Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Ok org, here's my rundown. This is from the recent maxima I acquired the end of last year. I have noticed that when the car reaches full warmth, it barely blows in strong heat when set to 85 degrees. This is what I have done so far.

- Replaced thermostat with OEM (because lower hose was cold after warm up)
- Bleed the system for 20 minutes on an incline while raising RPM (after replacing thermostat)

I also followed the FSM diagnostic tool for the digital climate and got the following:

- (25) flashes twice
- Only getting temperature from 2 sensors

This leaves me with two options:
1) Either there is still air in the system and it needs to be bleed out more.
2) The heater core is partially clogged (the top hose is hotter than one at the bottom).

What do you guys suggest I do?? Keep in mind that it is in the teens here in NYC and I am using a workshop to do the work and not a garage loaded with tools. Any help appreciated!

Idrivea98Maxima

iTrader: (1)

bump. same problem.

GGENIUS

iTrader: (1)

nice bump

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

All the sensors in the system need to be working and giving correct readings in order for the climate control to work correctly.

bobflood

What are the flashes telling you?? If the system is not getting a reading, or is getting an erroneous reading, from the temp sensor inside the car, it may think it's already warm.

cashoit

digital climate...

Did u really flush system good? Maybe bad heater coil or if u gettn codes then u have to replace sensors. I dont think its the heater core.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Well I did back the diagnostic this morning bright and early around 10AM and it came back with "20" which means all the sensors are good. Very weird.. How many temperature readings are you suppose to get? Do you get one from the sunload sensor?

"25" points to the sunload sensor but as stated above, I redid the test bright and early and it came back clean. The sensor in the car functions fine actually and I di see it fluctuate.

Well, after trying to gather more information on this system, I was told that I still have air in the system after bleeding it twice for two half hours on separate days. Reason they say I have air is because when I drive, I get heat and when I come to a stop, it comes in cold. Is the only way to flush this system is to leave it up to 85 degrees on an incline and just keep filling the radiator while revving the engine? Because when the fans do cut off, the thermostat closes which in turn overflows the radiator and coolant coming out until it opens back.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Also, if someone can be very generous and help me by posting a pic of their "water ****" is fully opened when the heat is turned on...because I am wondering if mine is opening fully or not. The FSM doesn't give a good clear pic.

bobflood

Because when the fans do cut off, the thermostat closes which in turn overflows the radiator and coolant coming out until it opens back.[/quote]

Unplug the fans while you are bleeding the system.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Well I decided to take a pic of the water valve for you guys because I think that's where my problem is. This is with the car on with heat at 85 degrees.


Now I can't tell if its opened fully or that spring is messed up.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Bump!

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Turn the heat all the way down, does the valve move?

Yes = It's working
No = Troubleshoot

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Yes it does move so I guess this rules out that I have a partially clogged heater core? Should I disconnect the hoses from the engine side and use an air compressor or just take it to the dealership and pay the $175 to flush the system properly?

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Just wanted to update you guys. I woke up early this morning and disconnected the hoses going to and from the heater core at the engine side and blew compressed air into it. I also bought a bottle of vinegar and poured it into the hoses on both ends and flushing vice versa. Connected everything back and the heat is working now. I am going to monitor if it is consistent and also that I don't have any leaks inside on the floor.

Trini Boom

iTrader: (5)

Reviving my thread as heat is back to coming in very weak. I took it to the dealer last month to have the coolant flush which was a deal they had going ($150). After they did the flush, the heat worked for two weeks. Yesterday, I had it set for 85 on high fan speed and it took just over an hour to get real heat coming out. How can I verify that the heater core is the problem?

Also, the car has been idling rough at stops. Not sure if they two are linked.