my FIFTH and FINAL 3rd Gen
#1
my FIFTH and FINAL 3rd Gen
I'm finally back in a VE5spd. I don't have a lot of time (so why am I starting a thread?) but I wanted to show you guys some pictures. The car was listed in the classifieds last June, if you search "restoration" in the 'maximas for sale' section it will be one of the top results. There are a lot more pictures there. I will go more into detail about the car when I get back to my home computer..
#5
Holy crap! Very nice!
I guess I totally missed that sale. I typically check the Maximas for sale section just out of curiosity but evidently never saw that thread. Guess that was back in the summer when I was busy busy on my turbo project.
Well congrats! Nice to see a very clean VE 5 speed with an enthusiast
I guess I totally missed that sale. I typically check the Maximas for sale section just out of curiosity but evidently never saw that thread. Guess that was back in the summer when I was busy busy on my turbo project.
Well congrats! Nice to see a very clean VE 5 speed with an enthusiast
#9
Pretty incredible - http://kolarsky.smugmug.com/Cars/200...E-restoration/
Though I'm kind of surprised they seemed to overlook the rubber pieces that go between the bumper and the headlights/corner lights. And the rear is curiously saggy. Still amazing though.
Though I'm kind of surprised they seemed to overlook the rubber pieces that go between the bumper and the headlights/corner lights. And the rear is curiously saggy. Still amazing though.
#10
the car has 150k miles. the front and rear of the kit could be installed better but I have to decide whether or not I want to mess with it or just leave it the way it is.
the pictures of the car say a lot, but the 3-ring binder that came with the car says a lot more! It was maintained exclusively at a Nissan Dealership, and within the last 10,000 miles there is something like $20,000 in invoices (probably more, actually). If the car made the slightest squeak it was taken in to be fixed. I even found an invoice for $250 for replacing the digital clock. The paint job alone was somewhere around $4000
The entire power steering system has been replaced. The entire timing assembly (including both VTCs) was completely replaced 4,000 miles ago. Everything on the suspension except for the springs. The Exhaust is all new. The radiator has been replaced. I have records of everything done to the car since 1998 or so. It's very impressive
the pictures of the car say a lot, but the 3-ring binder that came with the car says a lot more! It was maintained exclusively at a Nissan Dealership, and within the last 10,000 miles there is something like $20,000 in invoices (probably more, actually). If the car made the slightest squeak it was taken in to be fixed. I even found an invoice for $250 for replacing the digital clock. The paint job alone was somewhere around $4000
The entire power steering system has been replaced. The entire timing assembly (including both VTCs) was completely replaced 4,000 miles ago. Everything on the suspension except for the springs. The Exhaust is all new. The radiator has been replaced. I have records of everything done to the car since 1998 or so. It's very impressive
#12
The car drove like a champ the entire way, I only had a small issue with the gauge cluster
about 90 miles into the trip back I stopped to check the tires and get air in them. After filling them up I got back in and started the car, and I noticed the battery light in the dash was on. I opened the hood and found that the battery terminals were both loose on the battery. Tightened them both down and got back on the road. However, the battery light was on the entire time, and it is still on. However, I shut the car off probably 10 times during the trip while refueling/stopping for food etc. and I never had a problem starting the car (battery seems fine to me). It also checked out fine voltage wise (12.7 at rest, 14.2 while running)
Also, once the battery light came on, the speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip meter, and the temp gauge failed to read anything. the only gauge in the cluster that is working was the fuel gauge.
After searching it seems to be the cluster itself, or the vehicle speed sensor (cruise control did not work either, even when the speedometer was working)
I'm also gonna go ahead and say the alternator is on its way out...
about 90 miles into the trip back I stopped to check the tires and get air in them. After filling them up I got back in and started the car, and I noticed the battery light in the dash was on. I opened the hood and found that the battery terminals were both loose on the battery. Tightened them both down and got back on the road. However, the battery light was on the entire time, and it is still on. However, I shut the car off probably 10 times during the trip while refueling/stopping for food etc. and I never had a problem starting the car (battery seems fine to me). It also checked out fine voltage wise (12.7 at rest, 14.2 while running)
Also, once the battery light came on, the speedometer, tachometer, odometer, trip meter, and the temp gauge failed to read anything. the only gauge in the cluster that is working was the fuel gauge.
After searching it seems to be the cluster itself, or the vehicle speed sensor (cruise control did not work either, even when the speedometer was working)
I'm also gonna go ahead and say the alternator is on its way out...
Last edited by DMad8724; 01-24-2014 at 06:36 AM.
#15
#17
I would say that whether you want to or not you probably should address the Stillen kit sooner rather than later. On the front, at least, it appears it's not lifted up high enough into that crease and I am fairly sure that within a year or two it will begin to slide down. Same thing happened to mine in the past when I didn't get it positioned high enough into the crease.
$3500 is indeed a steal
Have you checked into why the front is so much higher than the rear? Yours is actually sitting exactly how my black VE sits. I completely re-did the front suspension but haven't touched the rear yet, though I do have the new parts. I just assumed when I install all new on the rear that it will raise it up a bit. It's a bit weird yours is all new all around and still the saggy rear. Do you think perhaps they didn't replace the actual strut mounts? Seems like those tend to collapse on the rears.
You thought about going black floormats and seat belts, etc?
$3500 is indeed a steal
Have you checked into why the front is so much higher than the rear? Yours is actually sitting exactly how my black VE sits. I completely re-did the front suspension but haven't touched the rear yet, though I do have the new parts. I just assumed when I install all new on the rear that it will raise it up a bit. It's a bit weird yours is all new all around and still the saggy rear. Do you think perhaps they didn't replace the actual strut mounts? Seems like those tend to collapse on the rears.
You thought about going black floormats and seat belts, etc?
#18
I actually hadn't noticed exactly how the car sits yet but now that you bring it up ill have to check it out..I would like to lower it eventually if I can find some Eibach springs somewhere
I have a ton of plans for the interior, however the car having tan leather seats throws a wrench into all of them. My ideal interior has grey carpet and black leather seats and the grey overhead fabric, probably with black seat belts. However going with grey carpet now doesn't really go with the tan leather. The interior the way it sits would look a million times better with black carpet against the tan seats, but I don't have any black floor mats
So i Have to decide if I get rid of everything they've done to the interior in favor of what I want. or Leave at least the seats/door panels and try to incorporate a different color theme. The thing is I still have a set of NOS Tan 3rd Gen mats.
edit: also james when I was backing it out of the driveway in the above pictures, I did have some rubberish sounding creaking when the rear wheels reached the street, so what you're saying about the mounts if probably true..
I have a ton of plans for the interior, however the car having tan leather seats throws a wrench into all of them. My ideal interior has grey carpet and black leather seats and the grey overhead fabric, probably with black seat belts. However going with grey carpet now doesn't really go with the tan leather. The interior the way it sits would look a million times better with black carpet against the tan seats, but I don't have any black floor mats
So i Have to decide if I get rid of everything they've done to the interior in favor of what I want. or Leave at least the seats/door panels and try to incorporate a different color theme. The thing is I still have a set of NOS Tan 3rd Gen mats.
edit: also james when I was backing it out of the driveway in the above pictures, I did have some rubberish sounding creaking when the rear wheels reached the street, so what you're saying about the mounts if probably true..
Last edited by DMad8724; 01-31-2014 at 06:48 PM.
#21
That is in very nice condition, especially the mechanical stuff you talked about.
I am not a fan of the tan leather, but it IS leather and in good shape. Just take good care of it. I haven't seen my car around yet (guy that bought lives in the next town over, about 20 miles away) but I kind of hope I don't.
I am not a fan of the tan leather, but it IS leather and in good shape. Just take good care of it. I haven't seen my car around yet (guy that bought lives in the next town over, about 20 miles away) but I kind of hope I don't.
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5th Generation Maxima (2000-2003)
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