New Maxima maintenance - am I on right track?
01-26-2012, 05:29 PM
#42
Cheap gas doesn't hurt the KS, scan for codes before you waste your money. In the presence of an O2 code, the KS code is generally bogus.
DO NOT flush the trans, drain and refill 3 times.
If you are able to DIY, replace the CV boots yourself rather than the whole units ($7.00 per side). If you are paying labor, just replace the shafts.
Replace the spark plugs with NGK. The cheapest will be fine for.
I would never seafoam my car. If I did, i would remove all my O2 sensors first, to not foul them.
DO NOT flush the trans, drain and refill 3 times.
If you are able to DIY, replace the CV boots yourself rather than the whole units ($7.00 per side). If you are paying labor, just replace the shafts.
Replace the spark plugs with NGK. The cheapest will be fine for.
I would never seafoam my car. If I did, i would remove all my O2 sensors first, to not foul them.
01-26-2012, 06:37 PM
#43
I guess everybody has different ways of performing a seafoam ritual 
but I thought that it ALSO had to go into the oil... 
Here's what I do, as well as a couple of buddies of mine:
1. Shake seafoam contents in can until you cants shakes no mores!
2. Seperate equal partitions of the contents into clean cups or whatever you'll be using to pour the contents into the gas tank, motor and through the brake booster. (you might wanna use a funnel though for the first two, unless you have a steady hand)
3. Pour the first 2 provisions into the gas and motor. Let it sit a minute.
4. While you're waiting, unplug the hose that leads into the brake booster by the drivers' side. You might wanna use pliers or some wd-40 if it has never been taken off. It'll make a loud whoosh sound if you had the car on previously, which as everybody else has stated, do warm your car up first.
5. Start her right up and take the last cup and slowly let the contents get vacuumed up through the hose. The car will feel like stalling, but it shouldn't unless you choke her up with one big gulp, as everybody else had also stated, do it in incriments. The slower and patiently you do it, the cleaner the components will be. (Personally I've never had to rev it up to 2k or anything to suck up the liquid, but that's up to you man)
6. Shut the car off, and wait a good 10-15 minutes. Some seafoam cans will give a time frame and others won't. But generally thats my rule of thumb for time frame.
7. Start her up, and for the love of God! Make sure that you're doing it in an open place, where your neighbors won't ***** or get scared that it looks like there's a fire happening at your place.
As you start her up, and leave her in park, start giving it slight revs. Generally I rev in a gradual progression. Working my way up until red line to get all the components working thoroughly. But yes, beat that VQ for a good 5-10 high redline revs! Then just let the smoke die down a little. Driving it for a while after will still give you visible smoke but should dissipate after 20 mins or so.
Just my .02
but I thought that it ALSO had to go into the oil... Here's what I do, as well as a couple of buddies of mine:
1. Shake seafoam contents in can until you cants shakes no mores!
2. Seperate equal partitions of the contents into clean cups or whatever you'll be using to pour the contents into the gas tank, motor and through the brake booster. (you might wanna use a funnel though for the first two, unless you have a steady hand)
3. Pour the first 2 provisions into the gas and motor. Let it sit a minute.
4. While you're waiting, unplug the hose that leads into the brake booster by the drivers' side. You might wanna use pliers or some wd-40 if it has never been taken off. It'll make a loud whoosh sound if you had the car on previously, which as everybody else has stated, do warm your car up first.
5. Start her right up and take the last cup and slowly let the contents get vacuumed up through the hose. The car will feel like stalling, but it shouldn't unless you choke her up with one big gulp, as everybody else had also stated, do it in incriments. The slower and patiently you do it, the cleaner the components will be. (Personally I've never had to rev it up to 2k or anything to suck up the liquid, but that's up to you man)
6. Shut the car off, and wait a good 10-15 minutes. Some seafoam cans will give a time frame and others won't. But generally thats my rule of thumb for time frame.
7. Start her up, and for the love of God! Make sure that you're doing it in an open place, where your neighbors won't ***** or get scared that it looks like there's a fire happening at your place.
As you start her up, and leave her in park, start giving it slight revs. Generally I rev in a gradual progression. Working my way up until red line to get all the components working thoroughly. But yes, beat that VQ for a good 5-10 high redline revs! Then just let the smoke die down a little. Driving it for a while after will still give you visible smoke but should dissipate after 20 mins or so.
Just my .02
Last edited by SandyMax96; 01-26-2012 at 07:47 PM.
01-26-2012, 10:16 PM
#45
Those conti dws tires are very nice. My brother has them on his mustang and my sister has a set on her mazda3. They handle well for street driving, are great in the rain, and last a long time.
01-27-2012, 03:18 AM
#46
Cheap gas doesn't hurt the KS, scan for codes before you waste your money. In the presence of an O2 code, the KS code is generally bogus.
DO NOT flush the trans, drain and refill 3 times.
If you are able to DIY, replace the CV boots yourself rather than the whole units ($7.00 per side). If you are paying labor, just replace the shafts.
Replace the spark plugs with NGK. The cheapest will be fine for.
I would never seafoam my car. If I did, i would remove all my O2 sensors first, to not foul them.
DO NOT flush the trans, drain and refill 3 times.
If you are able to DIY, replace the CV boots yourself rather than the whole units ($7.00 per side). If you are paying labor, just replace the shafts.
Replace the spark plugs with NGK. The cheapest will be fine for.
I would never seafoam my car. If I did, i would remove all my O2 sensors first, to not foul them.
If the KS ain't broke.........Also, a little more on the axles, do they go click click click in turns?
If not, then you've got alot of time before they start to show signs of failure.
The axles fail because they lose the grease. If they arent clicking you can regrease them and patch up the boot.
By doing that you can prolong the axle life a little more. Like, say, instead of replacing this year, you could push it out to next year or 2. Save some money.
DW
01-27-2012, 03:30 AM
#47
Member
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Port Saint Lucie, Florida
Posts: 268
Thanks guys :-)
I will be doing the CVs, oil change, knock sensor and probably brake fluid flush by this weekend. Will also be purchasing new tires as well. I'm still undecided about the transmission flush...I may see how she handles for awhile with the new tires and what not... (edit: I think that part of why I want a tranny fluid service is because when I goose the throttle, the RPMs kick waaay up to like 5.5k before I feel the bite of the tires. Then I remember my tires are bald, so I'm probably just spinning them...)
Any recommendations on brands for the KS? Should I stick with Genuine Nissan or something like ACDelco is ok? I know for my GrandAm, ACDelco was the "stick with" brand. And in general, I know NGK is the go-to on plugs...what about suppliers? is rockauto good for nissans? They were great for my GA.
Alternator was replaced a couple years ago according to the seller, so that's no worries.
I do plan on using it as a daily driver, so no huge performance mods or anything...I'm still on the fence about the lowering (I want to drop maybe an inch or two but my wife's against it, says when it snows next and I get highcentered not to call her and her Outback for help)...I may very well keep the stock setup until such time as the suspension needs to be replaced and then do a very modest 1" drop.
Surprisingly, the wife is ok with a tint, so that's one of the things I'm going to look into.
I am not the most mechanically inclided person (I work on repairing electronics for a living, not mechanical stuff) so a lot of the work I will probably end up doing will be at a shop. I have a couple I trust and have gone to for years. I mean, I can do stuff like plugs and coils, brake pad replacement and what not, but CVs, probably let the shop handle that.
Vince - no stick shift for me. LOL If the wife wants to drive it, it has to be auto.
I will be doing the CVs, oil change, knock sensor and probably brake fluid flush by this weekend. Will also be purchasing new tires as well. I'm still undecided about the transmission flush...I may see how she handles for awhile with the new tires and what not... (edit: I think that part of why I want a tranny fluid service is because when I goose the throttle, the RPMs kick waaay up to like 5.5k before I feel the bite of the tires. Then I remember my tires are bald, so I'm probably just spinning them...)
Any recommendations on brands for the KS? Should I stick with Genuine Nissan or something like ACDelco is ok? I know for my GrandAm, ACDelco was the "stick with" brand. And in general, I know NGK is the go-to on plugs...what about suppliers? is rockauto good for nissans? They were great for my GA.
Alternator was replaced a couple years ago according to the seller, so that's no worries.
I do plan on using it as a daily driver, so no huge performance mods or anything...I'm still on the fence about the lowering (I want to drop maybe an inch or two but my wife's against it, says when it snows next and I get highcentered not to call her and her Outback for help)...I may very well keep the stock setup until such time as the suspension needs to be replaced and then do a very modest 1" drop.
Surprisingly, the wife is ok with a tint, so that's one of the things I'm going to look into.
I am not the most mechanically inclided person (I work on repairing electronics for a living, not mechanical stuff) so a lot of the work I will probably end up doing will be at a shop. I have a couple I trust and have gone to for years. I mean, I can do stuff like plugs and coils, brake pad replacement and what not, but CVs, probably let the shop handle that.
Vince - no stick shift for me. LOL If the wife wants to drive it, it has to be auto.
01-27-2012, 11:51 AM
#49
Buy the cheapest knock sensor you can...trust me. We aren't talking about a complicated and delicate sensor that needs to be precisely built. It is essentially a screwdriver placed on the engine being held up to your ear...not exactly astrophysics.
Ebay. Cheap. Done.
Ebay. Cheap. Done.
01-29-2012, 05:37 AM
#51
Maaaaan I Paid 40 Bucks For An OEM Knock Sensor... I Think That's A Steal Considering That Nissan Wanted 200 For The Same Part
... I've Seafoamed All My Cars Except This One But I Think It's Overdue... There's Some Choking From Time To Time When I'm At A Light But It Doesn't Stall... Guessing It Could Be The MAF or IACV... That Seems To Be The Common Problem
... I've Seafoamed All My Cars Except This One But I Think It's Overdue... There's Some Choking From Time To Time When I'm At A Light But It Doesn't Stall... Guessing It Could Be The MAF or IACV... That Seems To Be The Common Problem
01-29-2012, 11:22 PM
#52
Ok so no knock sensor 4 me...not needed. Filled up with Shell V-powah for the first time, haven't paid that much in awhile 
But with the new tires, cv axles and oil change she's running great! I can't believe how butter-smooth this car is on the road. Dayum.
Spot checked one of the plugs and it looks good, so I may not change them.
Falling quickly in love with this car...
But with the new tires, cv axles and oil change she's running great! I can't believe how butter-smooth this car is on the road. Dayum.
Spot checked one of the plugs and it looks good, so I may not change them.
Falling quickly in love with this car...
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