Is the MEVI as great as it seems? EVO MR vs STI comparo used
10-03-2004, 08:03 PM
#41
I need to try something on my changeover setting next time I'm at the track. The guy that tried to tune the V-AFC left the setting for the changeover at 5200/Open and 3700/Close. I think he forgot about the lower setting after getting the opening setting right. I may mess with the closing point and see if I can get my MPH back. I've never really paid attention to where my shifts fall to but if 2nd picks up at say, 3800, then it's going to be open when it need to be closed and I'm going to be severely underpowered from there to 5200, if it can even recover totally. Or it may not matter at all.
Any auto's pay attention to their shift points? About how many RPM's do we drop between gears?
Any auto's pay attention to their shift points? About how many RPM's do we drop between gears?
10-03-2004, 08:42 PM
#42
Originally Posted by Dave B
On the dyno and without the JWT ECU, my car lost anywhere from 5-10whp from 4200-5000rpms. Not until 6000rpms did the MEVI actually gain power over the stock intake manifold.
10-03-2004, 08:43 PM
#43
There's no reason to have the "close" point any lower than the open point, you are losing power and time plain and simple opening it that low. You want the VI, whether it be MEVI or 2KVI to only be open at the point where you make more power with it open than you would with it closed. If you open it lower than that you are not making as much power as you could be.
10-03-2004, 08:44 PM
#44
Originally Posted by ScreamingVQ
What happens between 5-6K? I assume it was the same? If the automatic shifted at 7,000rpms, it'll drop back to 5,000rpms. (if the tach is correct that is) A stock 4th gen will upshift at 6,100rpms and drop 2,000rpms after.
RPM drop is a ratio determined by the gear ratios, it is not a set RPM value, and it is not the same in every gear.
10-03-2004, 09:04 PM
#45
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
There's no reason to have the "close" point any lower than the open point, you are losing power and time plain and simple opening it that low. You want the VI, whether it be MEVI or 2KVI to only be open at the point where you make more power with it open than you would with it closed. If you open it lower than that you are not making as much power as you could be.
10-03-2004, 09:07 PM
#46
Originally Posted by BSwithTF
I need to try something on my changeover setting next time I'm at the track. The guy that tried to tune the V-AFC left the setting for the changeover at 5200/Open and 3700/Close. I think he forgot about the lower setting after getting the opening setting right. I may mess with the closing point and see if I can get my MPH back. I've never really paid attention to where my shifts fall to but if 2nd picks up at say, 3800, then it's going to be open when it need to be closed and I'm going to be severely underpowered from there to 5200, if it can even recover totally. Or it may not matter at all.
Any auto's pay attention to their shift points? About how many RPM's do we drop between gears?
Any auto's pay attention to their shift points? About how many RPM's do we drop between gears?
10-03-2004, 09:23 PM
#47
Originally Posted by Nealoc187
RPM drop is a ratio determined by the gear ratios, it is not a set RPM value, and it is not the same in every gear.
10-13-2004, 01:02 PM
#49
The value of the MEVI shouldn't only be looked at in terms of the 1/4 mile, as has been said 1,000,000 times. Sure my car doesn't feel as quick around town, but a week and 1/2 ago i ran with a 3.5 auto maxima with intake, y-pipe, exhaust, and reflashed ECU on the freeway and he only pulled a 1/2 carlength (top of 3rd shifting to 4th) at the most when reacting to my punch. We had slowed down to 45 so it was a fair race. That really impressed me and I don't even have the JWT ECU yet.
10-13-2004, 07:08 PM
#50
Well I should wrap this up before I start to ramble.
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,830
Originally Posted by krismax
My car has a exreme amount of low and midrange along with the abilily to spank redline at 8000rpm.The vi is where its at ,with every bolt on mod you want besides vi you will never touch my times.
In this wheather i can not hook up with these Drag radials even with a burn out. i can still run 2.35,s 60's at 14.1's and a 2.4's 60's can still get me a 14.3's. I think ive had a 14.4 1/4 with a 2.5 60ft. This 00 vi is king.
In this wheather i can not hook up with these Drag radials even with a burn out. i can still run 2.35,s 60's at 14.1's and a 2.4's 60's can still get me a 14.3's. I think ive had a 14.4 1/4 with a 2.5 60ft. This 00 vi is king.
Oh man that's really nice, You should spray around 7000K until you hit 8000k you would beat many cars on the road. get like 100 shot of nos and spray that around 7000k. You will be in a good shape. VQ will fly you away.......
10-13-2004, 09:03 PM
#51
Not DAVEB the parts guy
Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2000
Posts: 8,555
Travis-
Are you saying that on your last time out your butterflys stayed open above 3800rpms after the first switchover? If so, you will be faster and quicker you're next outing. Letting those butterflys stay open at such a low rpm will definitely hurt your times and mphs. I've studied the DE-K plots and I'd say a 5000-5200rpms switchover is ideal. Anything less and it will hurt you.
As for the turbulence caused by flip-flopping switchovers on shifts, I have a manual toggle switch to avoid just this issue. My switchover occurs at an indicated 5300rpms or so, but when I hit my 2-3 shift, I land just north of 5000rpms which causes the valves to flutter. At the track, once I hear the switchover occur in 2nd, I simply flip the switch to keep the butterflys open and I just leave the butterflys open the rest of the pass. I tend to get more consistent times and mphs this way.
Are you saying that on your last time out your butterflys stayed open above 3800rpms after the first switchover? If so, you will be faster and quicker you're next outing. Letting those butterflys stay open at such a low rpm will definitely hurt your times and mphs. I've studied the DE-K plots and I'd say a 5000-5200rpms switchover is ideal. Anything less and it will hurt you.
As for the turbulence caused by flip-flopping switchovers on shifts, I have a manual toggle switch to avoid just this issue. My switchover occurs at an indicated 5300rpms or so, but when I hit my 2-3 shift, I land just north of 5000rpms which causes the valves to flutter. At the track, once I hear the switchover occur in 2nd, I simply flip the switch to keep the butterflys open and I just leave the butterflys open the rest of the pass. I tend to get more consistent times and mphs this way.
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