Dave B

I tried doing my passenger side axle a few nights back and the axle spline is seized inside the wheel hub spline. I took a punch and 2lb sledge to it and even went as far as removing the brake disc and putting a gear puller on axle end. All the punch and puller did was dig into the axle punch divit. I hit the areas with a ton of penetrating oil too. I didn't want to go too crazy with the puller because I didn't want to pull the hub off the steering knuckle. I didn't want to hit the axle directly with a hammer because I didn't want to distort the threads, have the axle still remained seized and have to flatbed the car to the shop. The axle nut came off with no problems and the same goes for the support bearing bolts. And yes, I did remove the strut/steering knuckle bolts before doing this. Has anyone encountered this? I think my only option is to take it to a shop where they'll most likely have to press the axle out of the hub. That's what 8 salty winters and nearly 9 years of use will do an axle I guess.

A few months back when I attempted my driver's side axle, the axle nut decided to cross thread which meant I had to take it to a shop. My car's CV joints offically hate me

It's such a waste because I know how to do this and have the tools to do it There goes another $130 for a job I could have done.

mzmtg

iTrader: (11)

Bummer d00d.

I would have tried heating the center of the hub with a torch.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Dave. Probably too late but you could have tried screwing in the big nut back on the CV and hitting the nut with the big hammer. That way you don't screw up the axle threads. I always put some light grease on the splines when I put the axle though the hub assy.

Dave B

Yeah I tried putting the nut back on so it was almost flush with axle edge (not quite) and hit it with the normal hammer. I wasn't pounding on the nut with a ton of force, however I started noticing the nut was going to have trouble rethreaded if I hit it much more because the nut was getting slightly harder to tighten loosen and I didn't want to get to a point where I couldn't put everything back together. The shop manual suggests using a block of wood between the hammer and axle to try and push the axle out. I think my axle is to the point that the wood would just split with all the force I'd have to use.


Even if I could have somehow heated steering knuckle spline, I would have risked overheating the wheel bearings and grease.

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

I wonder if the axle actually "turned" inside the hub?? You do get to the track quite a bit Dave. And yes, those poor CVs have to something to get back at you.

meccanoble

iTrader: (22)

i would be pissed if i invested to get something fixed myself and ended up having to get someone to do the job. Happened to me on a couple of occassions...worst feeling...

Ant96GLE

iTrader: (4)

Thats what I was figuring, after all those miles and runs at the track, its very possible.

Broaner

iTrader: (10)

That was the first thing that I thought. How big are the teeth on the end of the axle? Is that possible?

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

Oh I donno. Maybe the teeth are about 1mm deep. I think it might happen. Unless it's all rusty in there.

I've never read or heard about it happening though.

Dave B

I doubt the axle actually spun in the spline because the hub and axle splines are a high grade hardened steel and the load is dispersed across 25+ splines, however I think it's quite possible that extensive drag racing may have attributed to this problem through wheel hop. I imagine the pounding, severe twisting, and 8 winters would be enough to mesh and rust the splines together quite nicely. I can look into the hub/axle spline area and can see the two meshing together normally. There is quite a bit of rust though. I sprayed quite a bit of penetrating oil into the area and used a dead blow hammer at a soft pace to try and work the oil in. What kills me is when I tried doing the driver's side axle, it was clear that the axle would have slide right out, but the damn axle nut cross threaded shortly after being broken loose. It's a comedy I tell ya.

What about seperating the tie rod and caliper so I have full range motion? I've never seperated a tie rod. Do I need a seperator? Any suggestions are helpful. The axle isn't clicking or making any other noises even after 3 months of being exposed to the elements. The joint still has a lot of grease in there too.

njmaxseltd

iTrader: (19)

Dave, put that nut on and set it flush with the end of the axel. Then get a thick metal plate (wood might split) and use that as a barrier. Next you'll need a bigger hammer A small sledge should do the trick. Give that sucker a really hard wack and the axel should break loose.

daveyg68

iTrader: (3)

Definitely don't heat it. You risk melting your wheel bearing seals and definitely damaging your wheel bearings themselves. If it were me and I just did mine on my 96, I would not pound on the nut. It will distort those threads mo matter how much you've screwed it on there. Get a heavy duty punch and use that to set in the indentation on the end of the axle w/ the axle nut on there just for precautions in case you miss hitting the punch. Use a 40oz + sledge or hammer and give it some good blows. I have a 48oz hammer for situations just like this. If this doesn't work, you may consider using an air hammer just as I described so you don't damage the threads. Use an air hammer attachment that would do the same thing as the punch.
Last resort, since you won't be reusing the axle, say screw the core charge that you're going to get back and go at the end of the axle with a battering ram. Probably cheaper than a tow and mechanic.

I doubt very much that the axle turned on the splines. There's no room for that and I've never ever heard of any car doing it. I could be wrong, but I would bet against it. Rust and corrosion is you most likely culprit and in pounding it to get it out, you just may be looking at replacing your wheel bearings as well.

daveyg68

z32drifter

^^^ I agree.... if you tow it to a shop....... they are just going to grab the airhammer and .....braaapppp....... pop the axle right out