Dave B

Today the conditions were great for racing and the track was hooking perfectly, even in the cold air. Temps were in the mid 40s, baro pressure at 30.20, humidity at 50%, and altitude at 1000'. The calculated density altitude for conditions was right around sea level. I've done absolutely nothing to my G since I raced it back in May. The only performance mod to my 03 G35 sedan automatic is a Z-pipe and the "Power Duct" intake cover removed. Both mods gain about 0hp, but they make the intake sound a hell of a lot better. Total mod. I had a 1/4 tank of gas and the spare removed. My previous best was a 14.49@97.59mph with a 2.21 60' in upper 60 degree weather (2100'+ DA).

Today my new best:

60' 2.156
330' 6.068
1/8 ET 9.264
1/8 MPH 76.80
1000' 12.012
1/4 ET 14.320
1/4 MPH 97.73

I also ran a 14.38@97.78mph, 14.42@98.01mph, 14.41@98.00, and a 14.41@97.21mph. Talk about one consistent car. I really wanted that 14.2, but it just wasn't going to happen. I hit a wall with the 14.3s. As you can see, conditions make all the difference.

Now it's time to add some power mods

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Sweet times.
Always good times from Dave B whether in the stock G or Max.

Congrats on the time, and also for proving an age old theory.

How were you launching, same method as last time?

Now for the million dollar question, what's in store for power mods?

SonicDust187

iTrader: (11)

I thought rwd cars were supposed to get 1.8 60' times on street tires or are those with dr or slicks?

Dave B

Thanks man. Same launch style again. Foot on brake, once the lights started to drop I mashed the gas (rpms get up to around 2300rpms), and then released the brake. Let the car shift the 1-2 itself and then manually shifted the 2-3 and held 3rd to the end.

5/16" plenum spacer ($160) which is good for about ~8-10whp from 4000rpms to redline. Then maybe the Borla true dual exhaust ($700) which is 30lb lighter than stock and is good for about 10whp and the TS ECU upgrade ($500, 10whp). I think 13.9-14.0s@99mph are possible.

Dave B

Maybe an LS1 F-Body on street tires with a one in a million launch

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

with conditions similar to today and the added mods I think cracking the 13.99 is very possible

congrats on a solid day at the track

Dave B

Thanks, man. Today was my last day ever at my track here in Kansas City because in January I'll be trasferring to Atlanta Unfortunately, I hear the Atlanta track is rather slow, so I might have to head out to that track in Bama near Birmingham.

Fr33way™

iTrader: (23)

That's too bad man, the track is notoriously slow...

Otherwise Atlanta is pretty cool...Pretty big G/Z scene too.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

dave great news ! i just started racing again over in NZ. but hey , no mods and you ran 14.32 !! terrific ! vq power !

I30tMikeD

iTrader: (8)

Nice runs dave

anthunny

seems bit quick for what it is, but congrads non the less

i notice youre on g35driver as well, and most auto sedans only run 14.6-7@95mph or so.

those 97 98mph traps seem pretty high.

i know what u mean by 3rd gear though. i raced my friend in mild mist(jus the intersection off the line was misty, the road ahead was dry) neways, he launched better than me even with RWD, cuz he left traction control on. we spun till middle of second or so before full traction, and he had 1.5cars on me, but by 90mph i was reeling in him very slowly, and 110mph when we let off, i had him by half car

i held my 3rd gear till redline, he DIDNT. and he just let it shift into 4th at around 80mph, instead of 100mph =)

ON VIDEO to, soon to be posted!

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

Huge difference since the G35 has a better IM, and at those speeds/RPMS, he would've got you had he massaged the right side of the tach, but street racing... I thought that forum was closed today

Dave B

Yep, the typical time for a stock or lightly modded G35 sedan auto is in the 14.7-14.8@94-95mph range. The problem is these guys don't take advantage of certain things like I do. I run a 1/4 tank of gas, let the car cool for 30-45 minutes before making a few back to back passes, shallow stage, try to run in good conditions, manual shift 2nd and hold 3rd. Little by little, all this makes a difference. On average, my trap speeds tend to closely match what the 6MTs get. But again, most of those guys aren't very good drivers and there are guys that have gotten 13.9-14.1@99-100mph out of stock 6MT sedans. It's rare, but it's happened.

My 14.3s at 97-98mph are above average, but there are two others guys that have done 14.2s@97mph in their 5AT sedans. A friend with his 03 G35 5AT sedan was at the track too and he was running 14.5s@97mph. The reason he was slower was because he weighs 100lbs more than me and he left his spare and sub in the back.

I'm getting the most enjoyment out of the fact that some of the idiots on G35driver think the 03 sedan was the weakest of the bunch because "they" say the 03 has a detuned ECU and a power robbing fan clutch instead of electric fans. My friend and I have had a good time proving those guys wrong because our cars and a couple other 03 5AT sedans (14.2s stock) are the quickest of the Org

Jeff92se

iTrader: (82)

GReat job Dave. Now remember to **** off all the idiots on G forum! You are truely making me jealous. I've been trying to find a G sedan for less than the asking price of Fort Knox over here. But G's are actually pretty scarce right now.

Blu

iTrader: (63)

Nice wouldn't headers be more beneficial with less noise and make more power? Guess its all preference but nice times for a basically stock G35.

Ceasars Chariot

iTrader: (16)

dave question on shallow stage, is this easing up and stopping as soon as second amber lights up when staging ? And deep stage is this, when the second light comes on, but you keep moving the car up a bit ? im wondering what are the advantages of these techniques (pros and cons) with regards to , reaction time, et, and mph.

i always sneak up to the line and stop as soon as i see the second light pop on.

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

Shallow stage is exactly what you described and it has 2 advantages: 6-8" more rollout and more consistant reaction times.

DandyMax

iTrader: (7)

Yah definitely try to shallow stage. Just barely get the light on and stop right there. Like JClaw said the advantage is that you get those extra few inches where the car's starting to move but the timers haven't started yet.

AsthmaMax11

iTrader: (3)

you'll probably run low 15's at commerce....

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

Good time dave.

I've tried deep staging 4 or 5 times and got really bad results with it. I knew it would affect my ET but I was curious to see how much, I lost about a full mph and full tenth of a second. I didn't think it would affect me that much but the few times I did it sucked, so I haven't bothered to try again. Every run I make I think there's a possibility of it being my best run ever, or at least best run of the day, so I'm hesitant to experiment with unproven techniques, or to "test" things just for the sake of testing them, when I know it's not going to be beneficial to me.

Dave B

Thanks! As for headers, I'm still not convinced headers do much for these cars. It seems like 7-8whp is the norm for Crawford/Nismo/Strup headers. IMO, that's not much power for the effort, cost, and potential warranty issues. The G/Z already come with tubular manifolds. They're not sexy, but they're not as bad as the cast iron logs they put on Maximas.

Dave B

That's why I'm going to Alabama to race

Dave B

I should mention that my best race was against a Dodge Magnum Hemi with an intake. He ran a 14.18@97.85 compared to my 14.32@97.73. I just couldn't match his launch. He got a 2.01 and I got a 2.15. The Hemi owns VQ35 from the start, but it's not so strong up top. With similiar reaction times (.2), he shot out to a 2 car lead and held it the whole way.

95maxrider

iTrader: (32)

Nice times Dave, your G is amost as quick/fast as you Max was! That last 100th of a second is a b1tch, huh?
Do you have any plans to dyno before/after mods?
How much do those Magnums weigh? You've got some 60 HP/90(?) TQ less and kept up very well....

Nismo87SE

Hey Dave do you think that using some lightweight 15in wheels with slicks/drag radials would improve your ET/trap? Anyway those are some killer times for your car.

AsthmaMax11

iTrader: (3)

Well I hope to join you when you do. Make sure you post in the southeast forum when you do move down here. We could have a sweet track meet. (you could even help me with my launch too!)

NmexMAX

iTrader: (22)

That's another quirk of RWD Vs. FWD, you don't have to worry about small wheels up front being able to clear large calipers/rotors up front ...well for the most part.

Dave B

It's both enjoyable and frustrating I spent so much time modding the Maxima with the MEVI/ECU/Y-pipe/muffler/DRs on light rims/no passenger seats/96 octane and then here's my G with a full interior and intake work, that's basically a noise maker, pulling times within .01....and better 60 foots I might add.

I really don't have any plans to dyno. These cars are pretty consistent on the dyno and the gains from mods are pretty consistent too.

The Magnum Hemi R/T (5AT) puts down about 270-280whp and weigh about 3900lbs. Judging from my ET/MPH, my G is probably putting down about 215-220whp with a curb weight of around 3,380lbs.


Back in May I did run with my Maxima's old DR setup of 225/50R15 BFG DRs with Millenia rims. The rims cleared the calipers by 1/8" and the overall tire height was about 2.5" shorter than stock which gave me an 8% increase gearing. Guess what? I was slower in ET/MPH. My G really never had traction problems to begin with so the traction of DRs didn't get put to use and the shorter tires forced a 4th gear shift 150' shorter of the finish line. I ran a two 14.5s@96mph. I decided the DRs weren't of much use for my car, so I sold them. I may consider a set of 26" tall DRs with Millenia rims if I start having traction problems after adding about 25whp/wtq with my planned mods.

anthunny

i think those 5.7litre hemis have ****ty gearing or something.

they weigh bit more than your counterpart v8s of the GS400 and 540ias. but have LOT more torque and bit more hp, and STILL run these patheic mid 14s on average 1/4 times?

it should be doing consistent 13.7-8s or something. not 14.3-14.5s

JClaw

iTrader: (17)

BFG has a 235/60/15 (26.1") size that would be perfect for your car. Mustang guys use them a lot.

Are you considering the 3.9 final drive ratio swap? On an auto it could only be helpful.

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

I don't think a 235-60 is going to go on a Millenia wheel though.

Dave B

Yeah, that would be the perfect size, but like Neal said it probably won't fit the 6.5" wide Millenia rim. I'd probably have to find a true drag 15" rim or go with 16" 300ZX rims.

No gear swaps for me mainly because I would loose all use of cruise control above 72mph. If anything, I'll consider a TC swap, but even that probably won't happen because the stock TC already has about a 2600-2800rpm stall.

Dave B

The Magnum Hemi at my track was getting 13.9-14.1@97-98mph. I wouldn't consider that bad at all for it's weight. The fractionally lighter Charger would probably have been pulling 13.7-13.9@100mph that day.

Dave B

I forgot to mention some other cars I saw out there:

06 Z06 with DRs and long tube headers: 11.2-11.3@127+mph

99 Subaru Impreza silver with a complete auto-x setup (use to be a company race car), heavily modded and stroked NA 2.5, manufactuer stickers everywhere, no side windows: Deadly consistent 13.8s@96mph

My friend's 94 Civic 4-door, teal metallic (aka "The Turtle"), completely stock appearing inside and out, 2600lbs, daily driven, built and stroked B18 to 2.0, huge turbo, 401whp, slicks: 10.80@129mph with a 1.7 60 foot

Nealoc187

iTrader: (23)

On a related note there was an SRT-8 magnum at the track last time I was there, running 13.1 @ 110ish. I actually raced one on the highway on the way back too, it was pretty fast.