Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

OK guys and gals - I finally bought myself a maxima this afternoon :w00t:

It's a '99 Lakeshore Blue SE auto with 141K on the odometer. Bought it from the original owner for a final price of $2700. I know some of you may think that's a bit high, but from the uber crappy selection of maximas in my area, this was a steal.

Inspection showed a very small oil leak at the Rear Main Seal (apparently that's normal for these cars?), but mechanic said it was not that bad at all and could easily go for awhile before needing attention. The CVs are almost shot (start of a boot tear on one, other boot is torn). That's it. Well, she needs tires pretty bad too, but I knew that already. Mechanic said it's probably one of the cleanest engines with 140K he's seen.

I have a list of NEEDS, those being new tires and CVs. Those will get done in the next week.

Owner *said* that he did all the scheduled maintenance on time, but I have no way of verifying as he didn't keep all records.

I am thinking of having the following services done, what do you think?
Oil Change - regardless
Air Filter - regardless
Spark Plugs - maybe, but leaning on yes
Transmission fluid service - maybe, but leaning on yes (fluid dirty)
Cooling system flush - maybe
Power steering system flush - not sure
Brake system flush (brakes are good, 70% on pads) - not sure


Mechanically, that's about it above. Appearance-wise there are some things I want to get to.

Clock is not working at all...just black.
The backlighting of the area in the gauge cluster with odometer is flickering in brightness intensity...new bulb?
I'm probably going to get clear corner front turn signals soon, but that's not high on priority list.
I will be restoring the headlights with the 3M kit I have, debating on keeping stock headlamps, doing the 9004/9007 conversion, SilverStar lights, or SilverStar AND 9007 conversion...leaning towards just the SilverStars now.

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

Nice looking car!

You should inspect the spark plugs to see if they need to be replaced. I went with ngk copper plugs because they are much cheaper than platinum plugs and copper is a superior conductor. They just need to be replaced sooner (~30k miles).

Changing the transmission fluid would probably be a good idea, but absolutely DON'T have it flushed at a shop. They force fluid through the transmission and many people believe that will ruin a high mileage auto. Search for the different methods recommended.

Coolant flush won't hurt. Use distilled water and long life toyota coolant. (or another equivalent)

Power steering doesn't need to be flushed really, but you can remove the old fluid in the reservoir and refill with new atf.

A brake fluid flush won't hurt either. Always a good idea to know how long the brake fluid has been in the system.

Oh, and if you replace your axles, do it before you do the trans fluid change...since you'll leak atf during the axle swap.

Good luck!

beegeezy

iTrader: (3)

Also, $2700 isn't bad for a straight car that hasn't been abused. I paid $3000 for my car only 5 months ago. Mine had 167k on it and needed a brake job, valve cover gaskets, and struts/shocks. These cars need a lot of maintenance when they have higher miles...but they last a long time if you keep up with said maintenance.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

thanks. For the transmission on my GrandAm I had a full fluid exchange done. This is like a dialysis machine for the car, using your own transmission pump. Gets about 95% new fluid in and no harshness to it. I got it done about a month and a half ago, and the GA had 194K on it at that time, never replaced fluid afaik.

but back to the nissan -

I will be replacing the axles first, that's a good call. I lied earlier, I just bought the clear corners off ebay right now :-)

I will more than likely go with the Conti ExremeContact DW or DWS tires, probably the DWS. Good reviews from most everyone on here that have 'em.

comingup

Don't forgot to check the condition of your front radiator support.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

I mentioned that to the shop, and they told me all was well. The car has always been local to Seattle area, so not much in the way of road salt or anything.

I'm pleased with the car ;-)

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

oh yeah, I forgot...according to the seller he car has always used cheap-o gas. I plan on NOT using the cheap stuff....but was wondering, should I throw a bottle of seafoam in when I first fill up with the good stuff? Or give it a few tanks?

maxed_out_99

thats a sexy girl you got there. it reminds me of the day i brought mine home unmolested.

as for the maintenance i would say everything but the trans. if its never been done you might be opening a can of worms with that one.

i seafoam my car on a monthly basis it would definitely be a good idea.

if the previous owner used the cheap stuff you should probably replace your knock sensor.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

knock sensor is a cheap part on eBay and sort of an easy job if you've got small hands. But once you have it done, you shouldn't have to worry about it for a good 100k.

And seafoam does wonders. Get one on your new maximas done ASAP. I'm inching on doing mine soon as well. Monthly, for those who have the money. Quarterly for me

OP, I would also get the starter and alternator checked as they tend to go out midlife. But it should hold you on for maybe a good 40-60k. Just doesn't hurt to preempt the unforseen

Other than that, we welcome your new buy!!!

infinimax96

Very nice max. I paid $2300 for mine with 245k miles. You found a good one.

I agree with the knock sensor replacement. NGK spark plugs, and could probably do fluid flushes and changes.

Any other future plans for it besides clear corners? Just keeping it a basic Daily driver or you gonna drop that sexy blue *****?

VincentXero86

Well if I were you I would do oil then brakes. Then I would do a transmision swap. Because I allways want the stick shift.
(Looking for 1995 Nissan Maxima SE 5 Speed)

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Thanks guys :-)


I will be doing the CVs, oil change, knock sensor and probably brake fluid flush by this weekend. Will also be purchasing new tires as well. I'm still undecided about the transmission flush...I may see how she handles for awhile with the new tires and what not... (edit: I think that part of why I want a tranny fluid service is because when I goose the throttle, the RPMs kick waaay up to like 5.5k before I feel the bite of the tires. Then I remember my tires are bald, so I'm probably just spinning them...)

Any recommendations on brands for the KS? Should I stick with Genuine Nissan or something like ACDelco is ok? I know for my GrandAm, ACDelco was the "stick with" brand. And in general, I know NGK is the go-to on plugs...what about suppliers? is rockauto good for nissans? They were great for my GA.

Alternator was replaced a couple years ago according to the seller, so that's no worries.

I do plan on using it as a daily driver, so no huge performance mods or anything...I'm still on the fence about the lowering (I want to drop maybe an inch or two but my wife's against it, says when it snows next and I get highcentered not to call her and her Outback for help)...I may very well keep the stock setup until such time as the suspension needs to be replaced and then do a very modest 1" drop.

Surprisingly, the wife is ok with a tint, so that's one of the things I'm going to look into.

I am not the most mechanically inclided person (I work on repairing electronics for a living, not mechanical stuff) so a lot of the work I will probably end up doing will be at a shop. I have a couple I trust and have gone to for years. I mean, I can do stuff like plugs and coils, brake pad replacement and what not, but CVs, probably let the shop handle that.

Vince - no stick shift for me. LOL If the wife wants to drive it, it has to be auto.

Phromethius

ebay knock sensors do the trick. lots of sellers on ebay sell OEM sensors with the Nissan "hamburger" emblem on it anyway. Mine did and I spent $20 bucks and it cleared the ghost code too. ODBII scanners will pull the ghost code. Check that to see if its even there. Without checking the stickies I believe its the dreaded p0305, but it will never trip the Engine Light on its own.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Cool.

I need to get an OBD-II scanner anyhow. Wiill help with clearing the CEL on the wife's Subie (EGR). Good ones for under 100 bucks? Of course I will search but wondering if any of y'all have a favorite.

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

As far as scanners, I truly like my Actron CP9125. It was $50 bucks at autozone, when it's on special, but you can always find somebody selling one on craigslist or eBay for cheaper.


Knock sensors are your choice. eBay or rockauto. I bought mine at autozone cause it came with a 2 yr warranty. Pricey, but well worth it when I went to exchange it for new before the warranty ended. As long as they look solid. If there are any "breaks" between the circular part of the plastic housing, then that's a and you could easily do it yourself with a long swivel wrench.

Any more question just let us know

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

So Im getting my new tires thrown on this afternoon - I'm going with the Continental ExtremeContact DWS...a bit pricey (never paid over 500 for tires before, ouch) but seemingly well worth it.

Phromethius

I always wrap my daily driver in Yokohama rubber. It's usually 85-120 per tire so yeah it can get up there but Yoko's are just all around great for the Roads down here. I imagine Seattle might have some special circumstances though. Continental is usually whats on there from the dealer right?

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

hit me up, im down to help

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Not sure what came stock, but I think the car has a midrange set of BF goodrich tires on there now. Seattle sees lots of rain, so a good wet contact tire is a must for roads up here. Occasional snow but nothing too bad (last week we had like 10 inches but it was only here for 4 days)...

Quote from the shop for a new KS plus install: about 650 bucks. Not going to have them do that one! lol off to search the threads about installing one myself now


Thanks Blackwind I'll keep you in mind when I invariably try something and get stuck like WTF why do I now have extra bolts? :-)

benjie

Is your car FED or CALI? I have yet to see (personally) a 99 that wasn't CALI. If so, the knock sensor might not be as easy to get to.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Not sure...but I will check the VIN plate this afternoon

SandyMax96

iTrader: (12)

I think if he has that one, then it's required to take off the UIM and LIM, which, personally isn't hard to do, just labor intensive, and it can be done in a matter of 2-4 hours on avg. just have to remember the torque specs.


OP, you should invest in a Haynes manual when you get the chance. eBay that sucker for about 7 bucks as opposed to 30 from autozone. It's well worth it in my opinion when you're trying to do things in your own!

benjie

Just pop the hood. If you see four plugs right in front of the valve cover (meaning Four oxygen sensors) then you are CALI.

Blackwind

iTrader: (9)

man ill have that KS done in under a hour, ill show you how

tigersharkdude

iTrader: (20)

^^Sure about that if its cali spec? Fed spec is easy. I know one person personally who has changed a cali spec KS and they had to remove the UIM, etc, etc.

Fed spec takes ~20 minutes

TunerMaxima3000

iTrader: (4)

Ground the Starter/Transmission housing to chassis.
Ground the engine grounds on valve cover to chassis.
Ground the Alternator housing to chassis.
Re-Ground the Battery.

That will solve a LOT of problems that plauge the 4th gen right off the bat.

And as someone mentioned check/fix the rad support before it gets beyond repair and needs actual replacement

DBear

I don't know why you'd want to change the KS if it's not throwing a code, especially if you're going to put in an aftermarket one. I've had ebays last for a while, and one that lasted only a year. I can change it in about 45 minutes now (CA spec), but it's enough of a PITA that I wouldn't do it if it didn't need it. Get yourself an OBD and see if there are any ghost codes. I got my reader off ebay for about $30, and it's been fine.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

Forgot about that one...thanks for the reminder. I wanted to do that...

I will check for codes (I think it's clean, the shop would have told me of any pending codes) when I get me a reader :-)


oh yeah - almost forgot...how easy is fuel filter change?

2brosgixxer

Until today, I thought the same thing, my CEL came on today and I checked it using a screw driver on the ECU...what did I get?? 0304 for KS ONLY. I yanked the KS out and heres what I found.

Stuck a new ebay one in it and we'll see.

2brosgixxer

Fuel filter, I did not think was too bad. I did mine a short time ago in about 15-20 mins. Just make sure you pull the fuel pump fuse, start the car til it dies, then try to start it a couple more times to be sure most of the fuel is out of the lines, although some will still come out of the lines.

You can check your own codes. Right by the gas pedal is a black cover on the right. Pull that off and you will see the computer. There is a little screw on it. Turn the key to the ON position but dont start the car. Put a flat head screwdriver in the screw, turn it clockwise til it stops, then turn it counter clockwise til it stops. Your CEL should not be blinking. Count the slow flashes, then the fast flashes. EX. for my KS code i just got was 3 slow flashes followed by 4 fast flashes which equals 0304. the 4th gen stickies have all the code meanings.
Here is the link http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ere-first.html
It also explains how to get your own codes in detail.

Gismo-T

iTrader: (38)

Good find, hit up Blackwind if you need any help with anything, he's a great guy!

jholley

iTrader: (13)

If the owner used only regular gas then you need to clean those combustion chambers using the air intake. Throwing seafoam in the gas will clean the injectors but it does little for the chambers.

Don't change the oil nor replace the plugs until after cleaning the chambers.


CARBON COMBUSTION CLEANING
With the car fully warmed up after a drive insert a nylon tube into the brake booster vacuum hose after the booster check valve. Put the car in Neutral and safely exceed 2000RPM using the throttle plate.
These momentary dips need to be performed for less than a second. Dip the open end of the nylon tube into the bottle of seafoam for 1 second. Count to 5 and dip again. The engine will stumble and white smoke will billow from the exhaust. DO NOT let the RPM dip below 2000 RPM. Continue to dip for a second and count to 5 until about 2/3 of the bottle of seafoam is gone.
Now dip the nylon tube into the bottom of the seafoam bottle and slowly release the throttle until the engine stalls.
Turn off the ignition. Remove the nylon tube from the vacuum hose and reinstall the hose.
Wait at least 12 hours or until the next morning.
Start the engine. It isn’t going to like it and may stall once or twice. Plumes of white and blue smoke will billow from the exhaust far longer than you will feel comfortable with. Once the car is idling smoothly and the smoke from the tailpipe is minimal go for a drive to warm up the engine. Take about 20 minutes.

Fill the empty seafoam bottle with clean potable water and do the tap procedure you did initially with seafoam. Again NEVER let the engine RPM drop below 2000 RPM!

Once the bottle is empty keep the RPM at 2000 until the engine is running smoothly.
Let it idle as you reinstall the vacuum line.
Go for a drive. You may have a ‘Check Engine’ Light (CEL), the result of a code 1222 (O2 sensor rich) but this will settle out quickly. Give it the Italian Tune UP by dropping down into a low gear and drive at 4000 RPM for about 10 minutes.

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

I was with you until you mentioned the wait 12 hours after seafoam and the water part.

Why 12 hours, to let the seafoam REALLY do its thing? When I seafoamed the GA through the brake booster and TB we only let it sit for 30 mins. And we NEVER used water due to the chance of hyrolock. Why do you mention to do it here? What's different?

maxed_out_99

ive found this to be the best way to seafoam a car;

start the car and reach operating temperature

pour 1/4 of the can in the gas tank

pour the rest in a solo cup and set it gently next to your right front fender on the ground DONT KICK IT OVER that craps expensive

start the max

pull the brake booster line off of the firewall and cork it with your thumb before the engine dies

hold the engine just off idle maybe 1500 no higher (ill explain why)

run the seafoam until its all gone

plug up the booster line and let it idle for about 2-3 minutes

shut off your max

go inside make a sandwich have a nice cold drink and reflect

after your sandwich start the max again and BEAT THE LIVING CRAP OUT OF IT (its a VQ it can handle it)

enjoy your restored performance and gas mileage

now as for the reasoning for having it just above idle is simple,
if you hold it at a higher rpm the seafoam goes directly into the combustion chamber instead of breaking up all the deposits in the intake manifold. with our EGR system the upper intake gets real gunked up so you need the seafoam to sit in all the valleys and crevasses you can get it in

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

This is what I expected, and how we did it on my GA. no H20 or anything; Gas tank and brake booster. What about in the TB plate? specifically the Deep Creep spray...?

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

Just to clarify I hope you mean beat the crap out of it while in gear, right? Like on the highway at, ummm, enthusiastic velocities?

The FSM says not to rev the VQ over 3000 rpms for any length of time in neutral/park. Those pistons need to be doin' some work

DW

dwapenyi

iTrader: (3)

By the way nice find Amerikaner83. Its weird how that blue color for a 97-99 is so rare in the northeast, even more rare than the crimson blaze.

DW

Amerikaner83

iTrader: (17)

I know that much :-)

When I did it to my GA I kept it in P while revving the hell out of it. That car has a rev limiter that kicked in at 4500 RPM in P and N to prevent idiots from neutral-dropping...

I worry about doing it on highway though - here in WA we've got more than our fair share of passive-aggressive a$$hats who will call the po-po if they see a smoking car*

:shrug: guess I'll have to do it at dusk then, eh?


And thanks. I am just LOVING this color, and the car's not even all that clean (rain and dirt, wiill wash/wax her this weekend if not raining) right now.




*case in point: In line for the ferries around here, there's a "hotline" number to report ppl cutting in line. Same number is used to report folks who violate carpool lane rules.

maxed_out_99

Of course. Free revving is no good on any engine it's like riding a bike with no wheels when you pump your legs fast enough it starts to hurt

maxed_out_99

Well what I do is put the shifter in 2 and keep the rpms between 4500 and redline and hamer it in between that seems to work well