Fixing a speedometer and odometer that work sporadically
Link doesn't work
07-25-2012, 02:10 PM
#42
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Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 4
Instrument Cluster Repair 98-99 Maxima
Speedometer erratic; Temp and Fuel gauges pegged to high? Odo reading 999999? WE can repair. Visit http://www.mrwhizard.com for more info
07-25-2012, 03:22 PM
#43
Speedometer erratic; Temp and Fuel gauges pegged to high? Odo reading 999999? WE can repair. Visit http://www.mrwhizard.com for more info
10-05-2012, 12:14 PM
#44
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Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 1
INTERMITTENT SPEEDOMETER
For a 10 year old thread, the info is still good.
1996 Maxima automatic.
I bought a VSS but truely had no inclination to get to it. Removed the cluster instead and tighten all the scsrews on the back. They were not loose or falling out but all allowed me to tighten them a bit.
Speedometer / odomoter works just fine and as a plus, my cruise control (which had been out for some time) now works also.
For a 10 year old thread, the info is still good.
1996 Maxima automatic.
I bought a VSS but truely had no inclination to get to it. Removed the cluster instead and tighten all the scsrews on the back. They were not loose or falling out but all allowed me to tighten them a bit.
Speedometer / odomoter works just fine and as a plus, my cruise control (which had been out for some time) now works also.
08-05-2013, 01:10 PM
#45
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 1
Same issue, new take on it.
I have same problem with the instrument panel in my '99 maxima.. Speedometer and Tachometer stays at zero... Coolant temp gauge stays on 'H'. This happened right after had gas filled up at Hess. I read this thread but did not get clear idea what to change or fix.
Tapping on plastic cover brings the cluster back to life for a moment but it goes dead again. I tried to check-out the link provided here, but that do not exist anymore. Anyone else has any picture or direction how to open cluster and reach to the back of the panel?
Tapping on plastic cover brings the cluster back to life for a moment but it goes dead again. I tried to check-out the link provided here, but that do not exist anymore. Anyone else has any picture or direction how to open cluster and reach to the back of the panel?
also it seemed that when i press on the brakes the gauge cluster is more likely to begin functioning normally again, so is this a crappy ground connection somewhere or maybe a short that is tripping me up?
anyone who even has a guess i am willing to try it. i leave for college in 11 days so please don't hesitate!
08-06-2013, 07:10 PM
#46
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Posts: 12
I tightened the 4 screws behind the speedometer, and at first everything seemed better for about 20 minutes of driving, but like you ejis4lsu, it all went bazeerk again! I took my car to Autozone and had them scan for error codes. I had read on this forum that P0500 is a bad VSS. No error codes present though, so I'm assuming the VSS is fine (plus, cruise control works great, and I assumed from other posts that a broken VSS would mean cruise would do funny things).
I'm thinking I need to replace the whole instrument cluster then. My main question is regarding my digital odometer. Is the mileage stored on the computer, or is it stored in the cluster? If it's stored within the cluster, I assume you need to have it replaced by someone that knows what they're doing (most likely at a dealer
) in order to ensure the mileage is accurate. Any advice on replacing the instrument cluster and where to get one for cheap would be greatly appreciated, since that seems to be the next step I need to take.
I'm thinking I need to replace the whole instrument cluster then. My main question is regarding my digital odometer. Is the mileage stored on the computer, or is it stored in the cluster? If it's stored within the cluster, I assume you need to have it replaced by someone that knows what they're doing (most likely at a dealer
) in order to ensure the mileage is accurate. Any advice on replacing the instrument cluster and where to get one for cheap would be greatly appreciated, since that seems to be the next step I need to take.
08-09-2013, 03:33 AM
#47
Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Maine
Posts: 1,528
Has anyone tried to adjust the wires feeding into the gauge cluster? i know in my '99 that the brown wire with a white stripe on it that feeds into the speedometer seemed loose. i played with it, no permanent changes or fixes, just shoving it further into the cluster so it wouldn't slip, i tightened all the screws on the back of the cluster and tested the speed sensor. All seemed fine. i put everything back in its place and it worked fine for a day or two. but it has reverted back to its old habits again. later tonight i will be replacing the speed sensor all together so maybe that is it.
also it seemed that when i press on the brakes the gauge cluster is more likely to begin functioning normally again, so is this a crappy ground connection somewhere or maybe a short that is tripping me up?
anyone who even has a guess i am willing to try it. i leave for college in 11 days so please don't hesitate!
also it seemed that when i press on the brakes the gauge cluster is more likely to begin functioning normally again, so is this a crappy ground connection somewhere or maybe a short that is tripping me up?
anyone who even has a guess i am willing to try it. i leave for college in 11 days so please don't hesitate!
On the 95-97 analog, it is possible to change the mileage yourself. I did mine myself to show the correct mileage when i swapped clusters.
12-16-2013, 07:59 PM
#48
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Join Date: Dec 2013
Posts: 1
SOLUTION to speedometer and odometer problems!!
Before you go spending more money, TRY THIS...AND FIX IT FOR FREE.
BTW, I just replaced the VSS last week...which was a waste of time and money..speed-o would work for a minute, then right back to ZERO.
Okay, I read about tightening the screws on the back side of the panel, which I did. Then I realized what the problem was. The plastic-wrap 'board' on the back..(not sure of the official name), it carries current to each component with little strips of copper tape..its got a protective see-thru coating...except in the spots where the connections are made..you'll see. The problem is simple...
THE WASHERS ON THE SCREWS ARE TOO SMALL - SO THEY END UP SLIPPING THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE PLASTIC-WRAP BOARD THINGY.. THUS LOSING THE CONSTANT CONNECTION, CAUSING GAUGE FAILURE.
Go look in your 'junk drawer' for some little metal washers, slightly larger than those provided...add a washer to each screw...careful when screwing back in...don't wanna have 'em touching other 'lines' that go to other components, obviously..be sure of a good connection, and tighten. Hope I saved you $$$.. If so, buy some new shoes for a kid who's got it rough.
My first post here and I'm sure there'll be one or two just dying to school me on proper names, and such. So...I'm just saying - GO EASY...if I already knew it all, chances are I wouldn't be here in the first place.
BTW, I just replaced the VSS last week...which was a waste of time and money..speed-o would work for a minute, then right back to ZERO.
Okay, I read about tightening the screws on the back side of the panel, which I did. Then I realized what the problem was. The plastic-wrap 'board' on the back..(not sure of the official name), it carries current to each component with little strips of copper tape..its got a protective see-thru coating...except in the spots where the connections are made..you'll see. The problem is simple...
THE WASHERS ON THE SCREWS ARE TOO SMALL - SO THEY END UP SLIPPING THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE PLASTIC-WRAP BOARD THINGY.. THUS LOSING THE CONSTANT CONNECTION, CAUSING GAUGE FAILURE.
Go look in your 'junk drawer' for some little metal washers, slightly larger than those provided...add a washer to each screw...careful when screwing back in...don't wanna have 'em touching other 'lines' that go to other components, obviously..be sure of a good connection, and tighten. Hope I saved you $$$.. If so, buy some new shoes for a kid who's got it rough.
My first post here and I'm sure there'll be one or two just dying to school me on proper names, and such. So...I'm just saying - GO EASY...if I already knew it all, chances are I wouldn't be here in the first place.
05-24-2014, 08:50 AM
#49
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 3
what year car was yours maxima
what year maxima was yours I have a 1996 nissan maxima gxe and I have two gauges clusters with the same problem and I don't know how to get the mph black speed needle off. If you have any info please e-mail me nissanm69@aol.com or if you know someone would rebuilds clusters
05-24-2014, 09:10 AM
#50
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 3
96 nissan maxima gxe Guage problem the mph gauge
I replaced my vss aka speed sensor and had the cel reset and ran the car on the highway doing 50 to 60 miles and that worked so I could do my inspection, 2 days later the light came back on with the same speed sensor code came up. I went to buy a cluster from the junk yard fo $50 bucks it seem to work but the same problem happened the mph gauge needle drops while driving. Do any one knows how to get the black mph needle off and is there a viedo of how to do it. I live in bronx, new York if you know someone who repairs or rebuilds gauge clusters. E-mail: nissanm69@aol.com
05-24-2014, 09:12 AM
#51
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Join Date: May 2014
Posts: 3
what about 1996
Speedometer erratic; Temp and Fuel gauges pegged to high? Odo reading 999999? WE can repair. Visit http://www.mrwhizard.com for more info
05-24-2014, 01:46 PM
#52
Just follow the instruction on here. I fixed the same problem on a 97 Maxima SE recently. Took out the speedometer and tight up the screws on the back, also re-soldered the big connection point on the back of the circuit board. When I put it back together everything worked great and still does until this day.
06-09-2014, 09:27 PM
#53
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: nyc/ga
Posts: 21
Hey guys I have a 2002 maxima and my gas tank reads full even tho its not and even when the gas tank is empty it reads alil below full..... my speedometer doesnt work at all but the temp for the car works just fine im just as mind bottled as anyone about these issues unfortunately I cant tell how much gas I have ...took it to a mechanic claimed I had a bad tank sender and couple of codes p0462 p0113 p1614 and p1706 unfortunately im just entering the max life and would love some assistance as I love my 02 6spd and just got it
06-10-2014, 05:51 AM
#54
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 2
Instrument Problems - 99 Maxima
I was having issues with my Fuel, Speed, Tach, and temp gauges. They would work fine for the first few minutes of driving, and then they would either read incorrectly or not at all. For example the speedometer was reading 98 when I was at a stoplight. The digital odometer did not read at all. I also had check engine codes P0500, P0325, and P0500P. From reading stuff on here and other sites, I was convinced it was my instrument cluster.
Turns out it was my alternator. Luckily I found that out before buying a replacement cluster. I found it out because my car died on my way to work. I had it towed home and checked the voltage at the battery with the car running. It was around 13.4V with lights, defrost, and fan to max. I replaced the alternator and now it reads around 14.4V.
If you are having instrument issues, I would definitely check your alternator before doing too much.
Great alternator replacement video:
The only thing I did not do was pull the radiator hose. I was able to get the fans out without removing the hose.
Turns out it was my alternator. Luckily I found that out before buying a replacement cluster. I found it out because my car died on my way to work. I had it towed home and checked the voltage at the battery with the car running. It was around 13.4V with lights, defrost, and fan to max. I replaced the alternator and now it reads around 14.4V.
If you are having instrument issues, I would definitely check your alternator before doing too much.
Great alternator replacement video:
The only thing I did not do was pull the radiator hose. I was able to get the fans out without removing the hose.
06-10-2014, 11:15 AM
#55
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2014
Location: nyc/ga
Posts: 21
I was having issues with my Fuel, Speed, Tach, and temp gauges. They would work fine for the first few minutes of driving, and then they would either read incorrectly or not at all. For example the speedometer was reading 98 when I was at a stoplight. The digital odometer did not read at all. I also had check engine codes P0500, P0325, and P0500P. From reading stuff on here and other sites, I was convinced it was my instrument cluster.
Turns out it was my alternator. Luckily I found that out before buying a replacement cluster. I found it out because my car died on my way to work. I had it towed home and checked the voltage at the battery with the car running. It was around 13.4V with lights, defrost, and fan to max. I replaced the alternator and now it reads around 14.4V.
If you are having instrument issues, I would definitely check your alternator before doing too much.
Great alternator replacement video:
The only thing I did not do was pull the radiator hose. I was able to get the fans out without removing the hose.
Turns out it was my alternator. Luckily I found that out before buying a replacement cluster. I found it out because my car died on my way to work. I had it towed home and checked the voltage at the battery with the car running. It was around 13.4V with lights, defrost, and fan to max. I replaced the alternator and now it reads around 14.4V.
If you are having instrument issues, I would definitely check your alternator before doing too much.
Great alternator replacement video:
The only thing I did not do was pull the radiator hose. I was able to get the fans out without removing the hose.
Do you know of any vids on replacing the 02-03 max cluster I have one that I could change in see if that works for me and then check the alternator
06-25-2014, 04:50 AM
#58
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Join Date: Jun 2014
Posts: 2
Well I guess I thought the alternator fixed the cluster. The instruments worked for about 10 days and now they are having issues again. I have a 20 minute daily commute one way. Usually they work fine in the morning and quit working in the evening half way through the drive. This morning they quit after about 15 minutes. I am really confused what is going on. I checked my alternator voltage and it is about 14.4V.
11-12-2014, 07:36 PM
#59
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: San Rafael, Ca
Posts: 12
Odometer Not Working
I have a 96 Max Se and my speedo and all else work fine, but my odometer and trip counter just quit working, and it is the old non-digital type. Anyone have any suggestions? In fact I took it to 10 minute oil change yesterday and am pretty sure thats when it quit.Also, does the computer store the actual mileage? Thanks
Last edited by emjee; 11-12-2014 at 07:44 PM.
11-17-2014, 09:00 PM
#60
Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Spartanburg S.C
Posts: 93
I have a 96 Max Se and my speedo and all else work fine, but my odometer and trip counter just quit working, and it is the old non-digital type. Anyone have any suggestions? In fact I took it to 10 minute oil change yesterday and am pretty sure thats when it quit.Also, does the computer store the actual mileage? Thanks
So I used my finger nails to scrap it away and put it back in and all is well. It also got rid of the vss code and a/t comm line code. I have a picture
05-30-2016, 01:08 PM
#61
Before you go spending more money, TRY THIS...AND FIX IT FOR FREE.
BTW, I just replaced the VSS last week...which was a waste of time and money..speed-o would work for a minute, then right back to ZERO.
Okay, I read about tightening the screws on the back side of the panel, which I did. Then I realized what the problem was. The plastic-wrap 'board' on the back..(not sure of the official name), it carries current to each component with little strips of copper tape..its got a protective see-thru coating...except in the spots where the connections are made..you'll see. The problem is simple...
THE WASHERS ON THE SCREWS ARE TOO SMALL - SO THEY END UP SLIPPING THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE PLASTIC-WRAP BOARD THINGY.. THUS LOSING THE CONSTANT CONNECTION, CAUSING GAUGE FAILURE.
Go look in your 'junk drawer' for some little metal washers, slightly larger than those provided...add a washer to each screw...careful when screwing back in...don't wanna have 'em touching other 'lines' that go to other components, obviously..be sure of a good connection, and tighten. Hope I saved you $$$.. If so, buy some new shoes for a kid who's got it rough.
My first post here and I'm sure there'll be one or two just dying to school me on proper names, and such. So...I'm just saying - GO EASY...if I already knew it all, chances are I wouldn't be here in the first place.
BTW, I just replaced the VSS last week...which was a waste of time and money..speed-o would work for a minute, then right back to ZERO.
Okay, I read about tightening the screws on the back side of the panel, which I did. Then I realized what the problem was. The plastic-wrap 'board' on the back..(not sure of the official name), it carries current to each component with little strips of copper tape..its got a protective see-thru coating...except in the spots where the connections are made..you'll see. The problem is simple...
THE WASHERS ON THE SCREWS ARE TOO SMALL - SO THEY END UP SLIPPING THROUGH THE HOLES IN THE PLASTIC-WRAP BOARD THINGY.. THUS LOSING THE CONSTANT CONNECTION, CAUSING GAUGE FAILURE.
Go look in your 'junk drawer' for some little metal washers, slightly larger than those provided...add a washer to each screw...careful when screwing back in...don't wanna have 'em touching other 'lines' that go to other components, obviously..be sure of a good connection, and tighten. Hope I saved you $$$.. If so, buy some new shoes for a kid who's got it rough.
My first post here and I'm sure there'll be one or two just dying to school me on proper names, and such. So...I'm just saying - GO EASY...if I already knew it all, chances are I wouldn't be here in the first place.
Last edited by Shannon and Ian; 06-05-2016 at 06:01 PM.
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