speedemn

iTrader: (14)

I purchased the upgraded H3 foglight harnesses from SUVLIGHTS and had a look under my hood last night. I have no idea how to integreate these into my existing foglight wiring. The kit came as follows:

Relay, with a positive and negative (going to battery) and at the end of a very long electrical wire were a couple of flat prongs (a male and a female) labelled trigger and bridge.

Those are the only 2 electrical connections on the whole wiring harness. I have no idea where and how to integrate these into my 4th gen foglight system. The suvlights website only has wiring diagrams for the other headlight harnesses and they all have actual plugs that connect to the bulb wiring (for example 9005 and 9006 as follows: http://www.suvlights.com/wire-harness.htm). These install instructions clearly have two plugs (one for each side - driver and passenger) that are spaced far apart enough to reach both sides of the car.

It also came with a bag of connectiors to splice into the wires. Any help would be appreciated. Has anyone ever bought the H3 harnesses from suvlights and wired them in?

Thanks.

MAXIN

iTrader: (5)

Did you tell them you wanted it for H3? Its supposed to be plug and play with H3 plugs. I just ordered mine but for the 9004s...(didnt get it yet though) I dont even see an option for H3 on their site where it says "size". Maybe they sent you a universal one which is not plug and play?

But to wire it manually, the trigger would the wire (from foglight switch or stock relay) that goes to 12 volts when you turn on the foglights.

Postive to battery of course and negative to ground.

The bridge, im guessing would be the output to the stock connector going to the higher watt bulbs.

Your probably going to have to cut the current 12 volt wire to the fogs, use that as the trigger, then connect the bridge back to the spot where you cut the fogs. The splices are probably to connect one fog to the other.

The relays on that harness would then be powering the fogs off the battery.

Its probably not exactly done this way since I cant see your harness but that would be the general idea. I'd contact them to ask if they have an H3 plug and play harness...or one with actual H3 male/female connectors.

speedemn

iTrader: (14)

Yeah Jen at suvlights knew that this was for H3. Here is a pic that I took of all the connectors in this harness. As you can see, the trigger and bridge (male and female flat connectors) are only about 6" apart. The + and - are obvious. Any ideas where I need to splice these into and why would they come with flat connectors at the end if I have to splice these wires in?

Sorry for the large pic... but I thought that might help with identifying the connectors. Excuse the pet hair on the carpet... the pets were playing with the cables earlier...

MAXIN

iTrader: (5)

Where does the red wire coming from the relay (going into the loom with the green wire go?)

If that red wire is comming from pin 87 on the relay, then thats your output to the fogs (You didnt show the other end of that wire in the pic). Its only one wire so you would need to tap into it for the other fog.

The trigger and bridge are on the same connector so I was wrong about that being the output earlier. You would need to make one seperate wire tapped into the switched 12 volt foglight wire (either at the stock relay or down by the H3 plug) with the correct end connecter to just plug into the trigger. The bridge I guess is if you wanted to connect another wire to the same trigger - so just electric tape it up.

The thing is, for their headlight harnesses (9004 etc..) - they use two relays, 1 for each headlight. With this setup your only using one for both fogs, so I'm not sure if the harness will still be as effective.

You may need to get another H3 harness for the other fog - but Id call them and ask if its necessary. If that is the case, then the Trigger from the second harness, would connect to the Bridge from first harness.


Also....if you did the foglight re-wire mod, then the wire from the bumper lamp, (or whatever you tapped into) could also be used as the trigger in this case, but may be easier to just do everything closer to the H3 connectors at the fogs, since the wires are so short.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

have fun melting your stock fogs!

speedemn

iTrader: (14)

Thanks, that was helpful or did you actually have hidden constructive input in there?

speedemn

iTrader: (14)

When I traced that wire inside the loom I noticed something else... this is how the harness is set up:

Relay pin 30: Red wire for + on battery
Relay pin 86: Green wire that goes all the way to the end of the harness and splits to a flat male plug for bridge and a flat female plug for trigger
Relay pin 85: One black wire for - on battery and another black wire that goes into the loom, halfway to the end of the harness wiring
Relay pin 87: Red wire that also goes into the loom, halfway to the end of the harness wiring. This red and the above black wire have no plug ends on them so I am assuming that they will be spliced.

So I am not sure if I do in fact need another harness for the other fog. BTW I did do the foglight rewire mod... totally forgot about that! I did it 3 years ago!

Here are the connectors that I was provided with:

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

i take it you want to run higher wattage bulbs. i ran 100 watt bulbs and it flaked my reflector in my stock housing. the extreme heat cracked and peeled the inside coating.

speedemn

iTrader: (14)

I thought about that and have a spare set of fogs just in case. But I did a bit of research on this from older threads and noticed that since the 95-96 fogs are glass vs. the 97-99 fogs which are plastic... glass has better heat dissipation. 95-96 guys seemed to have fewer problems and any problems were wiring harness related which is why I am not taking any chances there. I think there is another guy locally who is running them on his 2k2 (stock harnesses and all).

We'll see what happens - I will keep a close eye on it.

MAXIN

iTrader: (5)

The reason why I say you may need another harness is because I am not sure the relay is strong enough to support the current drawn from both fogs running higher watt bulbs. That said you can probably save some money by just getting another relay and some more wires/taps/splices..etc yousrself since you have to cut and splice wires anyway. But this will involve more splicing. Easier to just get another H3 harness.

But basically from what I can see, the red wire and the black wire that have no ends is the output to the fogs( + and -). You will need to cut the wiring from the stock harness going to the H3 plugs and tap these wires in. You would then splice seperate + and - wires into these wires for the other fog.

Another thing you could do is buy two H3 plugs (suvlights sells plugs but I didnt see H3 on the site or you can just search the net) and tap these wires right into these new plugs and just plug them into the fogs. That way you dont have to worry about cutting off the stock plugs. This method, only one wire would be spliced into the stock harness - thats the 12volt wire going to the stock plug for the trigger. (Tap anywher along this wire).

They didnt give you any flat connectors? (will need one to crimp on to the trigger wire. - or you can just splice into that green wire.

speedemn

iTrader: (14)

I spoke to Jen at suvlights on the phone when I ordered the bulbs and harness. He is well aware of the higher wattage bulbs and sent me the just the single harness. It does have a 35A fuse in line with the power. I have been trying to call suvlights but it keeps going straight to a voicemail on another phone.

From the placement of the wires, I figure that the red and black wire with no ends which are located halfway up the length of the whole harness, will have to be spliced into the + and - before the plug, on the driver side foglight - make sense?

Then since the trigger is all the way at the end of the length of the harness, I thought that would plug right into the bulb on the passenger side foglight (ie bypass the plug entirely on the passenger side) - does that make any sense? Otherwise it seems like I am not using the trigger plug at all.

This would be a good option if in in fact I need to run separate + and - wires to the passenger side foglights... but I really need to speak to Jen and see how he normally would hook this up since he sold me both the bulb and the harness.

JSutter

iTrader: (46)

no foglights on a 4th gen are plastic. im not talking about the lens anyhow. im talking aobut the reflective surface. also the out put really isnt any different.

speedemn

iTrader: (14)

The cover on the 95-96 are glass, but I am not sure about the reflective surface. I know people who have put it in the oven at pretty high temperatures without any problems. Of course if the housing develops a leak it will chip the reflective coating off. I do not foresee a problem in that respect... but I will keep my fingers crossed. You might have had a tiny leak or maybe age just got to the foglight and the coating chipped off... who knows.

I still cannot get a hold of Jen at suvlights... or anyone there for that matter. What's up with them? Did they close shop or something?

MAXIN

iTrader: (5)

You can splice them, but probably better to cut. Remember the fogs will be powered off the battery from these wires so there's no need for the stock wire to also power the fogs -- so just cut both the + and - anywhere before the plug - then connect the new wires to the point you cut going to the plugs.

No the trigger is looking for a 12 volt source, not supplying 12 volts. This you can tap into the same stock + wire that you cut above (the side going back to the stock relay box). This will be used to "trigger" the relay on the harness to supply power to the fogs from the battery. You can either get the correct gender connector (male/female) from an auto parts store(or radio shack), crimp this on to the + wire and plug into the trigger... or just simply splice the wires together.

You will need to get two seperate wires for the passenger side fogs. Splice one end of these wires into the + and - coming from the harness, and the other side will be "cut" into the stock wiring the same way the driver side is done. (to the side going to the plug).


I received my headlight harness from them and it does have all the plugs with two relays...etc.. Try blocking your caller ID ... see if they pick up..lol