9Shenandoah

iTrader: (1)

max ride 41, do you if its okay to dispose of used ATF by driving by a jiffy lube at 1 am in the morning --or should i drive by a transmission shop at 3 am--or can one of those diesel tuners burn it as fuel--or should I--never mind, i'll start a new thread on this

TravisCadello

man i paid 8.99 a quart for my mobil ATF haha.

redrock5432

I know the synthetic ATFs are better, but I do not use it in my 2002. My reasoning is that I drain, via drain plug only, the ATF every 5 engine oil changes, about 15k miles. The amount (1 gallon @ $11) that comes out is about 50% of the total in the transmission including torque converter.

My assumption is that ATF is basically composed of the base oil (dino or syn) and lots of additives like friction modifiers. Synthetic ATFs are used by car mfgs for longer interval ATF changes and I assume longer life additive packages. I prefer to refresh both the oil and additives in the oil more often rather than use synthetic ATFs. I am not racing or pushing performance, just using a daily commuter.

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

i know you can mix reg with synthetic atf, but wht not use all syn if your adding it anyway???

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

go back to the honda forums smart a$$

redrock5432

primarily cost. I replace 1 gallon each drain. $10 for dino, >$24 for syn.

I don't think there is a difference (dino vs syn) so long as additive package is not depleted or the oil base is clean and still has correct viscosity. syn's may have a distinct advantage in winters at near zero or below. I don't have to deal with that.

infinimax96

I own 2 A32's One is a 5speed 97' Maxima

The other is Auto 96' I30. I was considering doing the Royal purple fluid change in the I30 for better reliability, cooling and performance.

TravisCadello

well 3 months later i got a bad problem haha....


haven't checked fluid yet just stopped driving it for now but i left this morning and it slipped in reverse and put it in drive and it slipped alittle bit then took off i drove 10 miles and it never did it again.



either im low on ATF or am gonna start seeing issues.



Not saying changing my ATF to Synthetic was a mistake it may or may not of been but im pretty sure this happened because the other day i neutral drove it and did a huge burnout on 20 inch rims with brand new falken tires lol it smoked the hell out of them sittin their but i may of messed something up or im loosing fluid pressure.



ill keep ya posted.

plugeye

haha

max ride 41

iTrader: (4)

r u serious??? cmon man, 20's, really?? and you burned out, the tranny just sittin there probably burned through a couple of gears. not too smart.

TravisCadello

Nooooo Sir lol, i kept it in 1st gear and surprised helllll out of me the e brake is excellent! lol it sat their and pulled em 20's all the way to 6500rpm and i was able to play with gas and keep it under redline i was pissed at my apartments someone slammed their door into mine. im moving so screw itt.


it didnt slip this morning at all and im very hard on my car its weighed the hell down heavy speakers,rims,me,tools so thats why everything is full synthetic Mobil 1 even power steering fluid. i drive this car hard is hell and alot of miles a day.



we had a 06 chevy malibu V6 3.5 it couldn't stand my lead foot and it toasted tranny at 77k miles and motor started getting valve ticks badly after 90k miles let it go and back in the maxxx that can handle it.

snowballblast

Thank you kind Sir!!!!

rvskull34

I have over 180k miles on my car. Haven't changed the ATF in a long time. They told me, as I've read here, that at this point I shouldn't flush it unless I'm am having transmission problems. Well yesterday I ran into some. I was on the highway when all of a sudden I seemed to lose power. My car started slowing down and the car would just stutter when I gave it gas. When I got out it smelled burnt and there was a little smoke, not much, coming from under the hood.

I got two codes for the knock sensor and one for P0732- Incorrect Gear 2 Ratio. Does this mean my transmission is shot? What else could be the problem?

If it is my transmission, how much could I expect to cost to repair?

Thanks.

redrock5432

The Gear 2 ratio code seems to point to trans. You can try to change fluid with low cost ATF to see if things improve. You can upgrade ATF if you wish later if all goes well. Also, smell ATF now. My experience is that there may be a very faint odor but not a burnt smell. The knock sensor code is out of context for the a transmission problem, it may be an old code. Good Hunting.

Ramosnumber1

I've owned a car for about 11 of the last 13 years and 9 of them were with a manual, so I might have some dumb questions about auto tranny maintenance...

When you guys talk about tranny slipping, do you mean that when it goes to shift it lags for a sec? Because that's what's happening with mine. When I'm driving it feels like it's going to shift but instead it just revs up even higher (sometimes past 5k rpm) and then it'll shift. I took my 97 Maxima SE to inspect two days ago and it failed. One of the notes from the mechanic was that the tranny fluid was dirty (it is) and should be changed. The car has 150k miles. Am I staring down a tranny fluid flush? Because I have never done it before and want to make sure it's a good idea before I take on the task.