snowguy

What did I do wrong. I pulled an injector out. I plugged the wires back on the injector and cranked the engine. Now the engine refuses to turn over. What did I do wrong.....just wanted to check and see if an injector was spraying. Now I am worse off. There was lots of gas around the injector when I removed it and I could see gas puddling in the hole. The system certainly isn't dry of gas, but maybe this is normal with all the gas in the injector hole. Help! Ohhhh.....I pulled a spark plug out and it looks like the cylinder filled with gas. I left the spark plug out and cranked it and it pushed the gas out the spark plug hole and oddly the motor ran for about ten seconds...beit badly, but it ran, which is weird. Put the plug back in and now it won't even kick. I checked the voltage on one of the injectors and it is a steady 9 volts or so, while the key was turned on/cranking and it was just a steady 9 volts. Where is the ground for the injectors to make them ground out to fire? Maybe it is dirty.

snowguy

Yeh I did check the wires in the harness back to the egr plug for continuity and they appear to be fine. Knowing I didn't check every wire in the harness, but the two crank sensors and the camshaft sensor I checked everything with my voltmeter and they checked out fine. The fact that there was pressure in the fuel rail and gas would show the fuel pump operating correctly I would think. I guess when I pulled the injector out the fuel rail emptied into the cylinder, but that is awful lot of gas just emptying the fuel rail I would think.

I am not getting anymore computer codes and the meter says no DTC codes found when I do a scan. That fixed when I replaced the knock sensor.

The car will start on starting fluid, still, so it looks like the injectors are not firing. I talked to someone at the dealership and he didn't think it would be the key losing its programming. So I think it may be the computer. The fuel rail had lots of fuel in it when I pulled the injector out.....now I know why they say to run the car for awhile to empty the gas out of the system. I checked the resistance at the tank fuel pump and it looks like where it should be.

cashoit

im thinkin PCM man. Power control module.

when u say injector do u mean u actually took off UIM and took out injector that sprays fuel or u mean a coil which sends electric signal to spark plug to fire???

snowguy

Sure I disconnected the fuel injector and pulled it out. The fuel rail was full of gas cause I couldn't burn it off and the gas from the rail ran into the cylinder.

On a different note......I ran a test light from #6 injector, on the purple wire to the ground on the battery and the test light comes on when I turn on the key. When I crank the engine it tries to start on that one cylinder. I can hear it kicking. This is sounding like a ground, but the purple wire goes to the ECM and the other wire on the injector goes to the ignition switch. I guess my question is which end is at fault....the ignition switch or the ECM......I am guessing the ignition switch is the culprit. What does everyone think? Still seems like a bad ground to the fuel injection system, but where is it. Can't be on the ECM end or every injector would be working instead of just one don't you think. I think I'm gonna trace back to the ignition switch and run a jumper to a live wire on that end. Thoughts on this are welcome.

cashoit

if u havent done so change ignition switch. Jus inspect it to make sure its making contact with metal contacts for starting the car

cashoit

If the injectors are sprayin a nice wide spray, then but still no fire and the CPS and CKPS all check out fine then check PCM and coils

snowguy

I can't really tell if the injectors are spraying an nice wide spray, cause I'm not really sure what I need to do. It seems if I pull an injector out to check the spray all the fuel that is in the rail goes in on top of the pistons. No pressure in rail means no spray too, so I need you to explain a little more what you mean.

I don't believe it is the coils because it will start if I spray starter fluid in the MAF sensor at the air intake, so I believe this is strictly a fuel injection problem. The fuel pump is checking out good too. It seems the ECM is not sending the signal to open the injector. I think what is happening, is when I put straight ground on the one injector it is allowing that injector to open and is spraying a constant stream from the injector. If the ECM is not sending the signal to open the injector, does that mean the ECM is cooked or does it mean a different sensor is not working that tells the ECM to fire the injector. I can think of a number that possibly might do that. Can anyone offer some insight into past experience if any of these could do that.

ECT, IAT, MAF (tried disconnecting and still won't run), TPS, VSS, Transmission gear selector sensor, and CMPS

Am I missing any?

cashoit

None of the sensor u mentioned wont cause injector issue. THink thats the ECU man. It may be fried.

Try to PM NJMax, that dude know maxi like a pro. Try the Wizard too

snowguy

thanks I will Pm them and see what they say.

snowguy

Hi Everyone

Ok I got it going. I had to tow it back to the dealer and they reprogrammed the keys. So the way I see it, when it quit working, it lost the key programming the moment I stepped in the Max. So the keys were't recognized as valid keys in the very beginning of my troubles. When I would turn the key on the security light would come on after two seconds, so I think it was scanning for a valid key and after that period of time it would then glow red because it didn't recognize it. It started three times and then went into locked mode. That explains the no injector pulse, which is the common behaviour for the immobilizer. I found to test is to run a test light from the ground on your battery to the common wire on the injector and you should hear it click, and this is what it should do. I also left the test light like this and cranked the engine and it kicked on that one cylinder. Another thing for testing is to click each of the three injectors like this on that side, and then crank the engine and it should try to start. This all points to your keys needing to be reprogrammed.

The dealer said he has only seen this happen 3 other times, but I find that hard to believe. Maybe it was for cars with the exact same options as mine, and the same color lol. It is very odd though why the computer would lose the programming. The only thing I can figure is that my battery had been getting weak for quite some time, so I would advise everyone to always have a good battery. In low power situations some strange things can happen with electronics. I took the aftermarket alarm system all off too and that may have had something to do with it too, but not sure.

Thanks Everyone

camar068

Thank You Slow for starting this and I'd like to thank everyone else for posting their thoughts idea's. I've got the same issue that yota had. I don't mean to hijack your thread yota, but I can't post as I'm a new member as of today.

I believe I've tried all the above except anything to do with the fuel pump or timing chain.

She turned over great, just seemed like no fire. So I checked the cam sensor first. It was bad so I replaced it. No dice....wouldnt start. But the symptom did change a bit....it would attempt to crank after I pumped/slammed the gas a few times.

So I continued down the list from the Haynes manual and things i've seen on here including the grounding mod. Both Crank sensors tested good, MAF sensor tested good (except the part where u start it obviously).

Error codes in order posted:

0503
0705
0903
1105
0302
0303
0304

When I changed the cam sensor I thought for sure I had it because it definatly tested bad and the new one tested good out of the box.

Ideas???

Thanks In Advance
'Maro

rrg

iTrader: (1)

Mine just started to do this:
Cranking over and over and over no start. Then sometimes it starts after 7th or 8th try.

It only happens sometimes, around every 3 or 4 days it goes into this cranking episode.

I read everything so far in this topic.

But my problems started after I changed to a new battery and new plugs.

Just wanted to say Hi while I join the thread.
Trouble shooting, here I come.
97 mt-5spd 198K miles.
thx.

pemd5555

fuel pump, crank sensor, cam sensor?

rrg

iTrader: (1)

I'm starting the trouble shooting this weekend.

So my question is can the fuel pump, crank sensor, cam sensor be intermittent?

Works for days then one time stops working properly.

I will check all these but the immobilizer key relation was one thing that I saw on the forum that caught my eye because if the alarm system does not detect the chipped key it would also allow cranking all day with no start.
thx.

cashoit

you guys check the starter? Could also be ignition switch.

Bad plugs or coils wont cause no start.

Crank sensor can be intermittent. But u can test it per FSM.

PS...

You guys are NOT hijacking. Its perfectly cool to post to old threads as long as the post is RELEVANT to the thread. No matter how old the thread is.

camar068

Thanks for your replies guys.

It turns over so I didn't think it would be the starter. After pumping the gas trying to get it to start I can smell gas, so I don't think it's the pump. I changed the ignition switch about 8 months ago with a new one because it was just worn out.

Yesterday it did try the 470k ohm resistor in place of the knock sensor. The knock sensor did test bad (open, no continuity) No dice with the resistor. I hate to go out and spend ~$70 bucks on it and it not fix it.

cashoit

U clean TB, MAF, and tubing from Intake to engine?

See sig.

NoClueAboutCars

been reading this thread because i have the same problem of my 99 maxima turning but not starting. and to tell u the truth. . . im really scared of this problem because from reading this thread and the problem could be a zillion things. lolo.

at 1st i thought it was a faulty starter or fuel pump but i flipped the hood and i found 1 bad fuel injector connector with severed wires and another with badly worn connections. so ill skip the starter and fuel pump and sensors tests for now.

i got this crazy idea that i can get a new connector with some new wire and solder the connections. im a serious car noob but can any1 tell me about that semi rectangular bar that has the wires to the fuel injector connectors in it and runs between spark plug cover and the injectors? like whats it called, where the wires lead or any info on it? i couldnt find it in the haynes.

i went to a local autozone looking for fuel injector connectors for my 99 maxima and they said id have to go to a junkyard or a dealer. i had trouble expressing my problem to em because i had no idea about the semi rectangular bar that holds electrical wiring and is taped. all i could tell was that i had a bad fuel injector connector.

wesmantooth1

Sounds as if you are speaking of the Fuel Rail assembly, thiis is the grouping of wires leading to each fuel injector, ignition coils, etc.

EsQueue

iTrader: (2)

Hmmmm, so far 2 people needed their keys reprogramed. I have a 99 i30 which was moved twice a week but needed to get jumped as the batter would go low. It would usually start perfectly but 3 things happened which could have possibly caused the issue.

1st issue was that I tried to use my portable jumper from my trunk using my Amplifier's aftermarket wire which runs directly to a fuse and to the battery btw.

2nd was that the hood fell close on my portable charger as the struts are bad.

Finally I grounded it off of the throttle body.

The car started and died instantly on the 1st and 2nd cranks. It has never started since.

The sympthoms are exactly the same as when my fuel pump hose got disconnected. Tested the fuel pump and it is definately working fine.

Someone else is working on it now but this is my only car left.

I do have codes but only cause I have an auto to 5 speed swap and they ran fine.

rrg

iTrader: (1)

OK, Cleaned the MAF sensor. Undid the spark plug coils added dialectic grease, this was my idea, just looking for good clean contact.
Cleaned all the grounds, some were a little rusty. Don't forget the two ground wires, together, right in front on top of the manifold that are part of the knock sensor. The car idles rock solid now at 662rpm. I have a Scanguage to look at that.

Also I am now using my spare key, which has noticeably less wear on the teeth.
Like I said my problem is intermittent and I didn't take notice if wiggling the key helped start it last time. There's someone here who holds the key press up then turns to get it to start.

It starts real quick now but in the back of my mind I am waiting for the next crank all day episode.
thx.

Edit: Oct 12: I just got the crank all day issue just now.
Measured the Cam Position Sensor with an ohm meter got 1760ohms, I am guessing it is a Hitachi model.

How do you tell if it's Hitachi or Mitsubishi model??

I used this procedure (I removed the sensor from car) from another topic:
"with an ohmmeter - disconnect the electrical connector, measure the resistance across the two terminals: it should read as:
- 1440 to 1760 at 68 degree F for a Hitachi model, or
- 2090 to 2550 at 68 degree F for a Mitsubishi model."

So I just ordered the fuel pump $21.00 including shipping and Crank shaft sensor $21.00 from ebay.

Edit: Oct. 13 The crank position sensor down by the oil filter was coated with oil and dirt. Cleaned it and put it back.

Mnick1

I too must apologize for hijacking this thread for I am a newbie and I have the same (of course) crank all day no start problem. I cleaned cam and crank sensors charged battery to 100%, starter, coils all tested fine, spark plugs look fine. I also replaced vc gaskets, cleaned throttle body, egr and IACV. The car started right up.
I let it run for 20 mins started overheating, I checked radiator of course coolant was almost non existent, added it. I had 2 codes pull up:
P0125
P1105
Coolant temp swithch and MAP/BARO
MAP/BARO was never there before so I checked the vacuum lines (newly replaced also) corrrected the mistake of having them going to wrong ports.

However next day, cranking for 6 or so seconds then fired up. 2 hours later back to square 1, crank all day no start. I'm going to get an ignition switch now just in case but I don't think it's the problem. By the way Coolant Temp switch is new and now a code. Old one was in very very bad shape with connector rusted never had a code for it come up before. Can the car not start with coolant temp switch not working? Please help no where else to turn to but the.......dealership

wxm

iTrader: (2)

Welcome. Yes, the ECT (Engine Coolant Temp) sensor could cause a starting problem. In fact P0125 is the code for ECT sensor IIRC. That's said, I would be more worried about the losing coolant part. Does it disappear again after you refill it assuming you did refill it. The faulty ECT sensor reading could be caused by low coolant. Even worse, if the coolant was not on the ground, it had to go to some where else (more serious problem). I'd deal with the missing coolant/over heating problem first.

rrg

iTrader: (1)

OK, I have noticed a pattern now of when it cranks all day.

It starts every morning and starts every time after work.

But if I stop after a well heated engine after running for say 40miles than stop for 20min-30mins or so it does not start and goes into crank time.

It did not start a little after I stopped for a gas fill up, 10-14mins.

I let the car sit for 2 hours and tried it again and it starts right up.

I ordered the engine coolant temperature sensor, top one, right after the hose connects to the engine, $22.00 on ebay.

I also just got the fuel pump and cam sensor in the mail. Haven't changed them, yet.

UPDATE: ------------------------------------------------------

FIXED FIXED FIXED - Problem was, Starts cold, NO START when HOT ENGINE over 134deg.- It was a Bad Camshaft Position Sensor (the one on top and it's easy to change) was the problem.

wxm

iTrader: (2)

The symptom does sound like the ECT sensor, you might also want to check your coolant level. BTW, why did you spend $22 on ebay while you can get the OEM from Nissian for the same price or less?

Murray56

WOW!

I wake up this morning, finding our 97 to have this problem, come to the .org site and find too many others with the same problem.

Noticed last week that car turned over excessively. After a couple of attempts; it started. Wife tells me last night it caused her a problem, and CEL came on while coming home. I go to take a look this morning and is full of crank with no fire.

During the past couple of years, I have replaced the ignition switch and starter.

I will add my findings to this thread once we start the troubleshooting process.

MC Murray

ef9

iTrader: (8)

What codes did you get?

Murray56

Car was found to have a bad Camshaft Position Sensor. {CPS} Mechanic quoted the code to be 340. They replaced the sensor and car started right up.

MC MUrray

rrg

iTrader: (1)

OK, oops on the bad choice on where I bought the ECT sensor.

Sensor is now installed and it now happened again, just now.

Starts every morning and everyday after work. No hesitation what so ever. With a new battery it jumps real quick.

But now the temperature was 192deg. when I arrived home from work.

I then stopped for a haircut by my house.
35-40min later 182deg. car cranks and cranks, no start.

Walk home, 1 hour later return and check temperature via Scanguage
now 134deg. starts right up.

Where's the next temperature sensor?

camar068

Well lets see if we can save others some time here. It's running. Here's the full run down of what I did.

-checked here first because I didnt know how to run the codes or have the reader I have now.
-checked cam sensor found bad and replaced (~$70)
-still no start but i could hear fire and smell gas
-checked both crank sensors
-still no go
-checked codes and got the following
0503
0705
0903
1105
0302
0303
0304
-changed knock sensor finally, $35 online including shipping, (with the help of my 12 year old daughter ((small hands and arms))....was done in 10 minutes...and she got it the first try!!!)
-it started but ran very rough
-pulled the codes with scanner and p0340 and p1336
-tested cam sensor (changed in first step) tested good
-went to put it back on and it didnt snap so I investigated further.....I had to put so much pressure to get it to snap on that I thought it was going to break the sensor.
-FIRED RIGHT UP!!!

So in a nutshell, test all the above (takes about 1 hr to check the cam, crank(s), and knock sensor. And make sure they snap when you put them back on. I can't believe this, I feel like an idiot.

Oh yeh, whoever said they too the air filter cover and hose assembly off to get to the sensor.....Thanks a Lot....that made life much easier getting to the knock sensor. That and a long pair of hemostats from work to get the screw and old sensor out once I dropped them.

Thanks a Bunch guys....I thought I was gonna have to scrap her.

Now lets go troubleshoot the light that came on....got a feeling it's gonna be the cat or the oxygen sensors. It's got 220k miles on it so I'm sure they're due for replacement plus I'm getting ~22mpg.

Camar068

Lando10101

Curious , with the key forward , should there be a certain voltage at the crank sensors , cam sensor etc.?

fr8mover

ok new here so I have to add my post to this .. here goes daughters 98 maxima has always started hard since I got it ( crank on it for what seems like longer than what it should be) to start but once started it runs great I have had to replace the starter about 3 months ago now it wont start at all when it did this it was parked on a slight incline I figured the fuel pump had died acct the cold weather ran low on gad alot etc I shoved it onto a level spot after unhooking the battery for about 10 min or so and it started as long as you pumped the gas pedal drove home just fine so I replaced the fuel filter and it was in rea bad shape you could barley blow through it I then started the car 3 or 4 times with no problem she goes to leave the next day and no start again here is what i have done so far .. pulled two different spark plugs and both have good spark both plugs were wet with gas when pulled checked ohms on the ckps at the front of the engine and it is in specs ........ cleaned both of the ckps not really sure the issue is it seems to have fuel and spark it turns over normal so I dont think the timing belt/chain is bad it does however kick back against the starter and sounds like a backfire through the air filter though andy ideas thoughts or suggestions are more than welcome thanks in advance

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

remove all grounds and clean them an u can add another one from negative on battery to a bolts on the starter here is a thread with video read it

http://forums.maxima.org/4th-generat...ont-start.html

cashoit

Clean TB and MAF per how tos. Could be ignition swtich too.

fr8mover

i cleaned the main ground off of the battery at the battery and there it connects to the engine going to add a couple of more this afternoon and see what happens

luke95gxe

iTrader: (4)

post outcome

fr8mover

replaced the factory ground cable with a 1 ga one and added a 6 ga from the batt to the trans housing and added a 10ga from the bat to the strut tower didnt change a thing I changed the starter this summer but now it sounds like it might be dragging I have had it on the charger for a day and its not turning over very fast even if I put the charger on the boost start side

bobflood

When this exact same starting problem happened with my '97, I finally replaced the crankshaft position sensor at the driver's side front of the engine at the junction with the transmission. Even though the sensor tested fine, my shop found that it was behaving erratically. Since the replacement a year ago, it has started flawlessly.

fr8mover

would the outside temp affect the ohm readings on the sensors ? I was rechecking them today and the cam sensor only read 1400??? still thinging the starter is giving up the ghost from so much cranking it will barley crank at all now unless I put the batt charger over to boost/start mode

bobflood

Outside temp shouldn't change readings much. While you MAY have damaged the starter, probably not. You still need to cure the underlying problem that is preventing proper starting.