A few quick questions
11-16-2011, 01:52 PM
#1
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A few quick questions
Hello everyone,
I have two questions about 3rd gens, since the search feature doesn't work as it should. Good 3rd gens have popped up on Craig's List from time to time for good prices, so I had thought about buying an SE 5-speed in the future. I also like the fact that they have independent rear suspension. I'm sure with a good set of springs/shocks or coilovers, they would be alot of fun to drive.
Question 1... Are there any years that 3rd gens DO NOT come with automatic shoulder belts? I had a car with those once, and they absolutely drove me insane. I much rather prefer the reach-and-grab seat belts.
Question 2... A friend has an earlier 3rd gen with the VG engine which gave him over 300,000 reliable miles before it popped a head gasket. I recently discovered that the later SE's came with the VE engine. So my question is, how reliable are the VE engines? I was reading on Edmunds.com and they gave that particular engine a significant problem rating. Here's a copy & paste from their website...
Once I saw that the CAS is around $500, I decided to create this thread and ask how reliable they are, and about how long they last before they go out. Edmunds says it's a "periodic" problem, so how periodic is it, and how reliable is the VTC sprockets that was also mentioned?
Thanks again everyone for taking the time to read my questions. I tried my best to keep them as short as possible.
I have two questions about 3rd gens, since the search feature doesn't work as it should. Good 3rd gens have popped up on Craig's List from time to time for good prices, so I had thought about buying an SE 5-speed in the future. I also like the fact that they have independent rear suspension. I'm sure with a good set of springs/shocks or coilovers, they would be alot of fun to drive.
Question 1... Are there any years that 3rd gens DO NOT come with automatic shoulder belts? I had a car with those once, and they absolutely drove me insane. I much rather prefer the reach-and-grab seat belts.
Question 2... A friend has an earlier 3rd gen with the VG engine which gave him over 300,000 reliable miles before it popped a head gasket. I recently discovered that the later SE's came with the VE engine. So my question is, how reliable are the VE engines? I was reading on Edmunds.com and they gave that particular engine a significant problem rating. Here's a copy & paste from their website...
An occasional problem on this vehicle is failure of the Engine Control (ECCS) Relay and the Variable Timing Control (VTC) Intake Camshaft Sprockets (VE30DE engine only), and a periodic problem is failure of the Crank Angle Sensor. Failure of the ECCS Relay or the Crank Angle Sensor will prevent the vehicle from starting.
The cost to repair the ECCS Relay is estimated at $30.00 for parts and $45.50 for labor.The cost to repair the VTC Intake Camshaft Sprockets is estimated at $30.80 each for parts (total of 2) and $390.00 (one bank) or $552.50 (both banks) for labor.The cost to repair the Crank Angle Sensor is estimated at $492.06 for parts and $52.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
The cost to repair the ECCS Relay is estimated at $30.00 for parts and $45.50 for labor.The cost to repair the VTC Intake Camshaft Sprockets is estimated at $30.80 each for parts (total of 2) and $390.00 (one bank) or $552.50 (both banks) for labor.The cost to repair the Crank Angle Sensor is estimated at $492.06 for parts and $52.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
Thanks again everyone for taking the time to read my questions. I tried my best to keep them as short as possible.
Last edited by T_Behr904; 11-16-2011 at 01:54 PM.
11-16-2011, 02:00 PM
#2
i always heard the VTC were problem prone on the 92-94 SEs (VE30DE).
VGs are the old (slow) and reliable (to an extent).
i THINK almost all came w/ the auto seat belts...the Canadian versions were spared of the auto belts i believe.
VGs are the old (slow) and reliable (to an extent).
i THINK almost all came w/ the auto seat belts...the Canadian versions were spared of the auto belts i believe.
11-16-2011, 04:07 PM
#3
Does a ticking noise make a car "unreliable" per se?
Looking back, the thinking that the VTC issue made the VE to be perceived as "unreliable" was overblown/overhyped IMO. Obviously, nobody wants to buy a new car to have it clacking within 30-60k miles, but that in and of itself didn't make it unreliable. You can ground the VTC's for free with scrap wiring to completely solve the noise issue.
Now, there have certainly been cases of prolonged ungrounded and/or unfixed VTC's causes the VTC cap to eventually fatigue and break causing severe damage but those are rare.
Other than the VTC "issue" the VE is incredibly reliable and a fantastic truly ahead of its time power plant. Early VG's had injector issues but for some reason those never got labeled as "unreliable"
Looking back, the thinking that the VTC issue made the VE to be perceived as "unreliable" was overblown/overhyped IMO. Obviously, nobody wants to buy a new car to have it clacking within 30-60k miles, but that in and of itself didn't make it unreliable. You can ground the VTC's for free with scrap wiring to completely solve the noise issue.
Now, there have certainly been cases of prolonged ungrounded and/or unfixed VTC's causes the VTC cap to eventually fatigue and break causing severe damage but those are rare.
Other than the VTC "issue" the VE is incredibly reliable and a fantastic truly ahead of its time power plant. Early VG's had injector issues but for some reason those never got labeled as "unreliable"
11-16-2011, 05:03 PM
#4
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Does a ticking noise make a car "unreliable" per se?
Looking back, the thinking that the VTC issue made the VE to be perceived as "unreliable" was overblown/overhyped IMO. Obviously, nobody wants to buy a new car to have it clacking within 30-60k miles, but that in and of itself didn't make it unreliable. You can ground the VTC's for free with scrap wiring to completely solve the noise issue.
Now, there have certainly been cases of prolonged ungrounded and/or unfixed VTC's causes the VTC cap to eventually fatigue and break causing severe damage but those are rare.
Other than the VTC "issue" the VE is incredibly reliable and a fantastic truly ahead of its time power plant. Early VG's had injector issues but for some reason those never got labeled as "unreliable"
Looking back, the thinking that the VTC issue made the VE to be perceived as "unreliable" was overblown/overhyped IMO. Obviously, nobody wants to buy a new car to have it clacking within 30-60k miles, but that in and of itself didn't make it unreliable. You can ground the VTC's for free with scrap wiring to completely solve the noise issue.
Now, there have certainly been cases of prolonged ungrounded and/or unfixed VTC's causes the VTC cap to eventually fatigue and break causing severe damage but those are rare.
Other than the VTC "issue" the VE is incredibly reliable and a fantastic truly ahead of its time power plant. Early VG's had injector issues but for some reason those never got labeled as "unreliable"
11-16-2011, 07:12 PM
#5
If you ground the VTCs, you will lose the ability to use the variable cams, essentially losing power in the upper band. I don't recall if anyone has done any dyno pulls with them grounded and with them working, but it's not a massive loss.
Also, if you don't do the labor yourself, finding a shop to do both banks of VTCs for $614.10 is a wild dream.
The instances of VTC failure seem to be somewhat rare. I have been active on this site for about 9 years and I can only recall reading about a handful of them. Most of those were cheap cars purchased by members here who swapped in engines.
VEs are a little more complicated, but generally very reliable. I think the biggest issue are the coil packs going bad ($60+ each x 6) and living with the VTCs. I don't think many people have had CAS issues. Fewer than have had coil pack issues.
Other things common are busted exhaust manifold bolts, filler neck rust and bad flex sections on the y-pipe (most common to just upgrade the y-pipe). Most other issues are normal old age fixes for any car.
Really, for a car getting on 20 years old, they seem to hold up pretty well.
My car has the VTCs clack, but it runs like crazy and has been reliable other than a bad clutch recently.
Also, if you don't do the labor yourself, finding a shop to do both banks of VTCs for $614.10 is a wild dream.
The instances of VTC failure seem to be somewhat rare. I have been active on this site for about 9 years and I can only recall reading about a handful of them. Most of those were cheap cars purchased by members here who swapped in engines.
VEs are a little more complicated, but generally very reliable. I think the biggest issue are the coil packs going bad ($60+ each x 6) and living with the VTCs. I don't think many people have had CAS issues. Fewer than have had coil pack issues.
Other things common are busted exhaust manifold bolts, filler neck rust and bad flex sections on the y-pipe (most common to just upgrade the y-pipe). Most other issues are normal old age fixes for any car.
Really, for a car getting on 20 years old, they seem to hold up pretty well.
My car has the VTCs clack, but it runs like crazy and has been reliable other than a bad clutch recently.
11-16-2011, 07:34 PM
#6
VG30E are solid engines, ive seen alot of VG30E get to high mileage with no work. the worst i had to do on mine was valvecover gaskets at 425,000km. at about 427,000km the crank started to sheetout, and at 429,000km the engine started knocking (cooked a bearing im guessing). but i drove that thing crazy until it died lol
if you dont want automatic seatbelts get a Canadian model, we dont have automatic seatbelts on vehicles
the only reason i would say avoid a GXE is the RF tranny was actually designed for 4 cylinder engines and with a torquey V6 like VG30E they tend to blow up early unless you drive like a old man. most GXE in junkyards are there from blown transmissions. i would get a 5spd SE or if you want automatic, get a 92-94 SE. the VE auto trannys were apparently good
if you dont want automatic seatbelts get a Canadian model, we dont have automatic seatbelts on vehicles
the only reason i would say avoid a GXE is the RF tranny was actually designed for 4 cylinder engines and with a torquey V6 like VG30E they tend to blow up early unless you drive like a old man. most GXE in junkyards are there from blown transmissions. i would get a 5spd SE or if you want automatic, get a 92-94 SE. the VE auto trannys were apparently good
11-16-2011, 07:34 PM
#7
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If you ground the VTCs, you will lose the ability to use the variable cams, essentially losing power in the upper band. I don't recall if anyone has done any dyno pulls with them grounded and with them working, but it's not a massive loss.
Also, if you don't do the labor yourself, finding a shop to do both banks of VTCs for $614.10 is a wild dream.
The instances of VTC failure seem to be somewhat rare. I have been active on this site for about 9 years and I can only recall reading about a handful of them. Most of those were cheap cars purchased by members here who swapped in engines.
VEs are a little more complicated, but generally very reliable. I think the biggest issue are the coil packs going bad ($60+ each x 6) and living with the VTCs. I don't think many people have had CAS issues. Fewer than have had coil pack issues.
Other things common are busted exhaust manifold bolts, filler neck rust and bad flex sections on the y-pipe (most common to just upgrade the y-pipe). Most other issues are normal old age fixes for any car.
Really, for a car getting on 20 years old, they seem to hold up pretty well.
My car has the VTCs clack, but it runs like crazy and has been reliable other than a bad clutch recently.
Also, if you don't do the labor yourself, finding a shop to do both banks of VTCs for $614.10 is a wild dream.
The instances of VTC failure seem to be somewhat rare. I have been active on this site for about 9 years and I can only recall reading about a handful of them. Most of those were cheap cars purchased by members here who swapped in engines.
VEs are a little more complicated, but generally very reliable. I think the biggest issue are the coil packs going bad ($60+ each x 6) and living with the VTCs. I don't think many people have had CAS issues. Fewer than have had coil pack issues.
Other things common are busted exhaust manifold bolts, filler neck rust and bad flex sections on the y-pipe (most common to just upgrade the y-pipe). Most other issues are normal old age fixes for any car.
Really, for a car getting on 20 years old, they seem to hold up pretty well.
My car has the VTCs clack, but it runs like crazy and has been reliable other than a bad clutch recently.
11-16-2011, 07:45 PM
#8
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VG30E are solid engines, ive seen alot of VG30E get to high mileage with no work. the worst i had to do on mine was valvecover gaskets at 425,000km. at about 427,000km the crank started to sheetout, and at 429,000km the engine started knocking (cooked a bearing im guessing). but i drove that thing crazy until it died lol
if you dont want automatic seatbelts get a Canadian model, we dont have automatic seatbelts on vehicles
the only reason i would say avoid a GXE is the RF tranny was actually designed for 4 cylinder engines and with a torquey V6 like VG30E they tend to blow up early unless you drive like a old man. most GXE in junkyards are there from blown transmissions. i would get a 5spd SE or if you want automatic, get a 92-94 SE. the VE auto trannys were apparently good
if you dont want automatic seatbelts get a Canadian model, we dont have automatic seatbelts on vehicles
the only reason i would say avoid a GXE is the RF tranny was actually designed for 4 cylinder engines and with a torquey V6 like VG30E they tend to blow up early unless you drive like a old man. most GXE in junkyards are there from blown transmissions. i would get a 5spd SE or if you want automatic, get a 92-94 SE. the VE auto trannys were apparently good
The U.S. is weird with what's metric, and what's not. You buy Coca-Cola in 1 or 2 liter bottles, but milk by the gallon. Trying to calculate Km to Mph in my head while driving wouldn't be fun. Anything over 5mph here in Florida can be speeding ticket time. That's not much of a margin of error.
11-16-2011, 07:45 PM
#9
No, no USDM 3rd gen was ever available without the auto seatbelts. Do you really hate them that much? I actually like mine, it prevents that saggy seatbelt syndrome that you eventually have to manually recoil them yourself so that you don't shut them in the door
I'm sure if you were so inclined you could swap in a Canadian set.
Cliffy, Matt actually dyno'd with the VTC's grounded and ungrounded and it was a 12hp difference. That's always kind of surprised me because it certainly isn't noticeable - and you'd think 12hp would at least be noticeable on the butt dyno but I couldn't ever really tell a difference.
I'm sure if you were so inclined you could swap in a Canadian set.
Cliffy, Matt actually dyno'd with the VTC's grounded and ungrounded and it was a 12hp difference. That's always kind of surprised me because it certainly isn't noticeable - and you'd think 12hp would at least be noticeable on the butt dyno but I couldn't ever really tell a difference.
11-16-2011, 07:58 PM
#11
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No, no USDM 3rd gen was ever available without the auto seatbelts. Do you really hate them that much? I actually like mine, it prevents that saggy seatbelt syndrome that you eventually have to manually recoil them yourself so that you don't shut them in the door
I'm sure if you were so inclined you could swap in a Canadian set.
Cliffy, Matt actually dyno'd with the VTC's grounded and ungrounded and it was a 12hp difference. That's always kind of surprised me because it certainly isn't noticeable - and you'd think 12hp would at least be noticeable on the butt dyno but I couldn't ever really tell a difference.
I'm sure if you were so inclined you could swap in a Canadian set.
Cliffy, Matt actually dyno'd with the VTC's grounded and ungrounded and it was a 12hp difference. That's always kind of surprised me because it certainly isn't noticeable - and you'd think 12hp would at least be noticeable on the butt dyno but I couldn't ever really tell a difference.
11-16-2011, 08:10 PM
#12
Originally Posted by James92SE
No, no USDM 3rd gen was ever available without the auto seatbelts. Do you really hate them that much? I actually like mine, it prevents that saggy seatbelt syndrome that you eventually have to manually recoil them yourself so that you don't shut them in the door
Originally Posted by T_Behr904
If it was stuck in the door open position, that would have been agrivating for sure, and one of those unnecessary repair expenses if it were equipped with manual belts.
11-16-2011, 08:29 PM
#13
yeah the travel is short on 3rd gen suspension so coilovers dont work, but people have made them lol
i did KYB GR2 struts with Ksport GT 2.2"F and 2.0"R drop springs and it worked fine everyone told me the struts would blow within months (and the struts were a couple years old before the drop) but that was August 2010 and even when the engine and tranny blew up last June nearly a year later, the struts were dead fine. a guy i know said he saw my 3rd gen at the junkyard (guess the guy that bought it from me for $100 sold it to the junkyard) and someone took my struts/springs so theyre still going on someone elses 3rd gen 
i wouldnt go that low on a 3rd gen if you drive it alot though, youre gonna scrape alot and im surprised i lasted through the winter lol
i did KYB GR2 struts with Ksport GT 2.2"F and 2.0"R drop springs and it worked fine
everyone told me the struts would blow within months (and the struts were a couple years old before the drop) but that was August 2010 and even when the engine and tranny blew up last June nearly a year later, the struts were dead fine. a guy i know said he saw my 3rd gen at the junkyard (guess the guy that bought it from me for $100 sold it to the junkyard) and someone took my struts/springs so theyre still going on someone elses 3rd gen i wouldnt go that low on a 3rd gen if you drive it alot though, youre gonna scrape alot and im surprised i lasted through the winter lol
11-16-2011, 08:29 PM
#14
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For as long I have been around this forum, the top 3 brands of shocks/struts available for this gen have been Eibach, KYB and Tokico. Unfortunately Eibach and Tokico no longer produce them so you would be stuck with KYB for the best suspension. Also, due to the design of the suspension, no coilovers can fit in this car without major modification.
My dad's pickup truck has that seatbelt recoil problem. I tend to forget to check the belt before closing the door and then find out that it can't reach due to it being caught on the door. One of the reasons why I like the auto belt.
Nissan provides a lifetime warranty on the automatic belt system. Not to worry about expenses when that unfortunate event were to happen. The seat belt hasnt produced any problems with my car considering it is now 23 years old. Knock on wood.
My dad's pickup truck has that seatbelt recoil problem. I tend to forget to check the belt before closing the door and then find out that it can't reach due to it being caught on the door. One of the reasons why I like the auto belt.
Nissan provides a lifetime warranty on the automatic belt system. Not to worry about expenses when that unfortunate event were to happen. The seat belt hasnt produced any problems with my car considering it is now 23 years old. Knock on wood.
http://www.andysautosport.com/nissan...er_systems/d2/
Glad to hear about the lifetime warranty on the auto belts. I might learn to live with them then knowing this
11-16-2011, 08:34 PM
#15
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yeah the travel is short on 3rd gen suspension so coilovers dont work, but people have made them lol
i did KYB GR2 struts with Ksport GT 2.2"F and 2.0"R drop springs and it worked fine everyone told me the struts would blow within months (and the struts were a couple years old before the drop) but that was August 2010 and even when the engine and tranny blew up last June nearly a year later, the struts were dead fine. a guy i know said he saw my 3rd gen at the junkyard (guess the guy that bought it from me for $100 sold it to the junkyard) and someone took my struts/springs so theyre still going on someone elses 3rd gen
i wouldnt go that low on a 3rd gen if you drive it alot though, youre gonna scrape alot and im surprised i lasted through the winter lol
i did KYB GR2 struts with Ksport GT 2.2"F and 2.0"R drop springs and it worked fine
everyone told me the struts would blow within months (and the struts were a couple years old before the drop) but that was August 2010 and even when the engine and tranny blew up last June nearly a year later, the struts were dead fine. a guy i know said he saw my 3rd gen at the junkyard (guess the guy that bought it from me for $100 sold it to the junkyard) and someone took my struts/springs so theyre still going on someone elses 3rd gen i wouldnt go that low on a 3rd gen if you drive it alot though, youre gonna scrape alot and im surprised i lasted through the winter lol
11-16-2011, 08:34 PM
#16
those coilovers have been discussed, they wont work. only a few people have made their own coilovers that actually worked
scraping shouldnt be too bad then, i had to take speedbumps at a crazy angle to not scrape, and winter with ruts in the snow was a nightmare
scraping shouldnt be too bad then, i had to take speedbumps at a crazy angle to not scrape, and winter with ruts in the snow was a nightmare
11-16-2011, 08:36 PM
#17
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Come to think of it, there are a few speedbumps around here that could pass for small mountains. I'll have to do the sideways creep approach with those.
11-16-2011, 08:54 PM
#18
You could call their bluff so to speak, order them, and then see what they say. But you can imagine how that will turn out considering the listed products just flat don't exist.
You can't even buy Tokico or Koni struts anymore. Unfortunately, if you were to get a 3rd gen you'd have virtually no aftermarket/performance suspension parts to buy.
11-16-2011, 09:01 PM
#19
yeah i dont think the company knows what theyre listing even, they have 89-95 too and 95 is the start of 4th gens
Tokico's and Koni's are like friggin pirates treasure now, last year i myself and my connections called all of North America and NOBODY had Koni's or Tokico's. we tried probably every place and the guy at Shox.com even tried his connections. even Ebay places that said 100% GUARANTEED IN-STOCK didnt have them and they were grumpy with giving me the money back
that was the worst part with having no time to grab stuff off of my 3rd gen, the springs, full exhaust, Ypipe, etc had to go with it. i only snagged off the Euro headlights and gave them away. 3rd gen aftermarket is pretty much dead now besides the mandrel exhaust, and even with that only me, James, and Cmax followed through with the group buy
Tokico's and Koni's are like friggin pirates treasure now, last year i myself and my connections called all of North America and NOBODY had Koni's or Tokico's. we tried probably every place and the guy at Shox.com even tried his connections. even Ebay places that said 100% GUARANTEED IN-STOCK didnt have them and they were grumpy with giving me the money back
that was the worst part with having no time to grab stuff off of my 3rd gen, the springs, full exhaust, Ypipe, etc had to go with it. i only snagged off the Euro headlights and gave them away. 3rd gen aftermarket is pretty much dead now besides the mandrel exhaust, and even with that only me, James, and Cmax followed through with the group buy
11-16-2011, 09:11 PM
#20
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Your guess is as good as ours. I personally think some company mistakenly listed them at some point, and all these other companies just copied the listings, yet none of them even actually have the products nor do they exist.
You can't even buy Tokico or Koni struts anymore. Unfortunately, if you were to get a 3rd gen you'd have virtually no aftermarket/performance suspension parts to buy.
You can't even buy Tokico or Koni struts anymore. Unfortunately, if you were to get a 3rd gen you'd have virtually no aftermarket/performance suspension parts to buy.
11-16-2011, 09:16 PM
#21
the guy that worked on my car that actually got me into becoming a mechanic (a guy on here's friend that knows literally EVERYTHING on imports lol) said that Monroe's wouldnt be too bad with the drop. if i had to do it again i would do KYB GR2 again though
best all-around springs if you dont want to go too low is Eibachs but theyre getting hard to find, about a year or two ago you could find them allover Ebay for 3rd gens but last time i looked there were none listed
best all-around springs if you dont want to go too low is Eibachs but theyre getting hard to find, about a year or two ago you could find them allover Ebay for 3rd gens but last time i looked there were none listed
11-16-2011, 09:21 PM
#22
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yeah i dont think the company knows what theyre listing even, they have 89-95 too and 95 is the start of 4th gens
Tokico's and Koni's are like friggin pirates treasure now, last year i myself and my connections called all of North America and NOBODY had Koni's or Tokico's. we tried probably every place and the guy at Shox.com even tried his connections. even Ebay places that said 100% GUARANTEED IN-STOCK didnt have them and they were grumpy with giving me the money back
that was the worst part with having no time to grab stuff off of my 3rd gen, the springs, full exhaust, Ypipe, etc had to go with it. i only snagged off the Euro headlights and gave them away. 3rd gen aftermarket is pretty much dead now besides the mandrel exhaust, and even with that only me, James, and Cmax followed through with the group buy
Tokico's and Koni's are like friggin pirates treasure now, last year i myself and my connections called all of North America and NOBODY had Koni's or Tokico's. we tried probably every place and the guy at Shox.com even tried his connections. even Ebay places that said 100% GUARANTEED IN-STOCK didnt have them and they were grumpy with giving me the money back
that was the worst part with having no time to grab stuff off of my 3rd gen, the springs, full exhaust, Ypipe, etc had to go with it. i only snagged off the Euro headlights and gave them away. 3rd gen aftermarket is pretty much dead now besides the mandrel exhaust, and even with that only me, James, and Cmax followed through with the group buy
If I do buy a 3rd gen, I don't plan on doing alot of mods. Perhaps some of the usual bolt on stuff, such as a Y-pipe, maybe a pop charger, and a few subtle and tasteful other things. If I do get a 3rd gen, are there any internal engine parts for the VG's or the VE's such as cams? And since the VG block was used for a long time up until a few years ago, do any of those internal engine parts work on the Maxima's VG, or is it just wishful thinking?
11-17-2011, 01:07 AM
#23
No luck finding struts from Japan, or the European market, or was it just too involved to search that deep? As far as exhaust goes, I did come across BRM's website, and they sell 3rd gen exhaust.
If I do buy a 3rd gen, I don't plan on doing alot of mods. Perhaps some of the usual bolt on stuff, such as a Y-pipe, maybe a pop charger, and a few subtle and tasteful other things. If I do get a 3rd gen, are there any internal engine parts for the VG's or the VE's such as cams? And since the VG block was used for a long time up until a few years ago, do any of those internal engine parts work on the Maxima's VG, or is it just wishful thinking?
If I do buy a 3rd gen, I don't plan on doing alot of mods. Perhaps some of the usual bolt on stuff, such as a Y-pipe, maybe a pop charger, and a few subtle and tasteful other things. If I do get a 3rd gen, are there any internal engine parts for the VG's or the VE's such as cams? And since the VG block was used for a long time up until a few years ago, do any of those internal engine parts work on the Maxima's VG, or is it just wishful thinking?
Don't forget to re-enforce the xmember (more info on Matt93se's cardomain pg). Oh and to answer your earlier question about the vtcs: the spring is what usually goes wrong inside the vtcs. There are rebuild kits. Ask Augustus where he got his.
Last edited by maximo018; 11-17-2011 at 01:10 AM.
11-17-2011, 08:41 AM
#24
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Well VE is like the early version of the VQ. Run on timing chain, dohc, variable timing. VG run on timing belt and sohc. VG torquey dwn low/ VE top end power. There are cams and pacesetter headers (even though ppl hate on pacesetter) for the VG. NWP spacers for VE. MES for cat back sys for both. ASP light weight udp & JWT ECU for both. Good example of all bolt ons is mine in my sig.
Don't forget to re-enforce the xmember (more info on Matt93se's cardomain pg). Oh and to answer your earlier question about the vtcs: the spring is what usually goes wrong inside the vtcs. There are rebuild kits. Ask Augustus where he got his.
Don't forget to re-enforce the xmember (more info on Matt93se's cardomain pg). Oh and to answer your earlier question about the vtcs: the spring is what usually goes wrong inside the vtcs. There are rebuild kits. Ask Augustus where he got his.
Have you dyno'd your engine, and/or drag raced it? I'm curious to know the numbers you're getting
Do you also have the JWT ECU as well? I was wondering why the VE with it's 4 valve heads, variable intake manifold and variable valve timing is only rated at 190 hp, and my De-K is rated at 222?
11-17-2011, 11:26 AM
#25
For what it's worth, several years back I dyno'd my VE 5 speed with bolt ons at 180 whp and 185 ft lbs tq. With just a few more mods (JWT ECU, NWP spacers, etc) that car would have been easily in the 190's whp/tq.
I never ran it at the track but the previous owner was running 14.8's with just a pop charger. VE's are definitely quick, they're just flat out heavier than 4th gens which is why you never really had a bunch of VE's running lowww 14's like some of these 4th gen guys, but VE's will still pull them up top and give 5th gens a good run for their money.
I never ran it at the track but the previous owner was running 14.8's with just a pop charger. VE's are definitely quick, they're just flat out heavier than 4th gens which is why you never really had a bunch of VE's running lowww 14's like some of these 4th gen guys, but VE's will still pull them up top and give 5th gens a good run for their money.
11-17-2011, 11:35 AM
#26
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For what it's worth, several years back I dyno'd my VE 5 speed with bolt ons at 180 whp and 185 ft lbs tq. With just a few more mods (JWT ECU, NWP spacers, etc) that car would have been easily in the 190's whp/tq.
I never ran it at the track but the previous owner was running 14.8's with just a pop charger. VE's are definitely quick, they're just flat out heavier than 4th gens which is why you never really had a bunch of VE's running lowww 14's like some of these 4th gen guys, but VE's will still pull them up top and give 5th gens a good run for their money.
I never ran it at the track but the previous owner was running 14.8's with just a pop charger. VE's are definitely quick, they're just flat out heavier than 4th gens which is why you never really had a bunch of VE's running lowww 14's like some of these 4th gen guys, but VE's will still pull them up top and give 5th gens a good run for their money.
11-17-2011, 11:42 AM
#27
The weight factor does explain why the 4th gens are so popular to mod. Having 100 or so pounds less off the nose of the car with the all aluminum VQ30 helps. A friend of mine as a 96 5th gen SE 5 speed, and I'm amazed at how quick it is. I feel like Nissan took a step back when they fitted it and the 5th gens with a rear beam axle.
11-17-2011, 12:06 PM
#28
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11-17-2011, 10:44 PM
#29
Good to know that there are still performance goodies out there for both of these engines. When I looked at your sig pic, I first thought it was a De-K engine since the UIM was black.
Have you dyno'd your engine, and/or drag raced it? I'm curious to know the numbers you're getting Do you also have the JWT ECU as well?
I was wondering why the VE with it's 4 valve heads, variable intake manifold and variable valve timing is only rated at 190 hp, and my De-K is rated at 222?
Have you dyno'd your engine, and/or drag raced it? I'm curious to know the numbers you're getting
Do you also have the JWT ECU as well? I was wondering why the VE with it's 4 valve heads, variable intake manifold and variable valve timing is only rated at 190 hp, and my De-K is rated at 222?
11-18-2011, 04:59 PM
#32
11-18-2011, 08:01 PM
#33
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11-18-2011, 08:10 PM
#34
ive seen one highly modded 3rd gen at the junkyard, had alot done to it. was a shame to see it there
i still want to know what happened to mine, because usually cars at the junkyard stay for a month or more and right when i heard mine just got there, i went and it was gone. hope nobody took the engine or tranny lol
i still want to know what happened to mine, because usually cars at the junkyard stay for a month or more and right when i heard mine just got there, i went and it was gone. hope nobody took the engine or tranny lol
11-19-2011, 08:35 AM
#36
I glanced through and found one peice to be missing about the discussion of the VG versus VE.
Something significant to keep in mind if you are not looking to do a lot of modding, is the transmission. The 5sp tranny in the VG had NO LSD. Even with little to no mods, I could spin the "tire" all day long. When I started modding my VG, it just got worse. Getting power to the ground was horrible.
Now, many of the VE 5sp transmissions had the LSD. Much better at getting the power to the ground. Now, you can put a VE 5sp into a VG Maxima, but you have to swap axles and hubs as well.
With everything else that has been said and along with the transmission aspect, I suggest a VE for what I understand you to be looking for. Already 30hp more than VG out of the box, make sure you get one with a LSD tranny, and there are some relatively inexpesive mods to further boost enjoyment of the car and engine without breaking your pocketbook.
Something significant to keep in mind if you are not looking to do a lot of modding, is the transmission. The 5sp tranny in the VG had NO LSD. Even with little to no mods, I could spin the "tire" all day long. When I started modding my VG, it just got worse. Getting power to the ground was horrible.
Now, many of the VE 5sp transmissions had the LSD. Much better at getting the power to the ground. Now, you can put a VE 5sp into a VG Maxima, but you have to swap axles and hubs as well.
With everything else that has been said and along with the transmission aspect, I suggest a VE for what I understand you to be looking for. Already 30hp more than VG out of the box, make sure you get one with a LSD tranny, and there are some relatively inexpesive mods to further boost enjoyment of the car and engine without breaking your pocketbook.
11-19-2011, 08:43 AM
#37
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I glanced through and found one peice to be missing about the discussion of the VG versus VE.
Something significant to keep in mind if you are not looking to do a lot of modding, is the transmission. The 5sp tranny in the VG had NO LSD. Even with little to no mods, I could spin the "tire" all day long. When I started modding my VG, it just got worse. Getting power to the ground was horrible.
Now, many of the VE 5sp transmissions had the LSD. Much better at getting the power to the ground. Now, you can put a VE 5sp into a VG Maxima, but you have to swap axles and hubs as well.
With everything else that has been said and along with the transmission aspect, I suggest a VE for what I understand you to be looking for. Already 30hp more than VG out of the box, make sure you get one with a LSD tranny, and there are some relatively inexpesive mods to further boost enjoyment of the car and engine without breaking your pocketbook.
Something significant to keep in mind if you are not looking to do a lot of modding, is the transmission. The 5sp tranny in the VG had NO LSD. Even with little to no mods, I could spin the "tire" all day long. When I started modding my VG, it just got worse. Getting power to the ground was horrible.
Now, many of the VE 5sp transmissions had the LSD. Much better at getting the power to the ground. Now, you can put a VE 5sp into a VG Maxima, but you have to swap axles and hubs as well.
With everything else that has been said and along with the transmission aspect, I suggest a VE for what I understand you to be looking for. Already 30hp more than VG out of the box, make sure you get one with a LSD tranny, and there are some relatively inexpesive mods to further boost enjoyment of the car and engine without breaking your pocketbook.
11-19-2011, 01:37 PM
#39
All VE's I've ever seen had LSD. Nissan did manufacture non-LSD VE 5's but I've never once seen one or even read about anybody actually owning one in 10+ years here. I'm guessing that Nissan made/sold so little of the non-LSD VE 5's that you almost never actually see/hear of them.
A "V" in the tranny code on the VIN plate on the firewall means it has LSD.
And, IIRC - aren't ALL VE autos LSD?
A "V" in the tranny code on the VIN plate on the firewall means it has LSD.
And, IIRC - aren't ALL VE autos LSD?
11-19-2011, 04:10 PM
#40
Thanks for the info Cliff. A friend of mine has a VG powered SE, so I'm trying to gather info on the VE's since I don't know much about them with the exception of doing some Google searching. Having info here on the Org from actual owners is of course, more informative. Hopefully someone will chime in on the seat belt question. I sure would like to know if there were 3rd gens that did not have the auto belts, or if doing a conventional 3-point belt swap mod is possible.
Like someone mentioned, all US 3rd gens have auto seatbelts. Actually, there was a law in the US mandating all cars (not trucks) in the US have auto seat belts or airbags by 1990. Most companies put in the auto seatbelts, so around 1988 to 1993 virtually every car had auto seatbelts and the new law was for all cars to have driver side airbags for MY 1994.
The Maxima in 1992 had airbag as an option, then it was standard for 1993+
Someone also mentioned the warranty. Beginning in 1989, Nissan offered a lifetime warranty on all seat belts. The warranty covers safety issues (so you can't go in if they are just dirty). Mine were frayed, so I went to the dealer and pitched a fit and they were replaced. The front seatbelts (both) are one unit, so they have to replace them together.