Looking for a fuel pump assembly/fuel tank
04-21-2013, 06:20 PM
#1
Looking for a fuel pump assembly/fuel tank
Since my old thread doesn't seem to be getting any attention anymore, I figured I ought to start a new one - as it is, this is an entirely different sort of request. I realize there is probably a want section but I've noticed from posting in the classifieds that there isn't a whole lotta traffic there. I'm kinda needing to find an option sooner rather than later.
Without further adieu, I am in need of a fuel tank and possibly a fuel pump assembly (bracket, pump, all of it. Mine is rusted to hell, but the pump still seems to be working.) Drained all the gas out of the tank, or as much as I could and she's shot to hell. 1990 Maxima SE, VG30E
Both are rusted to all hell and I'm debating whether to have the tank restored some how or getting a used tank from work through our parts network. Failing that, I figured I'd stop here first and see if anyone has a gas tank and maybe a fuel pump assembly laying around that aren't rusted, known to work and not terribly high priced. Seeing my options, if you will, before I commit to anything.
Anything else I should think about replacing too? Fuel pressure regulator? I ran the car with the fuse out and it died, but it did NOT clear the pressure from the line even after key cycling it. I had the same issue when I did the fuel filter. Other vehicles have never been an issue so I don't know what the deal is there but it screams clog somewhere, to me.
Without further adieu, I am in need of a fuel tank and possibly a fuel pump assembly (bracket, pump, all of it. Mine is rusted to hell, but the pump still seems to be working.) Drained all the gas out of the tank, or as much as I could and she's shot to hell. 1990 Maxima SE, VG30E
Both are rusted to all hell and I'm debating whether to have the tank restored some how or getting a used tank from work through our parts network. Failing that, I figured I'd stop here first and see if anyone has a gas tank and maybe a fuel pump assembly laying around that aren't rusted, known to work and not terribly high priced. Seeing my options, if you will, before I commit to anything.
Anything else I should think about replacing too? Fuel pressure regulator? I ran the car with the fuse out and it died, but it did NOT clear the pressure from the line even after key cycling it. I had the same issue when I did the fuel filter. Other vehicles have never been an issue so I don't know what the deal is there but it screams clog somewhere, to me.
04-21-2013, 09:01 PM
#2
It's better to visit your local boneyard for the fuel tank and pump assembly.
Try to manually apply vacuum to the FPR by disconnecting the vacuum line from the manifold and hook up a vacuum pump. With a pressure gauge hooked up between the fuel rail and filter out hose, assuming that the pump is good (it should be 43psi without vacuum), the fuel pressure should drop once you apply vacuum because it opens the FPR to return the fuel to the tank.
If you need an FPR, i have an almost new FPR (for VE) from beck arnley. I kinda used it because I thought my FPR was shot, turned out to be a deteriorated solder in the wiring in the fuel pump assembly. So I can't return it. PM me if interested.
Try to manually apply vacuum to the FPR by disconnecting the vacuum line from the manifold and hook up a vacuum pump. With a pressure gauge hooked up between the fuel rail and filter out hose, assuming that the pump is good (it should be 43psi without vacuum), the fuel pressure should drop once you apply vacuum because it opens the FPR to return the fuel to the tank.
If you need an FPR, i have an almost new FPR (for VE) from beck arnley. I kinda used it because I thought my FPR was shot, turned out to be a deteriorated solder in the wiring in the fuel pump assembly. So I can't return it. PM me if interested.
04-21-2013, 10:07 PM
#3
It's better to visit your local boneyard for the fuel tank and pump assembly.
Try to manually apply vacuum to the FPR by disconnecting the vacuum line from the manifold and hook up a vacuum pump. With a pressure gauge hooked up between the fuel rail and filter out hose, assuming that the pump is good (it should be 43psi without vacuum), the fuel pressure should drop once you apply vacuum because it opens the FPR to return the fuel to the tank.
If you need an FPR, i have an almost new FPR (for VE) from beck arnley. I kinda used it because I thought my FPR was shot, turned out to be a deteriorated solder in the wiring in the fuel pump assembly. So I can't return it. PM me if interested.
Try to manually apply vacuum to the FPR by disconnecting the vacuum line from the manifold and hook up a vacuum pump. With a pressure gauge hooked up between the fuel rail and filter out hose, assuming that the pump is good (it should be 43psi without vacuum), the fuel pressure should drop once you apply vacuum because it opens the FPR to return the fuel to the tank.
If you need an FPR, i have an almost new FPR (for VE) from beck arnley. I kinda used it because I thought my FPR was shot, turned out to be a deteriorated solder in the wiring in the fuel pump assembly. So I can't return it. PM me if interested.
I'm going to have our parts guy hit up our used parts distributor to get a set of injectors and the rail (anything else I should have them snag? Maybe injector wire harness? My injector connections are all corroded pretty bad) a gauge cluster and see about what a tank/pump assembly would run, and in the meantime, I'll see if I can't maybe sweet talk the service writer into calling up our radiator shop to see if they can boil and seal the tank, if that is cheaper than a new tank then that is what I will do.
As for the FPR, I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the tip. Do you think I could do this using my MityVac? Its not an electric driven, its the hand pump model with the gauge. Moreover, if mine is toast, (and I'll do some research myself) the VE FPR is the same as the VG, no? Technically I could have one of the techs probably do this all for me but I'd rather learn to do it myself!
04-22-2013, 12:33 AM
#4
Talk about your similar screen names..
Anyway, I've been out to the 'couve Pick N Pull 3 times in the past week, there's 4 third gens there. This is the NW, I don't understand where all of the rust talk is coming from. It rains a lot around here, but there's no salt or extreme weather to deteriorate the steel. Go to pick and pull and grab the tank and pump from one of them. Unfortunately they retired the one I mentioned in the classifieds, which sucks because it was nearly untouched and had low miles.
Anyway, I've been out to the 'couve Pick N Pull 3 times in the past week, there's 4 third gens there. This is the NW, I don't understand where all of the rust talk is coming from. It rains a lot around here, but there's no salt or extreme weather to deteriorate the steel. Go to pick and pull and grab the tank and pump from one of them. Unfortunately they retired the one I mentioned in the classifieds, which sucks because it was nearly untouched and had low miles.
04-22-2013, 01:05 AM
#5
Talk about your similar screen names..
Anyway, I've been out to the 'couve Pick N Pull 3 times in the past week, there's 4 third gens there. This is the NW, I don't understand where all of the rust talk is coming from. It rains a lot around here, but there's no salt or extreme weather to deteriorate the steel. Go to pick and pull and grab the tank and pump from one of them. Unfortunately they retired the one I mentioned in the classifieds, which sucks because it was nearly untouched and had low miles.
Anyway, I've been out to the 'couve Pick N Pull 3 times in the past week, there's 4 third gens there. This is the NW, I don't understand where all of the rust talk is coming from. It rains a lot around here, but there's no salt or extreme weather to deteriorate the steel. Go to pick and pull and grab the tank and pump from one of them. Unfortunately they retired the one I mentioned in the classifieds, which sucks because it was nearly untouched and had low miles.
I suppose I am a bit leery, more than i should be anyways. I was going to swing by there today but couldn't find it and didn't bring any tools with me anyways, spent most of the day monkeying with the instrument cluster, driving around and expermenting with it to see if I could narrow it to a speed sensor or the cluster itself, so far unsure. That, and the gas tank shenanigans. Now the car is getting mothballed until I sort out the gas tank matters. No more rusty **** shall be fed to the max.
I can get MOST of my parts thru our used parts network, but the little **** is stuff I can get here locally, just a matter of how much is my time worth vs the little bit of extra I pay to have the dealership order used stuff for me.
I am curious, I hear the pick-n-pulls here tend to be big on additional fees, entry fees, etc. I've been to one yard ever and it was a very simple affair and they loaned me tools. I suspect they usually pulled the part for people, given the low key nature of everything. I've never been to an actual u-pull-it type place like they have here in the PNW so I don't even know how the system works.
New concept to me. This coming weekend I think I'll try swinging by there again, see what they've got. I need an antenna and a pillar trim piece anyhow. Maybe their tanks will be in decent shape.
04-22-2013, 07:04 AM
#6
Does your fuel tank leak at all? If not then have you thought about restoring yourself? Otherwise your going to pay quite a bit for a Nissan fuel tank/sending unit. Just because the outside has corrosion doesn't mean you can't use it. Strip the outside, prime/paint it and spray with 3M Underseal Rubberized Undercoating.
04-22-2013, 09:32 AM
#7
Did you look into just getting a new fuel tank?
When I bought my blue VE (for only $200), it had the same issue - whole tank and fuel pump unit was rusty and looked like this (and this was after about 20 minutes of me scraping it thinking I could save it):
I just bought a brand new tank from Rock Auto. It was shockingly cheap. Something like $80 bucks or something.
The problem with most junkyard tanks is A) a lot of yards punch holes in the tank to drain them and B) a lot of yards manhandle the cars around with fork lifts and damage the **** out of the tanks and other underside parts and C) some yards won't even sell you the tank. I don't know if it's some law or what, but there are a number of yards in the Dallas area where literally the tanks are just not for sale period.
When I bought my blue VE (for only $200), it had the same issue - whole tank and fuel pump unit was rusty and looked like this (and this was after about 20 minutes of me scraping it thinking I could save it):
I just bought a brand new tank from Rock Auto. It was shockingly cheap. Something like $80 bucks or something.
The problem with most junkyard tanks is A) a lot of yards punch holes in the tank to drain them and B) a lot of yards manhandle the cars around with fork lifts and damage the **** out of the tanks and other underside parts and C) some yards won't even sell you the tank. I don't know if it's some law or what, but there are a number of yards in the Dallas area where literally the tanks are just not for sale period.
04-22-2013, 11:58 AM
#8
Did you look into just getting a new fuel tank?
When I bought my blue VE (for only $200), it had the same issue - whole tank and fuel pump unit was rusty and looked like this (and this was after about 20 minutes of me scraping it thinking I could save it):
I just bought a brand new tank from Rock Auto. It was shockingly cheap. Something like $80 bucks or something.
The problem with most junkyard tanks is A) a lot of yards punch holes in the tank to drain them and B) a lot of yards manhandle the cars around with fork lifts and damage the **** out of the tanks and other underside parts and C) some yards won't even sell you the tank. I don't know if it's some law or what, but there are a number of yards in the Dallas area where literally the tanks are just not for sale period.
When I bought my blue VE (for only $200), it had the same issue - whole tank and fuel pump unit was rusty and looked like this (and this was after about 20 minutes of me scraping it thinking I could save it):
I just bought a brand new tank from Rock Auto. It was shockingly cheap. Something like $80 bucks or something.
The problem with most junkyard tanks is A) a lot of yards punch holes in the tank to drain them and B) a lot of yards manhandle the cars around with fork lifts and damage the **** out of the tanks and other underside parts and C) some yards won't even sell you the tank. I don't know if it's some law or what, but there are a number of yards in the Dallas area where literally the tanks are just not for sale period.
04-22-2013, 01:50 PM
#10
James is right, they do poke holes in the fuel tank. I forgot that minor detail.
For some reason I was thinking you were talking about rust on the outside of the tank, I didn't know it sat for 6 years. Certain junkyard cars might have the same problem, but a lot of them just get in accidents or get towed and have been driven recently. There's a gray one at the yard that was in nice shape. But if there's a hole in the tank, that doesn't help you a lot. Self service yards are fun. You're free to go do whatever you want out there. It's good times, except when people WITH NO TOOLS come around asking you for a Philips screwdriver
If you go, then bring tools. They will not lend them to you, but they do sell them.
I am curious, I hear the pick-n-pulls here tend to be big on additional fees, entry fees, etc. I've been to one yard ever and it was a very simple affair and they loaned me tools. I suspect they usually pulled the part for people, given the low key nature of everything. I've never been to an actual u-pull-it type place like they have here in the PNW so I don't even know how the system works.
New concept to me. This coming weekend I think I'll try swinging by there again, see what they've got. I need an antenna and a pillar trim piece anyhow. Maybe their tanks will be in decent shape.
New concept to me. This coming weekend I think I'll try swinging by there again, see what they've got. I need an antenna and a pillar trim piece anyhow. Maybe their tanks will be in decent shape.
If you go, then bring tools. They will not lend them to you, but they do sell them.
Last edited by Hectic; 04-22-2013 at 01:59 PM. Reason: Bad joke
04-22-2013, 04:10 PM
#11
Did you look into just getting a new fuel tank?
When I bought my blue VE (for only $200), it had the same issue - whole tank and fuel pump unit was rusty and looked like this (and this was after about 20 minutes of me scraping it thinking I could save it):
I just bought a brand new tank from Rock Auto. It was shockingly cheap. Something like $80 bucks or something.
The problem with most junkyard tanks is A) a lot of yards punch holes in the tank to drain them and B) a lot of yards manhandle the cars around with fork lifts and damage the **** out of the tanks and other underside parts and C) some yards won't even sell you the tank. I don't know if it's some law or what, but there are a number of yards in the Dallas area where literally the tanks are just not for sale period.
When I bought my blue VE (for only $200), it had the same issue - whole tank and fuel pump unit was rusty and looked like this (and this was after about 20 minutes of me scraping it thinking I could save it):
I just bought a brand new tank from Rock Auto. It was shockingly cheap. Something like $80 bucks or something.
The problem with most junkyard tanks is A) a lot of yards punch holes in the tank to drain them and B) a lot of yards manhandle the cars around with fork lifts and damage the **** out of the tanks and other underside parts and C) some yards won't even sell you the tank. I don't know if it's some law or what, but there are a number of yards in the Dallas area where literally the tanks are just not for sale period.
How much was shipping though?
04-22-2013, 05:54 PM
#13
James is right, they do poke holes in the fuel tank. I forgot that minor detail.
For some reason I was thinking you were talking about rust on the outside of the tank, I didn't know it sat for 6 years. Certain junkyard cars might have the same problem, but a lot of them just get in accidents or get towed and have been driven recently. There's a gray one at the yard that was in nice shape. But if there's a hole in the tank, that doesn't help you a lot. Self service yards are fun. You're free to go do whatever you want out there. It's good times, except when people WITH NO TOOLS come around asking you for a Philips screwdriver
If you go, then bring tools. They will not lend them to you, but they do sell them.
For some reason I was thinking you were talking about rust on the outside of the tank, I didn't know it sat for 6 years. Certain junkyard cars might have the same problem, but a lot of them just get in accidents or get towed and have been driven recently. There's a gray one at the yard that was in nice shape. But if there's a hole in the tank, that doesn't help you a lot. Self service yards are fun. You're free to go do whatever you want out there. It's good times, except when people WITH NO TOOLS come around asking you for a Philips screwdriver
If you go, then bring tools. They will not lend them to you, but they do sell them.
I kinda figured as much. Its a neat idea actually, sure beats paying someone to pull a part I can easily get myself! I think now, knowing that, the daunting part is just knowing what I need to bring for a given part, say, the antenna or fuel tank straps or what have you. On the other hand, I don't have a floor jack readily available to pull a tank anyways. I can probably find one to borrow but last resort before buying new. I don't have a lot of accessible-at-home tools anymore, most of mine got stolen during the process of working on the maxima over the last year or so
As far as the talk about holes in the tanks, I can have a steel plate welded on or use JB weld or something I'm sure. I just don't want to end up with a tank nary better than my own!
I looked at a new one on rock auto and it is 171 + 20 bucks shipping. A bit steep, so I'm not really looking forward to going that route just yet.
04-22-2013, 11:15 PM
#14
As for the FPR, I'll give that a shot. Thanks for the tip. Do you think I could do this using my MityVac? Its not an electric driven, its the hand pump model with the gauge. Moreover, if mine is toast, (and I'll do some research myself) the VE FPR is the same as the VG, no? Technically I could have one of the techs probably do this all for me but I'd rather learn to do it myself!
No, VE FPR is different from a VG FPR
04-23-2013, 10:15 PM
#15
Darn on the FPR, but thanks for the offer though!
Good news though, my parts guy got back to me - I can get a used tank, including the entire fuel sending unit and pump assembly for 125 bucks, so I had him order it because shoot, thats a damn good deal for all three of those parts together, and the distributor said if its rusty or anything I can send it back no problem. Also, our parts guy said I might be able to upgrade my injector connectors - I guess Nissan did a recall on our cars for corroded injector connections and released an upgraded kit with better designed plugs on the harness side. He said he was unsure if they would fit because it didn't specify VG or VE, but the plug profile looks right. If so, the harness kits are really cheap so I was gonna upgrade while I'm in there since mine are all nasty. The yard should have my injectors out here by the end of the week too. If I'm lucky they'll all check out and the max will be back in business.
Heck yeah!
05-01-2013, 12:47 AM
#16
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Posts: 121
Quick question " has anyone just changed the pump itself(not the assembly) and if so is it easy? I know how to remove the assembly from the tank,but the prices are all over the place from 90-250! ive seen just the pump itself for bout 50-60 bucks....
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