get the sound youre looking for. i'm sorry but you arent going to be able to feel $40 in door speakers that dont fit.

SNIFFERPIVOTS

my 6.5 were a direct fit in all stock holes. from your explanation of your EQ setup youre not running a very good deck, is it stock? if so. thats part of your problem.

IDvsEGO

Not a fan. Better than average stock but they implement well with smart (for them) freq roll off. Run them through the paces with music that you know well and you will see that Bose just drops off the frequencies it can't handle well. That's fine for most people. Infuriating for some when they know a bass line is in a song and it doesnt exist in the Bose representation. There is an old saying, no highs, no lows, must be Bose. That is a bit of a hyperbole but they stay in their comfort zone and don't bother with anything that really makes your system sparkle of shine. better than what OP is describing though.

If you are sure they are wired correctly and you are sure they are the right size then you have answered your own question. I have never been happy with bass from door/kickpanel speakers until I amped a set of MB Quart Q series and those cost a little more than what you have. Its a pretty simple formula with about a billion results. Check the source (head unit/amps), install, and output (speakers).

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Did you replace the speakers and the amps, or just the speakers? From the lack of bass I would guess that you have aftermarket speakers running thru the original bose amps. That wont work well because the Bose amps are expecting a 1 ohm speaker and standard aftermarket ohmage is 6 to 8 ohms. So the aftermarket speaker is "choking" the amp. The amp just cant drive them.

If you go aftermarket you need to go all aftermarket. Amps and all.


The Bose system in the 4th gen and 3rd gen maximas are really good. With the 5th gen and later Bose went to single sub-woofer, and I believe that you need at least 2 woofers for bass, always.

There's alot of stuff going on in a Bose system that people don't appreciate. For example;

1. The Bose HU has automatic loudness thats always on.
2. Even though the Bose front and rear speakers are the same size, they are actually different speakers. The fronts and rears have different voicecoils, the rears having voicecoil that produces better lows.

DW

IDvsEGO

he said non bose. most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohms in the automotive industry. 6-8 is common in home applications. If you mean that any Bose system needs two woofers for decent bass, I won't disagree since I have never heard a single woofer setup. For aftermarket a single sub can be more than enough.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Yes, and I asked if he replaced the speakers only, or speakers and amp.

OK 4 ohms. Still. the Bose amps are struggling to drive the 4 ohm speakers when they are expecting 1 ohm.

This should also apply in the home as well unless your sub produces real lows only, like 25 Hz and below. Most subs go higher, in which case 2 would be better.


DW

IDvsEGO

thus my reply that he said he had a non Bose. so his speakers should be 4 ohm unless I am mistaken.

your statement says decent bass, not sensational bass. The majority of home setups are single sub setups and most people are happy with it. Sounds decent to me. Go buy a velodyne, Hsu research or sunfire single subwoofer and let me know if those are "decent" bass makers or not. Typical range of human hearing is only down to about 20hz. Anything beyond that is a physical sensation for a lot of people.

But I don't want to deviate too far so I digress, that's why I edited most of my previous post. We obviously have some different thoughts on things that don't effect this topic at all. I just didn't want OP or anyone else out there thinking they have to get two subs in their car when there have been SQ placers in IASCA events with single subwoofer setups. I also didn't want anyone out there scratching their head and looking for 6-8 ohm speakers for their car and wondering why all car amps are rated at 4 and 2 ohms.

wirelessdude04

iTrader: (24)

Boom boom bass in ya face

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

I'm not going to waste any more time arguing. Your viewpoint is popular, and is bound to get the most support. Britney Spears is a very popular singer, but I dont think her popularity makes her the best singer

DW

styliztik

non bose didn't come with amps.. lol

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Apparently the reason you wound up in this predicament is due to a limited understanding of the original setup.

The bose system in the 4th gen maxima has an amplifier attached to each speaker. The black plastic box attached to the speaker is the amplifier.

DW

IDvsEGO

thats the great thing about audio and the terrible thing about audio...its subjective. I was just trying to present a different subjective opinion so the readers would know there are many may ways to get a sound that is desirable, depending on your personal preferences. they were some factual issues to straighten out though. Like ...

but if he doesn't have the bose system he doesn't have amps right? and his factory speakers are the traditional 4 ohms?

I have to say I am confused about this conversation too. DW, you keep talking about bose systems and the OP has the standard, non bose system. are there shared components I am unaware of that make the bose information relevant to his issue? I was under the understanding that the non-bose systems ran off the standard head unit at 4 ohms. I know this is the case with the 6th gen because I have seen the factory Non-bose speakers and they clearly have 4 ohm stamped on the magnet. As I see it he did correctly in buying 4 ohm speakers he just went for bottom of the barrel so the sound quality isnt what he was expecting.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

You're right. Calling his system factory non bose threw me

My apologies for the confusion.

DW

IDvsEGO

no worries, been there.

so OP, just get some better speakers or a better head unit if you want more bass.

cashoit

Component speakers will NOT bump hard enough to really FEEL no matter how loud u turn up the volume.

If u want to FEEL your bass, then get a subwoofer/amp setup. Trust me man, u dont have bass until u got a subwoofer.

200 watt rms or 600 peak amp will do u right .

i got sony 1200 watt peak (300 rms) sub and 150 watt rms( 600 watts peak) kenwood amp and its good.

cashoit

My boy changed his HU and it helped improve his bass. But he still ended up buying a sub/amp for his bumping needs

IDvsEGO

true
please never judge an amp by its peak. there are no standards to measuring peak. Companies have regulations regarding RMS measurements so that everybody is playing with the same rules. Peak numbers can be in bursts using input voltages that are not achievable in the automotive environment. It means next to nothing for many amps.

SNIFFERPIVOTS

[QUOTE=cashoit;8466915]Component speakers will NOT bump hard enough to really FEEL no matter how loud u turn up the volume.

thats not true buddy. my component speakers hit pretty hard for just 6.5 doors rear deck and tweets. i feel it. it rattles my mirrors. just off of my aftermarket JVC H/U

SNIFFERPIVOTS

if you can't feel it, you're not doing it right.

styliztik

I would love to get a system. but I'm pretty sure that's not a good idea seeing as how my car keeps eating alternators anyways. I just wanted something that would sound the same as the factory ones did.

cashoit

Agreed. Peak power is a company marketing ploy for noobs. Thats why i listed RMS wattage, thats the only real way to tell how loud the system is.


[quote=SNIFFERPIVOTS;8467030]Good 6.5 speaker should hit decent. BUT if u want BASS (im talkin that rattle your girl's panties off bass) then u need more powah!!!!!

this is so true man.

Damn bro thats another issue within itself. U may have a parasitic draihn from the power antenna (if u have one). You can also try to disconnect factory alarm or heated seats (if u have them). Unless u gettin used Alts or a crappy bunch from the parts store, u should NOT have to keep replacing them.

SNIFFERPIVOTS

check your relays. i had the same problem on my 88. then i replaced the relay and poof like magic. good choice not putting in a system yet tho. could be bad ground too tho. clean your grounds.

styliztik

interesting you should say that. cuz I did unplug my power antenna cuz I need a new mast. I unplugged it cuz everytime I turn the car on or off I can hear the motor back there and it just keeps going and going and won't stop. but I don't think that would cause a drain?

the first few alts I got were from autozone. I made them test them all before I left and they all passed. but they lasted 2 weeks exactly. all of them. strange. then I got pissed and said f this and returned it. (they refused to refund me a core charge, which I recently found out they have to by law, I should have sued and bought a new maxi lol) I've been using napa alternators lately and they last the longest. so far... *knock on wood*

ShocknAwe

iTrader: (3)

This thread has way to much misinformation to even start to address. Why wouldn't component speakers hit hard when they have a separate mid-bass in which to reproduce lows?

The only thing that needs to be said is if you want cheap good speakers get some decent coaxial speakers(tweeter mounted on top of mid-bass) but if you want a more refined sound then get a good set of component speakers(seperate tweeter assembly).

Subs are used to reproduce the lowest freq's. However, most people just want some bump and dont know how to properly introduce a sub into a 4 door sedan such as ours and they throw whatever they want into the trunk. THis results in the listener only hearing the bass because of course they turn it all the way up and you cant even hear the mids and highs. My set-up is for quality over simply loud

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Boothers96

iTrader: (11)

Exactly....what sounds good to some people sounds horrible to others.....ive never understood why some people turn the bass up all the way and then crank it up distorting the music horribly. But if they love it then whatever.....

Personally i love the bose oem speakers....not because they bump hard though (cuz they dont) but because they have good mids, ok highs, and are rock solid reliable, esp in 4th gens.....I have mine running on a pioneer avic x930bt and it has plenty of eq/low pass filter configs to make it sound great. In the trunk i have 2 10" L7s on an explode 1000w amp....plenty of bumpage, mids and highs....imo a great combo. Bottom line....if it sounds good to you go with it, you just have to find what does.

styliztik

never thought about the relays.. I bought an oe replacement fog relay from autozone when I installed the factory foglights.. I wonder if that's the cause. I drive with my fogs on whenever I'm driving.

cashoit

I guess its just a matter of your definition of "hit hard" and personal preference

My HU has a filter that allows me to play the highs and mids through the components. I use the sub for all my lows.

But my sub still hits harder than my components when i turn off the filter.

High quality sound with no distortion SHOULD be the goal. IMO