Zach-R

iTrader: (3)

That's what I'm thinking about doing. I know the 4th gen strut bar won't fit. Supposedly the 5thgen will though but I don't know if it will with the evap mounted on top. Also thought about mounting to firewall but I might have to do away wth cruise to make it work. Do I need that extra canaster that has a vacuum nipple on it? That would help out a lot if I could do away with it and not throw a code.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

Zach-R

iTrader: (3)

I was worried about this. It appears you have the 99 evap system. I have the older version that is much larger and has an additional canister. I have the 5th gen evap also but the plugs are different.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

What?! No compliments on my clean install? jk It's not even clean really..
Man that sucks about your larger evap with additional canister, suppose you could fabricate a bracket and tuck it under something but I dont know what youre dealing with and I googled the 1997 evap and only found a beige colored solenoid with two nipples.

Phromethius

Holy crap! You have the Otto Racing FSB. lol I thought I was the only one on here without the Stillen or homemade fabricated one. I liked the Otto look. I still rock it. It did burn through my EVAP canister tubing that bolts on to the TB though. That sucker gets HOT here in Texas.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

It is a Stillen... jk yea I had this for a while now! You burned through your evap hoses damn! That's HOT.
Back on topic though, I think I maybe got scammed on a emu, was going to tune it. It runs like 14.7 afr on idle and when I step on it it richens up like 12:1 or so...I also have the cold start issue where I need to hold rpm for about 5 seconds or so to keep it idling on its own. during this process it actually idels lean about 16 or so but after about 1 min it starts getting to 14.7 so Im happy so far just need to tune. and like I said, I think i got skizammed. well at least ebay offers protection.

Zach-R

iTrader: (3)

Me and a buddies street tuned my car last night and WOO! This thing runs now. Afr is very solid throughout rpm range stays in the high 12s and cruising is between 14.7-15.3. Tuned with a good ole basic vafc and aem uego wideband.

I am VERY happy with the 00vi swap Its not even hard to do. I went full 5th gen minus rear valve cover with egr deleted. Idle is weird when I adjust it its either 600 or 1200. Which is really confusing but I need to check the tps. Also with the evap system I just removed the evap canaster thats in between the solonoid and manifold completely and have not gotten any codes yet. Drove for 2 hrs last night that way while tuning.

Had to grind off the coil pack bosses which I ended up taking them down too far and had a local shop weld the holes up. I also used a 90' fitting to run the pcv valve out the side. Not the best setup but it works. Hardest parts were the wiring such as vafc and getting the vias to actuate. I had the vias hooked up to the vtec input and output wires (Purple and pink). Wouldn't work at all so I disconnected the vtec output wire and ran the negative straight to the timing cover to ground it out. Works like a charm now. I will post pics of my setup once I get my intake piping figured out. As of now its Tb-maf-filter. I can't find a cap to block off the 3/4 nipple on the midpipe. It used to go to the 4th gen iacv. Plan on having a shop weld it shut.

I highly recommend doing this if you don't want to 3.5 swap. It's not hard just time consuming. Having friends around to help and a spare car for multiple trips to the parts store is a must. Good luck and I'm here to help future swappers in anyway I can.

Zach-R

iTrader: (3)

Oh and clean install maximeltman! Looks good and I'm jealous of your strut bar! I'm going to see how a 5th gen bar fits because this sucks not having one.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

00vi noob here with a few questions, ive searched high and low for hours and havnt found anything specific enough to give me the confidence to take on this mod, so please dont slay me!

I have a 99' cali specc GXE, how different would this install be for me? From what i could gather the 99' cali differs from all the other years of 4gen, the engine has swirl valves that are not present in the other years iirc. Im looking to swapping in all dek parts (uim/lim, injectors, rear coils, etc), would this setup be ideal for my 99 cali spec?

Also, ive read that by using 5th gen injectors my car will need a tune. Ive also read you can get by without one with reasonable results. I know *nothing* about tuning and i do not have any equipment. Could one go to a dyno shop or something like that to have them tune the car for you, or is it really a diy thing? If a shop can do it, what would be an appropiate price?

Im really looking to do this mod, however im on the side of caution as i know my car is more or less the black sheep of 4th gens. Any input would be fantastically appreciated (and if my questions are answered, could you be so kind to link the threads; i cant fins anything on the 99 cali max).

Thanks a ton guys, those 00vis look baaaad and the power sounds even more bad. Really looking forward to being able to tackle this.

-slam

Zach-R

iTrader: (3)

I can't see there being any Cali spec specific issues but I don't know, mines a 98 fed spec.

As far as doing a full 00vi swap I recommend using everything even the iacv. My car idles fine and looks much cleaner than 4th gen Iacv. If you use the 5th gen injectors you will need a tune. Sure the car will run but it will be so rich you won't see any real gains without a tune. Plus your gas mileage will suck. I've tuned mine myself using a apexi vafc. The difference is substantial. Youll need a vafc or emanage etc to tune. Tuning is best done on a dyno by a professional however I'm happy with the results of my own tune.

Ill try to answer any additional questions you have. Good luck!

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

The intake manifold (IM) consists of 2 parts, the upper IM and the lower IM. The 00VI mod is a mod which, for the most part, replaces your 4th gen upper IM with a 5th gen upper IM. The swirls valves on the 99 4th gen are integrated into the lower IM, so the 00VI mod doesn't affect them.

If you go with 5th gen injectors and want to go to a dyno shop, you still have to come prepared with a "piggyback" computer already installed on your car that will be "tunable" like the apex vafc or emanage ultimate. The dyno shop will be tuning those piggy back computers.

In the end, the install of an 00VI to a 99 cali wont be that different from a 98 Fed etc. The differences tend to be small, like ecu pinouts etc. The major stuff is the same.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Thanks a ton! I figured it wouldnt be all that different but since i couldnt find anythinf specific on my car i figured id be safe. When i finally tackle this i think ill take pics and do a little writeup incase anyone winds up in thr same boat that i was in.

One more question; i know my car has the pesky immobilizer that makes it unfeasible to upgrade the ECU with something like the JWT, to anyones knowledge i should have no problem with using a VAFCII or similar software, correct?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

For some clarity:

Because they are piggyback, the VAFC and emanage works along with your OEM ECU.

JWT is a complete ECU replacement. People tend to go with JWT when they want to go "hard-core," with a 7000 RPM redline and have those JWT cams installed. The JWT would benefit an 00VI install also because the 00VI keeps making power up top, so when you push the redline up another 500 rpm, more power. It is not essential, though.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Ahh i see. Essentially the JWT would be considered hardware as opposed to software such as emanage, etc.

Welp, as not to be flamed ill be doing some homework on what software would be ideal for me and how to get it going. Once again thanks.

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

I despise cookie cutter tunes like JWT.

My vote goes for the emanage ultimate. It can do everything the JWT can and then some.

Slamrod

iTrader: (11)

Ive read this is the ideal software, however i dont have the cash to spend more on that than what the 00vi costs itself. I found a VAFC2 for 150 shipped, should be suitable for my needs.

Zach-R

iTrader: (3)

Yea I would at least get a vafc 2. I have just a vafc and there just isn't enough tuning points. I'm hoping to upgrade to emanage one day.

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

Its a good start.

maxed_out_99

i havent posted in a while but im hoping you guys can help me out here i just installed my VAFC2 on sunday.
mods: complete 00VI, wideband, apexi VAFC2, shorty headers, y-pipe, cold air intake and a bunch of other ****.
first off during cruise and idle im super lean 16.8 - 17.6 sometimes 18.0
cruise is 14.9-15.6
now; with my VAFC the throttle percent doesnt change until im about 25% into the pedal. is this normal?
according to my scantool im showing readings as son as the pedal moves.
could being lean at idle be caused by a bad maf?
i appreciate all your help you guys are awesome. thanks in advance

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

No vacuum leaks right? O2 sensors good? And no exhaust leak? Maybe clean maf and iacv..are fuel injectors clean?
I'm running untuned because I'm making a harness, my 99 ecu ignition somehow got fried, now I'm running a 95 ecu...runs a lot better!
Good luck with your tune! I hope you get that lean idle figured out!
I wonder how much better mine will run once I tune it...it feels pretty snappy as it is untuned! When at wot it's like 12.9 so I guess that's rich, and at idle its around 14.3-15.5

Snowbiker

a few questions for you guys? 1 what order do i need to wire my injector plugs? 2 i have the apexi safc2 fuel controller do i need a wideband?

carsnwomen91

My jwt came with a few 00vi parts n I only have it for the 7200rpm redline and the slight timing advance cause I don't know how to install or use emanage. It won't be enough of a tune if you have the 5g injectors so you need to get a piggy back. I'll do emanage whenever I decide to do 3.5 swap

maxed_out_99

I'm going to clean the maf tonight. The iacv was clean last time I checked (about a month ago) Injectors should be clean. No vacuum leaks. Possible exhaust leak I'll check that tomorrow

1992maximase30

so I did the swap on my 99 I30. Now I'm having idle problems. I'm running a 5th gen iacv. I've tried searching amd no solution has come up. There are days where the car will act like the one in the video and there are times where you'll start the car and it'll rev to 1600 rpms then gradually go down to its normal idle then after a minute or two it'll stsrt to go back up to 1600rpms. I tried spraying throttle body cleaner around the motor but no change in idle.Please help

hfsdude007

I have a question for anyone who found their own Pathfinder throttle body. I just went to pick up an 01 PFTB from a vq35 only to find it was ran by wire instead of by cable. Do i need to look for an older pathfinder or an i looking into the wrong engine?

I know the pathfinder/qx4 also had a 3.3 engine. Can someone please give me specifics on what year/engine i need to be looking for for the throttle body for my 4th gen 00vi swap?
Thanks
Thomas

hfsdude007

He said it was an 01, and it was definitely the wrong TB. I would upload the picture but i can't. So i need to be looking for a vg33 throttle body? This is the one that is 70mm?

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

I'm just posting my opinions here: I'll try to answer any questions?


I've owned two DE-K setups, each as unimpressive as a doo-doo flavored lolly... And I'm going for a third soon -___-;;

White Nightmare DEK Ver.1


-Full DE-K Motor
-4th Gen Lower Manifold
-4th gen injectors
-Power Rod Deleted
-IACV Deleted, throttle body propped open for idle.
-Stock 4th gen throttle body used
-No tuning device
Best Results: 14.78 @ 92mph - 24mpg city / 28 highway

-------------------------------------------------------




White Nightmare DEK Ver.2
Got lazy and just dropped the whole motor in. Shot flames, ran like *** while cold, only owned it for 3 days since I sold the car....
-Deleted the DE-K IACV, pegged the idle at 900rpm
-Deleted the power rod again
-No tuning whatsoever, this is not a good idea on a DE-K drop in

Results: In general, still unimpressed, but the car somehow found a few extra ponies and managed to beat a car that the previous setup could not beat.

Overall opinion: 3.5 swap it I'm not a fan of dumping a bunch of money and time to find 20whp where just dropping in another motor will achieve the same thing with a lot more tq.

Yet I say that but....

DE-K #3 coming soon....

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

So a 3.5 swap only gives 20 extra hp with only exception of more tq?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

There's a lot more to it than peak hp. Area under the curve, the vq35 motor actually weighs about 100 pounds less than a Vq30. So the combination of a lighter more powerfull motor mated to a very light chassis (4th gen body weighs less than even the 3rd gen body), this makes for quite a deadly combination.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

Maximametalman:
Your everyday VQ35 3.0 timing swaps dyno in around 220whp w/ the same amount of TQ, with out tuning, just putting it in the car with you every day maxima.org mods.

You will spend countless hours of tuning, and playing with little details (EG. intake sizing, piping length, flatting the EU dip, or an expensive JWT ecu) trying to net +230whp w/ a DE-K/00VI while mustering barely over 200 ft/lbs and a tiny powerband that the 5MT (Lets be honest, most people actually still think the 5MT is a good transmission for something other than going to the grocery store and back) will not make much use of (think we have good powerbands? Look at Chevy's LS motor dynos, two fat scoops of ice cream).

If you study what I've done with my Maximas in detail, you see I take a minimalist approach (and every single one has been 6mt swapped). Why? You guessed it, I own Maximas, I have been fortunate in life, but not to the point of where I can justify buying all of the crap needed to get every whp possible out of any of my cars, because the hp/$ figure gets very, very, very small after a certain point and with DE-K's it comes very very quickly, but to even make the swap worthwhile number/speed gained wise you have to cross into that lower threshold.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Actually what I was saying is that a 4th gen, entire vehicle, weighs less than a 3rd gen, entire vehicle, by about 100 pounds. Nissan was keen on showing off that statistic when the 4th gen came out.

As for the vq35 and vq30 weights, I may be off somewhat, but there was something about the vq35 that made it lighter than vq30. Don't know what it was. This guy's VQ35 weighs 25 lbs less than the VQ30;

https://maxima.org/forums/all-motor/...ml#post3665473


Perhaps a one off? Anyway, I will defer to your greater experience on the subject.

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

You negate the tiny power band of the VQ, yet what do you do? Delete the power valve in the VI. You know that mod kills midrange torque and transfers it up top for greater peak power. So I'm like WTFVTEC envy?

Anyway, I love the 5MT....yeah differential bearings are its weakness. Nobody's perfect. The 6MT is better. Well it is newer, so you would expect better. I would love to have 6MT HLSD in my setup, but cable shifter as opposed to the 5MT's rod? No thanks. Like I said, nobody's perfect.

I hope in your 3rd DEK setup you leave the power valve in. at 3.0 liters, the VQ30 is a relatively small V6. Every little bit helps in giving that motor beefier low end torque.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

School is in session.

Lesson 1, give the man enough rope.



One of the best runs from the DEK setup #1 from the white nightmare.
Count the chirps

kajeno

iTrader: (1)

You used some silicone hoses between the TB and MAF, with a medal pipe in between. What are the sizes of the hoses (lengths, diameters, angles)? It also appear that you are using the 4th gen air box, but you did not use the scope to the box. Did you close the opening of the air box to the scope and drill a larger hole on the site of box closer to the fender? Very interesting!

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

I just used some generic 45 degree silicone tubing off ebay I can't remember their lengths but I did have to trim them a bit. As far a drilling anything, I never did that.

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

it's maximeltman It's all in the details lol
So I really didnt get what you were sayin there. The swap isn't worthwile w the 5 speed?

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

5th gen parts used:

Upper intake manifold, holes bored/drilled to match flipped 4th gen LIM
Throttle body
EGR guide tube
Front and rear valve covers
Anniversary Edition engine cover
Throttle cable
Cruise control actuator
Brake booster hose
Random hoses and hard tubes

4th gen parts:

Lower intake manifold flipped, not drilled, ports line up
Coil packs
TPS
IACV
EGR temp sensor

Custom made stuff:

IACV adapter plate
TB block off plate
Mid pipe

Maximeltman

iTrader: (11)

^CLEAN right there! I like the thermometer integrated into the upper rad hose, any reason you did that?

schmellyfart

iTrader: (46)

JSutter, do all of the bolt holes line up as well when the lower is flipped?

Edit: Never mind, just saw your post about in in another thread.

aackshun

iTrader: (3)

woops!

You are combining two separate issues.

Im laying out my years of fooling around woth motors in a few post so it will be confusing at first. But ive been waiting on dwap to post back because im using him to lay out some educational info.

Issue 1, what is there to be gained with a DEK swap vs. Vq35 w/ 3.0 timing (the dek swap is more expensive and yeilds less results, but a little bit easier to install)

Issue 2, the 5mt transmission.

Both initially seem unrelated but im going to tie them both in if dwap would ever reapond back!

Long story short theres a reason for everything ive been posting, if i educate one person then hooray.

Errra... Looks stock to me...