12.9 @ 106.9MPH ALL MOTOR 6th gen!!!
#82
I've been thinking about doing the panels and diffuser to reduce the drag on the undercarriage, but I was wondering if it might be just as effective to get a lip kit to minimize the amount of air passing under the car in the first place. With my coil-overs I could get a stillen lip pretty close to the ground. Also thinking about removing my spoiler for track days. Its gotta be a major source of drag right?
Last edited by bryan163; 12-06-2010 at 12:26 AM.
#83
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I've been thinking about doing the panels and diffuser to reduce the drag on the undercarriage, but I was wondering if it might be just as effective to get a lip kit to minimize the amount of air passing under the car in the first place. With my coil-overs I could get a stillen lip pretty close to the ground. Also thinking about removing my spoiler for track days. Its gotta be a major source of drag right?
#84
I might still do that too, but with the bumper support and spare tire well deleted, there's not much left to mount to. I picked up a transmission yesterday to try that phantom grip on, so thats def gonna be happening soon. Did u get a chance to run with the skinnys?
#87
I have to admit I was a bit dumbfounded when I read that a lightly modified NA 04 Maxima 6MT went 12.9s@106mph at KCIR. It makes a lot more sense now after reading what's been done to the car. 3,108lbs with driver? Wow! That car from the factory weighs around 3,450lbs. Assuming he's a typical 180lb guy, that means the car weighs in around 2,930lb without driver and atleast 520lbs less than stock. Impressive. I could never go to such extremes with my G35 (3,620lbs with me in it, nothing removed) this seriously makes me wonder "what if" You guys need to post up when you go back out to KCIR. I haven't ran out there in years.
#88
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I have to admit I was a bit dumbfounded when I read that a lightly modified NA 04 Maxima 6MT went 12.9s@106mph at KCIR. It makes a lot more sense now after reading what's been done to the car. 3,108lbs with driver? Wow! That car from the factory weighs around 3,450lbs. Assuming he's a typical 180lb guy, that means the car weighs in around 2,930lb without driver and atleast 520lbs less than stock. Impressive. I could never go to such extremes with my G35 (3,620lbs with me in it, nothing removed) this seriously makes me wonder "what if" You guys need to post up when you go back out to KCIR. I haven't ran out there in years.
Thanks man!
I'll probably be back at KCIR next season.
#89
I have to admit I was a bit dumbfounded when I read that a lightly modified NA 04 Maxima 6MT went 12.9s@106mph at KCIR. It makes a lot more sense now after reading what's been done to the car. 3,108lbs with driver? Wow! That car from the factory weighs around 3,450lbs. Assuming he's a typical 180lb guy, that means the car weighs in around 2,930lb without driver and atleast 520lbs less than stock. Impressive. I could never go to such extremes with my G35 (3,620lbs with me in it, nothing removed) this seriously makes me wonder "what if" You guys need to post up when you go back out to KCIR. I haven't ran out there in years.
#92
Nice times man! Saw this thread the other day and figured I would chime in. Weight reduction can be cheap speed, I can attest to this on my car with all the weight I've pulled out of it. Every 50 or so pounds less the brakes last longer on the road course and I can get more flat out laps in for every track session.
If you guys are thinking of building front and rear under trays I'm using this 1/8" thick UHMW plastic in 3' x 3' sheets. This stuff is cheaper than sheet aluminum and a hell of alot cheaper than carbon fiber. Its also decently lightweight, about the same as aluminum; its also somewhat flexable and very durable. The idea is to put a lightweight skeleton of brackets and mount from the front bumpers up until the oil pan, replacing all the stock black plastic pieces. On the back I would get a 8' wide sheet and it would cover up the spare tire well and the rear bumper gap. Ideally if the whole car had a flat bottom it would help alot to reduce drag, but it is impractical and would be a headache to build. I could use my WS SFCs as mounting points but its still a huge undertaking.
As far as rear aftermarket wings I would remove them for drag racing and leaving them on for road course stuff. A front splitter would help front downforce at higher speeds and could direct more air into the radiator area and under the car, again more of a road course thing but if your getting wheel spin at high speeds it can be helpful. A slight front lip stuck on with 3M tape isn't going to help much if at all, it is the length of the splitter that extends from the front bumper that makes it effective. I've seen people use 1/4" plywood or a long piece of skateboard planking held on with steel turnbuckles mounted to the frame and it works, just spray paint it black and people won't be able to tell its made of wood.
If you guys are thinking of building front and rear under trays I'm using this 1/8" thick UHMW plastic in 3' x 3' sheets. This stuff is cheaper than sheet aluminum and a hell of alot cheaper than carbon fiber. Its also decently lightweight, about the same as aluminum; its also somewhat flexable and very durable. The idea is to put a lightweight skeleton of brackets and mount from the front bumpers up until the oil pan, replacing all the stock black plastic pieces. On the back I would get a 8' wide sheet and it would cover up the spare tire well and the rear bumper gap. Ideally if the whole car had a flat bottom it would help alot to reduce drag, but it is impractical and would be a headache to build. I could use my WS SFCs as mounting points but its still a huge undertaking.
As far as rear aftermarket wings I would remove them for drag racing and leaving them on for road course stuff. A front splitter would help front downforce at higher speeds and could direct more air into the radiator area and under the car, again more of a road course thing but if your getting wheel spin at high speeds it can be helpful. A slight front lip stuck on with 3M tape isn't going to help much if at all, it is the length of the splitter that extends from the front bumper that makes it effective. I've seen people use 1/4" plywood or a long piece of skateboard planking held on with steel turnbuckles mounted to the frame and it works, just spray paint it black and people won't be able to tell its made of wood.
Last edited by 98SEBlackMax; 12-15-2010 at 12:14 AM.
#93
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The key is the use of single 3" piping and a straight through muffler.
Having a dual exhaust is unnecessary weight.
I know that most people like the look of a dual exhaust, but I want to go fast, not look good.
Nice times man! Saw this thread the other day and figured I would chime in. Weight reduction can be cheap speed, I can attest to this on my car with all the weight I've pulled out of it. Every 50 or so pounds less the brakes last longer on the road course and I can get more flat out laps in for every track session.
If you guys are thinking of building front and rear under trays I'm using this 1/8" thick UHMW plastic in 3' x 3' sheets. This stuff is cheaper than sheet aluminum and a hell of alot cheaper than carbon fiber. Its also decently lightweight, about the same as aluminum; its also somewhat flexable and very durable. The idea is to put a lightweight skeleton of brackets and mount from the front bumpers up until the oil pan, replacing all the stock black plastic pieces. On the back I would get a 8' wide sheet and it would cover up the spare tire well and the rear bumper gap. Ideally if the whole car had a flat bottom it would help alot to reduce drag, but it is impractical and would be a headache to build. I could use my WS SFCs as mounting points but its still a huge undertaking.
As far as rear aftermarket wings I would remove them for drag racing and leaving them on for road course stuff. A front splitter would help front downforce at higher speeds and could direct more air into the radiator area and under the car, again more of a road course thing but if your getting wheel spin at high speeds it can be helpful. A slight front lip stuck on with 3M tape isn't going to help much if at all, it is the length of the splitter that extends from the front bumper that makes it effective. I've seen people use 1/4" plywood or a long piece of skateboard planking held on with steel turnbuckles mounted to the frame and it works, just spray paint it black and people won't be able to tell its made of wood.
If you guys are thinking of building front and rear under trays I'm using this 1/8" thick UHMW plastic in 3' x 3' sheets. This stuff is cheaper than sheet aluminum and a hell of alot cheaper than carbon fiber. Its also decently lightweight, about the same as aluminum; its also somewhat flexable and very durable. The idea is to put a lightweight skeleton of brackets and mount from the front bumpers up until the oil pan, replacing all the stock black plastic pieces. On the back I would get a 8' wide sheet and it would cover up the spare tire well and the rear bumper gap. Ideally if the whole car had a flat bottom it would help alot to reduce drag, but it is impractical and would be a headache to build. I could use my WS SFCs as mounting points but its still a huge undertaking.
As far as rear aftermarket wings I would remove them for drag racing and leaving them on for road course stuff. A front splitter would help front downforce at higher speeds and could direct more air into the radiator area and under the car, again more of a road course thing but if your getting wheel spin at high speeds it can be helpful. A slight front lip stuck on with 3M tape isn't going to help much if at all, it is the length of the splitter that extends from the front bumper that makes it effective. I've seen people use 1/4" plywood or a long piece of skateboard planking held on with steel turnbuckles mounted to the frame and it works, just spray paint it black and people won't be able to tell its made of wood.
I'll think about using that plastic. If it's the same weight as aluminum, but cheaper, it should fit the bill nicely.
#94
Click: http://forums.maxima.org/7856374-post162.html
#95
That's what im always telling people when they ask me if I can convert their car to dual exhaust. Not to mention there's a higher ratio of internal surface friction to internal volume.
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The key to a proper single exhaust is a great merge collector.
I have the flowmaster 2-1 merge collector, which looks great.
Probably the only thing I would buy from flowmaster though. lol
#103
I'm probably going to get flamed or hated, but there are a couple of things that bother me.
I've had a 5.5 with no interior and completely gutted trunk and the car weighed in at 3165 with me in it at MIR for Maxus. I weigh 165 then so the car weighed approx 3000lbs on stock suspension. I had I/H/E and saw the best trap of 105 and put down 250whp back then. Judging by the amount of weight reduction you did, It probably weighed in the same territory. My 5.5 had no options other than it was 6spd no sunroof, no BOSE, leather, or any of that stuff.
JP made 282whp that day at Maxus, had traps in the 106 range, it was like 100deg that day. His car is a full bolt-on car plus extended rev and tuned with a SAFC.
Sparks03max has a 5.5 with very similar mods aside from being tuned on UTEC.
When I dynoed my 5.5 last year before i sold the car made 260whp on a DynoDynamics untuned, and later with utec I probably would've made more because I learned the car had retarded timing. I would've put down more but i had no pulley or lighter flywheel at that point.
What bothers me is your telling me you simply did some weight reductions maybe 100lbs more than the fastest 5.5 gen that made 280whp+ and saw similar trap speeds with a 6th gen? Granted you have slightly shorter gears, but things just simply dont add up here. JP has SSR comps on his hoosier drags and pretty much one of the best tire/wheel combo. The hoosier drags he has i believe is one of the lightest in its class in terms of weight, and those SSR's are very light for 16s.
I mean Aaron with cams and ported heads ran a 12.0 with a very light car. A buddy of mine with a 6th gen has full bolt-ons plus 120shot of nitrous on a 5spd transmission and only saw traps in the 108 range, which you pretty much passed with just a simple 3in exhaust?
I know my fair share of maximas, and things just simply don't add up. I don't mean to be a f*** d*** but this just looks all to easy. Had you hit a small 75shot your story is a little bit more believable. I know you have time slips, but my friends TE 5.5 auto bone stock ran a 13.4, and found out it was track error.
Either that or cars in your state are F**** moving, and I need to bring my boosted VQ down there and run.
I've had a 5.5 with no interior and completely gutted trunk and the car weighed in at 3165 with me in it at MIR for Maxus. I weigh 165 then so the car weighed approx 3000lbs on stock suspension. I had I/H/E and saw the best trap of 105 and put down 250whp back then. Judging by the amount of weight reduction you did, It probably weighed in the same territory. My 5.5 had no options other than it was 6spd no sunroof, no BOSE, leather, or any of that stuff.
JP made 282whp that day at Maxus, had traps in the 106 range, it was like 100deg that day. His car is a full bolt-on car plus extended rev and tuned with a SAFC.
Sparks03max has a 5.5 with very similar mods aside from being tuned on UTEC.
When I dynoed my 5.5 last year before i sold the car made 260whp on a DynoDynamics untuned, and later with utec I probably would've made more because I learned the car had retarded timing. I would've put down more but i had no pulley or lighter flywheel at that point.
What bothers me is your telling me you simply did some weight reductions maybe 100lbs more than the fastest 5.5 gen that made 280whp+ and saw similar trap speeds with a 6th gen? Granted you have slightly shorter gears, but things just simply dont add up here. JP has SSR comps on his hoosier drags and pretty much one of the best tire/wheel combo. The hoosier drags he has i believe is one of the lightest in its class in terms of weight, and those SSR's are very light for 16s.
I mean Aaron with cams and ported heads ran a 12.0 with a very light car. A buddy of mine with a 6th gen has full bolt-ons plus 120shot of nitrous on a 5spd transmission and only saw traps in the 108 range, which you pretty much passed with just a simple 3in exhaust?
I know my fair share of maximas, and things just simply don't add up. I don't mean to be a f*** d*** but this just looks all to easy. Had you hit a small 75shot your story is a little bit more believable. I know you have time slips, but my friends TE 5.5 auto bone stock ran a 13.4, and found out it was track error.
Either that or cars in your state are F**** moving, and I need to bring my boosted VQ down there and run.
#104
Extreme Weight reduction + Good Weather + Slicks=Good times. Look at his 60' and compare them to your runs and your friends and see if any of you pulled 1.8's. Many people go to the track during the summer and try to break records, its not going to happen. I was at Maxus the same day you were and was only trapping 101 and any other day when it was cool out I would trap 104-105. All of that play a big part in the times people run. I'm pretty sure you know most of that but I always hear people saying the same type of things your saying in your post without taking everything into consideration.
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Extreme Weight reduction + Good Weather + Slicks=Good times. Look at his 60' and compare them to your runs and your friends and see if any of you pulled 1.8's. Many people go to the track during the summer and try to break records, its not going to happen. I was at Maxus the same day you were and was only trapping 101 and any other day when it was cool out I would trap 104-105. All of that play a big part in the times people run. I'm pretty sure you know most of that but I always hear people saying the same type of things your saying in your post without taking everything into consideration.
If his best run was DA corrected (using dragtimes, extremely accurate), that first run would have been 12.74@109. Even JayPee on his PB day (the 12.58 day) only ran a 12.82@108 on a 1.9X '60 foot.
Just want to make a few other quick comparisons.
This was my slowest run of the night at the 1/8th mile earlier this year on around 1450DA.
Comparing that to his best run, my '60 foot was .03 slower, and my trap was .01 slower, yet he goes .11 faster in the 330 and .153 faster in the 1/8th.
If you want to say anything about driving skill, this is a video of that run... tell me I shift slow.
This was my best run, on a 1280ish DA.
Notice that I beat his best run by .116 on the '60 foot, and trapped nearly 1mph higher, but the 1/8th mile time is only .091 better. Normally '60 foot has a compound effect on ETs further down the track, as well as trap speeds having an indication on acceleration up to that point. With this in mind, the lead would be expected to have increased.
I also want to point out that some of his traps are a bit anomalous. On one run, he gains 21.75 mph in the last 1/8th, but on another, he gains 24.1. Most people have only tiny variances in their last 1/8th mile gains. The only time I have ever gained 24 mph in the last 1/8th was when spraying a 75 shot of nitrous. I normally gain more like 22-23mph in the last 1/8th when NA, same with JayPee.
(I'm #57 on the left) This is with nitrous
This is my best last 1/8th mile gains N/A thus far at the 1/4 mile, last year at rockingham. (I'm #77 on the left)
Now I'm not trying to say krazy6 is hiding spray or lying. I'm much more inclined to believe he's just going to a very fast track. Either downhill, "friendly" timing equipment or a major tailwind. With that kind of so/so DA and so/so '60 foots, there was definitely something making his times a good deal faster than would be expected. If AJ was correct and the DA was around 0 and his '60 foots were in the 1/8s, I would not even have a second thought at his times.
edit: Just wanted to add, the average DA at Maxus this year was in the 2000-2700 range (2700 at the hottest time of the day). While higher than 1700, it's not too much worse.
Last edited by sparks03max; 12-24-2010 at 12:21 PM.
#106
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I'm probably going to get flamed or hated, but there are a couple of things that bother me.
I've had a 5.5 with no interior and completely gutted trunk and the car weighed in at 3165 with me in it at MIR for Maxus. I weigh 165 then so the car weighed approx 3000lbs on stock suspension. I had I/H/E and saw the best trap of 105 and put down 250whp back then. Judging by the amount of weight reduction you did, It probably weighed in the same territory. My 5.5 had no options other than it was 6spd no sunroof, no BOSE, leather, or any of that stuff.
My car was right at 3000lbs with me in it. So again my trap speed makes sense. No offense, but I'm gonna guess that I'm shifting faster than you too.
JP made 282whp that day at Maxus, had traps in the 106 range, it was like 100deg that day. His car is a full bolt-on car plus extended rev and tuned with a SAFC.
Full weight car to my knowledge
Sparks03max has a 5.5 with very similar mods aside from being tuned on UTEC.
Full weight car to my knowledge
When I dynoed my 5.5 last year before i sold the car made 260whp on a DynoDynamics untuned, and later with utec I probably would've made more because I learned the car had retarded timing. I would've put down more but i had no pulley or lighter flywheel at that point.
What bothers me is your telling me you simply did some weight reductions maybe 100lbs more than the fastest 5.5 gen that made 280whp+ and saw similar trap speeds with a 6th gen? Granted you have slightly shorter gears, but things just simply dont add up here. JP has SSR comps on his hoosier drags and pretty much one of the best tire/wheel combo. The hoosier drags he has i believe is one of the lightest in its class in terms of weight, and those SSR's are very light for 16s.
My car is very light and I'm shifting the hell out of it. I have nothing to hide. Harold can vouch for my car. He went over it pretty thoroughly.
I mean Aaron with cams and ported heads ran a 12.0 with a very light car. A buddy of mine with a 6th gen has full bolt-ons plus 120shot of nitrous on a 5spd transmission and only saw traps in the 108 range, which you pretty much passed with just a simple 3in exhaust?
Aarons car is plagued by his launch. Auto 6th gens suck for any kind of track times. I bet your buddies 6th gen was full weight? Am I right?
I know my fair share of maximas, and things just simply don't add up. I don't mean to be a f*** d*** but this just looks all to easy. Had you hit a small 75shot your story is a little bit more believable. I know you have time slips, but my friends TE 5.5 auto bone stock ran a 13.4, and found out it was track error.
It was not a track error. I trapped 106-107 on every run. It was not easy, I have lots of little tricks that make the car go faster. Did you not see the tape on the rear of the car? That made a huge difference.
Either that or cars in your state are F**** moving, and I need to bring my boosted VQ down there and run.
I've had a 5.5 with no interior and completely gutted trunk and the car weighed in at 3165 with me in it at MIR for Maxus. I weigh 165 then so the car weighed approx 3000lbs on stock suspension. I had I/H/E and saw the best trap of 105 and put down 250whp back then. Judging by the amount of weight reduction you did, It probably weighed in the same territory. My 5.5 had no options other than it was 6spd no sunroof, no BOSE, leather, or any of that stuff.
My car was right at 3000lbs with me in it. So again my trap speed makes sense. No offense, but I'm gonna guess that I'm shifting faster than you too.
JP made 282whp that day at Maxus, had traps in the 106 range, it was like 100deg that day. His car is a full bolt-on car plus extended rev and tuned with a SAFC.
Full weight car to my knowledge
Sparks03max has a 5.5 with very similar mods aside from being tuned on UTEC.
Full weight car to my knowledge
When I dynoed my 5.5 last year before i sold the car made 260whp on a DynoDynamics untuned, and later with utec I probably would've made more because I learned the car had retarded timing. I would've put down more but i had no pulley or lighter flywheel at that point.
What bothers me is your telling me you simply did some weight reductions maybe 100lbs more than the fastest 5.5 gen that made 280whp+ and saw similar trap speeds with a 6th gen? Granted you have slightly shorter gears, but things just simply dont add up here. JP has SSR comps on his hoosier drags and pretty much one of the best tire/wheel combo. The hoosier drags he has i believe is one of the lightest in its class in terms of weight, and those SSR's are very light for 16s.
My car is very light and I'm shifting the hell out of it. I have nothing to hide. Harold can vouch for my car. He went over it pretty thoroughly.
I mean Aaron with cams and ported heads ran a 12.0 with a very light car. A buddy of mine with a 6th gen has full bolt-ons plus 120shot of nitrous on a 5spd transmission and only saw traps in the 108 range, which you pretty much passed with just a simple 3in exhaust?
Aarons car is plagued by his launch. Auto 6th gens suck for any kind of track times. I bet your buddies 6th gen was full weight? Am I right?
I know my fair share of maximas, and things just simply don't add up. I don't mean to be a f*** d*** but this just looks all to easy. Had you hit a small 75shot your story is a little bit more believable. I know you have time slips, but my friends TE 5.5 auto bone stock ran a 13.4, and found out it was track error.
It was not a track error. I trapped 106-107 on every run. It was not easy, I have lots of little tricks that make the car go faster. Did you not see the tape on the rear of the car? That made a huge difference.
Either that or cars in your state are F**** moving, and I need to bring my boosted VQ down there and run.
#107
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JayPee strips his car down something fierce for the track. You can ask him exactly how much.
I pull the passenger seat, back seat and some of the hardware, everything in the trunk.
And you have to remember, we start with a couple hundred pounds less than you in the first place.
You say Aaron's car is plagued by his launch, but he beats your '60 foots by a decent margin and as soon as it hits around 4000 RPMs, it's out.
I pull the passenger seat, back seat and some of the hardware, everything in the trunk.
And you have to remember, we start with a couple hundred pounds less than you in the first place.
You say Aaron's car is plagued by his launch, but he beats your '60 foots by a decent margin and as soon as it hits around 4000 RPMs, it's out.
Last edited by sparks03max; 12-24-2010 at 12:01 PM.
#109
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Like I said, I'm not implying you are hiding nitrous or lying. I am implying that your times are much faster than expected with only a so/so (close to bad) DA and mid 1.9 '60 foots.
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Came in at 3140 with me in the car last time I weighed. JayPee strips his car down more than I do and physically weighs 100 pounds less than I do (fat-***, here). I am very doubtful you have a weight advantage over him.
Like I said, I'm not implying you are hiding nitrous or lying. I am implying that your times are much faster than expected with only a so/so (close to bad) DA and mid 1.9 '60 foots.
Like I said, I'm not implying you are hiding nitrous or lying. I am implying that your times are much faster than expected with only a so/so (close to bad) DA and mid 1.9 '60 foots.
What we are debating is the trap speed. 60fts have very little effect on trap speed.
I also stated earlier that there was a slight tailwind.
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And what I'm trying to say with those 1/8th mile time comparisons is that you are likely running on a track with some slightly "friendly" timing equipment. This makes me curious how far away I am from KCIR
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edit: please don't assume that I think '60 foot has something to do with trap speed, we're both intelligent enough to know better...
Last edited by sparks03max; 12-24-2010 at 12:16 PM.
#114
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I'm just playing the devil's advocate a little bit in pointing out that your ETs are a bit faster than I would expect and your last 1/4 mile MPH gains on that last run you linked are nearly outrageous, at least compared to the runs I've singled out that are "similar". Again, my only real explanation is differences in timing equipment at the tracks we frequent.
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I'm just playing the devil's advocate a little bit in pointing out that your ETs are a bit faster than I would expect and your last 1/4 mile MPH gains on that last run you linked are nearly outrageous, at least compared to the runs I've singled out that are "similar". Again, my only real explanation is differences in timing equipment at the tracks we frequent.
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This car and your driving are definitely impressive and I'm not trying to take away from that. I'm very interested to see what it will do with a few more boltons + tune, better DA, and a 1.8X '60 foot... You're looking at beating JayPee's 12.5.
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That tailwind helps to explain it for sure. Every MPH worth of tailwind is 1 less of wind resistance... Basically a straight horsepower increase that compounds as speed increases.
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Next year, I'll be running in the import face off all motor sport class and see if I can make some money. lol From what guys say, a low 13 high 12 car is competitive. So I have a chance.
My plan is to fit some 5.5 gen brakes on the front so I can run some real slicks.
Yeah, I was excited when I got to the track and felt that the wind was gonna actually help this time. Some track days before I would have a headwind. That sucks.
#119
My car was right at 3000lbs with me in it. So again my trap speed makes sense. No offense, but I'm gonna guess that I'm shifting faster than you too.
It was not a track error. I trapped 106-107 on every run. It was not easy, I have lots of little tricks that make the car go faster. Did you not see the tape on the rear of the car? That made a huge difference.
It was not a track error. I trapped 106-107 on every run. It was not easy, I have lots of little tricks that make the car go faster. Did you not see the tape on the rear of the car? That made a huge difference.
Lol at shifting faster than me. You probably are dude but by how much? .00025 faster?
Your tape mod maybe did help, but i refuse to single it out to equal your trap speeds along with the other little things.
Had your car weighed 2600lbs I would've believed you.
Why don't you try going to a different track. I think that will definitely clear things up a bit. Because at this point I'm with sparks and going to say there is definitely some friendly track equipment used here.
#120
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Thread Starter
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Yorba Linda, CA
Posts: 1,565
Your car weighing 3000lbs with those trap speeds makes absolutely no sense actually if you take into consideration the mods you have. Again that's pretty much what my car weighed and I was trapping 105 on a hot day so I would've seen better. Which brings me to my point I had modified OBX headers and open exhaust right at the Y-pipe vs your only significant mod 3in exhaust.
Lol at shifting faster than me. You probably are dude but by how much? .00025 faster?
Your tape mod maybe did help, but i refuse to single it out to equal your trap speeds along with the other little things.
Had your car weighed 2600lbs I would've believed you.
Why don't you try going to a different track. I think that will definitely clear things up a bit. Because at this point I'm with sparks and going to say there is definitely some friendly track equipment used here.
Lol at shifting faster than me. You probably are dude but by how much? .00025 faster?
Your tape mod maybe did help, but i refuse to single it out to equal your trap speeds along with the other little things.
Had your car weighed 2600lbs I would've believed you.
Why don't you try going to a different track. I think that will definitely clear things up a bit. Because at this point I'm with sparks and going to say there is definitely some friendly track equipment used here.